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Fungus gnats or WINGED ROOT APHIDS???
- Thread starter spleebale
- Start date
ya those are gnats. If you really want evidence, dig down a bit into the medium and look close for the little maggots. They are from 1/8"-1/4" in length and have a kinda clear body with a black dot on one end, which is its head. Very similar to the big house fly maggots, only tiny.
Beware...if you see these maggots, you may not be able to sleep tonight. I couldn't...
Beware...if you see these maggots, you may not be able to sleep tonight. I couldn't...
frikn squirrel
Member
Here's a pic of root aphid damage at day 56, right before harvest
^^^^^
Actually, that pic above looks more like the damage caused by the offgassing NGW hose in the link in my sig! That pic is NOT root aphid damage IMHO. PM sent to you squirrel.
Edit: squirrel says plants are in soil so maybe that's not the same stuff. Looks exactly like it though...
Actually, that pic above looks more like the damage caused by the offgassing NGW hose in the link in my sig! That pic is NOT root aphid damage IMHO. PM sent to you squirrel.
Edit: squirrel says plants are in soil so maybe that's not the same stuff. Looks exactly like it though...
Last edited:
Here's what i did....
Here's what i did....
I had a rather large infestation that i noticed early. I run an ebb&flow.
I mixed up a rather potent batch of H2O2(5%) and ran it through my system for about an hour. This will kill all of them that it touches and drive the others to the surface. At the same time i set off a total release fogger to kill the ones that came to the top. Little bastards had nowhere to go...then I top watered with a fresh H2o2 mix again to catch any of the hold-outs.
I waited about a day or so(with no water/feeding to ensure they would suck it up) and then gave them a dose of the bayer citris(6 ml/gal). This wiped them out.
I now give my plants a dose of the bayer citris two weeks into flowering(I run a perpetual SOG so no veg time).
It's been months with not a sign of them.
Good luck....
Here's what i did....
I had a rather large infestation that i noticed early. I run an ebb&flow.
I mixed up a rather potent batch of H2O2(5%) and ran it through my system for about an hour. This will kill all of them that it touches and drive the others to the surface. At the same time i set off a total release fogger to kill the ones that came to the top. Little bastards had nowhere to go...then I top watered with a fresh H2o2 mix again to catch any of the hold-outs.
I waited about a day or so(with no water/feeding to ensure they would suck it up) and then gave them a dose of the bayer citris(6 ml/gal). This wiped them out.
I now give my plants a dose of the bayer citris two weeks into flowering(I run a perpetual SOG so no veg time).
It's been months with not a sign of them.
Good luck....
HEY yall!
I received my Bayers tree and shrub today through Fedex! So to all you Canadians: I ordered this shit through Amazon and it made it to my door in approx. 2 wks after placing order. Bottle was 29.95 and shipping was 35$! So around 70$.
Thanks to all who responded and offered to help me out(NO ONE) when i was begging for an ounce of this shit...
I'll let u know how it works out. I am now down to 5 outta 10 plants. I am going to be suffering big time in a couple months
I hope these 5 make it to the end
I received my Bayers tree and shrub today through Fedex! So to all you Canadians: I ordered this shit through Amazon and it made it to my door in approx. 2 wks after placing order. Bottle was 29.95 and shipping was 35$! So around 70$.
Thanks to all who responded and offered to help me out(NO ONE) when i was begging for an ounce of this shit...
I'll let u know how it works out. I am now down to 5 outta 10 plants. I am going to be suffering big time in a couple months
I hope these 5 make it to the end
Cannasseur
Member
Save yourselves the money and put the Bti (Gnatrol) down...
There's a reason it's having no effect. One of the benefits of Bt for biological control is the fact that the bacterium is very specific in its targets. Each subspecies of bacterium produces a very specific toxin which must bind to specific receptors (like a key in a lock) in the gut of the fungus gnat/white grub/caterpillar (subspecies include israeliensis/popillae/kurstaki/aizawai). These insects are all classified under different orders of linnaean taxonomy. With this being said, each one of these different orders have different physiological characters as far as their digestive system and overall structure..
