-
As of today ICMag has his own Discord server. In this Discord server you can chat, talk with eachother, listen to music, share stories and pictures...and much more. Join now and let's grow together! Join ICMag Discord here! More details in this thread here: here.
CMH vs LED vs HPS
- Thread starter Gerardbutler79
- Start date
Ca++
Well-known member
@greyfader
At the same light level, the higher blue in LED is said to open the stomata more. Looking at that chlorophyll, the extra Carbon this gathers is as important as the extra Mg and N. It's perhaps that Carbon driving the production foremost, as it's Mg and N we see deficient, as other things presumably get ahead without them.
I totally agree though, that a peak ppf reading isn't a great benchmark. We really need to look at all points, before saying how lit the crop is. Recently I put my meter away, and just started to do the ppf emission math, rather than spot measurements. A bit like the old skool 'watts' approach. Where the lamp is measured, not the plants. Which stems from the watt meter plugged in the wall. This umol over the whole crop calculation, has some merit beside spot measurements.
At the same light level, the higher blue in LED is said to open the stomata more. Looking at that chlorophyll, the extra Carbon this gathers is as important as the extra Mg and N. It's perhaps that Carbon driving the production foremost, as it's Mg and N we see deficient, as other things presumably get ahead without them.
I totally agree though, that a peak ppf reading isn't a great benchmark. We really need to look at all points, before saying how lit the crop is. Recently I put my meter away, and just started to do the ppf emission math, rather than spot measurements. A bit like the old skool 'watts' approach. Where the lamp is measured, not the plants. Which stems from the watt meter plugged in the wall. This umol over the whole crop calculation, has some merit beside spot measurements.
O-HAZE GOLLI LED. HLG/MARS 1300w total between the 2. . I'm learning more ea run how to keep them as happy as under CMH. These plants are +7' tall..
hammer... i like them thin leaves.... actually luv em.... BUT.. at 7feet, how will the bottoms get any lite???.. outdoors, no problem... indoors???
greyfader
Well-known member
all light hitting the green aerial parts of the plant is cumulative in nature and since it's one plant, one organism, the energy produced from light is routed around the plant to the parts that get less actual direct light.
hammer's plant has a very open architecture and there is little shading.
i would like to see this plant at harvest, please. i bet he gets nice nugs way down low on this plant.
greyfader
Well-known member
i think all plants do better with side lighting. in nature, most plants are side lit most of the time.
it's the norm, not the exception.
i grew with vertical hps bulbs around vertical, large plants and got great yields.
i am working on a led fixture designed for one plant that will side-light the plant with little shading.
When I'm setting up my room my goal is to light the room. The plants get light from all fixtures. I still need to move the 1KW CMH to the center of the room, just been lazy getting that done. I've always grown trees, not shrubs/canopies. I know how to do that well. As ive said countless times the grower is the most important part of growing quality cannabis. After 50 years of growing countless varieties, it's 2nd nature. The hardest part for me was figuring out what LED requires to grow the same as CMH. It can be very discouraging if not committed.
This is p420 but got topped so she is less than 6' tall @75 days. The plants above are from seed 1st run O-haze Golli not trained. I don't have any issues with the lowers not getting enough light. This plant is in the same area as Ohaze. I should add I don't like tall plants. I have the headspace to grow them but there harder to manage. I prefer less than 6' tall.
p420 #28 SEED PLANT=(N-Haze x O-Haze) x (THH x A5hbx x Mac)
Planned Setup
Current setup
P420 #28 CLONE RUN NOT TOPPED +7'..
Last edited:
Ca++
Well-known member
I like the idea of linear tubes (flo replacements) where space in very limited. In part, because the spread is great, with no one part so bright that it can't be almost touching. Which is where the tube makes sense. You can easily wipe them down. No other lighting makes much sense as interlighting, if you really want to get the light in there. That's the commercial approach with tomato's. Lights straight through them, not around them. We would get them filthy though.
Edit: Canes, or tubes. It's thought provoking, if nothing else.
Last edited:
I seem to have fewer issues w/ bit lower temps I shoot for 75-80.
Beautiful plant! Well done. And that light layout is crazy cool. You’ve got your bases covered.
