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Fungus gnats or WINGED ROOT APHIDS???
- Thread starter spleebale
- Start date
jahrastafareye
Member
so if one little panda applies imid to a mother plant. and then weeks later takes clones from that plant, is it ok to give those clones more imid?(once rooted of course) .
as long as they stay in veg for a good while , all remaining pesticide should be gone by the end of flower?
as long as they stay in veg for a good while , all remaining pesticide should be gone by the end of flower?
as long as the plant has 60 days to go (flower), you should be fine giving clones another dose of IMID.
realistically, you should apply IMID to all the plants in your garden. not just mothers or affected ones. EVERY plant and clone should get some until the problem is gone.
when you don't see bugs for about 3 weeks, you can perhaps discontinue using IMID and use organic stuff like gognats/azamax/azatrol and crushed mosquito dunks in your media/water as a preventative
i recently realized i had the dreaded aphids as well. like others, i thought they were gnats and i assumed my low yields, poor plant health was something i was doing wrong.
I tried applying imid to a tray of freshly rooted clones to no avail. The problem with imid is that it requires the aphids to actually feed on the roots to poison the aphids. However, while these aphids feed on the roots, the plant is still taking major damage.
I actually had better results after chopping down all but a couple of moms and a few plants in flower and applying azamax. The azamax for sure killed the aphids on contact as id see a bunch of them dead everytime i sprayed or drenched. however, this only seemed to slow the aphids down for a couple of days during the peak of infection.
What finally reduced the population significantly was live lady bugs in my bloom room. I put about 100 of em where they have been thriving for a few weeks. Once the lady bugs got accustomed to the bloom room they were crawling all around the leaves of the plants as well as the smart pots.
Its now a few weeks after introducing the ladybugs and i have not seen many flyers at all, even though i stopped treating with azamax.
i read that the lady bugs will not work against aphids that live in the growing media. However, i have noticed a massive reduction and will actually be able to pull a harvest out of my bloom closet.
On a side note, before i realized i had root aphids, i used worm castings top dressed in coco as an attempt to revive my infected plants enough so i could clone them. After about a week, the infected plants started growing again. Other plants that were not treated with the worm castings continued to decline even though they were right next to each other.
I read somewhere that the castings encourage the growth of micro organisms that release an enzyme that make the plant taste bad to the pests. This definately seems to be the case.
I wonder if a worm tea into a media like coco would be an even quicker way to restore an infected plant. I havent seen the castings mentioned in this thread yet so thought id share my experiences with both the lady bugs and the castings.
I tried applying imid to a tray of freshly rooted clones to no avail. The problem with imid is that it requires the aphids to actually feed on the roots to poison the aphids. However, while these aphids feed on the roots, the plant is still taking major damage.
I actually had better results after chopping down all but a couple of moms and a few plants in flower and applying azamax. The azamax for sure killed the aphids on contact as id see a bunch of them dead everytime i sprayed or drenched. however, this only seemed to slow the aphids down for a couple of days during the peak of infection.
What finally reduced the population significantly was live lady bugs in my bloom room. I put about 100 of em where they have been thriving for a few weeks. Once the lady bugs got accustomed to the bloom room they were crawling all around the leaves of the plants as well as the smart pots.
Its now a few weeks after introducing the ladybugs and i have not seen many flyers at all, even though i stopped treating with azamax.
i read that the lady bugs will not work against aphids that live in the growing media. However, i have noticed a massive reduction and will actually be able to pull a harvest out of my bloom closet.
On a side note, before i realized i had root aphids, i used worm castings top dressed in coco as an attempt to revive my infected plants enough so i could clone them. After about a week, the infected plants started growing again. Other plants that were not treated with the worm castings continued to decline even though they were right next to each other.
I read somewhere that the castings encourage the growth of micro organisms that release an enzyme that make the plant taste bad to the pests. This definately seems to be the case.
I wonder if a worm tea into a media like coco would be an even quicker way to restore an infected plant. I havent seen the castings mentioned in this thread yet so thought id share my experiences with both the lady bugs and the castings.
Lady bugs are not going to control RAs.
RAs live under the soil/medium, where lady bugs don't go.
Imid or Botaniguard ES are the only things that will wipe out RAs.
Imid only works if plants are drinking when used as a drench.
