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Greenleaf Megacrop

gmanwho

Well-known member
Veteran
I had to switch back to Jacks I just could never get the same Bud size and density as I do with Jack's. Also I can never keep the reservoir clean it's always full of Gunk I'm guessing from the kelp




been running a little bleach in my reservoirs lately. every 5 or so days been adding 2-3 mills per gallon an let it sit overnight before the next watering. if i use beneficial's ,i wait a few days on that rez, then mix up a 5 gal of fresh non-chlorinated nutes an hand water in.


been bouncing back an forth between the megacrop an jacks 3/2/1. Consider adding in a mpk and a trace micro blend to the flower base nutes.
 

pasha.h

New member
Hello, everybody. I have a big problem with ph when using megacrop. The base ph of my water is about 6. When I mix the fertilizer through the day ph grows to 7 / 7.3 ! When I reduce it to 5.5 after a day it grows back to 7! Only after a few days of corrections I get a more or less stable solution. I have several large dwc systems and I spend A LOT of ph down during my work. I want to make it clear that this happens even with very small plants, which allows me to conclude that the problem is not that some component is eaten by the plant.
So after two cycles I'm looking for another fertilizer company.
 

pasha.h

New member
I had to switch back to Jacks I just could never get the same Bud size and density as I do with Jack's. Also I can never keep the reservoir clean it's always full of Gunk I'm guessing from the kelp

Sound strange coz I see in jacks nothing but a standard set of microelements. So all that silicates, kelp extract,amino acids ,enzymes and so on in nutrients are just hype?

The only thing in jacks interesting for me - the set for tap water, where they promise to keep the ph down.
 

p0opstlnksal0t

Active member
been running a little bleach in my reservoirs lately. every 5 or so days been adding 2-3 mills per gallon an let it sit overnight before the next watering. if i use beneficial's ,i wait a few days on that rez, then mix up a 5 gal of fresh non-chlorinated nutes an hand water in.


been bouncing back an forth between the megacrop an jacks 3/2/1. Consider adding in a mpk and a trace micro blend to the flower base nutes.

My best quality and yields to date are plain old jacks 321 only. I add a low ppm of pool shock. Keeps things sterile. The MC adding bleach doesn't help. The kelp and stuff is not water soluble so it just gunk's everything up.
 

BillFarthing

Active member
Veteran
been bouncing back an forth between the megacrop an jacks 3/2/1. Consider adding in a mpk and a trace micro blend to the flower base nutes.


Megacrop seems great as-is for non-sterile soil and coco DTW. I wouldn't touch the formula with a bloom booster or micro and risk locking out something like magnesium.



I am also using Front Row Ag and Jacks with hypochlorous acid. I get a lot less stretch with these 2 brands and the quality is about the same. The trade off is the ability to use it in straight hydro and having to mix more than 1 part/powder.
 

skeptik

New member
Became hooked on Megacrop last year and haven't looked back. Simple to use and amazing results.



That said, I've a self-inflicted problem I'd appreciate some advice on. I won a 2.5 Kg bag of MC 1.0 last year in a drawing and repackaged in 1 qt mason jars. My problem stems from the last jar being opened and closed enough that the MC has hardened into a brick inside the jar and is sufficiently hard that it can't be broken up, even with an ice pick.


What to do? It would be trivial enough to simply dissolve it out with hot water, but then what? A quart of the powder is enough to last me an entire year, so I suspect keeping it in jars, even in the fridge, for that length of time would precipitate mold growth.


My current thought is to make a couple gallons of strong stock solution in mason pint jars, then can them in a pressure cooker. That should keep for several years, at least.


Thoughts? Suggestions?



TIA.
 

hush

Señor Member
Veteran
Became hooked on Megacrop last year and haven't looked back. Simple to use and amazing results.



That said, I've a self-inflicted problem I'd appreciate some advice on. I won a 2.5 Kg bag of MC 1.0 last year in a drawing and repackaged in 1 qt mason jars. My problem stems from the last jar being opened and closed enough that the MC has hardened into a brick inside the jar and is sufficiently hard that it can't be broken up, even with an ice pick.


What to do? It would be trivial enough to simply dissolve it out with hot water, but then what? A quart of the powder is enough to last me an entire year, so I suspect keeping it in jars, even in the fridge, for that length of time would precipitate mold growth.


My current thought is to make a couple gallons of strong stock solution in mason pint jars, then can them in a pressure cooker. That should keep for several years, at least.


Thoughts? Suggestions?



TIA.

Sounds to me like you live in a humid environment and all of that opening of the jar was letting ambient humidity in. That used to happen to me, in my bag of Maxibloom, when I lived in Florida. Simple fix: put it in a bag with a desiccant and let it suck the moisture out.

I ended up learning that I could avoid that by emptying my entire bag of Maxibloom into a mason jar upon opening it, and then just affixing a desiccant to the lid of the jar.
 

skeptik

New member
Went the pressure cooker route. The 1 qt of MC ended up completely dissolving in 2.5 qts of hot H2O, so ended up with 6 pints of sterile, concentrated stock solution. Simple enough to calc approximately how much to add, then tune it more precisely with my PPM meter.
 

BillFarthing

Active member
Veteran
Went the pressure cooker route. The 1 qt of MC ended up completely dissolving in 2.5 qts of hot H2O, so ended up with 6 pints of sterile, concentrated stock solution. Simple enough to calc approximately how much to add, then tune it more precisely with my PPM meter.


