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Greenleaf Megacrop

Grapefruitroop

Active member
Megacrop ppms.
NO3- 112
NH4+ 6.6
P 34
K 186
Mg 30
Ca 74
S 25
Fe .92
Zn 1.4
B 0.92
Mn 0.92
Cu 0.53
Mo 0.13

Nice....is that referred to which concentration?
I attached down the ones I found posted by other members...


I don't get the tomato feeding chart doh....
Do they share the same nutrients needs?
I was actually trying few days ago to find a general feeding chart for cannabis that show average ppm range of every single element , just to have a ruff idea...of course this would be relative to genetic, environment and style of growing....but I couldn't find anything else than nutrients brand feeding charts where they tells you the total amount of ppm that u will end up with their products....

I saw many vegetable crop feeding charts....lettuce, tomatoes, soy corn and they all differ from each other....I dunno....

Im under very bright LEDs and with RO water I need to supplement Ca, Mg and right under the light a little extra N.....I taught bout tap water but it smells like chloramine and where I live they laughed at me few times (believe it or not) when I asked the water company and the city to show me the analysis if the tap. They said to me that I have to specify the element that I want and they can't provide what in the rest of the world is called water analysis...hahahah but thats another story...

If you see a well balanced flowering formula that works for you....thats good...I had my plants at the maximum dark green with 5g of megacrop and I felt like thats enough......

Right now with alternate feeding of maxi bloom I still think I'm well packed with N so I can't imagine what would have happened with 6g of megacrop...ill run some experiment on the side on next run...

So for you is just ridiculous that someone could find exaggerate N level of Megacrop during flowering? I mean...I could be wrong but im running some heavy feeders in a sealed room, under LED, pumped with 1500 ppm ofCO2 and I couldn't imagine how a light feeder in a open system would react...like a Blue dream or some other sativa hybrids...

I also didn't try to trow shit on anything...just trying to understand and share experience , trying to learn....:tiphat:
 

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BillFarthing

Active member
Veteran
Im under very bright LEDs and with RO water I need to supplement Ca, Mg and right under the light a little extra N.....I taught bout tap water but it smells like chloramine

:tiphat:


I want everything dead in my res even if it includes chloramine. I don't want any variation from what I put in there. I try to have 2 ppm of hypochlorous acid in there all the time.



And yes, cannabis is just like determinant tomatoes as far as fertilizer requirements. The plants take out what they want from the nutrient solution. It's why the American style of growing force feeding plants with P is wasteful "bro science".

picture.php



Personally, I peak the EC in week 6 and taper all nutes off until harvest. Here is some stretchy Original Glue with the proper fertilizer ratio.


picture.php
 
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Megacrop ppms.
NO3- 112
NH4+ 6.6
P 34
K 186
Mg 30
Ca 74
S 25
Fe .92
Zn 1.4
B 0.92
Mn 0.92
Cu 0.53
Mo 0.13


University of Florida tomato formulation- 3rd to 5th flowering tomato cluster


N 120
P 50
K 150
Ca 150
Mg 50
S 60
Fe 2.8
Cu 0.2
Mn 0.8
Zn 0.3
B 0.7
Mo 0.05



If you are worried about CaMg, just use tap water and some phosphoric acid. I don't see any "EXTREME N". I see a balanced flowering formula.
I think the fact that megacrop is amino acid chelates has to to with the excess N issues. I’m in week 2 flower of 321 plus 1.1 ml of cal mag and I have to have higher ppm numbers or I see calcium deficiencies.
I ran megacrop at 850 ppm (700 scale) and my calcium numbers were around 50-60 (no supplementation of cal at all through flower). Now that I run jacks 321, the calcium levels are 95 ish ppm per gal and I’m seeing calcium deficiencies in flower. The cal mag I use bumps the number to 110ish compare to semi organic megacrop 50-60 ppm per gal cal number.I still have mc I use for veg and the same plants aren’t showing calcium deficiencies at all.
I run horticulture lighting group leds (quality leds and not that blurple shit) and I still supplement about 50 ppms of mag with epsom.
I have a hunch that the amino acid chelation of megacrop makes every nutrient very available despite the same ppm numbers as edta ,etc., salt fertilizers like Jacks.
My last flower run with mc was at about 3.4 grams per gallon (v2 formula) and I still got ecesss N (I was running a cookies cross; cookies are known to hold onto N).
If I ran higher ppms I would have gotten larf.
 

PetFlora

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Is MC clear when used in hydro?

Both Emerald Harvest and Hydro Research are, at least for veg, but V + B bloom additives turn dark (unless they changed them) when adding the PK boosters.

