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Gorilla Glue #4 - Part II

Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
The longer a plant is left in flower is when you see those colors.. It wont matter what medium you use. They will start to die(senescence).
 

dank.frank

ef.yu.se.ka.e.em
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I think you have apoptosis and senescence confused. One involves cellular death - the other is simply a hormonal change that instructs a plant how to finish and come to the end of it's production cycle.

Senescence is a NECESSARY part of having a fully mature plant. I never had an issue with Glue getting color at 9wks. It's not the result of extended flowering or letting her go to long - it's the result of not over-feeding in the first place and allowing the plant to be in control of it's own nutrient allocation.

The plant is fully in control. I also don't "flush" or use any type of flushing agent, such as clearx or whatever. Perhaps, that just the way things go when it really is a water only approach. :tiphat:



dank.Frank

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Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I think you have apoptosis and senescence confused. One involves cellular death - the other is simply a hormonal change that instructs a plant how to finish and come to the end of it's production cycle.

Senescence is a NECESSARY part of having a fully mature plant. I never had an issue with Glue getting color at 9wks. It's not the result of extended flowering or letting her go to long - it's the result of not over-feeding in the first place and allowing the plant to be in control of it's own nutrient allocation.

The plant is fully in control. I also don't "flush" or use any type of flushing agent, such as clearx or whatever. Perhaps, that just the way things go when it really is a water only approach. :tiphat:

dank.Frank


You could be right. From what i understand Senescence is programed cell death?.


Rarely have I had plants start Senescence until 10 weeks. IME all plants color when left in flower long enough if that's what your after. I've tried both never noticed improvements in quality. In fact Ive noticed the loss of flav/terpens with plants flowered longer than others. You end up with more Amber heads. I don't like a lot of amber heads. 99.5% of the plants I grow even after a 2 week flush don't have color at 65 days. My feed is 1-1.2 ec on all plants feed in flower. If I start flush at week 5 and have cold lights out temps I can get plants to color every time.. This Amber cookies fade stared at week 5/6 with night temps at 60f. Fed 1.1ec in promix HP.. Harvested at 67 days.

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mack 10

Resin Herder
Veteran
Lovely plants guys.
I do also prefer the 70 day.
The extra week just pumps the gas and choc notes come through.
 

dank.frank

ef.yu.se.ka.e.em
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Hammer, with all due respect - you grow some absolutely stunning beautiful flowers. I'm not even going to sit here and act like you don't. I have true respect for what you do and how you do it.

I also know - your flowers won the first cannabis cup that GG#4 was ever awarded. I'll never forget that and others shouldn't either. It's a hallmark and a milestone of what this cultivar has become. OG--->Forum--->GG#4 - THAT is a hall of fame.

I KNOW - you can and do grow the glue better than 99.9% of people.

Please understand, I'm only discussing this from the perspective of grower theory and I'm not casting any stones....

The only time my flowers EVER looked like yours, was - when instead of pushing P/K/Ca/Mg at 3 and 5 wks. I pushed it weeks 1-3 instead. I had flowers at 3wks that looked like they were at 6wks otherwise.

BUT

They smoked like 'mersh.

At the same time, I have no idea what "ppm" my plants are getting, taking, absorbing...whatever. I'm no expert in liquid solutions, and I fully admit, I DO NOT posses adequate information to translate your growing style into a metric that makes any logical sense to me.

We approach this task a bit differently.

BUT - I KNOW - you produce exceptional quality. What you are saying doesn't fall on deaf ears - I *THINK*... I fundamentally disagree with what you are proposing and saying. But that goes back to the whole semantics of dry amendments vs bottle feeds, and well, that's a rabbit hole.

At the end of the day - much respect to what you do and how you get it done. Your work speaks for itself. Period. A part of me wishes I understood the way you grow. Another, much larger part of me - is really glad I don't. That has zero to do with my ability to recognize your work and your contributions over the years. I hope you know I have a sincere respect for you. :tiphat:



dank.Frank
 

blazeoneup

The Helpful One
Moderator
Chat Moderator
Veteran
I've always felt like I got my best overall expression from most plants, with about a 5 to 10% amber which in my experience seems to be the point at which the highest % of trichomes are cloudy with the least amount of clear. There are so many factors at play though and environment plays a critical role as well as genetics. So knowing that to each their own.

When it comes to Terpenes it's all about the wax layer on the trichome IMHO. In my years of testing and researching, I've come to the conclusion that the most flavorful nugs are produced with a thick wax layer on the Trichome.

If you want nugs with a longer shelf life, that can retain terpenes longer, and produce a more flavorful product it's all about the wax layer of the Trichome.

In my experience Potassium Silicate is one of the best supplements you can use to increase the thickness of the wax layer thus providing more Terpene retention and a more flavorful product with a longer shelf life.

