Cheap Nutrient Line for Commercial and Home Grows?

[Ca++]

6%? I didn't see that coming.
1g in 10L would be 6ppm, so in 4L (1usg) is about 15, and you are putting 3 in.. about 45ppm Mg
45ppm Mg should be fine in just about any media. Past 60 is getting a bit sketchy, and 80 is where some plants start dropping yield.

Lets just look at that 1 (of the 321)
It's about 10% Mg isn't it? (it's been a while) So again, 1g in 10L=10ppm. Makes 1g in 4L about 25ppm more. Plus the sulphur. 16% right? Maybe 40ppm of that.

Looking at a table another growers posted (on another site) the 3 of jacks gives 51 and the ES 26, making 77ppm Mg. IIRC it's 3.8L in a G, so they are probably on the money.
It is high, and I can see how some might leave the ES out, or half dose it. Or need more Ca than the 100ppm, in soft/ro water situations

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

For me, I try to listen to the plants.

I read mine and make my gardening decisions based on many years of experience with all kinds of plant material. What to grow good cannabis? Then learn how to grow veggies, orchids, cactus, avocado, citrus, olives, legume crops, trees......... That experience is transferable.

UB

 

[Hiddenjems]

Max dosage of Ohaze lines is 1.2ec.

I am running a mix of modern day hybrids Sour D, SFV, an Indica and another hybrid. I am going to flush and refill using only jacks an mr fulvic at .5ml. I'll report back. I seem to always have issues in veg non dependent of nutes. I think its one of 3 things, too much light, plants arent ready for 1.2 or they need more. Last time this happend I was feeding too low an ec. Maybe its that but going to flush first and I already turned the hps down to 50% incase.

It’s really easy to cook plants in veg, especially with a 20 or 24 hour day period. Cannabis will take a really high Dli, but it has its limits.

 

[sublingual]

I read mine and make my gardening decisions based on many years of experience with all kinds of plant material. What to grow good cannabis? Then learn how to grow veggies, orchids, cactus, avocado, citrus, olives, legume crops, trees......... That experience is transferable.

UB

I agree with you and do know how to grow some veggies and legumes. I can't stop to learn how to grow everything since I am an old man (early 70's). I did study how to grow herbs which have different requirements that fruiting veggies. I think Cannabis is closest in requirements similar to rosemary and other secreting herbs. These want low nutes most of the time and don't like to be overwatered. The plants I grow seem to like dry backs but not uneven watering (If that makes sense). I never water to run off either; in veg and after transplanting I do, but not in later flowering.

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

I agree with you and do know how to grow some veggies and legumes. I can't stop to learn how to grow everything since I am an old man (early 70's). I did study how to grow herbs which have different requirements that fruiting veggies. I think Cannabis is closest in requirements similar to rosemary and other secreting herbs. These want low nutes most of the time and don't like to be overwatered. The plants I grow seem to like dry backs but not uneven watering (If that makes sense). I never water to run off either; in veg and after transplanting I do, but not in later flowering.

I'm 74, so don't feel bad.....except in the back, sore feet.........

Only problem with drying the root ball is establishing its water holding capacity. PITA

You should always drench until you get good run off.

UB

 

[LostTribe]

After dialing down the hps they are greener. I reset the rez at 1.3 ph keeps jumping but I dont see why. Temp is 74F other than that not sure. I was thinking to go sterile rez but have read that chlorine can cause fulvic and humics to breakdown into carginogens.

Guess Mr. Fulvic would have to be discontinued if I went with Pool shock or bleach. What about hypochloric Acid like in Athena Clense or UC roots? H202?

Dont know why PH is shifting up so badly. This happend last time in PBP. I used cannazyme fist week before this rez change to clean up the hydroton. Wondering if the enzymes breaking down the root matter is shifting ph? Root look good and nice and white though. I just swapped out to different buckets as my old setup was leaking and I am over the leaks.