If roots are badly damaged, plants cannot drink.
A foliar application of imid will work.
RAs live under the soil/medium, where lady bugs don't go.
Imid or Botaniguard ES are the only things that will wipe out RAs.
Imid only works if plants are drinking when used as a drench.
If roots are badly damaged, plants cannot drink.
A foliar application of imid will work.
I have been using tea made of Earthworm castings. I dont think it deters the aphids but deters the bad bacteria, pathogens, and other shit that attacks the roots that have been chewed on by the aphids. The aphids leave wounds on the roots which makes them more susceptable to bacterial infection. The worm castings keep the bad bacteria away thus reducing the chance of rot.
I have had root rot like a motherfucker for months. I have tried h2o2, bleach, hygrozyme, and wormshit tea to try to stop it. I didnt even realize I had aphids because mine are too small to see (I even had lasik 2 years ago and have perfect eye sight). The h2o2 and bleach barely made a difference. The hygrozyme gave me brown algae, which is a nightmare in itself. The EWC tea did the most good, but couldnt maintain healthy roots when they were being demolished by these rotten fucking bugs.
I have been using the Imid for 11 days now and I have almost killed them off. I had RA's everywhere (even on my tv). Who knows where else they have been, you can only see them on a black background. Today I found 2 of them and they werent on plants. I have reduced their numbers by 99.9%, and I have some botanigard on the way.
i initially thought the lady bugs would not do a thing after reading that the lady bugs wont dig under the soil. i mostly got them to prevent any new pest attacks on my damaged early flowering plants
Once the lady bugs went to work, i no longer had to reapply the azamax. I dont know for sure it was the lady bugs, but i DO see them crawling around the smart pots where all roots used to get attacked. They also go inside the smart pots in any gaps and crawl along the base of the plant.
I will definately have to give foliar imid a go as well since I'll be doing a hydro run soon.
N
NachoConQueso
I'm using SNS-203 for sure next time. Read what people have said about it from these other forums. All natural and it works really well supposedly. Could it finally be the end of Bayer?
http://www.sierranaturalscience.com/SNS203.html
http://weedtracker.com/cannabis/topic/243967-root-aphids-need-advice/page__st__25
http://www.420magazine.com/forums/hydroponic-gardening/132832-root-aphids-hydro-any-help.html
http://www.sierranaturalscience.com/SNS203.html
http://weedtracker.com/cannabis/topic/243967-root-aphids-need-advice/page__st__25
http://www.420magazine.com/forums/hydroponic-gardening/132832-root-aphids-hydro-any-help.html
N
NachoConQueso
Here's another product with similar ingredients that people are having success with.
http://www.ecosmart.com/products/garden-insect-killer/
http://www.ecosmart.com/products/garden-insect-killer/
overgrowit
Member
Can anyone suggest any strains that are resistant to these fuckers? I have noticed my Amazing Haze plants will get huge fat buds while other strains that used to be nice come out like shit.
Also what type of system or medium works the best as far as controlling them? I first got root aphids while using rockwool slabs, now im using promix in 7 gallon pots and they are back and it is hard to drench the roots when working with that much medium
Nothing seems to completely kill them and they are nearly impossible to spot. I am thinking of switching back to rockwool blocks so that i can keep an eye on the roots better and be able to apply control chemicals easier.
Anyone try Roots excelurator for repairing damaged roots or help with new roots?
Also what type of system or medium works the best as far as controlling them? I first got root aphids while using rockwool slabs, now im using promix in 7 gallon pots and they are back and it is hard to drench the roots when working with that much medium
Nothing seems to completely kill them and they are nearly impossible to spot. I am thinking of switching back to rockwool blocks so that i can keep an eye on the roots better and be able to apply control chemicals easier.
Anyone try Roots excelurator for repairing damaged roots or help with new roots?
More info on SNS-203 here-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m6jhlHG_Jck&feature=related
Nacho, It seems to me that you are going to need at least one systemic product to treat RA's. There is NO WAY you are going to hit each and every flyer, aphid, larvae, and egg with any product, so you have to hit them when they try to eat. If a poison remains in the plants for 3 weeks, any bug that eats those plants is going to die, thus ending the life cycle.
