Cheap Nutrient Line for Commercial and Home Grows?

[LJ farming]

Last one for now and probably this year!

If you are mixing Salts/Jacks more than 1 gallon at a time you may want to get a $30 Magnetic Stirrer to make mixing nutes much easier!

Thank you OGBishop!!!

 

[exploziv]

Looking great LJ!

 

[Solidopc]

Canna is all ive ever used aside a few of the others. Can't beat coco a+b, rhizo, zym, pk & boost

 

[Creeperpark]

View attachment 18935910 View attachment 18935911 View attachment 18935912 View attachment 18935913 View attachment 18935914 KISS amigos aka Keep it Simple Stoner.

Bills method works great! Might need a couple minimal adjustments because nobody’s environment is the same! I started using Bills recommendations over 2 years ago and live in Comifornia! My dope is sought after period!

Not sure if Bill would approve but I lower CalNit 10% per week weeks 5-8 and add Growmore Flowering CalMag to keep the Engine running/Ca sufficient. Otherwise I follow his recommendations to a T in an 8 light COCO DTW set up.

Even more controversial I strip my bitches naked day 21-22 and never allow a leaf with a petiole on I until chop!

I guarantee all of you that my way isn’t the way but there is definitely no need for arguing or saying your way is!

Merry Christmas

Peace


LJ

Those are fricking pretty flower tops friend. Thanks for posting. Merry Christmas.

 

[Gooseman23]

Canna is all ive ever used aside a few of the others. Can't beat coco a+b, rhizo, zym, pk & boost

But you can beat it though. Always test my guy. I ran the same line up. Now following bills plan with masterblend 0-12-24 and also use tribus a use monosilicic acid instead of potassium silicate. And it works better and is cheaper for me. I’d recommend trying it out and run a side by side that’s the only way to know
Edit: at the present I am thinking of getting a different nitrogen source to add in as with my bloom only formula the only possible issue is havin to add maybe too much calcium to get N where I want it In veg. Anybody got any suggestions? I’m using a bloom only formula to veg and not really having issues vegging I just want to try to dial in as much as possible. So want to try and see Considering:
Magnesium nitrate
Ferti nitro plus
What y’all think?

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

Even more controversial I strip my bitches naked day 21-22 and never allow a leaf with a petiole on I until chop!

And you done screwed up additional potential production compared to leaving the leaves on, letting them do what they were designed to do - produce and maintain tissue.

It's just simple botany.

Happy harvest and Merry Christmas too,
UB

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

But you can beat it though. Always test my guy. I ran the same line up. Now following bills plan with masterblend 0-12-24 and also use tribus a use monosilicic acid instead of potassium silicate. And it works better and is cheaper for me. I’d recommend trying it out and run a side by side that’s the only way to know
Edit: at the present I am thinking of getting a different nitrogen source to add in as with my bloom only formula the only possible issue is havin to add maybe too much calcium to get N where I want it In veg. Anybody got any suggestions? I’m using a bloom only formula to veg and not really having issues vegging I just want to try to dial in as much as possible. So want to try and see Considering:
Magnesium nitrate
Ferti nitro plus
What y’all think?

Whatever it takes to get to a balanced NPK and not induce a nutrient antagonism issue especially regarding micros. Your call......

1 tsp. may be good, 2 tsp. is usually bad. This is why I choose simple one part, complete foods like Dyna-Gro Foliage Pro - the design and guess work has been removed from The Equation. Of course, it's cannabis specific hawk's Equations that's so damn exciting LOL!

Uncle Ben

 

[Gooseman23]

And you done screwed up additional potential production compared to leaving the leaves on, letting them do what they were designed to do - produce and maintain tissue.

It's just simple botany.

Happy harvest and Merry Christmas too,
UB

this is not true, I’ve ran side by side for myself and saw an increase in yield from defoliation flower. Specifically I defoliated right before flower, and then again day 21. This allows light to get to lower bud sights. It worked for me. I tested it on clones in Same environment same nutes, etc… this isn’t definitive as it could vary from different strains but it’s good enough for me and I recommend everybody to test it for themselves to see…

Whatever it takes to get to a balanced NPK and not induce a nutrient antagonism issue especially regarding micros. Your call......

1 tsp. may be good, 2 tsp. is usually bad. This is why I choose simple one part, complete foods like Dyna-Gro Foliage Pro - the design and guess work has been removed from The Equation. Of course, it's cannabis specific hawk's Equations that's so damn exciting LOL!

Uncle Ben

1tsp of which one? Ferti nitro or magnesium nitrate? Which do you think to try? And yes it’s true I enjoy playing with nute levels and finding the sweet spot that my plants love. Make me feel accomplished

 

[LostTribe]

Canna is all ive ever used aside a few of the others. Can't beat coco a+b, rhizo, zym, pk & boost

You dont need canna its just watered down salt. You are buying water. Had better results switching from canna to jacks.

My meters were off and I was over doing it with a high ec. They like full nutes though at 2.4ec.

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

this is not true, I’ve ran side by side for myself and saw an increase in yield from defoliation flower. Specifically I defoliated right before flower, and then again day 21. This allows light to get to lower bud sight

You saw what you wanted or expected to see. It's a common human response, confirmation bias. Of course the "technique" is backed by Cannabis Bro Science, so it's all good.