They are green again though so I think the light color was too much light.

 

[sublingual]

I'm 74, so don't feel bad.....except in the back, sore feet.........

Only problem with drying the root ball is establishing its water holding capacity. PITA

You should always drench until you get good run off.

UB

If you drench, then it seems uneven watering will bite you. I don't have all the answers but it seems finding the plants watering needs daily should work fine. For example, I have a plant that is happy with a half gallon a day although it's in 5 gallons coco. Another plant gets 3 quarts every other day in 3 gallon pots. I'll probably give it a quart and a half every day from now on as it started wilting slightly on the every other day schedule. I was stressing it a bit harder but will back off now as it is developing seeds for me. Drought stress has shown to produce increased resin.

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

If you drench, then it seems uneven watering will bite you. I don't have all the answers but it seems finding the plants watering needs daily should work fine. For example, I have a plant that is happy with a half gallon a day although it's in 5 gallons coco. Another plant gets 3 quarts every other day in 3 gallon pots. I'll probably give it a quart and a half every day from now on as it started wilting slightly on the every other day schedule. I was stressing it a bit harder but will back off now as it is developing seeds for me. Drought stress has shown to produce increased resin.

Drenching insures everything is wet. Good runoff is a must.

Coco fiber does not have quite the repelling problem that most peat or pine bark based mixes have. Doesn't matter, when I water I do it thoroughly. Here's another benny of using Osmocote. You can leach as much as you want but the constant feeding works well with heavy flushing, the plants will be fed, slowly, as nature designed it. Plus you don't need to screw around with anything else....unless you're forum Herd Nerd. (just kidding)

As an aside, coco does have a watering repelling property when new. Then when it degrades it breaks down into a nasty mush like medium, holding too much moisture. Usually by then your crop is done. My experience was with orchids.

I make my own soil in bulk with whatever I happen to have stockpiled. No big deal.



UB

 

[LostTribe]

After dialing down the hps they are greener. I reset the rez at 1.3 ph keeps jumping but I dont see why. Temp is 74F other than that not sure. I was thinking to go sterile rez but have read that chlorine can cause fulvic and humics to breakdown into carginogens.

Guess Mr. Fulvic would have to be discontinued if I went with Pool shock or bleach. What about hypochloric Acid like in Athena Clense or UC roots? H202?

Dont know why PH is shifting up so badly. This happend last time in PBP. I used cannazyme fist week before this rez change to clean up the hydroton. Wondering if the enzymes breaking down the root matter is shifting ph? Root look good and nice and white though. I just swapped out to different buckets as my old setup was leaking and I am over the leaks.

They are green again though so I think the light color was too much light.

Bumpity Bump.

 

[jackspratt61]

Bumpity Bump.

Ph rising,ec lowering?

 

[LostTribe]

Ph rising,ec lowering?

Its rising from 5.5 to 6.3 overnight. Well yesterday. The day before it was 5.2 to 6.2. Everyday its happening. I swapped out my system and its still doing it. Roots were white and healthy when I swapped them over. My buckets were leaking.

I added the silica blast last but this time i diluted it first. I thought it might have been from the oil but it looks like dust sort of vs oily. Sort of white. I guess I can Dump and not use the silica to see if that does the trick. Thats the easiest to see if thats the cause I suppose?? If not I can run sterile for a while without the fulvic. So I guess dump and just use RO and jacks 321 for a week to see. If the ph and film still come back I can add in the pool shock or bleach.

 

[sublingual]

Drenching insures everything is wet. Good runoff is a must.

Coco fiber does not have quite the repelling problem that most peat or pine bark based mixes have. Doesn't matter, when I water I do it thoroughly. Here's another benny of using Osmocote. You can leach as much as you want but the constant feeding works well with heavy flushing, the plants will be fed, slowly, as nature designed it. Plus you don't need to screw around with anything else....unless you're forum Herd Nerd. (just kidding)

As an aside, coco does have a watering repelling property when new. Then when it degrades it breaks down into a nasty mush like medium, holding too much moisture. Usually by then your crop is done. My experience was with orchids.

