Fungus gnats or WINGED ROOT APHIDS???

[BlazinPurps]

As far as the SNS goes, I love it and since I can use it a lll the way throughout the plant s life, I will continue to have it on hand and won't hesitate to use it at the sight of ANY new pests of any kind near my plants

I guess everyone has a different situation cause my RA's could have cared less about SNS-203 it had little to no effect for me except smelling good and soaking the soil making my RA's drastically increase in numbers.

 

[sammyz2646]

I guess everyone has a different situation cause my RA's could have cared less about SNS-203 it had little to no effect for me except smelling good and soaking the soil making my RA's drastically increase in numbers.

What up BLAZE? I hear you about the flare ups after SNS treatments. You have a powerful microscopic mass of them inside your plant. Like a lithium battery that just won't quit.
Like I said before, when you are treating with that stuff and the aphids return like they were for you, YOU HAVE 2 options at this point, based on the plant age and where it is in relationship to your harvest.

OPTION 1----------------------- Option 1 is determined by the current lifecycle stage the plant is in. For your garden. Assuming that the plant is too far along to treat with any chemicals, KILL IT AND THROW IT FAR FAR AWAY

OPTION 2-------------------------Assuming the plant hasn't yet started the flowering process, the younger the better, use the previously discussed substances (SPEC/TRI), and then once this initial treatment or 2 depending , THEN START WITH THE SNS-203 and continue at that point to monitor and knockdown the 1st signs of life, be it 1 flier, be it 1 nymph, its SNS time!!!

Do it like this and that product will work and manage things safely and comfortably throughout the plants life up to 3 days before harvest.

I do agree that if not used properly, almost nothing will permanently destroy a bad aphid outbreak. The order of events in your attack is critical for success

 

[Storm Shadow]

If you guys don't want to take the best route (Kontos) you can also use Conserve SC which is a 11% Spinosad.. teaspoon of that shit per gallon drench and spray around the base of the stem...

SNS is such a rip off .... if its Botanical Oils you seek... which are awesome also... this is what you want for $30 and will kill anything and not hurt your plants at all even when they are in flower

http://www.biconet.com/botanicals/infosheets/Essentria_IC3_label.pdf

 

[sammyz2646]

This looks like a fantastic product and I will be ordering it to give it a run. I'm glad there are cheaper options, but yes, these ingredients are perfect! You are wise Storm Shadow, mad respect, THANKS

There are always options and new stuff coming out and I am thankful for this

 

[BlazinPurps]

What up BLAZE? I hear you about the flare ups after SNS treatments. You have a powerful microscopic mass of them inside your plant. Like a lithium battery that just won't quit.
Like I said before, when you are treating with that stuff and the aphids return like they were for you, YOU HAVE 2 options at this point, based on the plant age and where it is in relationship to your harvest.

OPTION 1----------------------- Option 1 is determined by the current lifecycle stage the plant is in. For your garden. Assuming that the plant is too far along to treat with any chemicals, KILL IT AND THROW IT FAR FAR AWAY

OPTION 2-------------------------Assuming the plant hasn't yet started the flowering process, the younger the better, use the previously discussed substances (SPEC/TRI), and then once this initial treatment or 2 depending , THEN START WITH THE SNS-203 and continue at that point to monitor and knockdown the 1st signs of life, be it 1 flier, be it 1 nymph, its SNS time!!!

Do it like this and that product will work and manage things safely and comfortably throughout the plants life up to 3 days before harvest.

I do agree that if not used properly, almost nothing will permanently destroy a bad aphid outbreak. The order of events in your attack is critical for success

I agree with a lot of what you are saying however as far as only having two options I will respectfully disagree. Every bit of my soil is DE amended and the clones were originally planted in DE amended soil. DE may have not worked for you but its working miracles for me. SNS on the other hand did almost nothing for me could be I used it wrong could be you used DE wrong I couldn't tell you why I am just observing what is happening. I am a month into veg and am having great success controlling them. After this grow I am starting from clones again I do not plan on trying to continue to fight these guys its a losing battle as far as I am concerned. I will continue to update how my grow turns out for good or bad with this strategy

 

[Pepe le skunk]

The only consistent thing I have had with every infestation was Fox Farm Ocean Forest Soil.

then I switched to a Happy Frog/ Ocean Forest mix and boom I am infested. I will never use Fox Farm Ocean forest again and I will be sterilizing all of my soil in the oven from now on.

