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Gorilla Glue #4

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Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I don't get PM.. I'm assuming this is for outdoor?.. If your getting PM indoor the root cause needs to be addressed so you wont need to use anything..
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
you guys do this milk thing to keep the PM in check ??

Milk is anti-fungal, and anti-bacterial, and supplies vitamins and minerals:

"Milk, it does the body good. But did you know it may also be good for the garden? Using milk as fertilizer has been an old-time remedy in the garden for many generations. In addition to helping with plant growth, feeding plants with milk can also alleviate many issues in the garden—from calcium deficiencies to viruses and powdery mildew. Let’s find out how to take advantage of the beneficial fertilizer components in milk.
Milk Fertilizer Benefits

Milk is a good source of calcium, not only for humans, but for plants as well. Raw, or unpasteurized, cow’s milk has some of the same nourishing properties for plants that it has for animals and people. It contains beneficial proteins, vitamin B and sugars that are good for plants, improving their overall health and crop yields. The microbes that feed on the fertilizer components of milk are also beneficial to the soil.

Like us, plants use calcium for growth. A lack of calcium is indicated when plants look stunted and do not grow to their full potential. Blossom end rot, which is commonly seen in squash, tomatoes and peppers, is caused by a calcium deficiency. Feeding plants with milk ensures they will get enough moisture and calcium.

Feeding plants with milk has been used with varying effectiveness in pesticide applications, especially with aphids. Perhaps the best use of milk has been in reducing the transmission of mosaic leaf viruses, such as tobacco mosaic.

Milk has been used as an effective antifungal agent, specifically in the prevention of powdery mildew.
"
http://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/soil-fertilizers/milk-fertilizer.htm

Other links:
http://containergardening.about.com/od/vegetablesandherbs/qt/TomatoCare.htm

http://yougrowgirl.com/tomatoes-like-milk/

http://www.harvesttotable.com/2009/05/milk_and_tomato_growing/

http://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/milk-and-molasses-magic-zbcz1402.aspx
 

Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I would never use milk on my plants. I just don't see the benefit over all the Organic additives we have to take care of these things. Milk is just not something I see that would replace them..
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
Milk is organic......:biggrin:
Not saying you should use it. You asked, so just replying as to it's usefullness. It really does work. Not suggesting you need it. You're doing fine.
 

jw23ck11

Well-known member
Veteran
picture.php
 

JointOperation

Active member
just wana say great fucking job guys.. love seeing how you guys run the glue...

anyone wana toss out what nutes they are using with the pictures next time. i would love to see the difference that nutes play on this strain..

also.. anyone who has ever had problems with PM.. or wants to have something on hand that actually works.. grab a few bottles of ATAK concentrate.. put in the res.. and spray your plants..

a dude i help with his grow.. had pm on a single plant in his room.. from seed.. which was wierd for me to see that only 1 plant had it.. and the one that had it looked soo fucking healthy it was wierd..
but it worked. got rid of the plant sprayed the rest of them. and hasnt seen shit..
 

Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
everything I grow is with PBP base bloom/grow with Beneficial biologic Kelp, Humic ACID 55% (sea green but ran out). Root Bloom Myco inoculant mixed into Compost tea's that is it.
 

Gringo Kid

New member
At the moment I am feeding my GG4 babies House and Garden line up. General Organics Cal Mag every other water when not flushing. I always use R/O water. 50/50 mix of Ocean Forest and small course perlite.
 

Backyard Farmer

Active member
Veteran
Sea shield is Bomb. Sea shield sea Stim and sea crop work really well, I like PHT phos and pht cal too. I'm going to try using hyper cap in the spring when it's cooler.
 

milkyjoe

Senior Member
Veteran
Sea shield is Bomb. Sea shield sea Stim and sea crop work really well, I like PHT phos and pht cal too. I'm going to try using hyper cap in the spring when it's cooler.

In the soil...gonna try to jump start em with some soluble P? Do you think you can avoid shutting down the myco fungi?
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
everything I grow is with PBP base bloom/grow with Beneficial biologic Kelp, Humic ACID 55% (sea green but ran out). Root Bloom Myco inoculant mixed into Compost tea's that is it.

Bennies are great, no doubt about it. Why fight pathogens that can be prevented just by having the right stuff in your mix?
 

Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
My girls lov what I'm doing. I noticed the improvment in there vigor and growth rate after adding these to my base mix. Once in Veg, Once in Flower. The stuff I use is a bit different than other similar products. Most other blends available are a mix of endos and ectos (and are predominately ectos). 85% of plant species form a relationship with endomycorrhizae, whereas only 10% form a relationship with Ectomycorrhizae (and most of these are trees). Root Bloom gives you the option to inoculate your short-crop annuals with what they need, and not waste your money on the wrong organisms! Built on the principle modeled in nature that diversity is the key to success... The formula with multiple endomycorrhizae strains to allow the plant and soil to choose what species best suites it. I tried OG Biowar I liked this much better.


We have consciously chosen to omit Trichoderma harzianum from our formula. Although this organism has been shown to have beneficial uses, there are studies that bring into question its relationship with mycorrhizae. Some studies indicate that it may adversely affect the colonization rate of mycorrhizae on the plant's roots. For this reason, we thought it unwise to add Trichoderma to our formula. If our goal is to inoculate mycorrhizae, why would we want an organism in there that stands in the way of this goal.


Bacteria Ten plant-growth promoting rhizobacteria have been added to make this inoculant truly beneficial..