Maybe the dark color is just the nature of dry bloom nutes, but then I cannot see what, if anything, is going south in my rez, but most notably when doing DWC


Thanks
 

PetFlora

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Yeah I’m a member there. Supposedly his testing equipment was off. Megacrop in my Rez is NOT more ph stable than jacks lol. I’ll tell you that right now.
I think he redid the test.


Are you using air pump/stones? If yes, how big is your rez... how big is the pump, and where is it located, what is the ambient temp around it?
 
Are you using air pump/stones? If yes, how big is your rez... how big is the pump, and where is it located, what is the ambient temp around it?
Mc v2 is clear after awhile in the Rez. Don’t know about v3.
I have a pump in my 30 gal Rez the stirs the water about 5 min before lights on. It’s a 250 gph pump. It’s at the bottom. I have a cold basement at 55-65f ish.
Won’t be running mc anymore tho.
 

BillFarthing

Active member
Veteran
If I ran higher ppms I would have gotten larf.


Oh child, if you can't figure out how to make a 2-1-3 fertilizer work with a taper, you have some work to do. There's always Jack's Hydro or Jack's Oasis if you want a 1-part.



Is MC clear when used in hydro?


Color doesn't indicate anything in a nutrient solution.


Are you using air pump/stones? If yes, how big is your rez... how big is the pump, and where is it located, what is the ambient temp around it?


You are correct that it's user error controlling pH. You forgot to include source water alkalinity from tap water too.
 
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Biologist

Active member
Just a heads up that I have found you can't mix a 100x (2500 grams in 5 gallons water) solution with this stuff and use it in an injector, despite what the website says. Maybe other people have had success, but I have soft (79 ppm or so) water and got nothing but massive amounts of what I assume is gypsum precipitate at the bottom of the container. Tried very hot water, tried lots of stirring, and let sit overnight. I could not mix a 50x stock either. I mean there is a reason two-part solutions exist, you can't mix calcium and sulfates at high stock concentration. I guess I believed their spiel about how they have advanced technology that Jack's doesn't have that allows a one part to be made. Before I knew better, I got these same precipitates trying to mix a one part from Jack's 321, before I got two injectors. The Greenleaf customer service hasn't been much help and suggested-

"You can do either 2 options

1) use a circulation pump to keep everything circulated and run everything through the injector

2) Do not keep it circulated, and let the sulfur/gypsum sit at the bottom and scrape it out when changing. You only lose a bit of sulfur and gypsum which will not have negative effects."


Both seem like absurd solutions, and they saw these pics! I'm not running crystals through my injector seals and the concentration can't be right with all that calcium precipitate at the bottom of the bucket, nor do I believe their assertion that the precipitate will go back into solution when diluted into the water. My experiences with gypsum say once it is made it is extremely hard to put it back into solution. They so far won't give me a refund either. I'm disappointed because I liked the product otherwise, it has silica and chitosan that my Jacks doesn't have.

 

justiceman

Well-known member
Veteran
Just a heads up that I have found you can't mix a 100x (2500 grams in 5 gallons water) solution with this stuff and use it in an injector, despite what the website says. Maybe other people have had success, but I have soft (79 ppm or so) water and got nothing but massive amounts of what I assume is gypsum precipitate at the bottom of the container. Tried very hot water, tried lots of stirring, and let sit overnight. I could not mix a 50x stock either. I mean there is a reason two-part solutions exist, you can't mix calcium and sulfates at high stock concentration. I guess I believed their spiel about how they have advanced technology that Jack's doesn't have that allows a one part to be made. Before I knew better, I got these same precipitates trying to mix a one part from Jack's 321, before I got two injectors. The Greenleaf customer service hasn't been much help and suggested-

"You can do either 2 options

1) use a circulation pump to keep everything circulated and run everything through the injector

2) Do not keep it circulated, and let the sulfur/gypsum sit at the bottom and scrape it out when changing. You only lose a bit of sulfur and gypsum which will not have negative effects."


Both seem like absurd solutions, and they saw these pics! I'm not running crystals through my injector seals and the concentration can't be right with all that calcium precipitate at the bottom of the bucket, nor do I believe their assertion that the precipitate will go back into solution when diluted into the water. My experiences with gypsum say once it is made it is extremely hard to put it back into solution. They so far won't give me a refund either. I'm disappointed because I liked the product otherwise, it has silica and chitosan that my Jacks doesn't have.