I make my own soil in bulk with whatever I happen to have stockpiled. No big deal.

View attachment 18910917

UB

We will have to disagree and that's cool. I am experimenting with dry cycles and it works for me. I only grow in coco and try to understand it. I used to be strictly organic in pots and that was folly, at least for me. Sure, I grew good bud and spent a pretty penny getting everything balanced. It was mostly a struggle and slow grow and development compared to what I achieve with salts and coco. Also, I never grow leafy plants, they want too much water. So, good genetics with a high flower to leaf ratio that like it on the dry side.

 

[jackspratt61]

Its rising from 5.5 to 6.3 overnight. Well yesterday. The day before it was 5.2 to 6.2. Everyday its happening. I swapped out my system and its still doing it. Roots were white and healthy when I swapped them over. My buckets were leaking.

I added the silica blast last but this time i diluted it first. I thought it might have been from the oil but it looks like dust sort of vs oily. Sort of white. I guess I can Dump and not use the silica to see if that does the trick. Thats the easiest to see if thats the cause I suppose?? If not I can run sterile for a while without the fulvic. So I guess dump and just use RO and jacks 321 for a week to see. If the ph and film still come back I can add in the pool shock or bleach.

What is ec doing?

 

[LostTribe]

What is ec doing?

Staying put. They are small and not using much water just yet.

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

We will have to disagree and that's cool. I am experimenting with dry cycles and it works for me.

That's like disagreeing on whether the sky is blue. It's a physical property that will happen, and when roots find dry channels they will die if that condition is prolonged. Surely not functional.

Watering Hydrophobic Soil

Many potting soils repel water when they dry out, and are difficult to re-wet. Here's why and what you can do about it.

mgsantaclara.ucanr.edu

The reason why water culture often induces faster growing plants is because the roots are constantly immersed in a nutritious fluid bed. I duplicate that while using soil as my medium.

Good luck

 

[ZK7]

I am going to experiment with some

-Yara Kristalon brown 3-11-38
-YaraTera CALCINIT (15.5% N + 26.3% CaO
- Yara Krista MG

Using these with medium-hard tap water in rdwc (UK) any recommendations would be helpful, this is an amazing thread full of knowledge and I've read every page, unfortunately cannot get Jacks over here easily.

 

[Ca++]

Quite a bit of K there. Some plants won't like it
About 3-5-30 in elemental form. If you get your P to 60ppm, your K will be 360, which is double where many researchers are settling.

Masterblend are in the EU. Not as soluble as you might like, but better numbers

Edit: The calnit use to get the N up, will bring Ca to match up with the K perhaps, but then the Mg will need to match, and that group will be quite strong. In coco, I wouldn't dream of it. Maybe in other grows though. I wouldn't be inclined to try though

 

[ZK7]

Masterblend is much more expensive so I went with Yara

I guess it will be a case of trial and error and lots of tweaking

 

[ZK7]

What do you think about using that formula with tap water that has 250ppm calcium carbonate and 5ppm magnesium. Total ppm of tap water = 320ppm

 

[sublingual]

That's like disagreeing on whether the sky is blue. It's a physical property that will happen, and when roots find dry channels they will die if that condition is prolonged. Surely not functional.

Watering Hydrophobic Soil

Many potting soils repel water when they dry out, and are difficult to re-wet. Here's why and what you can do about it.

mgsantaclara.ucanr.edu

The reason why water culture often induces faster growing plants is because the roots are constantly immersed in a nutritious fluid bed. I duplicate that while using soil as my medium.

Good luck

What do you think about using that formula with tap water that has 250ppm calcium carbonate and 5ppm magnesium. Total ppm of tap water = 320ppm

Hi ZK7,
I think you should be fine with Yara and your water.