I think using safe and natural products is great in theory, but from my experiences with MJ eating bugs I have found that those products dont work. Personally I would rather smoke a couple micrograms of Floramite on some healthy bud than smoke a shitload of neem oil on some ravaged bud covered in dead spider mites.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m6jhlHG_Jck&feature=related
Nacho, It seems to me that you are going to need at least one systemic product to treat RA's. There is NO WAY you are going to hit each and every flyer, aphid, larvae, and egg with any product, so you have to hit them when they try to eat. If a poison remains in the plants for 3 weeks, any bug that eats those plants is going to die, thus ending the life cycle.
I think using safe and natural products is great in theory, but from my experiences with MJ eating bugs I have found that those products dont work. Personally I would rather smoke a couple micrograms of Floramite on some healthy bud than smoke a shitload of neem oil on some ravaged bud covered in dead spider mites.
Coco!
Easy to eradicate in coco.
One drench when pots are dry and no more RAs, ever.
Hydro is a nightmare with RAs.
Potting soil, even premium can have RAs in it.
Coco is the answer if you want to rid your life of RAs permanently.
i do not recommend this product. it is a foliar spray and burnt my clones.
Terrible advice!!!!!
this shit will kill your plants it did mine, eats holes in the leaves and the bugs love this stuff.all ecosmart stuff sucks!
use it and suffer
N
NachoConQueso
I never gave advice now did I? I posted a link to a product that I've never used which I said had similar ingredients to SNS-203. Read much? People are having success with SNS-203. So yeah just trying to help those who don't want to smoke imid. I'll promote it and say it works when I use it and it actually works. Satisfied?
Why switch from Bayer if we know it works? Because Bayer is disgusting and bad for the environment also don't tell me none of you have ever dumped 20 gal of water with imid at 10mL/gal right down the drain after a Bayer dunk. Who would want to use this shit knowing that there MIGHT be something that's totally safe and effective? Does imid not affect bees and other living organisms? I'd happily treat my plants several times over a cycle if it meant not I didn't have to use Bayer. You can't deny the truth that imid is harmful on some level. Or keep supporting Bayer and shitting on the environment and your own bodies. People who spend time growing plants should have the respect to treat the plants as good as the plants and earth, which gives you fucking plants, treat you. Fucking pathetic. And people complain about why this planet is so screwed up...
Neg rep me or whatever. At least some people truly give a fuck about the plant.
michigan.mmma
Member
i dont think imid is as harmful as you think. it is used on pets and also fruits and vegetables that are consumed. if people use it before they start flowering there should be no imid in the plant when harvested. this is an effective method to battle RAs and people should not be mislead to think it is dangerous if used properly.
also, yes it does harm bees but i hope people aren't doing a dunk then dumping all the solution on a bee hive or in a bee's natural environment. if people are applying in a way that they need to dispose of the solution, then they dump it down the drain, isnt that the best place for it? not going into the environment but to a water treatment facility?
if there are other methods that are effective that is great. but people should know imid is a good product and safe and effective against RA's. It is also very cheap compared to $100 per gallon and applying 2-4oz per gallon.
Im also pretty skeptical about this sns-203. i have not heard of anyone completely getting rid of RA's with this product yet. Knocking them back is one thing but getting rid of them completely is the end goal. Even the link you posted the guy says the sns-203 took out 95% of the fliers and 98% off the roots. Unfortunately that is not good enough. Left that way they will return in greater numbers. The guy also says after the two treatments of sns-203 he treated the plants with BAYER TREE & SHRUB.
if sns203 works, thats great. But imid is good and safe and it definitely works. I had these things for a year and it was misery. if people are here looking for info on battling RA's, they need the correct info. No hard feelings but i think many people on here would agree that imid used properly is safe for plants, people, and the environment and growers should not be afraid to use it.
no disrespect, but there are people all over this and other forums, that have used both imid and /or botaniguard to no avail even in coco. I think it highly depends on the type of aphids one has and perhaps the region. It is also is a huge disservice to people here to claim that something works all the time when in fact, it is known to fail. This can be a very costly thing to find out later.
Is there some studies im missing or user experiences that i have overlooked?
i also am curious about the theory that aphids are harder to get rid of in hydro. You said a few pages earlier that you had aphids in coco correct? Where are you getting this info from?
I've read this whole thread but maybe i missed something?
