What's new
  • ICMag with help from Landrace Warden and The Vault is running a NEW contest in November! You can check it here. Prizes are seeds & forum premium access. Come join in!

Deficiency Pathology - Diagnose Sick Plants, Follow up with Cure

acespicoli

Well-known member
Cannabis Pathology - Diagnose Sick Plants Suggest Remedy for the Disease Follow up with effective Cure
1694524770292.png



The main purpose is to document different pathogens
as they appear solely on cannabis


1699989961752.png

Powdery mildew
1699990315681.png

Cannabis Leaf Septoria vs Calcium Deficiency

1699990459901.png

Understanding bud rot development, caused by Botrytis cinerea,


How to Get Rid of Fungus Gnats | Trifecta Natural
1699990800047.png
1699990836100.png
How to Get Rid of Fungus Gnats | Trifecta Natural


How to Get Rid of Fungus Gnats


10$ jewelers loupe a single 60x is sufficient

List of hemp diseases​


From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


Hemp leaf being attacked by red spider mites
This is a list of diseases of hemp (Cannabis sativa).

Bacterial diseases​

Bacterial diseases
Bacterial blightPseudomonas cannabina
Crown gallAgrobacterium tumefaciens
Striatura ulcerosaPseudomonas amygdali pv. mori
Xanthomonas leaf spotXanthomonas campestris pv. cannabis

Fungal diseases​

Fungal diseases
AnthracnoseColletotrichum coccodes
= Colletotrichum atramentarium
= Colletotrichum dematium
Black dot diseaseEpicoccum nigrum
= Epicoccum purpurascens
Black mildewSchiffnerula cannabis
Brown blightAlternaria alternata
= Alternaria tenuis
Brown leaf spot and stem cankerAscochyta spp.
Ascochyta prasadii
Phoma
spp.
Didymella spp. [teleomorph]
Phoma exigua
Phoma glomerata
Phoma herbarum
Charcoal rotMacrophomina phaseolina
Cladosporium stem cankerCladosporium cladosporioides
Cladosporium herbarum
Mycosphaerella tassiana
[teleomorph]
Curvularia leaf spotCurvularia cymbopogonis
Curvularia lunata
Cochliobolus lunatus
[teleomorph]
Cylindrosporium blightCylindrosporium spp.
Cylindrosporium cannabinum
Damping-offBotrytis cinerea
Botryotinia fuckeliana
[teleomorph]
Fusarium oxysporum
Fusarium solani
Nectria haematococca
[teleomorph]
Macrophomina phaseolina
Pythium aphanidermatum
Pythium debaryanum
Pythium ultimum
Rhizoctonia solani
Thanatephorus cucumeris
[teleomorph]
= Pellicularia filamentosa
Downy mildewPseudoperonospora cannabina
Pseudoperonospora humuli
Fusarium foot rot and root rotFusarium solani
Fusarium stem cankerFusarium sulphureum
Gibberella cyanogena
[teleomorph]
= Gibberella saubinetii
Fusarium wiltFusarium oxysporum f.sp. cannabis
Fusarium oxysporum f.sp. vasinfectum
Gray moldBotrytis cinerea
Hemp cankerSclerotinia sclerotiorum
Leptosphaeria blightLeptosphaeria cannabina
Leptosphaeria woroninii
Leptosphaeria acuta
Olive leaf spotCercospora cannabis
Pseudocercospora cannabina
Ophiobolus stem cankerOphiobolus cannabinus
Ophiobolus anguillides
Phoma stem cankerPhoma herbarum
Phoma exigua
Phomopsis stem cankerPhomopsis cannabina
Phomopsis achilleae
Diaporthe arctii var. achilleae
[teleomorph]
Phymatotrichum root rot
Cotton root rot
Phymatotrichopsis omnivora
= Phymatotrichum omnivorum
Pink rotTrichothecium roseum
= Cephalothecium roseum
Powdery mildew
(of Cannabis)
Leveillula taurica
Oidiopsis taurica
[anamorph]
Podosphaera macularis
= Sphaerotheca humuli = Sphaerotheca macularis
Oidium
sp. [anamorph]
Golovinomyces cichoracearum sensu lato
Golovinomyces ambrosiae
Red bootMelanospora cannabis (secondary on hemp canker)
Rhizoctonia soreshin and root rotRhizoctonia solani
RustAecidium cannabis
Uredo kriegeriana
Uromyces inconspicuus
Southern blight
Sclerotium root and stem rot
Sclerotium rolfsii
Athelia rolfsii
[teleomorph]
Stemphylium leaf and stem spotStemphylium botryosum
Pleospora tarda
[teleomorph]
Stemphylium cannabinum
Tar spotPhyllachora cannabis
Tropical rotLasiodiplodia theobromae
= Botryodiplodia theobromae
Twig blightDendrophoma marconii
Botryosphaeria marconii
[teleomorph]
Verticillium wiltVerticillium albo-atrum
Verticillium dahliae
White leaf spotPhomopsis ganjae
Yellow leaf spotSeptoria cannabis
Septoria cannabina

Nematodes, parasitic​


Viral diseases​

Viral diseases
Alfalfa mosaic & Lucerne mosaicgenus Alfamovirus, Alfalfa mosaic virus (AMV)
Arabis mosaicgenus Nepovirus, Arabis mosaic virus (ArMV)
Cucumber mosaicgenus Cucumovirus, Cucumber mosaic virus (CMV)
Hemp mosaicgenus ?Tobamovirus
Hemp streakgenus ?, Hemp streak virus

Phytoplasmal diseases​

Phytoplasmal diseases
Witches' broom

Miscellaneous diseases and disorders​

Miscellaneous diseases and disorders
FasciationCause undetermined
Grey fleckMagnesium deficiency
Tipburn & leaf margin necrosisPotassium deficiency