Same here with the FFOF. The soil is where I believe they came from and how I got infected. Was looking at cooking the soil and read about 200 degrees for 30 minutes in the oven covered with aluminum foil and a dash of water to help steam them. But am worried about the smell inside so looking at barbacue grill as option one. There is also Electric Soil Sterilizers. These are the best pricing I have found. http://www.gothicarchgreenhouses.com/soil-sterilizer.htm

http://www.aaagreenhouse.com/soil_sterilizers2.php

Hard to believe more people don't have problems with RA's and that FF doesn't sterilize there soil. Am at the final week in flower that is why was using the Nuke em in flower. Azamax didn't work at week 3 of flower and only slowed them down. RA's suck.
Here is strawberry diesel at 8 weeks.

 

[sammyz2646]

I agree with a lot of what you are saying however as far as only having two options I will respectfully disagree. Every bit of my soil is DE amended and the clones were originally planted in DE amended soil. DE may have not worked for you but its working miracles for me. SNS on the other hand did almost nothing for me could be I used it wrong could be you used DE wrong I couldn't tell you why I am just observing what is happening. I am a month into veg and am having great success controlling them. After this grow I am starting from clones again I do not plan on trying to continue to fight these guys its a losing battle as far as I am concerned. I will continue to update how my grow turns out for good or bad with this strategy

Glad to hear the DE is helping you bro! Everyone's conditions and scenario's vary of course. Wishing you the best of luck!

 

[BlazinPurps]

Glad to hear the DE is helping you bro! Everyone's conditions and scenario's vary of course. Wishing you the best of luck!

You too my friend

 

[BlazinPurps]

Same here with the FFOF. The soil is where I believe they came from and how I got infected. Was looking at cooking the soil and read about 200 degrees for 30 minutes in the oven covered with aluminum foil and a dash of water to help steam them. But am worried about the smell inside so looking at barbacue grill as option one. There is also Electric Soil Sterilizers. These are the best pricing I have found. http://www.gothicarchgreenhouses.com/soil-sterilizer.htm

http://www.aaagreenhouse.com/soil_sterilizers2.php

Hard to believe more people don't have problems with RA's and that FF doesn't sterilize there soil. Am at the final week in flower that is why was using the Nuke em in flower. Azamax didn't work at week 3 of flower and only slowed them down. RA's suck.
Here is strawberry diesel at 8 weeks.

Nice idea on using the barbecue I was wondering about the smell also. Next round all my soil will be sterilized. I agree I am also surprised more people do not have problems with RA's in FFOF, perhaps this threads title explains it most people assume they are fungus gnats? I know thats what my first thought was. Thanks to everyone that has contributed to this thread it has been a huge help to me!

 

[Hmong]

If you are just now finding out that you have RA's and have never had them before, Prepare to start a new relationship with you garden. A different, closer and more intimate relationship

hahaha love that quote! a 100% real talk

 

[sammyz2646]

hahaha love that quote! a 100% real talk

LOL , I always try and be real... No bs n'!!!! But thanks

 

[SpiderMite]

Hey, what's up guys. First day posting here at icmag. Running my second recent grow but been growing on and off for years. Anyway, I have root aphids (got them on the last round) pretty sure it was also from FFOF. I do have winged aphids...

Just wanted to add a monitoring tip to what Sammy said. I use Duct tape laid on the tent floor adhesive side up, they are attracted to something in the adhesive. It is the easiest way I have found to monitor them. The moat is an awsome idea too, I might try that but I have like 15 plants in there and that would be much work.

Anyway, I just did a dunk with 203, homemade rosemary oil, and some soap about 2 days ago. The ladies didn't like it at all but I think they will recover fine. I am 3 weeks into flower so I know I could be screwed here but I am giving it a shot. Will be shutting down after this for the summer.

Any ideas on additional treatments to help me get through the next 5 weeks would be great. I was thinking nematodes in about a week so the 203 doesn't effect them as much.

Peace,

 

[sammyz2646]

Spidermite!? I like the name, and welcome to IC mag


If the RA's persist and you can't stand it anymore, get those damn fliers contained 1st, then onto the moat subject, it would be very inexpensive to go buy a few trays, (white) , and create your moat, shop vac up the excess water, if any. AND REMOVE THE SHOP VAC FROM YOUR ROOMS AFTER SUCKING UP CONTAMINATED WATER WITH DEAD APHIDS IN IT . It kind of depends on your grow medium too. Add fresh water to the tray if it dries up, to maintain an inescapable area, for crawling nymphs.