100-300 mg of sodium benzoate per final liter of stock solution. :peacock:
 
Hello, everybody. I have a big problem with ph when using megacrop. The base ph of my water is about 6. When I mix the fertilizer through the day ph grows to 7 / 7.3 ! When I reduce it to 5.5 after a day it grows back to 7! Only after a few days of corrections I get a more or less stable solution. I have several large dwc systems and I spend A LOT of ph down during my work. I want to make it clear that this happens even with very small plants, which allows me to conclude that the problem is not that some component is eaten by the plant.
So after two cycles I'm looking for another fertilizer company.
I had this same problem with Megacrop.
Too much nitrogen in megacrop makes my strains green up, leafier, and branchier in flower. I’ve switched to a modified jacks 321. Ph is solid stable.
I chatted with other growers who rsn mc aa well and we came to the conclusion that the organics in megacrop are the most likely culprit for the ph swing up.
 

BillFarthing

Active member
Veteran
I chatted with other growers who rsn mc aa well and we came to the conclusion that the organics in megacrop are the most likely culprit for the ph swing up.


The NO3- and NH4+ ratio on MC is good. pH drift is a thing even with targeted hydroponic recipes.



Are you using an air pump to mix your fertilizer? Tap water with carbonates/high alkalinity? How long are you waiting before using it? All these things can make pH drift up.
 
The NO3- and NH4+ ratio on MC is good. pH drift is a thing even with targeted hydroponic recipes.



Are you using an air pump to mix your fertilizer? Tap water with carbonates/high alkalinity? How long are you waiting before using it? All these things can make pH drift up.
I had a pump that would stir the mixture a few minutes before another pump fed the plants.
My normal tap water is around 7 ph. I tried toph a Rez with only tap water to 5.8. The next day the ph was 6.5ish.
I recently started jacks and there’s still drift but it takes 2-3 days to move up one point on ph (5.8 to 5.9 in 2-3 days). There’s no need for a pump to stir with jacks since nothing seems to fall out of the mix compared to mega. I ran mega for about 2 years. Regardless of the ph drift, the N in mega is too much in flower when I grow in coco imho.I can modify the 321 ratio to have less N and still have better p,k,and ca numbers compared to lowering mega crop. I was using around 3.4 grams per gallon and still had too much dark green, leafier, and branchier plants in flower.
 

Grapefruitroop

Active member

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Maybe you guys wana take a look at this impressive work that a guy did on another forum about the PH drift of MC and Jacks...

https://https://overgrow.com/t/experimenting-with-the-megacrop-ph-and-buffering-chart-with-upwards-trend/16960

Im using MC too, and I'm veeeery happy, plants looks awesome but now im switching to maxi bloom at the 3rd week cause, yes ,im concerned about the extreme N levels...

:tiphat:

Yeah I’m a member there. Supposedly his testing equipment was off. Megacrop in my Rez is NOT more ph stable than jacks lol. I’ll tell you that right now.
I think he redid the test.
 

pasha.h

New member
So I am waiting for megacrop team response about raising ph. As far as I can see from some other forums it is a common problem. Maybe they could solve it in future revisions.
 

mango420

Member
Done with mc after 4 10kg bags, the newest formula is way different and doesnt dissolve nearly as good. Clogged up my drippers and filters multiple times a day. shame they need to keep changing it.
 

Grapefruitroop

Active member
Then lower the N levels or flush longer. I swear the internet is a bunch of fragile millennial children waiting to be offended. If you fail, it's your fault. You are responsible for your grow, not a fertilizer company.

Im very offended right now!:wtf::tongue:

No seriously, how do you lower the N in mega crop without lowering everything else in their recipe? I think they suggest to use their PK boost and their Sweetcandy that should boost up P K S and Mg right?
Well I wanted to do that but they are out of stock right now.....
So....I switched to Maxibloom and everything is fine.....

Im very pleased with Megacrop, in soil, I liked it, plants loved it and I feel like I really did a good thing to skip all that nitrogen....

I had few plants right under the center of the Light (super high PAR) that needed some extra N Cal Mag, I gave them and by mistake I also dosed another that wasn't in need.....no biggie....but I can totally see how that extra N made the bud more leafy.....

Ive seen pics of flowers grown all the way thru with megacrop and is very visible the extra N......That could totally work fine with some genetics and some environment and some tastes but NOT always.....

In some chart posted I've seen the full dosage megacrop (6g) having 162 PPM of N compared to Maxibloom (7g) that has 92 PPM
I didnt want to find out at harvest what this does mean so in the doubt I just switched ....... so far so good...:tiphat:
 

BillFarthing

Active member
Veteran
Megacrop ppms.
NO3- 112
NH4+ 6.6
P 34
K 186
Mg 30
Ca 74
S 25
Fe .92
Zn 1.4
B 0.92
Mn 0.92
Cu 0.53
Mo 0.13


University of Florida tomato formulation- 3rd to 5th flowering tomato cluster


N 120
P 50
K 150
Ca 150
Mg 50
S 60
Fe 2.8
Cu 0.2
Mn 0.8
Zn 0.3
B 0.7
Mo 0.05



If you are worried about CaMg, just use tap water and some phosphoric acid. I don't see any "EXTREME N". I see a balanced flowering formula.
 
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