Pests Controlled - Predators/Parasites​


  • Adelgids
  • Ants
  • Aphids
  • Armyworms
  • Beetles
  • Borers
  • Broad Mites
  • Budworms
  • Caterpillars
  • Cockroaches
  • Crickets
  • Cutworms
  • Cyclamen Mites
  • Earwigs
  • Fruit Flies
  • Fungus Gnats
  • Grasshoppers
  • Japanese Beetle
  • Lacebugs
  • Leafhoppers
  • Leafminers
  • Leafrollers
  • Loopers
  • Mealybugs
  • Mites
  • Mosquitoes
  • Moths
  • Psyllids
  • Root Knot Nematodes
  • Russet Mites
  • Sawflies
  • Scale
  • Spider Mites
  • Spongy Moth
  • Stink Bugs
  • Tent Caterpillars
  • Thrips
  • Webworms
  • Weevils
  • White Flies
  • Whiteflies

Disease Control​


  • Alternaria
  • Anthracnose
  • Black Spot
  • Botrytis
  • Downy Mildew
  • Early Blight
  • Fire Blight
  • Fusarium
  • Late Blight
  • Leaf Spot
  • Phytophthora
  • Powdery Mildew
  • Pythium
  • Rhizoctonia
  • Rust
  • Scab

Integrated Pest Management​


Integrated Pest Management Chart

Integrated Pest Management (IPM) is a process that is used to control pest populations while minimizing the impacts on people and the surrounding environment. Focusing mainly on long-term pest prevention, a successful IPM program utilizes a combination of control methods including biological control, habitat manipulation, changes to cultural practices and use of resistant plant varieties. At the core of IPM is the desire to reduce pesticide use and human incursion into the ecosystem unless monitoring of pest populations indicates intervention is necessary.
1. Soil Preparation & Planting:
This begins with selecting the right soil medium for what, where and how we are growing. Make sure drainage and nutrition levels are sufficient for the crop selection. It is also the best stage of growing to control overwintering pests.
2. Forecasting:
Forecasting requires that we understand the kinds of pests that are common on the crops being cultivated and learn about their life cycles. Knowing a pest's life cycle allows us to take action early and effectively.
3. Pest Trapping & Monitoring:
Early and correct identification of pests is a key to determining our best strategy for further action. Important information is gathered during inspection and should be consistently recorded in order to gather all pertinent information about the pest.
4. Thresholds:
Establish a threshold at which control measures must be taken. In most cases, a certain number of pests are tolerable. In general, when the cost of damage exceeds that of the cost of control it is time to intervene.
5. Cultural Controls & Sanitation:
Cultural controls should be taken regardless of thresholds being crossed or not. Crop rotation, intercropping and trap cropping are common forms of cultural control. Sanitation is imperative to a successful integrated pest management program in indoor, outdoor, or greenhouse settings as it removes organic and inorganic residues, helps reduce egg/spore populations and deters overwintering. Diligence at this stage can minimize pest control efforts throughout the growing season.
6. Biological Controls:
Once a pest population has been identified and monitored, we can introduce beneficial insects or other organisms to control and suppress the continued growth of that pest population. Biological controls come in the form of insect predators/parasites, fungi, bacteria and more and should be chosen based on their effectiveness at controlling the target pest(s) in the environment we are growing in.
7. Chemical Controls:
If control cannot be achieved through trapping and the introduction of biocontrols, using chemical controls may be necessary. We should always be aware of the ingredients in chemical controls as they have different residual effects and compatibility with other products.
8. Record Keeping:
Make note of the types of pests that were present, what times they were present and the population levels they reached throughout the growing season. This will help us make effective decisions for coming seasons.
9. Evaluation & Decisions for Upcoming Season:
Once the growing season finishes, we can look over our records and evaluate what was effective and what may not have been.

Click on the links below for more information about each step of the IPM cycle.​


 

Attachments

  • 1699990566530.jpeg
    1699990566530.jpeg
    8.9 KB · Views: 425
Last edited:

acespicoli

Well-known member
This post in edit reserved for references and quick visual keys, thread is open feel free to post :huggg:
I will post alot of scientific research its not just bro science.... ;)
1694526774700.png

Virus arrives in purchased seed
May 30, 2023 — Lastly, experiments have shown that HLVd can be transmitted via seed, either from infected males crossing with healthy females or healthy males ...

1694526915079.png

Fungus and Molds arrive in your purchased coco fiber and peat

Recovery of fungal species from samples of unsterilized coconut fiber (coco) used in the hydroponic cultivation of cannabis plants. Samples were diluted in water and plated onto PDA+S. (A) A diverse range of Penicillium and Aspergillus species were recovered from unused coco bags. (B) Colonies of Aspergillus niger (black) and Aspergillus terreus (pink) present in coco samples. (C) Proposed scheme through which molds found in growing substrates could be air-borne and spread to the inflorescences, or grow internally in the pith tissues of the stem. (D, E) Microbes present in coco substrate at the beginning and end of the production cycle include species of Aspergillus (red colonies), Penicillium (blue-green colonies) as well as a range of uncharacterized bacteria. (F) Colonies of Fusarium oxysporum emerging from coco substrate used in cannabis production, showing complete colonization of the medium by the end of the 10-week production cycle as a result of build-up of inoculum.


More to come .....






There are solutions to these issues:
treat you seed - sous vide - link coming
sterilize your culture media prior to planting - link coming
use distilled or RO water
 
Last edited:

acespicoli

Well-known member
During the first growth stages

Rhizoctonia solani

Damping off can be prevented or controlled in several different ways. Sowing seeds in a sterilized growing medium can be effective, although fungal spores may still be introduced to the medium, either on the seeds themselves or after sowing (in water or on the wind).