Ca++
Well-known member
Heating in winter will change soon. A new (to us) device is coming. The air2air heat exchanger. Building codes are starting to recognise that kitchen&bathroom extractors are chucking out lots of heat. They are demanding a degree of recovery. Using the exhaust heat to add at least some heat to the inlet air. Many of us have the stuff laying about to build such a thing.
That's going to be familiar to distillers. There is a pipe runs straight through the middle, and out each end. Around this pipe, is a jacket. If you exhaust through one fluid route, and bring air in the other, you have a heat exchanger. You can only reach equilibrium, but that could be quite a gain. Just perhaps, your exhaust was 30c and your inlet a chilly 20c. Now both could be 25c.
So.. how to do this for free?
With LEDs lower heat, and the rising costs of energy, we might need to start thinking about this more.
These are starting to appear more often in domestic settings, where we might find them in the low $100s
It's a plate type heat exchanger.
The two airflows are kept separate. Lots of contact area through. So compact.
Edit: Running 4" exhausts, quite low through winter? Old truck intercoolers can have quite a bore size. Or even high performance car ones. A couple of fans on one, and at least you wouldn't be sending out air, hotter than your room. If you can box one up for warming the inlet air through it, then you have made that plate heat exchanger, using scrap.
That's going to be familiar to distillers. There is a pipe runs straight through the middle, and out each end. Around this pipe, is a jacket. If you exhaust through one fluid route, and bring air in the other, you have a heat exchanger. You can only reach equilibrium, but that could be quite a gain. Just perhaps, your exhaust was 30c and your inlet a chilly 20c. Now both could be 25c.
So.. how to do this for free?
With LEDs lower heat, and the rising costs of energy, we might need to start thinking about this more.
These are starting to appear more often in domestic settings, where we might find them in the low $100s
It's a plate type heat exchanger.
The two airflows are kept separate. Lots of contact area through. So compact.
Edit: Running 4" exhausts, quite low through winter? Old truck intercoolers can have quite a bore size. Or even high performance car ones. A couple of fans on one, and at least you wouldn't be sending out air, hotter than your room. If you can box one up for warming the inlet air through it, then you have made that plate heat exchanger, using scrap.
Last edited:
chiesesganja
Well-known member
chiesesganja
Well-known member
San light led . I think hps cmh and led both r good lights .but the outcome is different…hard to say which one is better than other ….
Hiddenjems
Well-known member
At many places on the globe you can easily get more photons into your plants indoors than out.
Not something that matters to me. The sun cant be duplicated indoors.
Ca++
Well-known member
Many tiered indoor veg farms are shutting up shop. They finally figured out the problem with their plan. They are paying for light, which is free outdoors. Europe's biggest group just followed suit, but shut before bankruptcy. They are picking up sticks, and moving where electricity is cheap, food is expensive. If they really think about it, they could add farming normally is difficult to that list. Dubai and such, seems the place for indoor veg racks. Not somewhere with arable land and free light, where you just can't compete.
Cannabis needs a shake up. I like the hydro grows in desert areas, near the coast for water extraction. Or areas like Spain. Israel has good heat and humidity. I'm really not feeling big operations in cold climates, that use loads of non-renewable power. It's just not the solution in a global market. They could grow ice cubes or something.
Cannabis needs a shake up. I like the hydro grows in desert areas, near the coast for water extraction. Or areas like Spain. Israel has good heat and humidity. I'm really not feeling big operations in cold climates, that use loads of non-renewable power. It's just not the solution in a global market. They could grow ice cubes or something.
Hiddenjems
Well-known member
My point is the sun can’t be duplicated even outdoors. It’s very location dependent.
Have you even seen glass?
Ca++
Well-known member
We can do 3 a year under glass in the UK. The middle grow it's just in the way, and the other two grows need heat and light input.
It is useful where loosing light to gain some heat, improves things. Though the product then won't be great without lighting. So it's not really an option, if you want a proper 'under the sun' grow. Where in general, you want all the sun. Not 70% of it. If you need glass, then you don't have enough sun for our crop. There is no middle ground.
You don't need glass, or you need glass and lights.
It is useful where loosing light to gain some heat, improves things. Though the product then won't be great without lighting. So it's not really an option, if you want a proper 'under the sun' grow. Where in general, you want all the sun. Not 70% of it. If you need glass, then you don't have enough sun for our crop. There is no middle ground.
You don't need glass, or you need glass and lights.
