B
BAKED_BEANZ
lots of offering of help here , great to see .
threads rocking
threads rocking
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Fireknot farm 2016
- Thread starter _tessarecting
- Start date
_tessarecting
ஓ
Agreed Beanz, super grateful, thank you everyone, I am getting those books now (if I can find free .pdfs) and will head down to the hardware store to see if I can find a gallon bucket and will report back when I have both weights.
I see one issue with this, however. My scale reads up to 1000g and I cant afford to buy another one right now. Is this going to be an issue? Would a half gallon work too?
I see one issue with this, however. My scale reads up to 1000g and I cant afford to buy another one right now. Is this going to be an issue? Would a half gallon work too?
leadsled
Member
No, not an issue. I had the same problem with the scale, mine does not have the capacity to weigh a gallon of soil wet or dry.
So I then filled the gallon bucket, made 10 little piles and then weighted each and then added them up to get the gallon weight.
Later realized would have been easier to do what you propose.
Yes, Even easier to weigh a 1/2 gallon or a 1/4 gallon and then do the math to add up to one gallon.
More work, but worth it ime.
_tessarecting
ஓ
Couple questions:
I've been drying 1/2 qt of soil for 3 days both in the sun and in front of a fan constantly. Even mixed it up with a screwdriver. Seems to hold water pretty well. When exactly will this constitute as fully dry? I took a measurement of wet weight after it had drained fully.
Will I be able to use the coots for vegging in 5/7 gals or is it flower/mounds only?
Edit here are pics, as you can see there is still condensation, I should just dry this in pyrex in the oven huh? Edit2 I'm going to do that now.
I've been drying 1/2 qt of soil for 3 days both in the sun and in front of a fan constantly. Even mixed it up with a screwdriver. Seems to hold water pretty well. When exactly will this constitute as fully dry? I took a measurement of wet weight after it had drained fully.
Will I be able to use the coots for vegging in 5/7 gals or is it flower/mounds only?
Edit here are pics, as you can see there is still condensation, I should just dry this in pyrex in the oven huh? Edit2 I'm going to do that now.
F
fisher
hey tess
in my opinion ,
the first test... , first thing seems to be extremely high in potassium and sodium , and lower calcium. this could lead to immunity health issues later in the seaon. if it were me, id add the needed calcium and over the season use a tainio product, ( biological ),
used in agriculture and remediation to bring those k and na levels down. its spectrum extra from tainio products in washington state.i think with 6%sodium and 17 % k that could be good . my work says your calcium should be about 5000 ilb/ac . you have 3500
. id not use dolomite, but adding back agricultural or calcitic lime, would be, 1500 divided by .35( %acual calcium in lime) = 4.28 kg lime per 100 square feet. .. edit 4.28kg lime per 100 sq ft at 6" deep or 50 cubic feet of soil, i hope you catch that.
for your traces, can anyone comment , did we find a good level to set them at in these light potting mixes
.was it half ? boron , copper and manganese all are low from a soil point of view. black lake organics are a good place to get smaller amounts of individual traces,
anyways hope this is helpfull. if it is , you want, ill get back to the second test.
in my opinion ,
the first test... , first thing seems to be extremely high in potassium and sodium , and lower calcium. this could lead to immunity health issues later in the seaon. if it were me, id add the needed calcium and over the season use a tainio product, ( biological ),
used in agriculture and remediation to bring those k and na levels down. its spectrum extra from tainio products in washington state.i think with 6%sodium and 17 % k that could be good . my work says your calcium should be about 5000 ilb/ac . you have 3500
. id not use dolomite, but adding back agricultural or calcitic lime, would be, 1500 divided by .35( %acual calcium in lime) = 4.28 kg lime per 100 square feet. .. edit 4.28kg lime per 100 sq ft at 6" deep or 50 cubic feet of soil, i hope you catch that.
for your traces, can anyone comment , did we find a good level to set them at in these light potting mixes
.was it half ? boron , copper and manganese all are low from a soil point of view. black lake organics are a good place to get smaller amounts of individual traces,
anyways hope this is helpfull. if it is , you want, ill get back to the second test.
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_tessarecting
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Thanks, im currently slowly working thru the intelligent gardener, am I understanding you right here you reccommend EITHER Spectrum Extra (is this foliar?) OR ammending ag/calcitic lime correct? Not both?
