Fungus gnats or WINGED ROOT APHIDS???

[Miraculous Meds]

I found that soaking was harder then I had anticipated. I had about6-8 inches of water in a bin and when I placed the first 5 gallon geopot in it floated and tipped over. Same with my smaller pots too. Once I finished soaking the first few plants for only like 10 mins I did the math and for a 30 minute soak I would have to be there all day holding plants in the water.

What is anyone's process for soaking plants? I don't have a table but I imagine that would help things. Maybe I filled up too much water? Maybe my soil was too dry

I haven't done it before, but it would make sense to me to saturate the medium first then soak. Its should sink right down after that.

Kind of like taking a empty cup and sticking it in dish water and it floats and tips sideways vs filling the cup up with water and watching it sink right to the bottom.

 

[Granger2]

An alternative is to put the pots in good size dishes, water, and keep filling the dishes till the plants stop soaking/drawing it up. This is a one time thing, so babysitting them for a few hours is not all that inconvenient. Or you can top water first, then use a large container to put several plants in, and add just enough water/Mycotrol so they almost start to float. BTW, agitate water/Mycotrol often. Good luck. -granger

 

[EclipseFour20]

A couple of points that might be helpful--

1. Orthene97 (acephate) dosage of 2.3 grams/gallon of water has proven to be effective (2/3 of the original amount)...same with Riptide, 2.5 ml/gallon of water.

2. Riptide (pyrethrin + PBO) is water soluble, contains no oil and was selected over "pyrethrin without PBO". PBO enhances pyrethrin half-life and increases the effectiveness of pyrethrin (bigger punch with lessor amount)--the two work together.

3. The Orthene + Riptide combination provides multiple "modes of operation" and is mostly "contact". The "systemic" features of Orthene is greater when applied as a foliar spray--but very little when applied as a root drench.

4. Acephate has a soil half-life 0.5 to 3 days...unlike Imid, with a "soil half-life" of 26.5-229 days or a "hydro half-life" of 997 days. http://www.cdpr.ca.gov/docs/emon/pubs/fatememo/acephate.pdf

5. Studies have shown Acephate caused no adverse effects to the microherd as it breaks down in soil.https://www.agronomy.org/publications/jeq/abstracts/3/4/JEQ0030040327?access=0&view=pdf

6. Dunking/drenching technique--I found using those jumbo 18 gallon party/ice tubs work great and cheap (multiple dunk stations if necessary). Since soil air porosity is different for everyone, what works for me...may not work 100% for you. That said, here is what I did and learned from my one and only "tip over":
-Using the first container as a "guide", place it the party tub and then add the solution until it begins to "list" but not "tip". Make a note of the fluid level...that is the amount to start with for the rest of the dunks.
-Within a few minutes the bottom of the container should be saturated enough to slowly add more liquid until it almost tips (make a note of that too--that will be your mark for the 2nd pour); wait a few minutes before adding more and you should be able add enough to submerge it.
-A few containers (mostly 3 gallon sized) were "top heavy" and wanted to tip right away. I strategically placed/wedged a few bricks at the bottom of the tub and all was good.
-Elbow length chemical gloves is a must ($10 at Harbor Freight).
-I start counting time once the plant is 100% submerged (20 minutes each) and then quickly lift the saturated container from the tub so it can "drain" (6 gallon buckets work perfectly to catch the runoff from my 5 gallon sized containers). Usually about 3 gallons of fluid will drain...which I toss. Since the Orthene + Riptide cocktail is "affordable", best to add fresh than "strain and reuse" the old.
-Smaller sized containers are best dunked in one at a time "smaller tubs"--when dunking several smaller containers simultaneously...usually results in tip over.
-If you don't have the "perfect" dunking tub, in a pinch double lining a container/box/bucket with heavy duty trash bags will work. I did that when I dunked 1 gallon sized containers.

7. After the treatment let the grow medium dry out a wee bit more than usual and then do what you feel is best to "rebuild roots" and "rebuild soil". So feeding the soil with minerals at half dosage is what I did...but whatever you do...DO NOT feed enzymes (CannaZyme, Hygrozyme, BioCozyme, etc)! My experience was the zymes ate away the damaged roots and stunted the plant.

8. Water soluble ferts (organic or synthetic) or something that becomes "plant available" almost immediately should be the 2nd feeding.

9. Low soil pH seems to be a problem for some...but not all; some have reported a "leaf burn" of sorts following the treatment...something I did not experience.

Successful eradication of RAs is achievable.