Bacillus thuringiensis israeliensis targets insects within the order diptera (mosquitos/black flies/fungus gnats). Aphids are Homopterans.
There's a reason it's having no effect. One of the benefits of Bt for biological control is the fact that the bacterium is very specific in its targets. Each subspecies of bacterium produces a very specific toxin which must bind to specific receptors (like a key in a lock) in the gut of the fungus gnat/white grub/caterpillar (subspecies include israeliensis/popillae/kurstaki/aizawai). These insects are all classified under different orders of linnaean taxonomy. With this being said, each one of these different orders have different physiological characters as far as their digestive system and overall structure..
Bacillus thuringiensis israeliensis targets insects within the order diptera (mosquitos/black flies/fungus gnats). Aphids are Homopterans.
LonelyNerd
Member
Yeah, I got that stuff too. Dont use Azatrol on your plants. Leaves a bitter taste. It killed alot of gnats but they came back. I shouldve never done that. I will try Gnatrol, all this shit happened, when i bought a bag of soil infested with root aphids. Im about to ditch that crap, i was doing fine in hydro and coco. Last ditch effort ill use the Gnatrol and Bayer product. Does anybody know if introducing BB/compost tea will help fight the fungi which is feeding the gnats ? thanks this thread made me feel a little better.
Cannasseur
Member
With as many people as there are pouring on the Bti for the wrong uses, I'm surprised we haven't noticed any genetic resistance to the bacteria developing. I really don't mean to offend anyone, but people should start really getting familiar with the products they use.
Refer to my last post on why gnatrol will indefinitely be ineffective on root aphids. If it seems like the populations are suppressed in any amount, you may have yourself both root aphids and gnats.
Refer to my last post on why gnatrol will indefinitely be ineffective on root aphids. If it seems like the populations are suppressed in any amount, you may have yourself both root aphids and gnats.
puff adder
Member
I've gotten root aphids twice now, very bad infestations. Both times I used Bayer Tree and Shrub and both times it has killed the RA completely.
I think that the root aphids cause root death and root rot, and then that attracts fungus gnats. Both times I discovered the RA after noticing the fungus gnats increasing in numbers.
Both times, the Bayer also took care of the fungus gnats. It is very cool to go into my rooms now and not see one single bug of any kind.
I think that the root aphids cause root death and root rot, and then that attracts fungus gnats. Both times I discovered the RA after noticing the fungus gnats increasing in numbers.
Both times, the Bayer also took care of the fungus gnats. It is very cool to go into my rooms now and not see one single bug of any kind.
Budsworth
Member
I wish I had a camera with macros. But I don't.
These pests that I have are very small (maybe slightly smaller than your average spider mite), you can see them on the rooter plugs and in the soil. You can't see them at first glance. However, when I blow on the soil they start moving and it's easy to see them as they are white. They move pretty darn quickly for as small as they are.
I don't see wings. But they've obviously effected my crop. Plants looked great the first ten days of bloom. Then the yellowing started. It has spread to all plants in bloom (not noticing anything in my adjoined veg room). Plants are 30 days in so I'm a bit limited on what I can do.
I gave all the plants 3 treatments (with a day in between each treatment) of Nitrozime as a foliar to try to get them some sort of feeding. That's seemed to help.
I've tried:
Azamax - soil drench...they looked like they enjoyed the bubble bath. I could almost hear them singing as they took a pleasant swim. Did nothing to their population.
Mosquito Dunks - got rid of a very small FG population. So that's good news. Has done nothing to my phantom beastie population though. They don't even seem effected.
Diatomaceous Earth - Left a 1/4 to 1/2 inch on the soil for about 6 days. Didn't water in that time. Once removed and irrigation continued, it became obvious the D.E. did absolutely nothing.
Lowered my Temps - Turned the A/C down to 61. Didn't do anything to the beasties.
I've started using this mixture (which I'm totally skeptical about...as I've already used two of these ingredients): 1Tblsp of SM-90 per gallon of water, 1Tblsp of Azamax per gallon, and a quarter of a mosquito dunk per gallon. This was advised to me by a guy who own a grow shop. I gave them their first drenching of this mixture two nights ago. Plan again tonight.