A number of different fungi and fungi-like organisms cause the symptoms of damping off, including:

Root rot is a condition in which anoxic (lack of oxygen) conditions in the soil or potting media around the roots of a plant cause them to rot. This occurs due to excessive standing water around the roots.

Some of the most common during the grow

Wilt

Powdery Mildew

Bud Rot


Please post some pictures of your problem plants
Pictures of your soil and tell about your tempature and humidity are helpful indicators as well
 
Last edited:

acespicoli

Well-known member
1694576785865.png

Pricey $$$ but on point...
1694577579913.png

To sterilize a substrate, you need temperatures higher than 250°F (121°C) for at least 2 hours.
1694577757466.png

1694578063819.png
keep it simple or get fancy
 

acespicoli

Well-known member
Last edited:

acespicoli

Well-known member
J Toxicol

. 2013;2013:378168.
doi: 10.1155/2013/378168. Epub 2013 May 12.

Determination of pesticide residues in cannabis smoke​


Nicholas Sullivan 1 , Sytze Elzinga, Jeffrey C Raber

Affiliations
Free PMC article

Abstract​


The present study was conducted in order to quantify to what extent cannabis consumers may be exposed to pesticide and other chemical residues through inhaled mainstream cannabis smoke. Three different smoking devices were evaluated in order to provide a generalized data set representative of pesticide exposures possible for medical cannabis users. Three different pesticides, bifenthrin, diazinon, and permethrin, along with the plant growth regulator paclobutrazol, which are readily available to cultivators in commercial products, were investigated in the experiment. Smoke generated from the smoking devices was condensed in tandem chilled gas traps and analyzed with gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS). Recoveries of residues were as high as 69.5% depending on the device used and the component investigated, suggesting that the potential of pesticide and chemical residue exposures to cannabis users is substantial and may pose a significant toxicological threat in the absence of adequate regulatory frameworks.
 

acespicoli

Well-known member

List of Mites - affecting plants entomology

1695301537620.jpeg


Spider Mites



1695301537663.jpeg


Twospotted spider mite



1695301537703.jpeg


Broad mite



1695301537743.jpeg


Tomato russet mite



1695301537780.jpeg


Cyclamen mite



1695301537817.jpeg


Phytoseiulus



1695301537856.jpeg


Eriophyidae



1695301537892.jpeg


Western flower thrips



1695301537929.jpeg


Predatory mite



images


Clover mite



images


Neoseiulus californicus



images


Dermanyssus gallinae



images


Amblyseius andersoni



images


Pearleaf blister mite


  • Diatomaceous earth will also kill mites by disrupting their cuticles, which dries out the mites.
  • Lime sulfur is effective against sarcoptic mange. It is made by mixing hydrated lime, sulfur, and water, and boiling for about 1 hour. Hydrated lime can bond with about 1.7 times its weight of sulfur (quicklime can bond with as much as 2.2 times its weight of sulfur). The strongest concentrate is diluted 1:32 before saturating the skin (avoiding the eyes), applied at six-day intervals.
Surfaces can be "painted" with Lime sulfur

1695301750746.png


LIVE DELIVERY GUARANTEED


CHEMICAL COMPATIBILITY:
If you've recently used pesticides, be sure to check the chemical compatibility with your predatory mites. We've compiled a list of some common chemicals as a resource.




ABOUT SPECIAL BLEND SPIDER MITE CONTROL:
Our Special Blend takes the guess work out of which mite should be used in your garden, greenhouse, or grow room. Our predatory mites are the natural and organic way to control spider mite infestation. Proven effective, Special Blend Spider Mite Control consists of an assortment of the following predatory mites: A. andersoni, N. californicus, A. cucumeris, P. persimilis, and A. swirskii.


TARGET PESTS:
Feeds on Two-Spotted Spider Mites, Broad Mites, Rust Mites, Russet Hemp Mites, Cyclamen Mites, Southern Red Mites, and many other species of mites.



PREDATORY MITES IN BOTTLES vs SLOW RELEASE SACHETS:
BOTTLED MITES:
Best choice for an active infestation.
Our adult predatory mites are a natural tool to help cure an active infestation of mites. These tiny predators feed on all life stages of unwanted pests in your garden and help to balance the ecosystem. Our beneficial insects work quickly to reduce light to moderate infestations. With heavier infestations, increase in quantity and frequency may be required.

SLOW RELEASE SACHETS:
Don't fight pests, prevent them.
Avoiding garden pests is far easier than dealing with an outbreak of bad bugs - be proactive by preventing the problem. Our sachets are filled with a blend of predatory mites in a variety of life stages, providing a slow release of pest control into your garden. When it comes to having a healthy garden, preventative care is key. Release monthly as part of your IPM program.



HOW TO RELEASE BOTTLED PREDATORY MITES:
SpiderMiteReleaseChart_480x480.jpg

SPECIAL BLEND RELEASE RATES:

BOTTLE:
Light Infestation: 2-4 mites per square foot.
Heavy Infestation: 5-10 mites per square foot.
Release weekly or bi-weekly as needed.
Temperature Range: 43° - 110° F.
Humidity: 40% - 90%.

SACHET:
Hang one sachet per 3-6 square feet, every 2-4 weeks.



PRO TIPS:
Use NaturesGoodGuys Hanging Release Boxes to release your predatory mites without making a mess! Release boxes help you concentrate predatory mites on infested areas.

Predatory mites are susceptible to pesticides. Avoid spraying plants one week before or after releasing predators. Some materials may be toxic to predators for up to four weeks.



STORAGE:
For best results, release within 24 hours of receipt. If storage is necessary, store at 42° - 48° F. for no longer than 48 hours.

