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Tutorial DIY STS Mixing/Using Guide for Feminized Pollen/Seeds R.C.Clarke Method as Base
- Thread starter Douglas.Curtis
- Start date
Regarding Q2, yes, STS works on ACE gear, successfully reversed Yunnan, Panama, and PanamaxDestroyer clones by using the [FONT="]sigma aldrich formula (diluted with distilled water). [/FONT] MJ is MJ, I don't think who breeds the plant will make any difference on the effectiveness of STS.
edit:Technique was to spray the nodes of a rooted clone right before lights off several days before flip, at flip, and maybe one more time a few days later. Then be patient young Jedi. I flower the reversed clones in the same tent, so I monitor the male flowers right after lights on and right before lights off. When I see a ripe pod (yellow and split, or yellow and bulging but not yet split, I pluck them with a tweezers, place in a small bowl to dry for a couple days, then grind the dried bananas in a fine sieve over another dish. Put mother under an active vent hood, cover the mother with a bag but with a branch extended, apply pollen and let sit for 1 hour, then spray the pollinated branch with water, remove the bag, put the mom back in the tent. Repeat as necessary.
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Douglas.Curtis
Autistic Diplomat in Training
I stored some mixed solution for over a year in a refridgerator, in a brown bottle with black plastic spray top, with a black trash bag double layered and taped around it.
As long as the solution is still clear and not tinted brown, I'm guessing it works just fine.
I sprayed my test plant too often and it looked awful while still producing pollen sacks.
TychoMonolyth
Boreal Curing
I had some mixed for 9 months in a basement cupboard. Still worked.
Both solution should last more than a year if you store it properly.
Both solution should last more than a year if you store it properly.
Happy Times
Well-known member
Hi All
Didn’t have time yet to read the whole thread so apologies if this info was already posted.
I was hoping to take the lazy persons approach and buy some STS to use rather than mixing it up myself. Anyone have recommendations on best source or vendor?
A buddy found a really nice NYCD out of Soma seed stock and it tastes soooo unique I gotta try some seed preservation on it.
Also, I got it as a clone and it’s in the backyard, in semi-flower mode right now, guessing it’s shooting hairs a little early like clones sometimes do. Any suggestions on best time to apply it? With the days getting shorter and the cooler nights as or recently I was figuring it’s about close to time.
Didn’t have time yet to read the whole thread so apologies if this info was already posted.
I was hoping to take the lazy persons approach and buy some STS to use rather than mixing it up myself. Anyone have recommendations on best source or vendor?
A buddy found a really nice NYCD out of Soma seed stock and it tastes soooo unique I gotta try some seed preservation on it.
Also, I got it as a clone and it’s in the backyard, in semi-flower mode right now, guessing it’s shooting hairs a little early like clones sometimes do. Any suggestions on best time to apply it? With the days getting shorter and the cooler nights as or recently I was figuring it’s about close to time.
RizlaMan
Active member
I have more questions on technique:
I understand that ideally the treatment schedule is once 5-7 days before flipping to 12/12, once the day before/of flipping to 12/12, and once 5-7 days after flipping to 12/12.
This is great for indoor with known female clones or plants from feminized seed.
However, suppose one wished to use this technique on outdoor plants, some of which were feminized and some of which were not.
Also, suppose the plants were from strains none of which you knew the photoperiod that triggers their flowering or, consequently, the date at which they begin flowering at the latitude where they are.
1) Could one spray as soon as the first pistils are seen, 5-7 days thereafter, and possibly again 5-7 days after that and expect to achieve the desired results?
2) Furthermore, if one did not spray the aforementioned outdoor plants until a few days after the first pistils appeared then repeated 5-7 days later and possibly again 5-7 days later, could one expect to achieve the desired results?
Thanks
I understand that ideally the treatment schedule is once 5-7 days before flipping to 12/12, once the day before/of flipping to 12/12, and once 5-7 days after flipping to 12/12.
This is great for indoor with known female clones or plants from feminized seed.
However, suppose one wished to use this technique on outdoor plants, some of which were feminized and some of which were not.
Also, suppose the plants were from strains none of which you knew the photoperiod that triggers their flowering or, consequently, the date at which they begin flowering at the latitude where they are.
1) Could one spray as soon as the first pistils are seen, 5-7 days thereafter, and possibly again 5-7 days after that and expect to achieve the desired results?
2) Furthermore, if one did not spray the aforementioned outdoor plants until a few days after the first pistils appeared then repeated 5-7 days later and possibly again 5-7 days later, could one expect to achieve the desired results?
Thanks
It doesn't matter if the female you are trying to reverse was from a fem seed or was from a batch of regular seeds, the STS will work just fine.
