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DIY Nutrients formulations, recipes, chemistry etc.

whodare

Active member
Veteran
i was wondering the same thing...

would calcium citrate Ca3(C6H5O7)2 work?

from wiki

Calcium citrate is an odorless white powder soluble in cold water.
Calcium makes up 21% of calcium citrate by weight.

i dont know what C6H5O7 is though...
 
wiki CaO

basically, it seems to react violently with water. It also doesn't seem to disassociate into ions in solution. Also seems that it reacts with the CO2 in the air...

edit: As for Calcium citrate, my best guess is that it has very low solubility in water. ~.09g/100 mL according to wiki.
C6H5O7 is just the "citrate" part of ____citrate. its the result of combing citric acid with certain metals.
 
I use MaxiBloom and MaxiGrow (dry)... Both are cheap ... not the cheapest though... It's not worth it to make my own....

For phUP and phDown... just buy the powdered form over the 1 gallon jugs (wet)... You are paying for water and shipping.... You save a lot of money. I'm not sure if those are worth making your own unless it is a hobby.

The problem is this.... MaxiGrow and MaxiBloom both benefit from Ca and Mg additions. The supplements are expensive. MagiCal and Cal-Mag are ridiculously expensive in comparison. I didn't have any deficiencies in the plants with these supplements in addition to my my MaxiGrow and MaxiBloom.... The pH was also more stable, too. We should replicate these types of products... not only that... but it looks pretty easy, only 2-3 cheap, common salts are needed... when I have time (or if you have time now) I will try to replicate it. Then after, as a check, dilute 1 mL of MagiCal with 1 gallon of water to see the ppm. Is your replication formula the same ppm after it's diluted, too?

Silicon is also expensive but I noticed improvements with the use. Some improvements are stronger stems to hold up big flowers =) ..... resistant to pest, etc. Forget the snake oils..... If you're not sure if it is improving... it probably isn't and you're probably wasting money (Fill in snake oil name here: ________________________ )I use Pro-Tekt, Dyna Gro but that's expensive too. We should try to replicate that as well!

Now I've been trying snake oils for a long time, I still am, and never really liked any. I stick to what works and is affordable: MaxiBloom, MaxiGrow, phUP.
And what is not affordable but it works: Pro-Tekt, Cal-Mag (or MagiCal).

Sure BushMaster stops vertical growth which could be helpful ($$$$). MAYBE... but I'm not so sure... some others improve a little but DAMN it was expensive ("If you're not sure if it is improving... it probably isn't and you're probably wasting money"). I'm planning to just use sea kelp in the future. A lot of these snake oils have it. I think you can probably just buy sea kelp dry for cheap, I just got to find where. I want it for hydroponics, not as a foliar spray. Sea Kelp has been PROVEN to help, but I've never used JUST sea kelp as an additive. It has many hormones and trace elements and is natural. But that is the next step. After that I think I am good. =)
 
Here's a thought..
We should create a wiki off knock off recipes, sorted by company or additive type. Pictures of newly created recipes would work just as good, too. Not sure if this website would condone it though =)

We should include original product picture, what exact ingredients to buy, where to buy, what ingredients are different, price comparison, how to make it (e.g- g/liter or g/gallon), etc.

Isn't the strain guide way cooler than a thread that's all over the place and gets buried? Can't we do something like that?

Just a thought.
 
