Greenleaf Megacrop

[Biologist]

I read that gypsum is paradoxically less soluble at higher water temperatures so I remade my stock of MegaCrop with cold tap water. I didn't want to say something untrue about a product if it was me that was doing something wrong by using hot water the first time. This didn't pass the jar test either though. I made only a 25x stock (125g in a gallon of water), but there is still quite a bit of precipitate in the bottom of the jar. It may not be enough to bother some people but I'm uncomfortable not knowing how much calcium is in the solution and how much is in the precipitate. MegaCrop is already lower in calcium than what I'm used to even if it all went into solution. And I would have to filter this out before I felt safe using this with my injectors.

 

[Fitzera]

I'll admit I completely forgot about binders and slurrys. With those methods it is indeed possible to combine the necessary elements as a true 1-part. That being said they still have drawbacks as a result of those methods.

If Flora Nova is allowed to sit for too long without agitation it still forms precipitate. Pick up an old bottle, give it a shake and one can hear a rattling sound As for CNS17 it has to be administered in water at a specific temperature range or else the xanthan gum will congeal. I suppose that is better than straight up precipitate but I certainly don't think it is ideal.

Don't worry about the slides. I have no doubts that you were able to grow plants from start to finish with Foliage Pro, but as you stated it's not a perfect formula.

I think you misunderstand. I don't believe any of these nutrients are inherently "bad", but I do think there are better ways to do things such as Greenleaf separating calcium nitrate from their formula. Can people successfully grow healthy plants with Megacrop even if their reservoirs have a layer of precipitate? Absolutely. Is it ideal or optimum? Nope.

I dont believe cold will cause xanthan gum to congeal, but this is coming not from experience with nutrient solutions but rather water based drilling fluids which are based on xanthan gum as the viscosifier and clay (native clays, added bentonite). Drilling fluid tanks are not heated or insulated either, and work year round including -50°C (agitation and continued mixing prevent freezing, and heat eventually comes via frictions in the whole circulation system). PH does directly dictate the viscosity, a low PH doesnt allow the xanthan to shear properly (hydrate) and thus a low vis, while a high PH causes it to thicken quite a bit. Low PH in this case is 1-4, with high being 9+. 5-8 will act in a "normal" fashion. You can get the vis you want and then lower the PH as required while maintaining the vis you aimed for.

 

[justiceman]

I dont believe cold will cause xanthan gum to congeal, but this is coming not from experience with nutrient solutions but rather water based drilling fluids which are based on xanthan gum as the viscosifier and clay (native clays, added bentonite). Drilling fluid tanks are not heated or insulated either, and work year round including -50°C (agitation and continued mixing prevent freezing, and heat eventually comes via frictions in the whole circulation system). PH does directly dictate the viscosity, a low PH doesnt allow the xanthan to shear properly (hydrate) and thus a low vis, while a high PH causes it to thicken quite a bit. Low PH in this case is 1-4, with high being 9+. 5-8 will act in a "normal" fashion. You can get the vis you want and then lower the PH as required while maintaining the vis you aimed for.

Thank you for the insight on xantham gum. It's interesting to hear about those drilling fluid tanks. I believe the agitation is what keeps things homogeneous? Pretty cool stuff.

My experience with CNS 17 is that it can congeal but perhaps that is the wrong word. There may be other factors that relate its behavior with temperature. Botanicare has a statement concerning this as well.

Q: Why does CNS17 appear to be flaking and sinking to the bottom of my reservoir before it is thoroughly mixed?

A: When mixing CNS17 into water with a temperature below 68° F (20° C) what appears as a separation may seem to occur. CNS17 works best when mixed with water temperatures ranging between 68°F - 75°F (20°C - 24°C). A quick and easy way to adjust for low water temperatures in the reservoir is to mix the desired dose with an equal amount of warm water before introducing it into a reservoir that contains water under 68° F. Excessive calcium often found in municipal or well water sources may also bind with the phosphorous in CNS17 causing it to precipitate and fall out of solution. For best results use CNS17 with reverse osmosis water.