Q1) Yes
Q2) Yes
Just monitor and be prepared to re-apply one more time if the reversals are not taking, then wait again.
RizlaMan
Active member
Boreal Seeds sells prepared STS through their website. This is a Canadian based company. Great trustworthy people.
https://www.borealseeds.com/tools/sts.php
No offense to you cvh, but $175 for a micro-bottle of STS? Sheeze! For sure I am not ever buying anything from Boreal seeds just on principle alone...talk about reaming the uneducated segment of their customer base.
Then again, maybe the price includes a bj (apologies for being crude), a streak dinner, and a dessert cigar...
SuperBadGrower
Active member
Thanks for the tip. Gonna order me some more SN and TS
Look for it on the shelves as $T$
Look for it on the shelves as $T$
Happy Times
Well-known member
FYI I found some on the good ol Amazon
Fingers crossed! My first time trying a reversal, that NYCD pheno is unique enough for my sensimilla-loving lazy ass to give it a shot! A little worried about seeding the heck out of everything but I’ll do my best to be careful. She’s in a pot so maybe I could distance her a bit if needed
PS thank you to those who PMed on this
Fingers crossed! My first time trying a reversal, that NYCD pheno is unique enough for my sensimilla-loving lazy ass to give it a shot! A little worried about seeding the heck out of everything but I’ll do my best to be careful. She’s in a pot so maybe I could distance her a bit if needed
PS thank you to those who PMed on this
Douglas.Curtis
Autistic Diplomat in Training
Pollen control is ideal, since it's amazing how little it takes to seed an entire plant.
- Isolate the pollen producer(s) if at all possible. I like to use small, filtered air, micro-boxes. This way the air coming in and going out has zero pollen in it. Everything is contained within the box. The "Micro Grow" sub-forum has massive amounts of information on boxes like I use.
- Pollen germinates and becomes 'dead' when it comes in contact with water. You can turn off all the fans, or move a plant to a spot with little to no air movement. Pollinate a branch or two, wait 30-45 minutes and spray the plant down thoroughly to kill any remaining pollen. Shake, dry and put back with the other plants.
- If you can see pollen, there are thousands of individual bits of pollen in that speck you can see. A little goes a long way.
- Isolate the pollen producer(s) if at all possible. I like to use small, filtered air, micro-boxes. This way the air coming in and going out has zero pollen in it. Everything is contained within the box. The "Micro Grow" sub-forum has massive amounts of information on boxes like I use.
- Pollen germinates and becomes 'dead' when it comes in contact with water. You can turn off all the fans, or move a plant to a spot with little to no air movement. Pollinate a branch or two, wait 30-45 minutes and spray the plant down thoroughly to kill any remaining pollen. Shake, dry and put back with the other plants.
- If you can see pollen, there are thousands of individual bits of pollen in that speck you can see. A little goes a long way.
P...it's amazing how little it takes to seed an entire plant....A little goes a long way.
This is why I like to reverse small rooted clones and not fully vegged plants.
I recently took 7 batches of pollen sacs off over the last week. The first batch had 5 sacs, and the last batch had around 10 sacs.
The clone ended up with one main cluster maybe 5 cm long, and I could have taken more than 10 more batches if I let it go.
I did 3 rounds of pollination on several small buds on 3 plants with the first 3 batches of pollen, and I have 4 batches more to save for later.
As a comparison to the $175 10 ml STS bottle that Boreal is selling, I used maybe 5 ml of diluted STS solution, which probably wasn't more than $3 worth of materials, including the small 1oz spray bottle.
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Hey you all.
Posting some information and updates on the pollination. It seems it was successful based on the 2 photos I am about to post.
This photo is a bud site where pollen was deposited. The pistils have changed to a light brown and appear to be shrivelled.
This photo showed one of the 4 bud sites I missed and were not pollinated. Now I can tell something changed by looking at this one.
Cheers mates.
Posting some information and updates on the pollination. It seems it was successful based on the 2 photos I am about to post.
This photo is a bud site where pollen was deposited. The pistils have changed to a light brown and appear to be shrivelled.
This photo showed one of the 4 bud sites I missed and were not pollinated. Now I can tell something changed by looking at this one.
Cheers mates.
nice work [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]weedeasy.
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Douglas.Curtis
Autistic Diplomat in Training
Sweet!
^I zoomed in your pictures.
This picture tells me it's possibly a reaction to the STS you have sprayed on. It's very localised.
You can see that the tips of the leaves are still correct but the inner most parts towards the stems are discoloured.
Also I see it only on the flower regions.
This picture tells me it's possibly a reaction to the STS you have sprayed on. It's very localised.
You can see that the tips of the leaves are still correct but the inner most parts towards the stems are discoloured.
Also I see it only on the flower regions.
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