[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=82215&pictureid=2005290&thumb=1]View Image[/url] [URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=82215&pictureid=2005291&thumb=1]View Image[/url]
You hit the nail on the head. This is the problem with any 1 part powder. The precipitate issue could easily be avoided if the calcium nitrate was in a separate container. I did not know this for the longest time and I've run into this problem when I was trying out the maxi series. I wondered why it wouldn't dissolve completely. 1 part powders still "work" even with precipitate but sometimes it leads to deficiency and it's not good for equipment and lines.

It's not possible to judge what the elemental ppm profile is because of an undetermined amount of calcium and sulfur drop out. The ability to know what you are putting in is the whole point of using hydroponic nutrients. Precipitate shouldn't be accepted as "something that just happens". It shouldn't happen at all period.

I like the NPK profile but I just don't think that 1 part powders in general are worth the slight increase in simplicity if precipitate is the result. I've been watching and waiting for separate parts eventually. If it happens then I will give mega crop a try for fun, but until then jacks, masterblend, or chem-gro is bullet proof.

I'm genuinely surprised that 1 part powders still even exist.
 

BillFarthing

Active member
Veteran
you can't mix a 100x (2500 grams in 5 gallons water) solution with this stuff and use it in an injector,



other people have had success, but I have soft (79 ppm or so) water


You're smart enough to use injectors, but not use RO water?



I'm genuinely surprised that 1 part powders still even exist.


This statement is silly. Try Jack's Oasis 16-4-17 and let me know when you learn how to use a 1-part powder.
 

justiceman

Well-known member
Veteran
This statement is silly. Try Jack's Oasis 16-4-17 and let me know when you learn how to use a 1-part powder.

:biggrin: I should have said

"I'm genuinely surprised that 1 part powders containing calcium and sulfates still even exist." Jacks Oasis doesn't have any sulfates so of course it works as a 1 part.
 

BillFarthing

Active member
Veteran
:biggrin: I should have said

"I'm genuinely surprised that 1 part powders containing calcium and sulfates still even exist." Jacks Oasis doesn't have any sulfates so of course it works as a 1 part.

You can use chelated iron sulfate or fulvic acid to get around some 1-part incompatibility.

I posted the recipe for SkunkwerksRX/Cogos Original at:
https://opensalts.wikidot.com/skunkwerksrx
A high quality fulvic or epsom foliar takes care of any further sulfur problems.
 

asilsweater

Active member
So many guys here trying to re invent the wheel, ive used mega crops one part in hydro and coco with great success. Ive ran sativas to indicas and all of them like the nutrients in mc! I did a side by side with a popular nutrient and mc kicked its ass. Ive used everyhing from gh in the 90s to AN in the mid 2000s ,and i can honestly tell you megacrop whoops theyre ass, and for less. All nutrient lines are good when used right but to achieve the same results as the high end nutes changed my mind and nothing i mean nothing ever became deficient with megacrop. Been doing this for almost 20 yrs and i think i might know a lil bit.
 

JJ Lowe

Active member
I had the same problem with injectors and the gunk in the concentrate. After mixing the concentration we filtered it through a 220 micron bubble bag removing what looked like sand or wet concrete. It worked great and the plants didn’t seem to mind either. It still gunks everything up though, just not as bad as it did before. we tear down the injector and clean it every other grow.
 

justiceman

Well-known member
Veteran
You can use chelated iron sulfate or fulvic acid to get around some 1-part incompatibility.

I posted the recipe for SkunkwerksRX/Cogos Original at:
https://opensalts.wikidot.com/skunkwerksrx
A high quality fulvic or epsom foliar takes care of any further sulfur problems.

That is some very nice work on mapping out the recipe. It is definitely a serviceable fertilizer but it is still missing sulfur and rightfully so because of the calcium nitrate. If it is necessary to obtain another product to make up for a missing element then I don't believe their "all in one" recipe can truly be called a 1-part.

That's probably why Skunkwerks also offers Pro Part A with Pro Part B. They separate calcium and sulfur between the two parts and thus are together truly complete.
 

BillFarthing

Active member
Veteran
That is some very nice work on mapping out the recipe. It is definitely a serviceable fertilizer but it is still missing sulfur and rightfully so because of the calcium nitrate. If it is necessary to obtain another product to make up for a missing element then I don't believe their "all in one" recipe can truly be called a 1-part.

That's probably why Skunkwerks also offers Pro Part A with Pro Part B. They separate calcium and sulfur between the two parts and thus are together truly complete.


Ferrous sulfate can be combined with EDTA, DPTA, and EDDHA for sufficient sulfur. At 330g. of soluble powder per liter, SkunkwerksRx or Cogos is completely dissolved in the single bottle. Dyna-Gro Foliage Pro and Dutchmaster One are 2 other examples of good 1-part base fertilizers.
 

justiceman

Well-known member
Veteran
Ferrous sulfate can be combined with EDTA, DPTA, and EDDHA for sufficient sulfur. At 330g. of soluble powder per liter, SkunkwerksRx or Cogos is completely dissolved in the single bottle. Dyna-Gro Foliage Pro and Dutchmaster One are 2 other examples of good 1-part base fertilizers.

