Bobby_Stainless
Member
It was a Tester pack from House of Love. They call it OG13.
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Colorado Growers Thread
- Thread starter aceofspades
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It was a Tester pack from House of Love. They call it OG13.
There's an ongoing experiment w/ weed seeds (weeds, not weed) that was started in 1879. Quite kewl, I think-
http://www.amjbot.org/content/89/8/1285.full
Dunno that their methods would work w/ cannabis but it def shows that seeds can remain viable for a long, long time if they're treated right.
Like yours, mine stay in the fridge in tupperware w/ dessicant beads. 3 year old seeds germ just fine.
LakeEffect
Member
Long time lurker/learner here at IC
getting back into growing here in Colorado Springs. Started a thread for my cab build and the grow
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=7236413#post7236413
any feedback/advice is great!
getting back into growing here in Colorado Springs. Started a thread for my cab build and the grow
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=7236413#post7236413
any feedback/advice is great!
So then the question would be, When using a fridge to store your seed, what is the length of time that can pass before you see a decrees in seeds germinating or no germination. If you have made any seeds, you can be sure that they are fresher then packs of seeds from some seed breeder that you had ordered since we don't always know how old the seed packs are.
That said I have some older seed pack in my fridge That are getting older by the day.
That said I have some older seed pack in my fridge That are getting older by the day.
mayorofthdesert
Active member
I've heard (here at ic) about some very old beans sprouting, I'm thinking over 20 years. I think more important than the age is how they were stored and the vitality of the seeds themselves via thier genetics.
I use a sprouting seed tea to give old seeds a nice enzyme and growth hormone bath... along with some scarification it helps, but I think the most important factor is drying the seeds properly after harvesting and before sealing them up in a container... I believe small amounts of moisture inside the seeds renders them useless more rapidly. I've recently taken to treating my seeds with a pinch of DE... not only to dry the insides of the seeds a bit more, but also to guarantee that no hitchhikers can survive on the seeds in transit...
things like hemp russets and broads can hitchhike... treating new seeds you get in is as smart as having a quarantine for new clones in my opinion.
things like hemp russets and broads can hitchhike... treating new seeds you get in is as smart as having a quarantine for new clones in my opinion.
You may well be right, Sea. A bit of DE won't hurt the seeds, that's for sure. I don't know enough about those beasties' life cycle to understand if a few months in the fridge will make any difference, either, or if DE has any effect on eggs.
I've avoided clones just for the reasons you offer. I may never grow any of the elites but I sure as hell don't want the highly resistant pests that some growers have. Once established, I'm sure they're hell to eradicate. I've given up on eradicating fungus gnats, for example, & have settled for controlling them with gnatrol. They're not nearly as difficult or destructive as other pests that some growers battle constantly, I'm sure.
pop enough seeds and you'll find new "elites" all of your own....
rove beetles eat just about everything... including cannibalizing their own in absence of prey...
they will make gnats unnoticeable, but there will be a balance and gnats will still exist. gnatrol will be unnecessary.
they also love to hunt and eat root aphids and go up to 18 inches deep that I've seen personally at transplant in my big pots.
http://www.evergreengrowers.com/fun...aria-fungus-gnat-control/atheta-coriaria.html
S
SooperSmurph
Not to mention that gnats have a much easier time entering the grow than something like a mite which has to catch a ride on a plant or animal, no matter how seriously you nuke the lil bastards, they'll almost always be back.
I personally use the Mosquito Dunks you get from home & garden stores or a little azamax in the rootzone drench to keep their population to a minimum, but like you said, there always seem to be one or two around to get stuck on the traps.
R
!RA!
My 2 Cents on Gnats
My 2 Cents on Gnats
I've found that using 1/4" layer of plain old sand as mulch traps most of the little bastards and keeps them in the soil instead of becoming flyers. Since I switched from bark mulch to sand the number of flyers is way down, not 100% gone mind you, but noticeably down.
My 2 Cents on Gnats
I've found that using 1/4" layer of plain old sand as mulch traps most of the little bastards and keeps them in the soil instead of becoming flyers. Since I switched from bark mulch to sand the number of flyers is way down, not 100% gone mind you, but noticeably down.
Photosynthesis
Member
After a break from them, I have switched back to using nematodes to help control gnats. They control other things as well, but the gnats are fucking annoying. 
^^^not just that, those gnats are vectors for things like mites, which are small enough to hitchhike on a gnat.
Bobby_Stainless
Member
Couple inches of perlite on top worked for me when I was in CA.
I have not had any problems here.
I have not had any problems here.
You may be right. OTOH, I figure that growing from seed means whatever pests I get are probably Colorado natives, not Californicated marijuana grow adapted super bugs. I'll pass on them if I can.
Bobby_Stainless
Member
Thats awesome^
My seedlings are lovin it.
My seedlings are lovin it.
S
SooperSmurph
Anyone else switching over to green led Christmas strings as nighttime lighting for their flower space? Loving the switch from green flouresents, they can hang where they're needed,, less total wattage etc.
I think that's Mile's steez
been a trick up my sleeve for the past couple years
I never thought about those. The only green flouresent bulbs that I can ever find around here are the compact screw in bulb, can't say I've ever seen a 4 ft green flouresent bulb before.
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