 
Last edited:

acespicoli

Well-known member

Predatory Mite Species​


There are many species of predatory mites used for pest control:


PHYTOSEIULUS PERSIMILIS:


Persimilis4_1800x1400_06221faf-bd69-4951-9ad5-e9c398257e10_480x480.jpg



Target Pest:
Two-Spotted Spider Mites.


Description: Adults are tiny (.3 mm long), fast moving, red, pear-shaped mites with noticeably long legs. Unlike its natural enemy, the Two-Spotted Spider Mite, P. persimilis does not spin webbing.





AMBLYSEIUS ANDERSONI:


Andersoni-Mite_1800x1400_f39e3d53-e698-4d65-ae33-78ea6e3abca4_480x480.jpg



Target Pest: Broad Mites, Cyclamen Mites, Russet Hemp Mites, and Two-Spotted Spider Mites.


Description: A generalist feeder, the color of A. andersoni is completely dependent on what they are feeding on. They are best known for their ability to survive high temperatures, but will survive over the winter as well.





NEOSEIULUS CALIFORNICUS:


Californicus-1800x1400_480x480.jpg



Target Pest:
Two-Spotted Spider Mites, Broad Mites, Cyclamen Mites, Russet Mites, and Rust Mites.


Description: Californicus is pear-shaped and tan in color. They have a slower paced eating habit, which allows them to survive longer with limited food supply. Works great for preventative control.





AMBLYSEIUS SWIRSKII:


Swirskii-Mite_1800x1400_62a23be3-475d-49f5-8ee8-f61042aaadac_480x480.jpg



Target Pest:
Broad Mites, Russet Hemp Mites, Thrips, Whiteflies, Tarsonemid Mites, and many other mite species.


Description: Amblyseius swirskii can be used indoors and outdoors on a wide range of host plants. They can treat many types of spider mites, thrips, and whitefly larvae.





AMBLYSEIUS CUCUMERIS:


Cucumeris-Mite_1800x1400_476ed2ab-9f9d-4999-a75f-f39ea024af4b_480x480.jpg



Target Pest:
Thrips, Cyclamen Mites, Broad Mites, Rust Mites, and many other mite species.


Description: Amblyseius cucumeris is a species of predatory mite that feeds on immature stages of thrips. It also feeds on pollen, Two-Spotted Spider Mites, and many other mite species.





NEOSEIULUS FALLACIS:


Target Pest: Broad Mites, Red Mites, Pacific Mites, Spider Mites, Two-Spotted Spider Mite, and many other mite species.


Description: This predatory mite has a strong preference for pest mite species and will gravel from tree to tree searching for them.





SPECIAL BLEND SPIDER MITE CONTROL:


Special-Blend-Mite-Square_1800x1400_591f4c28-c47f-43d4-99fb-ca848724ae51_480x480.jpg



Target Pest:
Two-Spotted Spider Mites, Broad Mites, Rust Mites, Cyclamen Mites, Russet Mites, and many other mite species.


Description: Special Blend Spider Mite Control consists of an assortment of the following predatory mites: A. andersoni, A. cucumeris, P. persimilis, A. swirskii, and N. californicus. Our Special Blend takes the guess work out of which mite should be used in your garden, greenhouse, or grow room.


1695304429097.png

especially effective for pesticide resistant mites
 
Last edited:

acespicoli

Well-known member
cont... pic limited


1695306798194.png

Neoseiulus californicus (Predator BioControl)


1695308198536.png

Predatory mite

Phytoseiidae

Phytoseiulus



1695307364642.png

Dermanyssus gallinae (Predator)

1695307405750.png

Amblyseius andersoni (Predator)

1695308232297.png

Phytoseiulus (Preadatory Mitemost common one used in greenhouses)
Prey Plant-feeding spider mites (family Tetranychidae)
The adult female can lay up to 60 eggs during her approximately 50-day lifespan when temperatures average 74°F. Eggs hatch 2 to 3 days after being laid. Total time from egg to adult ranges from about 25 days at 59°F to 5 days at 86°F. Generation times are 7 to 17 days at common field and greenhouse temperatures, twice as fast as that of its prey.
Phytoseiulus persimilis does not have a diapause (resting) stage and is active year-round in greenhouses, interior plantscapes, and where winter temperatures are mild. There are multiple generations per year.
Phytoseiulus persimilis is a voracious feeder, having the highest known consumption rate of all Phytoseiidae. Adults consume 5 to 20 prey (eggs or mites) per day. If spider mite prey are not present, these predators will disperse or starve and so may need periodic reintroduction when spider mites recolonize plants. Phytoseiulus persimilis is a more effective predator where adjacent plants touch because touching plants facilitate the predator's dispersal and prey finding (locating).
Phytoseiulus persimilis requires high relative humidity to thrive. Development almost stops at 25 to 30% relative humidity. Humidity levels below 70% reduce the ability of immatures to molt to the next life stage.


with 10-40X microscopic magnification to identify the mite

Morphological identification​

Seventy-seven adults from the four colonies indicated in Table Table11 were cleared in lactophenol solution and mounted on slides in Hoyer’s solution, following the guidelines of Krantz and Walter14. Each specimen was examined, and the most relevant morphological structures for identification were photographed with scales using a Canon Eos 60D camera attached to an Olympus light microscope BX43, and with a Nikon Digital Sight DS-Ri1 camera attached to a Nikon Eclipse Ni-U 90 microscope. The measurements (micrometers μm) were developed in Adobe Illustrator (Adobe Systems Incorporated, USA). The body length represented by the idiosoma, was measured with and without gnathosoma, and the setae were measured from the base to the tip; the description of characters follows Lindquist15. Identification to the genus level was performed using the taxonomic key of Bolland et al.16, and the species were identified with different taxonomic keys17, morphological descriptions, illustrations1820 and 55 specimens identified by José Maria Guerrero at CIAT, for each genus identified. All specimens examined were deposited in the CIAT Arthropod Reference Collection (CIAT-ARC).