I hope that works...but I'm pretty doubtful because when I checked last night (24hrs after first treatment) their population seems to have gotten even bigger. For shits and giggles I'll give it two more treatments before I declare this a great big flop.
My mentor grower (who unfortunately was not able to come and look) told me to use the agricultural grade Hydrogen Pyroxide in water as a soil drench. Said it would kill my beneficials and that I would need to re-add them after the H2O2 treatment. I don't know how this will work, but I'm near the end of my rope on this whole ordeal.
So that brings me to my big question:
Are there any "bombs" I can use after this harvest while everything is still in veg. I plan on putting all my soil for the next round in there. Everything that will be involved in the next bloom will be placed in the room when I bomb.
If it's on a nuclear level...fantastic. I just want these little bastards dead and gone. Any suggestions on effective bombs would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you
These pests that I have are very small (maybe slightly smaller than your average spider mite), you can see them on the rooter plugs and in the soil. You can't see them at first glance. However, when I blow on the soil they start moving and it's easy to see them as they are white. They move pretty darn quickly for as small as they are.
I don't see wings. But they've obviously effected my crop. Plants looked great the first ten days of bloom. Then the yellowing started. It has spread to all plants in bloom (not noticing anything in my adjoined veg room). Plants are 30 days in so I'm a bit limited on what I can do.
I gave all the plants 3 treatments (with a day in between each treatment) of Nitrozime as a foliar to try to get them some sort of feeding. That's seemed to help.
I've tried:
Azamax - soil drench...they looked like they enjoyed the bubble bath. I could almost hear them singing as they took a pleasant swim. Did nothing to their population.
Mosquito Dunks - got rid of a very small FG population. So that's good news. Has done nothing to my phantom beastie population though. They don't even seem effected.
Diatomaceous Earth - Left a 1/4 to 1/2 inch on the soil for about 6 days. Didn't water in that time. Once removed and irrigation continued, it became obvious the D.E. did absolutely nothing.
Lowered my Temps - Turned the A/C down to 61. Didn't do anything to the beasties.
I've started using this mixture (which I'm totally skeptical about...as I've already used two of these ingredients): 1Tblsp of SM-90 per gallon of water, 1Tblsp of Azamax per gallon, and a quarter of a mosquito dunk per gallon. This was advised to me by a guy who own a grow shop. I gave them their first drenching of this mixture two nights ago. Plan again tonight.
I hope that works...but I'm pretty doubtful because when I checked last night (24hrs after first treatment) their population seems to have gotten even bigger. For shits and giggles I'll give it two more treatments before I declare this a great big flop.
My mentor grower (who unfortunately was not able to come and look) told me to use the agricultural grade Hydrogen Pyroxide in water as a soil drench. Said it would kill my beneficials and that I would need to re-add them after the H2O2 treatment. I don't know how this will work, but I'm near the end of my rope on this whole ordeal.
So that brings me to my big question:
Are there any "bombs" I can use after this harvest while everything is still in veg. I plan on putting all my soil for the next round in there. Everything that will be involved in the next bloom will be placed in the room when I bomb.
If it's on a nuclear level...fantastic. I just want these little bastards dead and gone. Any suggestions on effective bombs would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you
You can still use Bayer Advanced (photo in gallery) if you work fast.
It is deemed safe to use on food crops from between 7-21 days before consumption.
Imid, the active ingredient, is the only thing that will kill them.
Budsworth
Member
Thank you very much. But which product?
http://www.bayeradvanced.com/find-a-product
They're all called bayer advanced.
i have had great success with Vlok, and Malathon. I make a .80 percent recommended strength solution in a 5 gal bucket, and i dipped my roots in the POISON!
I was running a NFT system, with 16 gutters under 8,ooo. and thought i had the came cal/mag def. that everyone seems to hope for before they find out that they have the "clap" of in door gardening. Although it took mulitiple applications, and it is time consuming to dip each plants root system, but the pests were killed and i did not loose a crop.