I am sorry to hear about any plant trauma you have experienced, and I commend you for using homemade botanicals, but, using the SNS and ONLY the SNS will put you into a guaranteed safe plant health scenario, from my experiences, as we are not scientists. Most of these mixtures are carefully concocted not to damage our plants, and for me, it seems to do no damage to any plant except very very very young clones, maybe

I would double the 203 mixture to 6 fl oz. per gallon, it won't hurt anything

I am also looking forward to using the oil that Storm shadow mentioned earlier. I am waiting for it to arrive. Tough to give it a real test as my aphid problem is gone, FOR NOW
I never assume they are gone forever, as I have done so many times before. 3 months and counting!!! I will continue to treat with botanicals , just to be damn sure


Best of luck to you sir, Sammy

 

[Shoots]

Hey sammy how come all the info i have found on sns 203 and root aphids seems to not work for anyone. I tried a few different products before I went nuclear on the RA's Yes my plants suffered but I expected that. I needed something that wiped them out once and done.

I am just wondering what is making your sns 203 treatments successful. is it the moat?

Not bashing your style bro honestly I wanted to keep it organic but there came a point when enough was enough and the sns or any other natural product was not cutting it.

 

[sammyz2646]

So its not cost effective to treat at double strength as a total root submersion with the 203, I have deducted. Therefore, like I mentioned before, I would use DOUBLE STRENGTH or maybe even a bit more, as a root drench @ 6 fl oz. per gal, (NOT DUNK), pouring slowly, until you have achieved a nice runoff. Filling a giant container is NOT a good choice with a fairly expensive product at double strength

Keep in mind that IF you are in flower, and you are badly infested, meaning flyers all over, etc,
I would recommend either sacrificing these plants or using another product

The ONLY use for that moat is to contain the nymphs at a certain life phase of the aphids, and if you get behind the ball in that avenue, the moat becomes 100% in-effective

 

[Shoots]

Ok well I will keep this information for future reference and try it out.
Thanks for the quick reply.

Do you have a journal?>

shoots

 

[sammyz2646]

No problem,

I do not do any journals

I will also add this: IF, your in veg and you have fliers and nymphs crawling around everywhere, forget the SNS at this stage. I personally find that using SPECTRACIDE TRIAZICIDE @ MORE than double what folks discussed way earlier in this discussion.. I use it as a root dunk @ 1.5 fl oz per GALLON with no ill effects. NO FLUSHING POST TREATMENT

It is cheap enough to setup the root DUNK scenario with this product to get the aphids knocked down to a manageable stage to CONTINUE with the SNS 203 AFTER the chemical treatment. USE GLOVES AND A MASK!!!! A good mask that protects you from breathing this too much

I honestly believe that even this is not a guarantee that you are safe, and I highly recommend that you continue to treat with the botanicals all the way through flower say every 7 days or so, always watching our MOAT if you went that route for the 1st signs of life which are USUALLY nymphs and can be easily contained at this point with careful monitoring and SNS


I will finish by saying that this is simply what has worked for ME and I am simply trying to help people avoid the nightmare of month after month of torture trying the NATURAL knockdowns that never seemed to work, for me

I know there are numerous way to skin a cat, but there are 5000 ways to screw it up

Hopefully this information can be somewhat useful to even 1 person, than I have succeeded. And I know if you stay on protocol, this is effective.
Maybe not the cheapest but, when you have few other options, I wanted anything to assist me in this battle, so no whining about $$$!!!!

 

[buttbrain]

Maybe check into Spinosad (spell) stuff works on thrips..mites and who knows what else.
bbrain

 

[Granger2]

First, soak container/medium in 10 ml/gal Cedarcide PCO Choice for 30 mins with fluid level above medium, followed by water flush. Area spray Cedarcide at 30-60 ml/gal on walls, floor, doors, entire container incl bottoms. Use root stim till week 6 bloom. Water to runoff with OGBioWar foliar and root at 4 tsp/gal of each, every other week. Apply FRESH Nematodes [Heterorabditis, S. carpocapsae] at weeks 2 & 5 of bloom. Todes in fridge not viable after 10 days. Monitor and kill some flyers with Yellow Sticky Traps. Good luck. -granger

http://www.cedarcide.com/
http://www.buglogical.com/

 

[Shoots]

I already took the plunge and treated with orthene three weeks ago and followed up with spec/tri spot spray for the adult flyers following the dunk for a few days. It decimated the little bastards.

I haven't seen any movement at all and I have been looking close. with a loupe and scope.

My plants also took a hit pretty hard though. Nothing I wasn't expecting.

Thanks again