1695311583218.png

Insight into the screenshot of lucid mite morphological keys ;) enjoy and post your pics of mites (y)
1695311894127.png

If you can recommend any of these please do post it and a review would be helpful
1695311955550.png


1695312209022.png

1695312224063.png
 
Last edited:

acespicoli

Well-known member
1695313081669.png

An endophyte is an endosymbiont, often a bacterium or fungus, that lives within a plant for at least part of its life cycle without causing apparent disease. Endophytes are ubiquitous and have been found in all species of plants studied to date; however, most of the endophyte/plant relationships are not well understood. Some endophytes may enhance host growth, nutrient acquisition and improve the plant's ability to tolerate abiotic stresses, such as drought and decrease biotic stresses by enhancing plant resistance to insects, pathogens and herbivores. Although endophytic bacteria and fungi are frequently studied, endophytic archaea are increasingly being considered for their role in plant growth promotion as part of the core microbiome of a plant.


There are two main types of symbiont transmissions.

horizontal transmission, each new generation acquires free living symbionts from the environment. An example is the nitrogen-fixing bacteria in certain plant roots.

Vertical transmission takes place when the symbiont is transferred directly from parent to offspring.
 

acespicoli

Well-known member

Rearing nematodes: Do-it-yourself guide​


Heidi Wollaeger, Michigan State University Extension, and Fred Warner, MSU Diagnostic Services, Department of Plant, Soil and Microbial Sciences - October 28, 2013

Rearing nematodes in wax worms may be a cheaper source to provide fungus gnat and shore fly control in the greenhouse.


Species of entomopathogenic nematodes, or round worms, have been shown to be beneficial for controlling many types of greenhouse pests, including fungus gnats, shore flies, and some control of western flower thrips. In the nursery, nematodes can provide some control of root weevils, wireworms, cutworms, and spotty control of Japanese beetle grubs. In the same manner that these nematodes invade their soil-borne hosts, nematodes can be bred in Galleria mellonella wax worms. Rearing them yourself can save you money and prevent repeat ordering with your supplier.
What you will need:
  • 2 and 3.5-inch Petri dishes
  • Filter paper
  • G. mellonella wax worms from your local bait and tackle shop
  • De-ionized water or boiled tap water
  • Aquarium with bubbler or numerous shallow live culture flasks
  • Microscope
Numerous species of entomopathogenic nematodes can be reared with Galleria wax worms, including Heterorhabditis bacteriophora, Steinernema carpocapsae, Steinernema feltiae and Steinernema riobrave. First, place five live wax worms in a Petri dish with approximately 100 live nematodes, or 20 nematodes per host worm, with a few drops (0.5 mL) of de-ionized or boiled tap water. The juvenile nematodes will enter and infect insects through their natural openings. Endosymbiotic bacteria carried within the nematodes are released after they penetrate their hosts. Toxins produced by the bacteria cause blood poisoning of the insects usually resulting in their death within 72 hours. The nematodes consume the bacteria and complete one to three generations before they emerge from the dead insects seeking other hosts.
Store Petri dishes for six days in a dark place at room temperature. After six days, check worms for infection. The cadavers of the wax worms successfully infected will appear beige to dark red, depending on the species of nematode used for infection (Photos 1-2).

Wax worms
Wax worms

Photos 1-2. (Left) Wax worms post-infection from S. carpocapsae. Successfully infected wax worms will be beige in color. (Right) Wax worms post-infection from H. bacteriophora. Successfully infected wax worms will appear brick red. Photo credit: Heidi Wollaeger, MSU Extension. Special thanks to MSU’s Matt Grieship and Joe Tourtios for specimens.​

Upon successful infection, place Petri dish containing nematodes, worms and filter paper within another larger Petri dish. Fill the outer Petri dish halfway with de-ionized or boiled tap water and cover with an opaque lid for three weeks. Infective juvenile nematodes will emerge from the host and swim into the water within one to three weeks. Verify that the nematodes are still alive – wiggling and swimming – under a dissecting microscope. Dead nematodes will be straight and still.
Add solution that contains nematodes to a live culture flask, a shallow dish or an aquarium with an air bubbler. Nematodes can be stored in darkness in a container that provides a sufficient amount of air to nematodes by using shallow containers or an air bubbler for approximately one month.
Michigan State University Extension recommends that a minimum of a half of a million nematodes be applied to every square meter in the greenhouse to provide fungus gnat and shore fly larvae control. In the nursery or field, concentrations should be at least double of that in the greenhouse. A mixture of species of nematodes may prove to be beneficial since nematodes of different species are more effective on some greenhouse pests than others. S. feltiae infects fungus gnat larvae while S. carpocapsae infects shore fly larvae.
To learn more about the nematode lifecycle and how to apply them in the greenhouse or the nursery, visit the University of Massachusetts biological control websites: Biological Control: Using Beneficial Nematodes and Beneficial Nematodes.