Cootz is all good all the time.
Currently have half my full term teens veggin in it, the other half are two full trays about to get transplanted into cootz once I see roots...heck it's just awesome
Currently have half my full term teens veggin in it, the other half are two full trays about to get transplanted into cootz once I see roots...heck it's just awesome
F
fisher
hey tess
intelligent gardener is good place to start
both, you need the lime to make calcium more dominant in your soil how it should be,
and the spectrum will help reduce the sodium. you need to balance by bringing levels of sodium and potassium down while increasing the calcium. definatly dont add ammendments high na or k . although chemistry is only one part of good growing,
creating a good tilth or habitat for biology will do a lot regardless of chemistry.
call tainio and tell them of your high sodium and potasium. they are very helpfull and have amazing biological products. the spectrum is used in the soil , it is biology that will work on balancing the chemistry excesses
intelligent gardener is good place to start
both, you need the lime to make calcium more dominant in your soil how it should be,
and the spectrum will help reduce the sodium. you need to balance by bringing levels of sodium and potassium down while increasing the calcium. definatly dont add ammendments high na or k . although chemistry is only one part of good growing,
creating a good tilth or habitat for biology will do a lot regardless of chemistry.
call tainio and tell them of your high sodium and potasium. they are very helpfull and have amazing biological products. the spectrum is used in the soil , it is biology that will work on balancing the chemistry excesses
_tessarecting
ஓ
You've shed insight on my soil, it is greatly appreciated, I think I just read how to convert 100 square ft into yards in the book, I will work on figuring that out.
Thanks Jointed, looks like tomorrow I need to do some transplanting.
After drying the soil in the oven it came out to:
1,694.4g dry
3,502.4g wet
/gallon
Thanks Jointed, looks like tomorrow I need to do some transplanting.
After drying the soil in the oven it came out to:
1,694.4g dry
3,502.4g wet
/gallon
F
fisher
tess
me recommending lime for the calcium would have been a mistake, as it would have driven the ph too high.
logans recommendations to use gypsum is the better choice for calcium, the extra sulfer will help the sodium and k.
my bad fisher out
me recommending lime for the calcium would have been a mistake, as it would have driven the ph too high.
logans recommendations to use gypsum is the better choice for calcium, the extra sulfer will help the sodium and k.
my bad fisher out
_tessarecting
ஓ
Ok, I still have no idea how to interpret the number they gave me. I'll try to finish that book today.
leadsled
Member
I agree about your comment.
What is the point of a paying for recommendation if you can not understand the results. Just another test to decipher?
Edit: Saw the weight posted. Will repost amendments based on weight.
Reposted weight is here:
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=7407412&postcount=327
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_tessarecting
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Thank you! I feel like I am beginning to understand my soil and what I will need to do to balance it.
Do you foliar raw Mn, or is there a product you recommend? I've been told calcium25 is good for foliar calcium.
In regards to efficiancy: will I be able to ammend this into each two yard mound after hauling it up to my garden with a skid steer, or is there a better way?
Do you foliar raw Mn, or is there a product you recommend? I've been told calcium25 is good for foliar calcium.
In regards to efficiancy: will I be able to ammend this into each two yard mound after hauling it up to my garden with a skid steer, or is there a better way?
very nice.
albion ca is good stuff from what i have read. im goin to pick some up soon . tessarecting do you have RO water for foliar? what will you use to spray
leadsled any chance you can pop in my thread and help out with my soil test results / amendments too? i will repost the test if you want just let me know
albion ca is good stuff from what i have read. im goin to pick some up soon . tessarecting do you have RO water for foliar? what will you use to spray
leadsled any chance you can pop in my thread and help out with my soil test results / amendments too? i will repost the test if you want just let me know
leadsled
Member
Your soil is 40% lighter than the soil weight used on the soil test.
1,694 grams / 454 = 3.73 lbs per gallon.
100 square foot is 11.111 square yards.
_tessarecting
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Did I dry it out too much in the oven? I thought thats how they did it at the lab.
I have RO, an atomizer, might just use a pump and spray nozzle
I have RO, an atomizer, might just use a pump and spray nozzle