It's a bit finicky of a nutrient with water temperature and the need for low EC source water to avoid possible phosphorus fallout. If those requirements are fulfilled it certainly works though.

 

[Fitzera]

Thank you for the insight on xantham gum. It's interesting to hear about those drilling fluid tanks. I believe the agitation is what keeps things homogeneous? Pretty cool stuff.

Yes, each tank has an agitator (imagine like a fan blade in bottom of tank, moving fluid around), and also "guns" which run off a pump. So you can suck fluid from each tank and gun it back into said tank, or any other tank. There is also a skimmer in each tank, so you can skim fluid from the top of a tank and let it flow passively to the next (this is a step in the solids control (picked up solids from drilling. Sand, clay, etc) of the fluid.

So there are multiple ways to keep the fluid homogeneous, and keep different viscosity and weighted fluids seperated.

I think another cool thing with water based mud is how it's mostly based on industrial grade food product. Xanthan gum, potato starch, sulfamic acid, citric acid, guar gum, canola oil, etc.

 

[Legalcdn]

Megacrop changing formula 3-6 months..i read it on overgrow. People complained about the little white balls..its funny when i write that..

 

[BubbaBear]

Does anyone know what the tan powder that doesn't dissolve in Megacrop is? I inquired about it to Greenleaf but haven't heard back. I'd like to filter it out but I'm curious what it is I dont want to filter out anything beneficial. I'm assuming it's a talc used to help keep it from caking up but would like to know for sure.

And for the guys concerned about low sulfer in megacrop, use sulfuric acid as your PH down instead of phosphoric acid it works better anyway.

 

[BillFarthing]

Does anyone know what the tan powder that doesn't dissolve in Megacrop is? I inquired about it to Greenleaf but haven't heard back. I'd like to filter it out but I'm curious what it is I dont want to filter out anything beneficial. I'm assuming it's a talc used to help keep it from caking up but would like to know for sure.

And for the guys concerned about low sulfer in megacrop, use sulfuric acid as your PH down instead of phosphoric acid it works better anyway.

The tan powder could be silicone dioxide to prevent caking, it could be insolubles from molasses, lots of stuff it could be.



I like the ~30% sulfuric acid from the auto parts store for pH down. It's cheap.

 

[BubbaBear]

Megacrop changing formula 3-6 months..i read it on overgrow. People complained about the little white balls..its funny when i write that..

Fuck those little white balls. My plants have been looking off the last few weeks, lots of nitrogen and calcium deficiencies. I upped the dosage to 6 grams per gallon but they got tip burn and still had calcium and nitrogen deficiencies, so I looked it up and those little white balls are nitrogen and calcium. I tried to shake the bag before I used it but they pour out of the bag at a quicker rate than the powder so now that I'm down to the last quarter of my bag theres more powder than balls and my nutrient ratio is fucked up. Is anyone else experiencing this?

 

[asilsweater]

No issues with mc

No issues with mc

Used mc for last 2 yrs never had an issue. I dnt even ph and my whole med garden thrives. Check ur roots or ph ,cuz u got other issues going on besides mc. Be safe

 

[Legalcdn]

I changed to Jack's 5-12-26. You have to the CAL-NIT separately.. i grow in coco and the K in MC was a liitle high..

I reduced my MC to 3.5grm/gal and added epson salt..and CAL-NIT..and MC still comes out too leafy.. thus the switch to jacks.

 

[BubbaBear]

Used mc for last 2 yrs never had an issue. I dnt even ph and my whole med garden thrives. Check ur roots or ph ,cuz u got other issues going on besides mc. Be safe

Mega Crop is a good nutrient for the price but I wouldn't say its issue free, if it was they woudnt be making a new formula and now crushing the balls of cal-nit, they blew it by not doing that on the last formula, Im pretty positive its whats causing my issue. Id probably be better of if I scooped it out the bag instead of poured but the last thing I want to do is stick my hand in that stinky bag. I believe a lot of the odor is from a low quality humic acid, I order some cheap humic from kelp4less that had a similar smell.

Theres definitely room for improvement I also think they should get over having it be a all in one start to finish nutrient and make a seperate veg and bloom formula, it has no place in my garden past week two of flower becaue it has so much nitrogen.