T

thefatman

Some Close Approximations

Cal-Mag Plus

Nitrogen 200
Magnesium 120
Calcium 259
Sulfur 160
Iron 10.00

Grams

Calcium Nitrate 488.9
Magnesium Sulfate 464.0
Iron Chelate 38.57

Volume of Stock Solutions 1 gallon
Dilution Rate 100

Coco Bloom


ppm
Nitrogen 200
Phosphorus 200
Potassium 300
Magnesium 50
Calcium 231
Sulfur 66
Iron 10.00
Manganese 5.00
Boron 5.00
Zinc 5.00
Copper 1.00

Ounces
Part A
Calcium Nitrate 15.3
Potassium Nitrate 1.0
Iron Chelate 1.35

Part B
Potassium Nitrate B 1.0
MonoPotassium Phosphate 12.6
Magnesium Sulfate 6.7
Manganese Sulfate .269
Boric Acid / Solubor .368
Zinc Sulfate .291
Copper Sulfate .059
Ammonium Molybdate .002

Volume of Stock Solution 1
Dilution Rate 100
EC 2.3
TDS 1596
ph 5.5

Coco Grow
ppm
Nitrogen 268
Phosphorus 89
Potassium 179
Magnesium 32
Calcium 315
Sulfur 43
Iron 10.00
Manganese 5.00
Boron 5.00
Zinc 5.00
Copper 1.00
Molbdnum 0.09

Ounces

Part A

Calcium Nitrate 20.8
Potassium Nitrate 1.2
Iron Chelate 1.35

Part B

Potassium Nitrate B 1.2
MonoPotassium Phosphate 5.6
Magnesium Sulfate 4.3
Manganese Sulfate .269
Boric Acid / Solubor .368
Zinc Sulfate .291
Copper Sulfate .059
Ammonium Molybdate .002

Volume of Stock Solutions 1
Dilution Rate 100
TDS 1596
EC 2.3
pH 5.8

Dyna Grow Foliage Pro

Nitrogen 610
Phosphorus 300
Potassium 600
Magnesium 50
Calcium 683
Sulfur 66
Iron 1.00
Manganese 5.00
Boron 1.00
Zinc 5.00
Copper 5.00
Molybdenum .09


Ounces

Calcium Nitrate 45.2
Potassium Nitrate 4.1
Iron Chelate .14
Potassium Nitrate B 4.1
MonoPotassium Phosphate 18.9
Magnesium Sulfate 6.8
Manganese Sulfate .269
Boric Acid / Solubor .074
Zinc Sulfate .291
Copper Sulfate .294
Ammonium Molybdate .002

Volume of Stock Solutions 1
Dilution Rate
100

I have many , many more. Plus my own formulations such as grow and bloom for drain to waste aero.

Sea weed extract, amino acids, chemicals for rooting (auxins), etc. http://www.super-grow.biz/IBASolvent.jsp

I normally only formulate nutrient s for hydro, not soil grows. Please do not ask for formulations for soil growing. I absolutely do not use any organic supplements in chemical formulations used for hydroponics. I use sodium silicate available cheaply on eBay. I do not use calcium citrate or any other organic pH adjusters. For pH down I use Phosphoric acid and for pH up I use Potassium hydroxide. Gh ph up is Potassium hydroxide and Potassium carbonate. For a better pH down use a combination of Phosphoric acid and Nitric acid. Many commercial green houses use Sulfuric acid for a pH down in their hydroponic grows.

One would find it nearly impossible to buy Ammonium Nitrate in the USA since the USA started requiring permits/registration to make purchases. So most canned programs like Nutron 2000 will not produce Hydroponic Formulations well without the use of Ammonium Nitrate. It is also not possible to use High Nitrogen but low Calcium in Hydro Formulations with programs such as Nutron 2000. To get high nitrogen with lower calcium generally it is easiest to use Calcium Nitrate only up to the maximum low calcium level you desire and then use Magnesium Nitrate and Ammonium Sulfate. If you try to use just Calcium Nitrate to obtain your levels of Nitrogen you will be stuck with high levels of calcium. Most hydro formulation by manufacturers of mj formulations use Ammonium Nitrate as part of the total Nitrogen desired so as to not have grossly high calcium as in GH formulations. Drain to waste formulas for hydroponics definitely perform better with lowered calcium levels.

fatman's DTW VEG 2010 #2

Nitrogen 357
Phosphorus 55
Potassium 300
Magnesium 55.5
Calcium 200
Sulfur 78
Iron 10.00
Manganese 5.00
Boron 5.00
Zinc 5.00
Copper 1.00
Molybdenum 0.09