If ferrous sulfate can be used in high enough concentration to not exceed iron levels but provide enough sulfur that would be interesting. Is this something that you do with success?

Yes the Skunkwerks RX recipe will dissolve in one bottle and that is because it does not contain magnesium sulfate in high enough concentrations to react with the calcium nitrate.

Here is Dyna-Grow Foliage Pro's elemental profile at 5ml per gallon for reference

N 156
P 23
K 87
Ca 35
Mg 9
S N/A

Dyna-Grow Foliage Pro does contain calcium nitrate and magnesium sulfate however they achieved that with an interesting work around. They increased the ratio of ammonium to nitrate thus reducing the usage of calcium nitrate in their recipe. Very little magnesium sulfate was used so it makes sense that calcium and sulfur are not in a high enough concentration to cause precipitate issues but that also means they are not in a high enough concentration for adequate growth either which makes Dyna-Grow Foliage Pro an incomplete 1-part.


Here is Dutch Master One's(Grow) elemental profile at 30ml per gallon for reference

N 84
P 26
K 209
Ca 67
Mg 34
S 4


Dutch Master One is much closer to a complete profile but once again they reduced sulfur to very low levels in order to avoid a precipitate issue with calcium. Might as well mention that they have you buy Grow and Flower(2 bottles) which makes its classification as a 1-part false.

Starting to notice a trend? Show me the elemental ppm profile of a 1-part that actually has calcium magnesium and sulfur all in high enough concentrations rendering the use of any additional products unnecessary(a true 1-part) and does not cause precipitate.
 

BillFarthing

Active member
Veteran
Used Foliage Pro start to finish back in the late 90's. I don't have a scanner, or I'd show you that you can indeed kill it with a 1-part without deficiencies.


Also, around 2000, Lynette Morgan developed CNS17 for Botanicare through her company Suntec NZ. Also a killer one-part that's still around today. I think they used Xanthan gum or modified lecithin as their binder. FloraNova uses clay slurry as their 1-part binder. I'd like to see the kids here tell Lawrence Brooks from GH his 1-part is bad. Lol.


Are they a perfect formula? No. Can it grow some KGB without deficiencies? Sure.
 
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justiceman

Well-known member
Veteran
Used Foliage Pro start to finish back in the late 90's. I don't have a scanner, or I'd show you that you can indeed kill it with a 1-part without deficiencies.


Also, around 2000, Lynette Morgan developed CNS17 for Botanicare through her company Suntec NZ. Also a killer one-part that's still around today. I think they used Xanthan gum or modified lecithin as their binder. FloraNova uses clay slurry as their 1-part binder. I'd like to see the kids here tell Lawrence Brooks from GH his 1-part is bad. Lol.


Are they a perfect formula? No. Can it grow some KGB without deficiencies? Sure.

I'll admit I completely forgot about binders and slurrys. With those methods it is indeed possible to combine the necessary elements as a true 1-part. That being said they still have drawbacks as a result of those methods.

If Flora Nova is allowed to sit for too long without agitation it still forms precipitate. Pick up an old bottle, give it a shake and one can hear a rattling sound :biggrin: As for CNS17 it has to be administered in water at a specific temperature range or else the xanthan gum will congeal. I suppose that is better than straight up precipitate but I certainly don't think it is ideal.

Don't worry about the slides. I have no doubts that you were able to grow plants from start to finish with Foliage Pro, but as you stated it's not a perfect formula.

I think you misunderstand. I don't believe any of these nutrients are inherently "bad", but I do think there are better ways to do things such as Greenleaf separating calcium nitrate from their formula. Can people successfully grow healthy plants with Megacrop even if their reservoirs have a layer of precipitate? Absolutely. Is it ideal or optimum? Nope.
 

Im'One

Active member
So many guys here trying to re invent the wheel, ive used mega crops one part in hydro and coco with great success. Ive ran sativas to indicas and all of them like the nutrients in mc! I did a side by side with a popular nutrient and mc kicked its ass. Ive used everyhing from gh in the 90s to AN in the mid 2000s ,and i can honestly tell you megacrop whoops theyre ass, and for less. All nutrient lines are good when used right but to achieve the same results as the high end nutes changed my mind and nothing i mean nothing ever became deficient with megacrop. Been doing this for almost 20 yrs and i think i might know a lil bit.
:dance013:
 
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