 

[gmanwho]

Mega Crop is a good nutrient for the price but I wouldn't say its issue free, if it was they woudnt be making a new formula and now crushing the balls of cal-nit, they blew it by not doing that on the last formula, Im pretty positive its whats causing my issue. Id probably be better of if I scooped it out the bag instead of poured but the last thing I want to do is stick my hand in that stinky bag. I believe a lot of the odor is from a low quality humic acid, I order some cheap humic from kelp4less that had a similar smell.

Theres definitely room for improvement I also think they should get over having it be a all in one start to finish nutrient and make a seperate veg and bloom formula, it has no place in my garden past week two of flower becaue it has so much nitrogen.

........................................................................................................................

All valid points bubbabear!!

 

[BillFarthing]

Mega Crop is a good nutrient for the price but I wouldn't say its issue free, if it was they woudnt be making a new formula and now crushing the balls of cal-nit, they blew it by not doing that on the last formula, Im pretty positive its whats causing my issue. Id probably be better of if I scooped it out the bag instead of poured but the last thing I want to do is stick my hand in that stinky bag. I believe a lot of the odor is from a low quality humic acid, I order some cheap humic from kelp4less that had a similar smell.

Theres definitely room for improvement I also think they should get over having it be a all in one start to finish nutrient and make a seperate veg and bloom formula, it has no place in my garden past week two of flower becaue it has so much nitrogen.

It's still a balanced formula. The nitrogen sets the levels for everything else through flower.



I'll use it in soil or coco, but the insolubles from biofilm and crappy humic make it absolutely unsuitable for hydro.

 

[Rabbi]

Just finished reading the entire thread here. Just curious if it's still recommended to use the P/K boost in the current MC formula or not?

 

[Gazoo31]

According to greenleaf pk isnt needed. I vegged with it at 4g per gallon and my leaves were too dark, switched to maxi for flower. I'd be using a little mkp with it if i did flower with it maybe just .5g or so per gallon.

 

[Im'One]

I have used it for a couple of grows and switch to bigbloom for last feedings in flower, then rain water..lol
Then nothing.
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[Glaucksbacon]

Just saw Greenleaf is going to be releasing an A and B style in addition to the all in one we're used to, it's listed but not yet selling on their site. So many have been asking for it, nice they're listening.

 

[J-Icky]

I wish they would quit playing with the formula and since they keep insisting on changing it they need to label each one properly. I still have roughly 500 gm left but since they just use a generic label I’m not exactly sure what formula it is.

Also when I used it, in flower, after the 2nd full week of flower I’d drop it down to 3g/gal and use 1g/gal MKP, use that for 2 weeks and then switch the MKP for Potassium Sulfate at 1g/gal for 2 weeks, then I’d drop the MC to 2g/gal and PS would stay at 1g/gal for 2 weeks then plain water the last week.
Obviously this was a 9 week stein so for an 8 week I’d just cut the MKP down to one week.

 

[BillFarthing]

Also when I used it, in flower, after the 2nd full week of flower I’d drop it down to 3g/gal and use 1g/gal MKP, use that for 2 weeks and then switch the MKP for Potassium Sulfate at 1g/gal for 2 weeks, then I’d drop the MC to 2g/gal and PS would stay at 1g/gal for 2 weeks then plain water the last week.
Obviously this was a 9 week stein so for an 8 week I’d just cut the MKP down to one week.

Bloom boosters aren't needed if you have a balanced formula and proper pH.

 

[Im'One]

I admit im a dummy and a newbie etc...mega crop is easy for me. Yes i have to stick my hand ina stinky bag...yes i have to shake the water jug and let it sit so the balls dissolve. Big friggin deal. I use an ec meter to check my solution and sont go over 1500 ppm, and taper that back when in last two weeks of flower. Ever fourth or fifth watering i give cal mag. I use big bloom for the last nutrient when in flower then switch to rain for a flush...then im done until i cut them down. May not be perfect but it works for dummies. I cannot screw it up no matter how i try. And yes i grow my plants in soil.

If you do hydroponics i think you might want to buy something else.