Ounces

Part A
Calcium Nitrate 13.2
Potassium Nitrate 4.0
Iron Chelate 1.35

Part B
Potassium Nitrate 4.0
Magnesuium Nitrate 7.07
Ammonium Sulfate 7.36
MonoPotassium Phosphate 3.5
Manganese Sulfate .269
Boric Acid / Solubor .368
Zinc Sulfate .291
Copper Sulfate.059
Ammonium Molybdate .002

Volume of Stock Solutions 1
Dilution Rate 100

Ratios
N:K 1.2
Ca:N 0.6
K:p 5.5
 

cyat

Well-known member
Veteran
Hey Spurr nice cloner. u inspired me to try mine with a bigger water pump and maybe a timer.

One thing I could add is that an easy way to get these tubs not to leak is to flip the lid upside down.

I have vegged some monsters in my cloner.
 

G.O. Joe

Well-known member
Veteran
When I first signed up here, I searched for the famous foundation of hydroponics, Hoagland's solution here, it is still hardly mentioned. I will take Hoagland over Lucas, and though I do chemistry and have many chemicals, I use GH dry nutes. Search Google and Wikipedia for the what and why on Hoagland, remember there are some variations from the original using chelated metals.

Just use dolomite lime for additional Ca and Mg and adjust pH as necessary (preferably with dilute nitric acid), unless it is already in the medium, like #4 Sunshine.

And sodium metasilicate is sold at most any hardware store, as TSP substitute or something, I have some of that around somewhere. It's a strong base so watch the pH.
 
T

thefatman

The Lucas mixture of the GH formulations is better than Miracle Grow or such house plant preparations. Far from really rating as good though.

Hoagland's, like the other early formulations was formulated for hydroponic green house tomatoes. A lot like GH's regular 2 part formulation, but not as close as Cooper's. All the early preparations and GH two part are very heavy in Calcium due to their being tomato formulations.

And in Hoagland's foot steps.

(Jensen 1979)
gm/100 gallons of water
magnesium sulfate 187
monopotassium phosphate 105
potassium nitrate 77 .
calcium nitrate 189
chelated iron {FeDTPA) 9.6
boric acid 1.0
manganese choride 0.9
cupric chloride 0.05
molybdic acid 0.02
zinc sulfate 0.15 •

N, P, K, Ca, Mg, S, Fe, B, Mn, Zn, Cu, Mo
ppm 106, 62, 156, 93, 48, 64, 3.8, 0.46, 0.81, 0.09, 0.05, 0.03


(Cooper 1979)
gm/100 gallons of water
potassium nitrate 221
magnesium sulfate 194
calcium nitrate 380
monopotassium phosphate 99
Iron chelate (FeEDTA) 30
manganese sulfate 2.3
boric acid 0.6
copper sulfate 0.15
zinc sulfate 0.17
ammonium molybdate 0.I4

N, P, K, Ca, Mg, S, Fe, B, Mn, Zn, Cu, Mo
ppm 236, 60, 300, 185, 50, 68, 12, 0.3, 2.0, 0.1, 0.02


(Johnson 1980)
gm/100 gallons of water
potassium nitrate 95
monopotassium phosphate 54
magnesium sulfate 95
calcium nitrate 173
chelated iron (FeDTPA) 9
boric acid 0.5
manganese sulfate 0.3
zinc sulfate 0.04
copper sulfate 0.01
molybdic acid 0.007

N, P, K, Ca, Mg, S, Fe, B, Mn, Zn, Cu, Mo
ppm 105, 33, 138, 85, 25, 33, 2.3 , 0.23, 0.26, 0.024, 0.01, 0.007