Good luck!

 

[Granger2]

To Clarify: When I suggested Pyganic without PBO, that was for an organic course, and just to knock back the RA's in preparation for the Mycotrol. I suggest no PBO so the Nematodes won't be affected.

If someone goes with Eclipse's regime with Orthene and Riptide, I WOULD use a version of Pyrethrum WITH PBO, which Riptide is. But keep in mind that if you want to follow up with todes, you'll need to give it awhile or I fear for the survival of the todes. The PBO lengthens the effectiveness/half-life of the Pyrethrum and probably the Acephate/Orthene. Good luck. -granger

 

[xxxstr8edgexxx]

whats the half life of pbo

To Clarify: When I suggested Pyganic without PBO, that was for an organic course, and just to knock back the RA's in preparation for the Mycotrol. I suggest no PBO so the Nematodes won't be affected.

If someone goes with Eclipse's regime with Orthene and Riptide, I WOULD use a version of Pyrethrum WITH PBO, which Riptide is. But keep in mind that if you want to follow up with todes, you'll need to give it awhile or I fear for the survival of the todes. The PBO lengthens the effectiveness/half-life of the Pyrethrum and probably the Acephate/Orthene. Good luck. -granger

 

[EclipseFour20]

I recall half life for Piperonyl butoxide (PBO) in soil to be less than 5 days with plant tissues showing nominal levels of PBO residual.

 

[Marlo]

Since actually submerging my plants wasn't possible, I shut of my blumats and let the soil dry out.When the soil was dry I saw more bugs crawling around the top of the soil than ever. They were everywhere.

After the first application of Mycotrol, I saw not one bug. The plants seemed unaffected. I watered with plain water a cpl days later. This morning I went to apply another dose of Mycotrol. Again, I let the soil dry out a good bit before applying so they could soak up all the Mycotrol. I saw a small number of RA's crawling around, but it took me a long time to find one. Gonna do another application in 2 days.


On another note..... My entire room looks like shit. All the plants are yellowing like mad. Right up to the leaves in the buds on some branches. Damage started from the bottom up on all the plants.
The interesting thing I noticed is.... The only plant that is completely green and happy is a GG4 that is completely seeded from top to bottom. Then there is a Wifi in the corner. I pollinated one lower branch on this large plant... and guess what, that branch is completely green and healthy also, while every other branch around it is severely yellowing.


Is there something to this? Or all coincidental?

 

[DONAJTHEIII]

People keep getting hit harder and harder with these RA's everytime I stop by this thread huh ?


Are you guys getting them from dirty clones ? or from bags of coco/soil ?


Have we come to the conclusion that compressed coco bricks are safer than bagged coco as they're heat compressed correct ?

A little more work I would say but if the compression of coco keeps them out from the start guess its worth the extra work to save the headache during the grow.


Can see how DWC would be alot easier to control RA's as you can see all the roots and shit and spot a fucker right away compared to coco/soil




AJAE

 

[vegtable]

i got aphids for at least a year now, made all the rookie misteaks, used merritt75 twice now, slows them down but they are such a destructive force, i mean really wow.

trying riptide orthene dunk next, question on orthene i bought granduals do they just disolve in water? never used it before

my infection included 2 ant colonys and flying bastard aphids, gnats thrips some weird solid red mites that didnt web and god knows what elce. i almost think someone sabotauged my closet grow, do bugs get in through window ac units?

i harvested a silver skunk for 2 grams dry this shit is depressing

 

[DONAJTHEIII]

i got aphids for at least a year now, made all the rookie misteaks, used merritt75 twice now, slows them down but they are such a destructive force, i mean really wow.

trying riptide orthene dunk next, question on orthene i bought granduals do they just disolve in water? never used it before

my infection included 2 ant colonys and flying bastard aphids, gnats thrips some weird solid red mites that didnt web and god knows what elce. i almost think someone sabotauged my closet grow, do bugs get in through window ac units?

i harvested a silver skunk for 2 grams dry this shit is depressing

HAHA holy fuck im not going to lie this sounded like one of my first grows lol w/o the 2 gram yield damn !


I didnt know shit about growing almost let alone bugs.