I would like to think that if you are growing indoors you can master your environment, and not have to scrap everything. Also, i suggest time in your garden. I do not understand how people get these pests, i personally got lazy and slacked off my preventative measure. When i got new clones i did not wash them, or segregate them.
So time with your growables will always bring rewards, as long as you know what to look for.
good luck
I was running a NFT system, with 16 gutters under 8,ooo. and thought i had the came cal/mag def. that everyone seems to hope for before they find out that they have the "clap" of in door gardening. Although it took mulitiple applications, and it is time consuming to dip each plants root system, but the pests were killed and i did not loose a crop.
I would like to think that if you are growing indoors you can master your environment, and not have to scrap everything. Also, i suggest time in your garden. I do not understand how people get these pests, i personally got lazy and slacked off my preventative measure. When i got new clones i did not wash them, or segregate them.
So time with your growables will always bring rewards, as long as you know what to look for.
good luck
Budsworth
Member
<--- Still a relatively new grower (less than a year). We have added quite a bit of preventative measures since we started. We got mites. Took care of those haven't had them back since. I use mosquito dunks for FG's. They haven't been back since.
This pest is just new to us. Once we figure out how to take care of it and the preventive measures to keep them from coming back, then I can assure you it will become part of our regimen.
And we spend LOTS of time in our room. Our experienced friends might argue that we may spend a little too much time in our garden. But when you're still wet behind the ears, some things go unnoticed.
We use them as learning lessons. We get better with each crop.
Say you wanna just "cut and run" (pun intended)
Say you wanna just "cut and run" (pun intended)
I am going to kill the two mom's left (the only two plants left sadly), but I want to save one of the strains.
There are still little white wormy things that come out when the coco is watered and an occasional flyer or two in the mom tent.
I don't want to risk the bugs coming back since I'm pretty much plant-free at the moment and figure I can just get cuttings and ditch the mom's, clean everything and move on bug-free for sure.
My question:
What is the recommended "dunk dosage" when using the Bayer Complete Insect Control for CUTTINGS.
They will be like a newborn baby and I don't want to kill the cuttings as the mom's will be long gone before I know if the Bayer was too strong or something when I dunked them before putting them in their new coco home for the first time and waiting for their roots to come out.
Any advice would be really appreciated!!! I'm doing this today this morning, so if you are reading this and have a recommendation please give it to me asap!! hehehe!
thanks!!
Say you wanna just "cut and run" (pun intended)
I am going to kill the two mom's left (the only two plants left sadly), but I want to save one of the strains.
There are still little white wormy things that come out when the coco is watered and an occasional flyer or two in the mom tent.
I don't want to risk the bugs coming back since I'm pretty much plant-free at the moment and figure I can just get cuttings and ditch the mom's, clean everything and move on bug-free for sure.
My question:
What is the recommended "dunk dosage" when using the Bayer Complete Insect Control for CUTTINGS.
They will be like a newborn baby and I don't want to kill the cuttings as the mom's will be long gone before I know if the Bayer was too strong or something when I dunked them before putting them in their new coco home for the first time and waiting for their roots to come out.
Any advice would be really appreciated!!! I'm doing this today this morning, so if you are reading this and have a recommendation please give it to me asap!! hehehe!
thanks!!
good to know you can use volck oil as a root dip
volck oil is underrated imo,
its great for mites and kills the eggs too
easy to get and cheap, about $7 for a bottle @ lowes.
Im having some gnats in my flower room and I almost pick up the Volck oil yesterday, I don't want to use Bayer imid product at my late stage of flower becauase
of its systemic properties.
so I bought hotshot brand "kitchen bug killer" with pyrithrens.
its in a an aerosol spray can.
I sprayed the top of the pots and under the pants and theres not a gnat to be seen today, as they hatch I'll just give it a quick spray.
sevin dust is another thing I'm looking at.
I have a can of it and i'm thinking of dusting the top layer of soil
both sevin and pyrethrens are effective and fairly mild as far as poisons go.
