Cheap Nutrient Line for Commercial and Home Grows?

[Old Uncle Ben]

There won't be any "gain", if you mean bulk if you don't have healthy productive leaves until the end.

That's just simple botany.

You will always have Da Bros who remove that production unit (de-leaf) or feed bloom foods or pure water late flowering which induces premature leaf senescence "because I read it works".

Uncle Ben

 

[LostTribe]

I've never used hydrobuddy nute calc and just tried it. Too complicated for me. Is there anything newer with jacks 321 already input into it?

I am trying to figure out if I need to adjust a and b when I add cannazym. I am going to run my old hydro system and want to use the cannazym to take care of the remaining old roots pieces that arent washed off of the hydroton. I was going to use it in veg. Might add it mid bloom for my MPK instead of the hydroplex I have on hand for the added root protection.

Guessing it shouldnt be much of an issue just adding it on top of the normal dosing.

 

[Legalcdn]

I've never used hydrobuddy nute calc and just tried it. Too complicated for me. Is there anything newer with jacks 321 already input into it?

I am trying to figure out if I need to adjust a and b when I add cannazym. I am going to run my old hydro system and want to use the cannazym to take care of the remaining old roots pieces that arent washed off of the hydroton. I was going to use it in veg. Might add it mid bloom for my MPK instead of the hydroplex I have on hand for the added root protection.

Guessing it shouldnt be much of an issue just adding it on top of the normal dosing.

Nute calculator excel. See my post #593 (page 30).

 

[marwachine]

I've never used hydrobuddy nute calc and just tried it. Too complicated for me. Is there anything newer with jacks 321 already input into it?

I am trying to figure out if I need to adjust a and b when I add cannazym. I am going to run my old hydro system and want to use the cannazym to take care of the remaining old roots pieces that arent washed off of the hydroton. I was going to use it in veg. Might add it mid bloom for my MPK instead of the hydroplex I have on hand for the added root protection.

Guessing it shouldnt be much of an issue just adding it on top of the normal dosing.

If you wanna be lazy about it you could just copy what the hydrobuddy peeps are mixing as they've already done the math. Greengenesgarden over on youtube has a pretty good explanation of this and is also sharing his recipe.

 

[indocult]

De leafing works wonders, strain dependant, uncle Ben.
Day 21 strip all big leaves,
Day 42 strip everything without trichomes.
Sure, leaving them on makes them appear fuller, but with stripping yields increase...
Lower branches become full, dense flowers, due to better light penetration (no larf), air flow is increased, lower night time humidity spikes, light reflects from the floor, harvest is as simple as chop and hang (no big leafing, it's already done)..

Grow flowers, not leaf mass.

 

[LostTribe]

De leafing works wonders, strain dependant, uncle Ben.
Day 21 strip all big leaves,
Day 42 strip everything without trichomes.
Sure, leaving them on makes them appear fuller, but with stripping yields increase...
Lower branches become full, dense flowers, due to better light penetration (no larf), air flow is increased, lower night time humidity spikes, light reflects from the floor, harvest is as simple as chop and hang (no big leafing, it's already done)..

Grow flowers, not leaf mass.

Agree. Especially with overhead lighting like LED. It allows much more light to enter the canopy.

 

[Artful Codger]

I've never used hydrobuddy nute calc and just tried it. Too complicated for me. Is there anything newer with jacks 321 already input into it?

I am trying to figure out if I need to adjust a and b when I add cannazym. I am going to run my old hydro system and want to use the cannazym to take care of the remaining old roots pieces that arent washed off of the hydroton. I was going to use it in veg. Might add it mid bloom for my MPK instead of the hydroplex I have on hand for the added root protection.

Guessing it shouldnt be much of an issue just adding it on top of the normal dosing.

I agree the Hydrobuddy interface isn't the most intuitive. I've got Jack's 3-2-1 in mine already. If you want me to run some combos for you and report back, I'd be happy to.

 

[airplane]

here are a few simple lines that you can get sample packs of
Neptune's harvest - fish . seaweed ,ect bottles of -- total of 6 products - cost $15.00
Simply professional - 2 packs - veg and bloom - cost $15.00
Dyna-Gro -- 5 bottles of _ $20.00
Elemental Nutrients - 1 base then 2 packs 1veg and 1 bloom - these are "myco" based - $10.00

Have use all with great returns (note the prices might be $5.00 higher --but still a great - one can get at least 4 runs with each

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

You're ALL over thinking this. Dyna-Gro Folage Pro from start to finish. Been using it for 30 something years. 1 part, complete nutrition without all the confusion, hype and cost.

 

[Hiddenjems]

De leafing works wonders, strain dependant, uncle Ben.
Day 21 strip all big leaves,
Day 42 strip everything without trichomes.
Sure, leaving them on makes them appear fuller, but with stripping yields increase...
Lower branches become full, dense flowers, due to better light penetration (no larf), air flow is increased, lower night time humidity spikes, light reflects from the floor, harvest is as simple as chop and hang (no big leafing, it's already done)..