This article was published by Michigan State University Extension. For more information, visit https://extension.msu.edu. To have a digest of information delivered straight to your email inbox, visit https://extension.msu.edu/newsletters. To contact an expert in your area, visit https://extension.msu.edu/experts, or call 888-MSUE4MI (888-678-3464).
 

acespicoli

Well-known member
1696377603432.png

 

acespicoli

Well-known member

Root Aphids​

1696378487927.png


How To Get Rid of Root Aphids​


Organic Ways To Kill Root Aphids


Root aphids are damaging pests to indoor crops and are responsible for reduced plant vigor, increased incidence of plant disease and substantial crop losses in indoor and outdoor cultivation. Most common in container plantings, early detection and treatment is highly recommended for root aphids. Infestations of root aphids inhibit plant growth and they will not reach their mature size. Often mistaken for nutrient deficiencies, the damage they cause shows up as yellowing withered leaves and reduced plant vigor, and they have a severe effect on the fruiting ability of plants if left untreated. In addition to the direct effects of root aphids, their damage leaves plants vulnerable to pathogenic diseases. Flowering and fruiting plants' growth will be underdeveloped and less than optimal in quality.
Identification & Appearance:
From the Phylloxera family, root aphids are similar in size to aphids found on plant foliage and sometimes slightly smaller with an oblong shape. They inhabit the root zone of plants while feeding on plants' roots and occasionally move above ground onto plant surfaces. Their coloration varies depending on what they are feeding on and other environmental conditions, but generally appear white and brown. Winged adults are often confused with fungus gnats as they inhabit similar environments and take off when agitated. A telltale sign that you have root aphids is the chalky honeydew root aphids secrete that builds up on top of and throughout the potting media.
How To Control Root Aphids: Controlling root aphids begins with careful monitoring and is most effective when a mixture of control methods are used. While systemic insecticides may be suitable, there are few organic systemic treatments and extreme caution should be taken when using systemic insecticides on consumable crops.
  • Growing Mediums should be selected carefully. Take care to avoid commercial soil mixes/compost and inspect what you use when planting. Inspect for pest eggs, larvae, and/or adults. Locally sourced, high quality soil mediums or homemade compost can make it easy to control inputs into production.
  • Beauveria bassiana is a fungus used as a biocontrol for soft-bodied insects (aphids, thrips, Whiteflies, etc.). BotaniGard 22WP contains B. bassiana spores and poses less risk of phytotoxicity than liquid formulations. It is the closest thing to a "root aphid killer".
  • Sf/Hb Nematode Combo interrupts root aphid reproductions cycles – slowing population growth and controlling them over time. Nematodes will also help spread B. bassiana spores in the soil after a BotaniGard treatment.
  • Azadirachtin serves as a growth regulator and feeding inhibitor and can be applied as a soil drench when treating a root aphid infestation. Alternating spray treatments between azadirachtin and B. bassiana for extended periods is optimal. Azera Gardening combines this neem extract with pyrethrins for a potent punch.



Aphids​


How To Control Aphids Organically​


Aphids, family name Aphididae, are a common pest to gardeners, commercial growers and greenhouses due to their wide species diversity and rapid reproductive cycle. There are some 1,351 species of aphids currently recorded in the US and Canada, of which about 80 species are pests of food crops and ornamental plants. Most get their names from the plants they attack, i.e. the green peach aphid, the cabbage aphid, or the rose aphid.
Identification & Appearance:
Aphids are slow moving and come in shades of green, red, brown, black and yellow. Their oblong bodies have two small tubes, called cornicles, projecting from their rear that are unique to them. These allow aphids to get rid of excess sugar in the form of honeydew. They have needlelike mouthparts which they use to suck juices out of plants. Aphids do not chew. If you notice chewing damage on a plant, look to identify a different culprit.
Aphid Damage:
Each plant reacts differently to aphid attacks. Some show no adverse response to aphids, while others react with twisted, curled or swollen leaves and/or stems. Symptoms of aphid damage include decreased growth rates, mottled leaves, leaf yellowing, stunted growth, browning, wilting, low yields and death. Due to the way they feed, aphids can vector bacterial and viral diseases, which can be much more difficult to control than the aphid population. For instance, the green peach aphid (Myzus persicae) is a vector for more than 110 plant viruses.
One of the most common annoyances caused by aphids is their excessive waste production, called "honeydew". This sticky substance drips onto plant leaves and stems and can harbor fungal diseases like powdery mildew and Black Sooty Mold. These can leave plants with unsightly patches and limit growth potential. Once the aphids are eliminated, the foliar fungal diseases often dry up and die.
5-Step Aphid Control:
1.) Trap & Monitor

  • Yellow Sticky Traps work well for outdoor and potted plants where localized monitoring is desired.
  • Ribbon Traps are best for row crops and greenhouse settings. They save time and energy while giving thorough coverage.
2.) Repellent Sprays
  • Broadcast spray Garlic Barrier for small or large scale applications. It gives broad spectrum insect repellent action with limited contact effects.
3.) General Predators
  • Effective releases of Green Lacewing limit aphid population growth and can control moderate pest issues in a garden or farm. For severe infestations, consider an aphid parasite (listed below).
  • Assassin Bugs are less affected by heat than ladybugs and are effective aphid predators. Like other predators & parasites, release assassin bugs at the first sighting of aphids.
  • If you need a fast-feeding beneficial, Minute Pirate Bugs are best. They continue to control insects after feeding making them reliable for curbing population growth.
4.) Knockdown Sprays
  • Insecticidal Soap sprays should be used early in the season before high aphid numbers are spotted. Minimize impacts on existing beneficials with these residue-free sprays. Low risk to beneficial insects when sprayed carefully.
  • Neem Oil acts as a growth and feeding inhibitor while preventing respiration. Use as a contact insecticide for moderate infestations. High risk to beneficial insects in the growing area.
  • BotaniGard 22WP should be applied to affected crop area to control ongoing aphid issues. It uses Beauveria bassiana to infect aphids, spreading White Muscardine disease throughout the pest populations. Provides longer term control than chemical sprays. Low risk to beneficial insects.
5.) Aphid Parasites
  • Aphidius colemani are most effective between 70° - 77°F. They require two weeks for development and up to 200-300 aphids are attacked by each female. Fertilized eggs develop into females and non-fertilized eggs develop into males. The female has a pointed abdomen, while the male's abdomen is round-shaped.
  • Aphelinus abdominalis like temperatures beginning at 68°F. They are very versatile because they parasitize a wide range of aphid species and work effectively in fields and greenhouses.
  • Aphidius ervi consume larger aphids and prefer temperatures between 65° to 77°F with relative humidity of 60-80%. They work at higher temperatures but show a decline in activity at temperatures above 86°F.
  • Aphidoletes aphidimyza controls aphids including the green peach aphid as well as the hemlock wooly adelgid. A. aphidimyza prefers greenhouse and indoor environments with temperatures 60-77° with relative humidity of 70%.
 