I jacked ppms to 1800-2000 mixing we the fuck i wanted and heres a list of misc. shit I saw :

-yellow mushrooms in my reused coco
-a trail of ants which I thought was funny and cool
-random flying shit
-webs on the bottom of my plants
-some dud plant sites

you name it I swear I saw it that round ahah

well ill tell ya THE ONE THING I DID DO THAT WAS RIGHT :


TRASHED EVERY SINGLE THING FROM THE PLANT TO THE COCO TO THE REALLY NICE SMARTIES I HAD. THREW ALL MY TRASH OUT AND BOMBED THE SHIT OUT MY ROOMS AFTER A CLEANING.

years down the line when I knew bugs pretty well I would always laugh especially how I thought the ants were pretty cool and thought it was funny how they liked my coco. I remember saying " little guys just want a home"

boy Im so happy I never decided to look at the roots of those plants I would have freaked out I almost am positive that RA's were there if I saw ants. I really tossed them because of those yellow mushrooms I saw in the coco lmfao freaked me the fuck out

Anyways...vegetable you need to throw everything out clean your spot really well and throw a bomb or two off depending on your room size.

Next round get some seeds

and get a good Insect Pest Management program going. I usually get the annoying fungus gnats/white flies/mosquitos from my outside vents. A screen has reduced the amount greatly and cost no more than ten bucks. I also throw in No Pest Hot Strips and have sticky traps hanging which catch the couple that usually do get in within a couple of days at most. If your running in soil/coco try a layer of perlite or triple washed sand as a top layer. fliers cant penetrate the coco and lay eggs. Also you need to keep an eye on your medium/rootzone and your topgrowth/leaf zone as their are difft pests. Some lay below and like roots some like to sunbathe on your leaves



from that day forward I knew how impt. sanitation was. I dont get clones any more either that was where most of my problems arose from. will only touch seeds from now on unless I really feel naughty lol

still waiting on some opinions of the bricked coco vs the bagged coco.

are these where people are getting their RA's from or is it the 3rd cloning parties ?

AJAE

 

[vegtable]

again my question for riptide/ orthene combo 20 minute dunk, orthene granduals the right orthene? and can i dunk my unrooted clones

i need to treat for flowing vegging and unrooted clones

if your looking for riptide theres one store selling a 5oz small bottle under 20 bucks,google riptide 5oz i got a half gallon way more than i need hopefully.

 

[EclipseFour20]

IMHO, the unrooted clones should not be dunked in the orthene/riptide--unless that medium is infested with RAs...then if it were me, I would replace them and start "fresh". That said, if I were to dunk them--then it would be in Orthene only-very diluted (like half the suggested rate) without Riptide. I would do a full 100% immersion--allowing the leaves to be treated, letting the systemic feature of Orthene protect the cutting. And it would be a quick 100% immersion...like a 30 second dunk as opposed to 20 minutes.

Yeah, the half gallon Riptide will/should last a long time--but well worth the price. Great all around "house pest" killer too!

Good luck!

 

[Terps]

could these be broad mites or small hypoaspis attacking a fungus gnat?

 

[moses wellfleet]

could these be broad mites or small hypoaspis attacking a fungus gnat?
[URL="https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=57912&pictureid=1354320&thumb=1"]View Image[/URL]

I have heard of broad mites hitching a ride on insect hosts, but those appear to be parasites! Definitely not H. miles which is a soil dweller.

Amazing photo, hopefully somebody can identify the species?

 

[Terps]

caught another four fliers today and three of them have these lil fuckers on them, i'll get some pics up soon. i just hope they're not detrimental to my girls!

 

[moses wellfleet]

Are your plants showings symptoms of broad mite damage?

 

[oceangrownkush]

Found some RA after bringing in a few bags of "Black Gold" brand coco against my better judgement. Fuck Black Gold, I'm 75% sure thats where I got the RA both times.

 

[Terps]

Are your plants showings symptoms of broad mite damage?

not broad mite damage but deffinately root rot damage caused by the fungus gnats. its seems its stopped and the new growth isnt showing sins of damage.

 

[Terps]

heres some snaps of another three fliers i caught, only two had these unidentified mites.

and heres a fungus gnat doing the breast stroke.

 

[StankyBeamer]

Found some RA after bringing in a few bags of "Black Gold" brand coco against my better judgement. Fuck Black Gold, I'm 75% sure thats where I got the RA both times.

This is why my coco will be rinsed with boiling hot water, thanks for the warning. And terps I think those aren fungus gnats in the pic they've all got the same connected torsos, not two distinct sections like a gnat. I think the aphids at my house brought in mites too, I've taken care of the aphids and still see damage and stunting and cannot find any fliers or crawlers, so I'm thinking either broads or parasitic todes caught a ride in on the aphids or gnats I've dealt with in the past year