that looks like the right one!Is this the stuff I should use, I noticed my label is a different color, can anyone verify this for me, thanks View attachment 283592
that looks like the right one!Is this the stuff I should use, I noticed my label is a different color, can anyone verify this for me, thanks View attachment 283592
OK awesome aligee, much appreciated! I haven't had clone failure in a long time but lost 2 batches in a bubble cloner and this sounds like the next step to try. It's been 5 days using the recipe on the first page of this thread and clones look healthy and no slime so my fingers are crossed. I think I even see a few root bumps so I'm stoked. Can I also use this in a ebb n gro bucket system res? I'd like to keep a sterile res and use this in replace of bleachthat looks like the right one!
OK awesome aligee, much appreciated! I haven't had clone failure in a long time but lost 2 batches in a bubble cloner and this sounds like the next step to try. It's been 5 days using the recipe on the first page of this thread and clones look healthy and no slime so my fingers are crossed. I think I even see a few root bumps so I'm stoked. Can I also use this in a ebb n gro bucket system res? I'd like to keep a sterile res and use this in replace of bleach
Can anybody recommend a chlorine tester that is simple to use and accurate? I just setup after cleaning everything, tubes and all. I filled my res with 40 gallons and setup my aquarium heater to 68 degrees in preparation for transplant the next day or so.
The aquarium heater isn't working right, it ignored my setting of 68 degrees and heated my water up to 90 and I didn't notice for 2 days. So the heater itself already had slime growing on it (I used a little bit more than the recommended dosage of chlorine so now I feel like I need to be using more, but don't want to kill my plants. My water doesn't have any chlorine to begin-with, and without a way of testing I don't want to start throwing in more every 3 days and end up killing them.
fas dpd titration. this is what you want.
http://www.amazon.com/Taylor-K-1515...e=UTF8&qid=1426056722&sr=8-2&keywords=fas+dpd
if you search for my name and fas dpd you will find some post i made a while back about this.
Would you mind posting it again? I couldn't find it and would like to hear more about this. Thanks
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]what is GM ZONE made of? i looked up their msds a while back but none of the ingrediants were listed, meaning they are not considered a serious hazard.
link:
http://www.amazon.com/Taylor-K-1515-...rds=taylor+DPD
taylor products are legit, in the pool community at least. you can get refill reagents should you loose one, or run out, at any warehouse pool supply place. Leslie pools do not cary taylor products... they carry something different. i do not think the refill reagents from leslies are compatable.
there are cheaper test kits for sure... as low as 10 bucks infact. but this is an FAS DPD test... it will read well over 10ppm, to 50 ppm infact, though i have never gone that heigh to verify... its also ALOT easier to read... you basically add the titrant to the solution you prepair and add up the drops untill the equivalence point is reached, where after the solution turns perfectly clear.
the reg DPD kits... they turn shades of yellow and pink and all kinds of shit from what i remember. i haven't used one in years and years... but i recall them being stupid as fuck.
highly reccomend the fas dpd...
regarding chlorine. i recommend either calcium hypochlorite or bleach solution. Dichlor and trichlor disassociate yielding cyanuric acid as well as HClO, which you do not need. it also costs marginally more.
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[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]hm. no such "kit" exists as far as i know. i know what you are saying tho. like a standard testing procedure backed up by the EPA or some such thing.
the taylor reagent kits are the most popular kits with the pool folks. the reagents are all replaceable... the instructions are heavily waterproofed, its just a nice put together kit. the one i used and still use for years now is the 2006. its like 70 bucks new maby more now... but you dont need 90% of what it includes. hadness reagents, cyanuric acid, acid demand and ph testers etc.
DPD based reagents are the standard means to test chlorine. there ARE standards for particular applications like in waste water treatment systems. but this is usually with respect to equipment specifications. i cannot comment on other industries, as water and waste water treatment are the only ones i have firsthand experience with.
HAACH and other companies provide colorimetric chlorine analyzers and all sorts of expensive fun equipment for that task. far and away over kill for this task. if you want steady state chlorine dosing, just get a solenoid pump. hell even a syringe pump would work.
there are some other means to monitor chlorine levels, such as the ampeometric sensors(ORP), but they are problematic for a number of reasons. also expensive, and more suited for online monitoring of a critical process like an aeration basin or lagoon or some such thing.
TLDR
just get that kit i linked. taylor products are pretty much the standard the whole pool community recommends.[/FONT]
Would you mind posting it again? I couldn't find it and would like to hear more about this. Thanks
regarding calculations of free chlorine, just use the online calculators. though keep in mind that ph has a great effect on free chlorine.Does anyone know: if you add 1 oz of shock solution per 5 gallons as described on page 1, how many ppms does that end up being of chlorine? What is the approx ppm after 3 days?
regarding calculations of free chlorine, just use the online calculators. though keep in mind that ph has a great effect on free chlorine.
http://www.handymath.com/cgi-bin/chlorined3.cgi?submit=Entry
its impossible to say what the residual chlorine value would be in three days... as this all depends on a shit load of variables.
you need a test kit find free chlorine concentrations.
Thanks man. Test kit ordered, I was just hoping somebody had one already and could give me a ballpark. I have zero idea what concentration of calcium hypochlorite results from using the pool shock cloner formula or stock solution as provided here, so the calculator isn't going to help me much unless I know that.
I think you guys may need to step back for a second and consider something... throwing all of this money in testers and whatnot for pool supplies, grab a proper pH pen and that's it. I water directly from a well with some HARD fucking water, and I can say cloning became 1000 times easier when I stopped over thinking it.
Water, some form of material to root into, and SMALL amounts of light are all that's needed.
Personally have found root riot cubes to be the best for my situation, fuck cloning gel as mentioned above, I picked up rooting powder at ace hardware for a buck a jar and it gives me 95 to 100% success for 2 years now.
Get the trays with the squares in them that the root riot cubes recess into, as well as 5he giant open rectangle tray meant to be filled with water to water the cuts.
Place perlite in big watering tray, water down with pH water, then place cloning tray over it, clones in cubes, and dome with both vents fully open and the base of the dome NOT fully seated, but instead slightly askew to allow air in through the bottom.
No more than a single 28 watt t8 per 50 clone tray, or 4' 53 watt t5 per 3 trays.
Any questions feel free to pm me or ask here.
Btw, biting the bullet on a good pH meter now will only save you so many headaches later. Best 100 bucks spent hands down.