Last edited:

acespicoli

Well-known member
Triple Action Pest Control Spray – Insecticide, Fungicide & Miticide
1696379183329.png

Warning & Toxicities:
This product is toxic to bees exposed to direct treatment. Do not apply this product while bees are actively visiting the treatment area. Avoid skin and eye contact. Toxic amphibians, fish, mollusks.


Shelf Life: 7-10 years


Active Ingredients/Guaranteed Analysis:

Concentrate – 70% Clarified Hydrophobic Extract of Neem Oil


RTU – 0.9% Clarified Hydrophobic Extract of Neem Oil


Neem Oil is an effective option for garden pest & disease control. It can be used on most plants to control all life stages of common garden pests insects and mites – egg, larvae/nymphs and adults. It is also useful in reducing fungal disease incidence on foliage. Clarified Neem Oil is a product of the Neem Tree
Benefits of Neem:
  • Kills eggs, larvae and adult stages of pest insects.
  • Suppresses and controls black spot, powdery mildew, Rust and many other foliar fungal diseases.
  • 4-hour REI, 0-day PHI
Shop all Bonide products here

This Product Controls These Pests or Diseases: Aphids, Beet Armyworm (Spodoptera exigua (Hubner)), Black Cutworm (Agrotis ipsilon (Hufnagel)), Broccoli Worms; Imported Cabbage Worm (Pieris rapae), Cabbage loopers (Trichoplusia ni), Cabbage Moth, Cabbage Army Moth (Mamestra brassicae), Cabbage worms (Pieris rapae), California Laurel Aphid (Euthoracaphis umbellulariae), Celery Worm (Papilio polyxenes), Cherry Fruit Worm (Grapholita pacakardi), Citrus Red Scale, California Red Scale (Aonidiella aurantii), Codling Moth (Cydia pomonella), Corn Borer, Southwestern Corn Borer (Diatraea grandiosella), Diamondback moth (Plutella xylostella), Fall Armyworm (Spodoptera frugiperda), Fall Canker Worms, Inchworms (Alsophila pometaria), Flea Beetle (Chaetocnema confines), Fruit flies (Drasophylla), Fruit Worm, Grape Leaf Folder (Desmia funeralis), Grape Leafroller (Erythroneura variabilis), Greenhouse Whitefly (Trialeurodes vaporariorum), Hornworm (Manduca sp), Inch worm, Indian Meal Moth (Plodia interpunctella), Japanese Beetle (Popillia japonica Newman), Lace bugs (Corythucha sp), Leafhopper (Circulifer tenellus), Leafrollers (Archips argyrospila, Choristoneura rosaceana, Pandemis pyrusana, Epiphyas postvittana), Lucerne Moth (Nomophila noctuella), Mealybug (Pseudococcus sp), Mexican Bean Beetle (Epilachna varivestis Mulsant), Omnivorous Leafroller (Platynota stultana), Orange Tortrix (Argyrotaenia (=citrana) franciscana), Oriental Fruit Moth (Grapholitha molesta), Parsleyworm (Papilio polyxenes asterius), Pink Bollworm (Pectinophora gossypiella), Bean Jassid (Empoasca fabae), Psyllids, Red-banded Leafroller (Argyrotaenia velutinana), Sod Webworm, Sperry's Lawn Moth (Crambus sperryellus), Sweet Potato Whitefly (Bemisia tabaci), Sweetpotato Whitefly (Bemisia sp), Tarnished Plant Bug (Lygus lineolaris), Tent caterpillars (Malacosoma americanum), Thrips (Franklinothrips sp), Tobacco Budworm (Heliothis virescens), Tomato Fruitworm (Helicoverpa (Heliothis) zea), Tomato Pinworm (Keiferia lycopersicella), True Armyworm (Pseudaletia unipuncta), Walnut Caterpillar (Datana integerrima), Weevils, Whitefly

Insecticidal/Miticidal Use: Apply this product at first sign of insects/mites. For best results, repeat applications every 7-14 days. For heavy pest populations, spray on a 5-7 day schedule.

Fungicidal Use:
  • SNOW MOLD - 1:100 - 1:500 (1.0% - 0.2%) every 14 days in fall before first snow.
  • DOLLAR SPOT - 1:100 - 1:200 (1.0% - 0.5%) every 7-14 days at first sign of disease.
  • BROWN PATCH - 1:100 - 1:200 (1.0% - 0.5%) every 7-14 days at first sign of disease.



  • AS A PREVENTATIVE - Apply this product on a 7-14 day schedule until disease development is no longer present.
  • TO CONTROL DISEASE ALREADY PRESENT - Apply this product on a 7-14 day schedule until disease pressure is eliminated. The continue spraying on a 14-day schedule to prevent the disease from reoccurring.
  • TO PREVENT RUST SPOT DISEASES, ANTHRACNOSE AND SCAB begin applications at the first sign of spring budding.
  • TO PREVENT POWDERY MILDEW, apply in mid-summer or when disease is first detected. Continue applications until disease pressure no longer exists.


