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Dud Identification Collective Knowledge.

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redlaser

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If you are only treating for broad mites and have large plants, heated air makes more sense than hot water. But if you wanted to treat for both broad mites and nematodes (about ten different) 111 degree water is listed as effective. Different sources list different temperatures for hot water but all I've seen caution you to use a test on a small sample to see how they tolerate it. Would you call your single treatment with hot water conclusive in and of itself without trying other temps? I guess I can understand if your only using large plants, but for cuttings 111 degree water is a no brainer for me. Ideal for starting mum mom's free of b.m.'s and nematodes.
If you do some reading on hot water dips, you will see that a number of different temperatures are mentioned, from 111 to 118. Depends who you want to listen to. I tried it once to kill broad mites at about 113-115, and it messed up the plants, so I moved to hot air. Anyway, try dipping fully grown plants in hot water. Not gonna work. You would need a giant garbage pail of hot water, and you would need to keep the temps constant, and they will look like spinach when they come out. Nematodes aren't broad mites, so there's no correlation. Hot air works well on Bms, even in flower, and kills BMs in the room as well.
 

stasis

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BM's can be beat, this cut brought BMs to my garden a year ago. Was down to 4 plants out of 80. BM's can be beat, but it takes a while, and lots of attention to detail.

Triple Diesel above
 

jw23ck11

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Not normal
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Most of the buds do foxtail a bit, but these seem more knuckly and grew more round like a gorilla knuckle. Only 1 plant of 5 under the light did this, the rest are normal, in fact a lot bigger.

Normal
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Have not cut the normal looking ones yet. They are all fed the same and silica used the whole grow.
 

whatthe215

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Wow what a long thread we have here. One question that I have is this…. does it spread from one plant to another? I grow from seed until just recently and picked up a few cuts from cloneville seattle. Dipped them in avid three times so no bugs that I am aware of. Looked OK under flourecents but under halides they had a yellow look and slow growth. Last time I saw something like this was when I had a vinyl sump liner in the mid 80's and the vinyl was toxic. Grow in soil and haven't seen this since then.

So three duds and 4 perfectly healthy plants all grown exactly the same. I can put up pictures if anyone wants to see.

It seems what I have is not the same as what you guys have….. they went into the compost but I did snap a photo. Now if they were duds because of some bug wouldn't it spread to all of the plants eventually?

If it's the same guys that own the Los Angeles 'cloneville' than yeah those plants are duds.

The pest that causes dudding (IMO) is nematodes which are microscopic (even smaller than Broadmites) and hide very well.

I would ditch the cuts, pop seeds, and select my own moms if I were you. Good luck man.
 

xxxstr8edgexxx

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i would agree that a handful of anecdotal positive ids amounts to not much more than a rumor. only two of the photo-documented. however, the pics did convince me along side the description of the dd's life cycle and behavior. it was an impressively elaborate hoax if its fake. lol. not that thats the only way it could prove false. groups of people can get stuck on a wrong answer, as we've seen, yours truly included.
the main dilemma im seeing with proving this is or not is no one is showing up with any tests. theres been a small handful reported on here all were negative minus a few root diseases.
has any one tried ridomil gold as a treatment and had it still persist. im guessing it has but i thought id ask. the idea that this could be more than one causes or groups of causes cant be ruled out.
im wanting to see more tests from folks.
it seems like the most likely of currently known or assumed variables.

chitosan asprin and kontos sounds like they are working. the first two of those acceptable on organic and the third at least acceptable by current standards here in the states on vegetable starts.
 

iTarzan

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Storm did you use crab shell for the chitosan? Did you put chitosan in the soil? I searched your post but didn't see the exact substance or way of application.

I now have insect frass and powdered crab and lobster shell to put in the soil.

I also have nemastop for root nematodes and actinovate for fusarium.

Am I on the right course?
 

VenturaHwy

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If it's the same guys that own the Los Angeles 'cloneville' than yeah those plants are duds.

The pest that causes dudding (IMO) is nematodes which are microscopic (even smaller than Broadmites) and hide very well.

I would ditch the cuts, pop seeds, and select my own moms if I were you. Good luck man.

Thanks whatthe215. The cloneville in Seattle says they are sister to the cloneville in cali so they may have the same cuts not sure. I did chop the 3 that were looking ugly but 4 are perfect so I'll keep an eye on them.

The three that were ugly were the GSC, the sour diesel and the white fire, those got chopped. I have a real stretchy star dawg a more indica XXX OG and a snoops dream that are growing real fast and don't seem to be affected at all.
 

Storm Shadow

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http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25261892

J Chem Ecol. 2014 Oct;40(10):1099-109. doi: 10.1007/s10886-014-0504-3. Epub 2014 Sep 28.
Stem nematode counteracts plant resistance of aphids in alfalfa, medicago sativa.

Ramirez RA1, Spears LR.
Author information


  • 1Department of Biology, Utah State University, 5305 Old Main Hill, Logan, UT, 84322, USA, [email protected].


Abstract

Plants are exploited by a diverse community of insect herbivores and phytopathogens that interact indirectly through plant-mediated interactions. Generally, plants are thought to respond to insects and pathogens through different defensive signaling pathways. As plants are selected for resistance to one phytophagous organism type (insect vs. pathogen) in managed systems, it is not clear how this selection may affect community interactions. This study examined the effect of nematode-resistant varieties on aphid (Acyrthosiphon pisum) suppression, and then determined how infection by the stem nematode, Ditylenchus dipsaci, mediated ecological effects on aphids and on plant defense proteins. Four alfalfa (Medicago sativa) varieties were selected with resistance to nematodes only (+,-), aphids only (-,+), nematodes and aphids (+,+), and susceptibility to nematodes and aphids (-,-). Field and greenhouse experiments were conducted to isolate the effect of nematode infection and aphid abundance on each variety. We found that varieties resistant to nematode, regardless of aphid resistance, had the lowest aphid counts, suggesting possible cross-resistance. Aphid abundance, however, increased when plants were exposed to nematodes. Resistant varieties were associated with elevated saponins but these compounds were not affected by insect or pathogen feeding. Concentrations of peroxidases and trypsin inhibitors, however, were increased in nematode resistant varieties when exposed to nematodes and aphids, respectively. The patterns of plant defense were variable, and a combination of resistance traits and changes in nutrient availability may drive positive interactions between nematodes and aphids aboveground.
 

xxxstr8edgexxx

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barely, to the extent that it practically isnt. correct me if im wrong but thats what the literature i read says. S.A., and id guess aspirin too is soluble in certain solvents as whatthe215 mentioned already. my question is when dissolved in solvents does it then percipitate out of solution when the ratio of solvent reaches a low enough ratio to water like when you add it to rez. how do people keep asprin in solution a slurry used immediately would probably work but just added to a rez im imagnining it would fall out as soon as you stopped agitating it.
 

Miraculous Meds

Well-known member
barely, to the extent that it practically isnt. correct me if im wrong but thats what the literature i read says. S.A., and id guess aspirin too is soluble in certain solvents as whatthe215 mentioned already. my question is when dissolved in solvents does it then percipitate out of solution when the ratio of solvent reaches a low enough ratio to water like when you add it to rez. how do people keep asprin in solution a slurry used immediately would probably work but just added to a rez im imagnining it would fall out as soon as you stopped agitating it.

I mixed it in the res and let the pump cycle right away. there still was a buildup of it on the bottom of the res. Once a day I would stir in and cycle the pump to infuse some of it and make sure the plants were getting a little every day.
 
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