(Larsen 1973)
gm/100 gallons of water
potassium nitrate 67
calcium nitrate 360
potassium magnesium sulfate 167
potassium sulfate 130
chelated iron (FeDTPA) 12
phosphoric acid (75%) (40 ml)
Manganese sulfate 0.5
boric acid 2.2
zinc sulfate 0.5
copper sulfate 0.5
molybdic acid 0.04

N, P, K, Ca, Mg, S, Fe, B, Mn, Zn, Cu, Mo
ppm 172, 41, 300, 180, 48, 158, 3, 1.0, 1.3, 0.3, 0.3, 0.07
 

spurr

Active member
Veteran
Hey Spurr nice cloner. u inspired me to try mine with a bigger water pump and maybe a timer.

One thing I could add is that an easy way to get these tubs not to leak is to flip the lid upside down.

I have vegged some monsters in my cloner.

Thanks. My tub doesn't leak water, did I write it does leak water?
 

cyat

Well-known member
Veteran
sorry bro. Ive used the black and yellow tubs a while for cloners, and they always leaked no matter what I did until I flipped the lid.
so yours doesnt leak, did you do do any thing special to seal it?
 

*mistress*

Member
Veteran
very simple method.... fwiw...

per 5 gallon water `tank 1`:
2 tablespoons calcium nitrate
adjust ph to 5.0

per 5 gallon water `tank 2`:
2 table spoons jax hydroponic 5-1x-2x, or similar mix
adjust ph to 5.0

can increase/decrease ppms/ec/millimhos/ph from that base, if needed...

feed tank 1 day 1
feed tank 2 day 2

end.....

if add anything else, maybe mkp, k-si, mg-s, k-n, k-s, k00l-bl00m, etc, etc.... add to tank 2.... keep cal-nit fed alone.... cal very active & easily precipitate, react, etc....

maybe, add more phosphorus @ begin of bloom for stretch (elongation) for 2 weeks, if needed for that specific cultivar....
add more mag @ start of bloom, too, as this when it is taken from lowest leaves (oldest) & moved to flowering tops....
maintain cal-nit thru-out, fed separately....

lower ph for cation-exchange that increases ph in medium after roots expel hydrogen or hydroxyl, etc ions....

some plants may do well w/ well over 500ppm potassium, or more.... during bloom....

hope this helps

2cents
 

spurr

Active member
Veteran
sorry bro. Ive used the black and yellow tubs a while for cloners, and they always leaked no matter what I did until I flipped the lid.
so yours doesnt leak, did you do do any thing special to seal it?

Mine has never leaked, and I didn't seal it. The sprayers do not spay lid, nor the area where the lid and bottom meet, maybe that is the difference? Does the spray in your setup hit the lid?
 

dgr

Member
Just subscribing to this excellent thread.

While not mixing my own from scratch, I think I'm going to try 5g Maxigro, 2g Maxi bloom as an easy way to get 3-1-4 in veg. If this seems to work, I'm going to play with adding 0-0-50 potash to see how they handle 3-1-6+ in bloom.
 
G

Guest 150314

the following are grams per liter

flower

CaN03 1.02
K2S04 .695
KH2P04 .435
MgS04 .6
Trace .09

veg
CaN03 1.5
K2S04 .11
KH2P04 .348
MgS04 .606
Trace .09
KN03 .52
 
P

poipu79

and another one ...

CaNO3 15.5%N 19%Ca .71x(df)155.=110ppm N/.71x(df)190.=135ppmCa
KNO3 13%N (46%K2O)38%K .20 x 130.=26ppm N/.20 x 380.=76ppm K
KSO4 44% K 18%S .20 x 440.=88ppm K/.20 x 180.=36ppm S
MKP (51.5%P2O5)23%P 28% K .45 x 230.=104ppm P/.45 x 280.=126ppm K
MgSO4 9.8% Mg 12.9%S .72 x 98.=71ppm Mg/.72 x 129.=93ppm S

Mendocino 75

g/l
CaNO3 .71
KNO3 .20
KSO4 .20
MKP .45
MgSO4 .72
.06 mixes my trace product to iron 4 ppm

g/gal
CaNO3 2.69
KNO3 .76
KSO4 .76
MKP 1.71
MgSO4 2.73

sooo
136 ppm N
104 ppm P
290 ppm K
135 ppm Ca
71 ppm Mg
129 ppm S

...poipu
 
Last edited:
T

thefatman

I assume all these formulations with a calcium as high or nearly as high as the nitrogen are intended for growing in soil.
 

dgr

Member
cool, thefatman cometh.