Endomycorrhizae-Mycorrhizae
Glomus intraradices (55 prop/gm)
Glomus mosseae (55 prop/gm)
Glomus aggregatum (55 prop/gm)
Glomus etunicatum (55 prop/gm)
Glomus clarum (5.5 prop/gm)
Glomus monosporum (5.5 prop/gm)
Glomus brazilianum (5.5 prop/gm)
Glomus deserticola (5.5 prop/gm)
Gigaspora margarita (6.5 prop/gm)






Bacteria

Bacteria-
-Bacillus pumilis - 2,300,000 CFU/gm
has been shown to inhibit certain pathogenic fungi
-Bacillus coagulans - 2,300,000 CFU/gm
phosphorus solubilizer
-Bacillus megaterium - 2,300,000 CFU/gm
phosphorus solubilizer
-Bacillus licheniformis - 2,300,000 CFU/gm
digests proteins in the soil, especially feathermeal
-Bacillus azotoformans - 2,300,000 CFU/gm
reduces excess nitrates in the soil
-Bacillus thuringiensis - 2,500,000 CFU/gm
acts as a larvacide of certain pests
-Paenibacillus polymyxa - 2,300,000 CFU/gm
fixes atmospheric nitrogen into a plant usable form
-Paenibacillus durum - 2,300,000 CFU/gm
converts ammonia into nitrates
-Azotobacter chroococcum - 2,500,000 CFU/gm
powerful nitrogen fixer
-Pseudomonas aureofaceans - 2,200,000 CFU/gm
thrives in clay soils

Yeast-
-Sacchromyces cervisiae - 2,200,000 CFU/gm
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
About the trichoderma harzianum-mycorrhizae conundrum:
Since trichoderma are parasitic fungi, they will eat both pathogenic fungi and beneficial fungi, which includes mycorrhizae. If added together, the trichoderma will eat the mycorrizae. There is however, a way around this for coco growers (I know you are not in coco). Since coco has trichoderma naturally, if you add mycorrhizae, they may well be consumed by the trichoderma. However, if you start your seeds or clones in Fox Farms Lightwarrior, which is a light sphagnum mix with mycorrhizae, and humic acid, an immune system booster, and earthworm castings. The mycorrhizae will establish immediately on the roots. I like to use large solo cups for this. Once the root system is established, and the cup is filled with roots, then they are transplanted to coco. Since the roots are already colonized with mycorrhizae, they are not overwhelmed by the trichoderma, but rather form a symbiotic relationship with the roots and each other. The root system is amplified immensely by the microscopic roots of the micorrhizae, and the trichoderma will consume any pathogens (fusarium, botrytis, pythium etc), and will also break down organisms which will feed the micorrhizzae, and hence the plant. Only if the micorrhizae are established first will the two work together successfully. This tip is for the coco growers. It works really well.

More info and links for those interested:

Trichoderma affects mycorrhizal fungi in petri dishes, but on plant roots their effects are frequently and beneficially additive or synergistic.
Trichoderma (depends on species/strain) can acts as antagonist to other soil borne pathogenic fungi such as Rhizoctonia spp. If the plant has well colonized mycorrhiza, the presence (quantity is imp here) of trichoderma provide an additional benefit to the plant. However, if there is large quantity before the application of AMF, then trichoderma will prevent AMF to establish.

http://www.researchgate.net/post/Does_Trichoderma_interfere_with_mycorrhizae_root_colonization


Arbuscular mycorrhizal (AM) fungi as well as microbial-free inoculants used as phytostimulators (Azospirillum) or as biological control agents of fungi (Pseudomonas and Trichoderma) have shown beneficial effects on plant growth and health. The study of plants inoculated with biological control agents and AMF requires special attention because of the possibility that these fungal antagonists could also interfere with AM fungi. Our study was performed to test the effects of these inoculants upon mycorrhizal colonization in maize plants inoculated with Glomus mosseae, Glomus deserticola and natural AMF from the test soil. Populations of culturable bacteria and fungi in the rhizosphere soil were also examined since inoculation with AM fungi and other soil microorganisms can affect both quantitatively and qualitatively the microbial communities in the plant rhizosphere. Enzyme activities (esterase, phosphatase, trehalase and chitinase) were used as an index to detect changes in the microbial functioning in soil, as affected by mycorrhizal and other inoculation treatments. None of the microbial inoculants used, even those biocontrol agents of fungi, showed negative effects on AM establishment. Mycorrhizal colonization induced qualitative changes in the bacterial population depending on the inoculant combination involved. Esterase activity was particularly increased by G. mosseae (256%), phosphatase activity by natural AMF (166%), chitinase by G. mosseae (197%), G. deserticola (152%) and natural AMF (151%), and trehalase by G. deserticola (444%). As a result of mycorrhizal colonization and microbial inoculation, modifications of the microbial community structure and ecology were found. An understanding of these effects as part of ecosystem processes is essential for obtaining the maximum benefit for plant growth and health in the context of soil–plant system sustainability.

http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0929139300000755
 

milkyjoe

Senior Member
Veteran
I like to dip my rooting cubes in mykogenesis (a tainio product) before I pot them. Get them infected before they ever go into the soil. It is a veggie grower trick that actually seems to help.
 

dali kush

Member
I just gotta put my 2 cents in. When i started gardening i started with bottled nutes. I always had problems with my grow. When I switched to TLO everything worked out a hundred times better. Letting the plant decide what it needs imo is much better. Im only here to help my ladies do what they do naturally. They do the work and i just do minor maintenance for them. My meds taste better, they smell better (higher turpenes), and are more potent. I am able to recycle and reuse my soil as well. My time in the garden has been dramatically decreased and my plants are way healthier.
 

dali kush

Member
I also areo clone in just tapwater and no rooting harmones. I put 10 drops of GO camg plus and i see roots starting within 7 days. My clones never yellow or show signs of stress.
 
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