MIXING INSTRUCTIONS - Mix this product at the rate of 2 tablespoons (1 fl. oz.) per gallon of water. Thoroughly mix solution and spray on all plant surfaces (including undersides of leaves) until completely wet. Frequently mix solution as you spray.

Application Note: Neem oil is toxic to bees and aquatic organisms. To minimize impacts on non-target organisms, spray when pollinators are not actively foraging and avoid blossoms. Avoid spraying to the point of runoff.


Environment: Outdoors, Crops, Orchards & Vineyards, Nursery, Greenhouse, Grow Room, Hydroponics, Aquaponics, Interiorscapes, Container Plants, Houseplants

Storage: Store in original container. Store in a cool, dry place.

 

acespicoli

Well-known member

Fungus Gnats​


fungus-gnats-190.jpg

Identification & Appearance:
Fungus Gnats (Orfelia and Bradysia) are gray to black, mosquito-like insects that prefer warm, humid conditions. Due to this preference, fungus gnats are a prevalent pest in greenhouse and indoor growing settings as well as in outdoor potted plants. Common egg-laying sites include moist organic debris/potting soil, decaying wood (mulch), and ground cover plants. Adults measure 1/8 to 1/10 inches long (about the size of a common gnat) and they are distinguished from another greenhouse pest, the shore fly, by their long antennae. Fungus gnat larvae, the damaging life stage, are worm-like and clear to white in color. In large infestations the fungus gnat larvae leave slime trails on the growing medium's surface similar to that of slugs & snails.
Fungus Gnat Life Cycle:
Fungus gnats mature through four life stages: egg, larva, pupa, and adult. Eggs are laid in damp media where they hatch within 3 days at 75°F. Hatched larvae feed on a variety of organic matter: decaying material in the media, fungi, or root hairs. Feeding occurs for about 10 days after which larvae pupate. Adults emerge after 4 days and reproduce shortly thereafter.
Damage Symptoms:
Symptoms of fungus gnat infestations are sudden wilting, poor growth, chlorosis (yellowing), and foliage loss. After hatching, fungus gnat larvae promptly begin feeding. Their feeding can cause significant root damage and severely inhibit nutrient uptake. Additionally, these feeding areas can become entrances for soil-borne diseases. The resulting damage commonly shows up as nutrient and/or water deficiency brought about by decreased root absorption. Adult fungus gnats do not damage plants; however, they can vector diseases like Pythium, Fusarium and Verticilium.
Controlling Fungus Gnats:
  • Monitor your growing area for presence of adult fungus gnats using yellow sticky traps. Adding Melissa oil to the traps has shown improved results in attracting fungus gnats.
  • Control soil moisture by using soil mixtures with proper drainage. Avoid overwatering to minimize breeding habitat.
  • Preventive and corrective applications of Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis products kills larvae before they can pupate. Aquabac and Mosquito Bits can be used similarly to control and/or suppress fungus gnat populations.
  • Apply Nemattack, Sf to the growing media. The beneficial nematodes will parasitize existing fungus gnat larvae, slow their feeding and kill them.
  • S. scimitus (H. miles) helps break up the life cycle and eventually controls fungus gnat infestations by feeding on larvae and pupae. This small mite also feeds on thrips pupae and springtails.
 

acespicoli

Well-known member

Whitefly​

1696379758175.png

Botanical & Biological Controls For Whiteflies

Whiteflies ("whitefly" or "white fly") are common pests of indoor crops, greenhouses and tomatoes. Seasonal pests in most outdoor areas, whiteflies can be found year-round in southern states or enclosed growing areas (greenhouses, hoop houses, grow tents). Their rapid reproduction rate makes them difficult to control once established. Many varieties have also developed chemical resistances, making certain chemical controls ineffective. In addition to the physical damage they cause, whitefly infestations and the honeydew they produce can harbor sooty molds that reduce plant vigor causing unnecessary stress to the plant and the grower.
Identification & Prevention:
Growers often spot them by the plume of whiteflies that take flight after disturbing an infested plant. By this point, control is difficult to achieve. Early identification can be done by placing yellow sticky traps around the growing area (pay attention to susceptible crops) and monitoring the undersides of leaves. Whiteflies tend to cluster and are much easier to spot in groups. Another indicator that whiteflies are around is honeydew on the leaves. It appears shiny and is sticky to the touch. Remove honeydew by wiping leaves with Green Cleaner or a diluted alcohol solution.
How To Control A Whitefly Problem:
  1. Carefully inspect new plants before transplanting. Dip foliage and root ball in soapy water to clean and kill any existing whitefly eggs, nymphs or adults.
  2. Release Green Lacewing early in the season so larvae can feed on whitefly eggs or nymphs before the infestation becomes severe.
  3. For high whitefly populations, release specialized predators & parasites for best control. E. formosa and E. eremicus are species-specific parasites effective in many environments. A. swirkii are predatory mites effective in warm, humid areas.
  4. Beauveria bassiana sprays (BotaniGard 22WP, BioCeres WP) are effective for ongoing control of whiteflies in gardens or commercial growing. They use the fungus to slow feeding/reproduction and kill the infected pests. Using biorational control sprays also helps limit environmental impacts on non-target organisms like bees and pollinators.
  5. If necessary, knockdown sprays of contact insecticides will quickly reduce whitefly numbers. Repeat applications may be necessary as most sprays have little residual impact.
    • Neem Oil is a growth and feeding inhibitor commonly used by organic gardeners for general pest control.
    • Pyrethrins sprays are excellent for rapid reduction of large pest populations, but should not be applied to flowering plants.
    • Horticultural Oils are an effective knockdown for use in-season and for controlling overwintering or dormant life stages.
  6. Make sure to clean everything in the greenhouse with OxiDate or SaniDate between growing seasons. Soil drenches may be needed to control overwintering pests and/or diseases.
 
Top