FM, can you elaborate on your question please? I'd like to know the answer. I'm actually growing in coco ebb and flow and trying the following.
N 129
P 40
K 162
Mg 62
S 76
Ca 94

What are better general rules for coco and also for rockwool, etc.
thank you
 
P

poipu79

I assume all these formulations with a calcium as high or nearly as high as the nitrogen are intended for growing in soil.
:dunno: old formulation ...beeing used with 70/30 perl /coco also rdwc
rdwc seems to be out performing the perl/coco...I see that your recipe calls for Ca at .6 of N and I see that mine is "nearly as high"
just purchased some DAP and MgNO3...will remix againwith .08 DAP and .22 MgNO3 gets me 178 ppm N

...poipu
 

spurr

Active member
Veteran
I assume all these formulations with a calcium as high or nearly as high as the nitrogen are intended for growing in soil.

Why would you assume that? In regard to CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity)? If so, CEC in soil is normally lower than in peat and coco based soilless media, and coco has lower CEC than peat. Peat based mixes (ex., Promix and Sunshine), and coco based mixes, aren't soil.

And with peat based media the Percent Base Saturation (of CEC sites) would be filled pretty high (pretty full), due to inclusion of calcidic lime, dolomidic lime and gypsum. That means much Ca, Mg, S, etc., (from fertigation) would not become 'bound' to CEC sites en mass.

With coco, the CEC is lower than with peat. Yet there is often no addition of limes or gypsum, thus the Percent Base Satiation (PBS) would not be as 'full' as peat (with limes and gypsum). However, the residual K (from coco) will fill up CEC sites (re PBS), just like Ca and S from the limes and gypsum in peat.

What all that means is high Ca in fertilizer mixes for soilless (and water culture, both are forms of hydroponics) is not due to temporary 'loss' of Ca re CEC and PBS. In soil P and Ca is often provided in higher amounts than needed due to interactions with soil particles (ex. clay), etc., but that isn't the case with soilless and water culture.

I have been using N:Ca ratio of ~1.1 for some time, and I've used N:Ca ratio of 1, in the past. Many people have tested my mixes, and many other people have used N:Ca ratio near 1; for soilless and water culture. Ca could be reduced in latter flowering due to reduced rate of growth, but during veg and early flowering, Ca should be near the level of N. This is verified via. many tissues assays on cannabis and other plants.

The N:Ca ratio is important, if it's too high (too much N with respect to Ca) leaf growth is hindered. The growth (due to high N) is outpaced by the plants' ability to move Ca into the newly forming cells, thus damaging the leafs.

I have been testing ~130-140 ppm total N (ammonicial + nitrate) and ~120-130 ppm Ca, for some time, from veg to harvest. Results are great for peat, coco and water culture ...
 

spurr

Active member
Veteran
@ thefatman,

The thing about Ca (and B) is they are only taken up at root tips, unlike other elements. And they are only taken up passively with water, unlike other elements. Ca and B are not free to move into root tissue (re osmotic pressure, etc.), unlike almost all other elements the plant needs. That is one reason Ca is often 'high', that is the reason I use Ca how I do.

That said, Ca and B are taken up more slowly than all other essential elements, due to passive uptake only. Thus on refill solutions, ex., in recirculating systems, Ca and B can/should be lower than in starter solution. In your case, with run-to-waste aero, your Ca should be high all the time, ex., about and greater than 100 ppm.
 
Last edited:

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