Grow flowers, not leaf mass.

This doesn’t work with all strains. I’ve been running a cut for 7 years now. Total flower weight per square foot goes down with anything more than a mild Lolipop lift. It’s a 45 day strain that barely stretches yet still puts out 16-20 oz per square yard.

 

[Ca++]

You're ALL over thinking this. Dyna-Gro Folage Pro from start to finish. Been using it for 30 something years. 1 part, complete nutrition without all the confusion, hype and cost.

You're recommending a soil feed to hydro growers.
Perhaps this thread just isn't for you.

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

Glad my plants can't read. Post #65 https://www.icmag.com/threads/micro...-a-good-product.18128528/page-4#post-18447515

Grow flowers, not leaf mass.

Learn and embrace botany, not forum bullshit.

Where in the hell do you think the flowers come from?

Better leave this wretched rabbit hole alone. Wasted too much time as is.

UB

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

You're recommending a soil feed to hydro growers.
Perhaps this thread just isn't for you.

Wrong. If you could understand the concept of 16 essential elements regarding plant nutrition you'd understand that all DG foods are better than any "hydro" hype out there. It is more of a water culture food because of its very complete nutrition as opposed to most foods that deliver up to 13 elements, relying on soil nutrition to complete the plant's diet.

Post #1 is just another bunch of baloney meant to mesmerize, fool the kids. Good example being the advocate use of bloom foods (which are not necessary), insecticidal soaps which can be phytotoxic like Safer's, etc. etc.

Perhaps plant nutrition and high quality products just isn't for you.

https://zipgrow.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/Foliage-Pro-Sht-2014.pdf

Uncle Ben

 

[Ca++]

You offer a link to 'all dg foods'

all DG foods are better than any "hydro" hype out there.

Uncle Ben

You offer a link to 4 of them, and 3 have no calcium. Perhaps I'm over thinking this, but I like my plants to live. Though being cheap is still quite attractive.

Did you read what you quoted me saying

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

You offer a link to 'all dg foods'

You offer a link to 4 of them, and 3 have no calcium. Perhaps I'm over thinking this, but I like my plants to live. Though being cheap is still quite attractive.

Did you read what you quoted me saying

They compared different brands, not all DG. DG has Ca. My point being it's complete nutrition whether you're doing Coir, water culture, soil less, organic rich soil. I also use it as my primary foliar feed for my vineyard. https://zipgrow.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/Foliage-Pro-Sht-2014.pdf

So you like your plants to live. Now that is rich. Used this stuff for decades. Issue is quality and value, Dyna-Gro offers both as does Peters, ICL, Schultz. Stuff like Advanced Nutrients, Fox Farms, Botanicare, etc. is a rip catering to their target of sucker bets.

Got any links to your gardens?

Uncle Ben

 

[Ca++]

Your talk of DG products, had me thinking you posted a few. I saw yours looks wrong for hydro, before looking to the others with little interest. Now I see what they are, I see what a con this fact sheet actually is. They are saying peters has no Ca, because like this thread goes to great lengths to explain, it's not a one box solution. So presenting jacks as having stuff missing, is the poor state of affairs you point at others for.

I see you like it, not for the numbers, but for the count of entries. If that's as simple as you like things, that's fine. However, this thread is a bit more involved. I know you don't like it, but this is real

Your feeds iron is too low, made worse by the zinc being close. I would be surprised if it works in hydro or coco. These are your claims. I'm not making any that need pictures.

This is a very in depth and decent thread, primarily about hydro matters. Presented by someone that has a lot more knowledge than you appear to have, and who vanished about a year ago. Please stop shitting on his thread, with your inappropriate soil talk. If you want to stay in the 20th century, that's your call.

Why am I getting that feeling we have been here before.
Edit: Because we have. Where I showed you the 30% nh4 was no use to us. It's soil food.

 

[marwachine]

Your talk of DG products, had me thinking you posted a few. I saw yours looks wrong for hydro, before looking to the others with little interest. Now I see what they are, I see what a con this fact sheet actually is. They are saying peters has no Ca, because like this thread goes to great lengths to explain, it's not a one box solution. So presenting jacks as having stuff missing, is the poor state of affairs you point at others for.

I see you like it, not for the numbers, but for the count of entries. If that's as simple as you like things, that's fine. However, this thread is a bit more involved. I know you don't like it, but this is real
View attachment 18907733
Your feeds iron is too low, made worse by the zinc being close. I would be surprised if it works in hydro or coco. These are your claims. I'm not making any that need pictures.

This is a very in depth and decent thread, primarily about hydro matters. Presented by someone that has a lot more knowledge than you appear to have, and who vanished about a year ago. Please stop shitting on his thread, with your inappropriate soil talk. If you want to stay in the 20th century, that's your call.