If your not using potassium silicate, I doubt you have the shelf life or terpene retention of someone who does. I've tested this many times over and all test resulted in the same conclusion. Using a potassium silicate will most definantly increase the thickness of the wax layer of the trichome and in turn retain more terpene and flavanoids. Over use it and you will also regret it because your product will be harsh burning and just not as enjoyable. So as with any supplement less is more.

This also translates to extractions, not really so much rosin cause the heat does a great job of melting it regardless of thickness, but when it comes to hydrocarbon extractions it makes a huge difference, If I extract nugs with a thick wax layer they require more contact time with the hydrocarbon in order to fully extract the cannabinoid. In an open blast it requires an extra can of contact time to fully extract.

I have not figured out if it's the potassium, silicon or combination of both that is the responsible.
 
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Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Hammer, with all due respect - you grow some absolutely stunning beautiful flowers. I'm not even going to sit here and act like you don't. I have true respect for what you do and how you do it.

I also know - your flowers won the first cannabis cup that GG#4 was ever awarded. I'll never forget that and others shouldn't either. It's a hallmark and a milestone of what this cultivar has become. OG--->Forum--->GG#4 - THAT is a hall of fame.

I KNOW - you can and do grow the glue better than 99.9% of people.

Please understand, I'm only discussing this from the perspective of grower theory and I'm not casting any stones....

The only time my flowers EVER looked like yours, was - when instead of pushing P/K/Ca/Mg at 3 and 5 wks. I pushed it weeks 1-3 instead. I had flowers at 3wks that looked like they were at 6wks otherwise.

BUT

They smoked like 'mersh.

At the same time, I have no idea what "ppm" my plants are getting, taking, absorbing...whatever. I'm no expert in liquid solutions, and I fully admit, I DO NOT posses adequate information to translate your growing style into a metric that makes any logical sense to me.

We approach this task a bit differently.

BUT - I KNOW - you produce exceptional quality. What you are saying doesn't fall on deaf ears - I *THINK*... I fundamentally disagree with what you are proposing and saying. But that goes back to the whole semantics of dry amendments vs bottle feeds, and well, that's a rabbit hole.

At the end of the day - much respect to what you do and how you get it done. Your work speaks for itself. Period. A part of me wishes I understood the way you grow. Another, much larger part of me - is really glad I don't. That has zero to do with my ability to recognize your work and your contributions over the years. I hope you know I have a sincere respect for you.
tiphat.gif


dank.Frank


Not to worry DF. Ive known you long enough to know that's not what your doing. Believe me I enjoy our conversations. I learn stuff from you all the time


All the plants I grow are testers from my seeds.. I def put great care in what I grow. I want people to see whats possible from inexpensive seeds. When we love what we do it shows in the final product. In this market cant have Pets, molds or pesticides show up :D. As long as I'm happy with my flowers and those that smoke them that's all that matters.

What Ive noticed is plants that get adequate N will fade to maroon at harvest, these start out fading from dark green to Purple/Black than to maroon. Plants that are lighter green just fade to yellow. It def feed related, from what ive seen others EC use my feed is very low. I cant get any to fade like the plant above without a long flush and cooler temps. If I do 2 weeks with temps above 70f those colors don't show unless I let them flower to 80 days. These are my results, that's all I'm stating here.
 
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Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Yep, always been 12/12 flower ---18/6 veg. I swapped out to CMH 4 or 5 years ago? using 3k-r/4k bulbs in ea fixture. Some strains seem to finish a bit faster since swapping to CMH. Everything has been allot better/happier/healthier than I ever got with HPS.
 

Zomboy

Well-known member
Veteran
Yep, always been 12/12 flower ---18/6 veg. I swapped out to CMH 4 or 5 years ago? using 3k-r/4k bulbs in ea fixture. Some strains seem to finish a bit faster since swapping to CMH. Everything has been allot better/happier/healthier than I ever got with HPS.

Off topic, Just grabbed a pack of your flashbang hammer. Seen some good things.
 
G

Guest

I’m getting ready for my first run of a gifted cut and have read that GG4 doesn’t like too much light. Has anyone taken any readings to learn more about what umol level is optimum?
 

star crash

We Will Get By ... We Will Survive
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I’m getting ready for my first run of a gifted cut and have read that GG4 doesn’t like too much light. Has anyone taken any readings to learn more about what umol level is optimum?

Glue likes light just fine.



dank.Frank

:tiphat:I’ve run the GG4 for over five years straight never had any problem with her light particulars ...she reacts just like any other plant in any other grow room ...at least according to my own observations...Good luck she’s one of my favorite plants
 

CannaRed

Cannabinerd
I think I've ran gg4 4 times now. I can't seem to get it to taste the way it did the very first time.
Buds don't seem to ever dense up either. Everything else in the tent came out excellent.

I use gh Flora series by the cocoforcannabis feed schedule.

I think I need to go back to a hybrid organic/synthetic grow. She just don't taste, smell as dank and gassy like it's supposed to.

Buddy I got it from says to up the magnesium by using Epsom salts.
 
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