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GAVITA Pro 1000 DE
- Thread starter TacomaComa
- Start date
Okay, good to know. I ordered some and received all but one. Was told it would ship straight from manufacturer and that they were told by the Gavita folks that they had no idea how long it would take because of production back ups.
Guess I'll check back with the store.
Guess I'll check back with the store.
Thanks for the info whazzup. Looking forward to getting them hung up and producing.
Do you happen to know if it's possible to order direct from you guys?
I work at a Hydro store and our current supplier, Sunlight Supply, has been out of stock for a little and I know of a few customers that have been wanting to buy the 1000's. Some even willing to pre-pay as long as we can even get them.
O
ogrow
Sorry to be a pain in the butt, whazzup.
I just read somewhere that the footprint of the Gavita's are 3:2. So before I build my tables, what is the most ideal layout for 2 1000W's?
I just read somewhere that the footprint of the Gavita's are 3:2. So before I build my tables, what is the most ideal layout for 2 1000W's?
1.8m x 2m are great measurements for average 1000 umol s-1 m-2.
Hang 2 in-line on the 2m axis, 105 cm apart. Keep 80 cm distance to your crop, or 90 cm when using 1150W, averaging around 1150 umol s-1 m-2. All assuming you have walled of your grow area with high reflective film. Especially in small rooms wall influences are high.
Hang 2 in-line on the 2m axis, 105 cm apart. Keep 80 cm distance to your crop, or 90 cm when using 1150W, averaging around 1150 umol s-1 m-2. All assuming you have walled of your grow area with high reflective film. Especially in small rooms wall influences are high.
O
ogrow
Awesome! Thanks!
It's walled off on 3 sides. I'll see if I can do something movable as the fourth wall.
It's walled off on 3 sides. I'll see if I can do something movable as the fourth wall.
O
ogrow
Yeah, I have an idea about a 1/3 wall or a roll up curtain that goes from down to up, that will work without obstructing ventilation and still being able to get to the plants.
Thanks for all your help. Must appreciated
Thanks for all your help. Must appreciated
I have 2 rooms, each is 12'x24'x8'. I'm going to use one per 5'x5' area with a 2' walk path down the center of the garden. There's going to be 9 pro 1000 DE's in each room. Can you help me with distances from lamp to lamp and also height from the tops of plants? Thank you.
Certainly go with what whazzup advices. For my room which is 12 foot wide he suggested placing 3 feet from the walls with 6 feet in between.
As you can see from this pic the spread is awesome.
It doesn't work that way. You don't light a table, you light a room. 5x5 is not the right size, the reflector does not have a square field.
12' x 24' please guys, when do you start to use metric like the rest of the (scientific) world
3.6 x 7.2m = 26 m2 so you need about about 28000 umol = 14 fixtures per room to light it completely with 1000 umol m-2 s-1 (including some losses, using orca film or similar for wall reflection).
2 lines of 7, lines 2.1m apart, center of the lamps in the line 1.05 apart. At 80 cm to a meter distance the light levels will be above 1000 umol with a uniformity of >90% and guaranteed no hotspots under the lamps, levels never get higher than about 1150 locally ar 80 cm distance. 90 cm - 1 m is best distance with this config.
This is not the topic maybe to discuss these things though.
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do you ever adjust your lights or do you keep them at the same height?
Remember every room is different, what works for you needn't work for someone else, think about placement, outer paths, paths on one side, wall reflectivity, plant height etc. Usually we place the outer lamps a bit closer to the walls to make up for the losses of the wall - this increases uniformity in the room.
Also always remember that the measurements I give are CENTER of the LAMP - not the space between the fixtures in-line
N-P-Kali
Active member
@whazzup. I purchased 8-SE's and 6 DE's. From an electrical code stand point I know this is not an issue however I would very much appreciate you take on the matter. Instead of running multiple receptacle boxes with single receptacles to each light I decided to splice the reflectors lamp cord at the base of the 240v nema plug and group 3-4 lamp cords into a 4S box surface mounted. Then I ran 3/4" or 19.5mm flexible conduit with the appropriate number of wires, sized correctly of course, from that location to another 4S box adjacent to the lighting control station for the system. I purchased as many 240v lamp cords with plugs as was necessary and grouped and pigtailed them with the corresponding incoming wire sets on the load side (lighting side) back to the line side. Basically what I did what extend the length of the lamp cord on the Gavita's by using to junction boxes, 12awg THHN wires, flexible conduit, and an additional set of 240v lamp cords in order to centralize the controls for the lighting system so every light plug is centrally located outside the room next to the control station. This shouldn't be an issue in my eyes but I very much respect your opinion and would be appreciative of any comment(s) you may have on this slight modification. Thank you
It is hard for me to understand what exactly you have done but:
1 - Never extend the lamp cord. That's not wise as you are operating a >100 kHz ballast, plus it could lead to ignition problems.
2- Never bundle the lamp cords with the mains cords, as this results in high frequency feedback into the ballast. As all machines are amplifiers that is not a good idea
The ballasts are so cool (if you mount them appropriate, vertically out of the light) that you can mount them close to the light. After a 12 hour run you can still lay your cheek to it. This way you just need to go in with a few appropriate 240V mains leads and divide them over the ballasts, much less wiring than all those lamp cords which you should keep as short as possible.
Probably that's what you did but this is my last post before I go off-line, I am moving
1 - Never extend the lamp cord. That's not wise as you are operating a >100 kHz ballast, plus it could lead to ignition problems.
2- Never bundle the lamp cords with the mains cords, as this results in high frequency feedback into the ballast. As all machines are amplifiers that is not a good idea
The ballasts are so cool (if you mount them appropriate, vertically out of the light) that you can mount them close to the light. After a 12 hour run you can still lay your cheek to it. This way you just need to go in with a few appropriate 240V mains leads and divide them over the ballasts, much less wiring than all those lamp cords which you should keep as short as possible.
Probably that's what you did but this is my last post before I go off-line, I am moving
Yes my lights will be on rope ratchets. I mounted them up high like that while I finished working on the room so they would be out of the way.
While I suppose I could have waited until the room was completely done before hanging them, that would be kind of like asking a kid to not play with his Christmas presents on Christmas day.
Yeah I measured from the center of the bulb where the little glass "nipple" is.
advanced396
Member
Whazzup
Building a new room 10Mx10M with 3.5M ceiling. I want to know how many Gavita pro 1000 I can put, mixed with some large adjusta wings 1000 Hps . I Want to have 49 trees in 7 gallon smart pots. What would you recommend?
Thanks
Building a new room 10Mx10M with 3.5M ceiling. I want to know how many Gavita pro 1000 I can put, mixed with some large adjusta wings 1000 Hps . I Want to have 49 trees in 7 gallon smart pots. What would you recommend?
Thanks