Why am I getting that feeling we have been here before.
Edit: Because we have. Where I showed you the 30% nh4 was no use to us. It's soil food.

do you know greengenesgarden over on youtube? he does hydro and is pretty transparent with the way he grows. curious what's your take on his regiment.

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

Your talk of DG products, had me thinking you posted a few. I saw yours looks wrong for hydro, before looking to the others with little interest. Now I see what they are, I see what a con this fact sheet actually is. They are saying peters has no Ca, because like this thread goes to great lengths to explain, it's not a one box solution. So presenting jacks as having stuff missing, is the poor state of affairs you point at others for.

I see you like it, not for the numbers, but for the count of entries. If that's as simple as you like things, that's fine. However, this thread is a bit more involved. I know you don't like it, but this is real
View attachment 18907733
Your feeds iron is too low, made worse by the zinc being close. I would be surprised if it works in hydro or coco. These are your claims. I'm not making any that need pictures.

This is a very in depth and decent thread, primarily about hydro matters. Presented by someone that has a lot more knowledge than you appear to have, and who vanished about a year ago. Please stop shitting on his thread, with your inappropriate soil talk. If you want to stay in the 20th century, that's your call.

Why am I getting that feeling we have been here before.
Edit: Because we have. Where I showed you the 30% nh4 was no use to us. It's soil food.

What in the fuck was THAT (spin)? Fe and Zn too close, say what LOL? Let's check out the real world, not feed into some jargon intended to impress those who know no better.

Got a problem with this leaf color, health? Micros app looks pretty nice to me compared to some of the burned up yellow foliage you see around these parts. Speaking of plants, where are yours?

Old pic, taken in 2001 under one HPS and one MH.

This is not about Peters, that was just a comparison chart I threw in. If you can read, feel free to check out the DG analysis. Here, took a shot of the back label for you. Note the ammonical form of N is ammonium nitrate which a plant directly uptakes without conversion by soil fungi/microbes. I use it on my lawn, greenhouse trees/plants, as a supplement with glyphosate sprays to increase pest burn/kill, etc. As an adjunct, it increases uptake of the herbicide FWIW. Point being, it is readily taken into the plant via roots or foliage using water as a carrier.

There is no urea in Dyna-Gro. Perhaps that is where you're confused. Not that urea is bad for soil/organic culture, it's not. But you wouldn't want it in your water culture foods.

"Is ammonium nitrate good for hydroponics?

It was reported that plants fed with both ammonium and nitrate forms of nitrogen exhibit better growth and development than plants fed with ammonium or nitrate alone (Konnerup and Brix, 2010). Most plants respond with higher biomass production when a combination of both N forms is provided." https://hortamericas.com/blog/news/function-and-management-of-nitrogen-in-hydroponics/

When using ammonium nitrate exclusively the problem is one of pH adjustments.

"
What is the ratio of nitrate to ammonium in hydroponics?

For many plants – especially fruiting plants like tomatoes or cucumbers – the ideal ammonium to nitrate ratio has been established to be around 2:8 and this usually implies that pH will tend to increase as a function of time since the amount of anions absorbed will be larger.Mar 18, 2017"

Again, there are better nutritional choices that don't involve the confusion, complexity, COST, time of prep, etc. than what's been professed in this thread and most others regarding nutrition. In cannabis forums it seems the more confusing and expensive you can make this no brainer to be the more noobs fall for it. With DG, 1 tsp/gallon - done.

Sad really.

Uncle Ben

 

[Ca++]

What in the fuck was THAT (spin)? jargon intended to impress those who know no better.



Uncle Ben

Those that do know better, won't be impressed, they will just understand. Those that don't understand, I am happy to help. Those that reject it, can find their peer group elsewhere. I don't need to impress people, I need to draw people into the conversation, that I can learn from.

You are those that don't know better. You just don't realise it. You don't know what nh4 is, but are trying to tell me it's something else. People here, not only know what it is, but are chatting about different amounts of it. You are just not at this level, with your teaspoon measurements, while we are looking at PPM. Your two pics are a rosetting male and a bud pic that impresses nobody. What are they for?

Page 33 of this thread, we already had this conversation.
https://www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fpls.2022.830224/full
The only nh4 you want (once you know what it is) is 5% for water regulation. Any more and it's toxic. Look at your male, it's shorter than a girl. Your girl, with it's curling blades. These are not pics I would be sharing as proof I grow. They just show us that you found a good soil based feed decades ago, and were good in the day. Just not this day.

Please stop ruining a good thread, with your rejection of new knowledge. It's not helping your legacy.

 

[Hiddenjems]

I used to try and keep plants green as a primary goal. One particular strain I run won’t have dense buds with mostly calx and little leaf unless I damn near burn it up with nutes and light. Any other way and yield drops like a rock as buds become loose leafy clusters.