Listen to my bud -

ICMag discussion:
My post - Again, you guys are not getting it. The carbos produced are NOT localized. They are transferred throughout the plant top to bottom via the phloem. The phloem is the tissue that is responsible for the distribution of products made during photosynthesis.
The reason why you have “larf” at the bottom is based on a hormonal response called apical dominance. Auxins tend to collect and drive tissue production at the top of the plant. They will tend to get resources first. Apical dominance means that the growing apex of a plant controls the quiescence of buds sitting in lower positions along a shoot. This kind of bud inhibition is termed ‘correlative inhibition’. Correlative inhibition usually has a gradient: the lower on the shoot, the stronger the inhibition.
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/agricultural-and-biological-sciences/apical-dominance 3

Newbie stuff, not gonna waste a lot of time again. Will gift you with some botanical thought cause I'm a good guy that cares.

Start at the bottom (April 8) and work your way up.

Defoliation vs No(little) defoliation

@OldUncleBen They are beauties. I love that leaf definition. They remind me of a Purple Kush I took around Christmas. I didn’t defoliate her at all except for the very bottoms so I could feed and water. No larf at all on her and the nugs were very dense. Nice smoke. She grew really slow, but I...

overgrow.com

And in your spare time plant a fruit tree and watch fruit set deep in the canopy mature and ripen in the shade - avocado, mango, citrus, pear, apple, cannabis.......it's all the same.

Uncle Ben

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

You dont need canna its just watered down salt. You are buying water. Had better results switching from canna to jacks.

My meters were off and I was over doing it with a high ec. They like full nutes though at 2.4ec.

Started using Jack's for orchid growing back in the 70's. Had many a talk with Jack himself. Still have quite a few left over 25# bags. Just a thought, if you need a quick green up the Petunia FeED delivers.

UB

 

[Gooseman23]

You saw what you wanted or expected to see. It's a common human response, confirmation bias. Of course the "technique" is backed by Cannabis Bro Science, so it's all good.

Listen to my bud -

ICMag discussion:
My post - Again, you guys are not getting it. The carbos produced are NOT localized. They are transferred throughout the plant top to bottom via the phloem. The phloem is the tissue that is responsible for the distribution of products made during photosynthesis.
The reason why you have “larf” at the bottom is based on a hormonal response called apical dominance. Auxins tend to collect and drive tissue production at the top of the plant. They will tend to get resources first. Apical dominance means that the growing apex of a plant controls the quiescence of buds sitting in lower positions along a shoot. This kind of bud inhibition is termed ‘correlative inhibition’. Correlative inhibition usually has a gradient: the lower on the shoot, the stronger the inhibition.
https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/agricultural-and-biological-sciences/apical-dominance 3

Newbie stuff, not gonna waste a lot of time again. Will gift you with some botanical thought cause I'm a good guy that cares.

Start at the bottom (April 8) and work your way up.

Defoliation vs No(little) defoliation

@OldUncleBen They are beauties. I love that leaf definition. They remind me of a Purple Kush I took around Christmas. I didn’t defoliate her at all except for the very bottoms so I could feed and water. No larf at all on her and the nugs were very dense. Nice smoke. She grew really slow, but I...

overgrow.com

And in your spare time plant a fruit tree and watch fruit set deep in the canopy mature and ripen in the shade - avocado, mango, citrus, pear, apple.......it's all the same.

Uncle Ben

Thanks for the input but Nothing wrong with testing things for yourself. That is always the best answer. Some will say it doesn’t work and some will say it does. As I said for me it worked so I will do it. For me even if it doesn’t increase yield would be worth it for the extra air flow that helps me keep bud rot away… And anybody who is curious try it. If it don’t work don’t do it, and if it does work then keep doing it. It’s simple. Trial and error is the best teacher. Nobody should be against that. So I would be cautious to anybody who tells you it’s bad to learn things and experiment in your own garden.

 

[LostTribe]

View attachment 18935910 View attachment 18935911 View attachment 18935912 View attachment 18935913 View attachment 18935914 KISS amigos aka Keep it Simple Stoner.

Bills method works great! Might need a couple minimal adjustments because nobody’s environment is the same! I started using Bills recommendations over 2 years ago and live in Comifornia! My dope is sought after period!

Not sure if Bill would approve but I lower CalNit 10% per week weeks 5-8 and add Growmore Flowering CalMag to keep the Engine running/Ca sufficient. Otherwise I follow his recommendations to a T in an 8 light COCO DTW set up.

Even more controversial I strip my bitches naked day 21-22 and never allow a leaf with a petiole on I until chop!

I guarantee all of you that my way isn’t the way but there is definitely no need for arguing or saying your way is!

Merry Christmas

Peace


LJ

How is that working out vs running calnit? LD?

 

[mexweed]

It's likely that some strains react better to defoliation than others just like topping, some plants will try to regrow/replace the leaf no matter what and if it's flowering that can mean leafier bud

 

[Ca++]

Post removed: Too far off topic, this leaf stuff

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

It's likely that some strains react better to defoliation than others just like topping, some plants will try to regrow/replace the leaf no matter what and if it's flowering that can mean leafier bud

Removing carbo producers has the same effect whether it be sativa, indica, tomato or peach tree. A leaf is a leaf, a source of food for tissue production. Why is this so difficult in cannabis circles as opposed to conventional, educated people working in the non-cannabis ag business who get it?

Like you said, unless it's late in the game the plant will usually replace leaves and/or branches that are removed.

Leafier bud is a good thing, it is for me. The ole "Calyx-leaf" ratio hype of cannabis seed resellers. Give me a break.

Uncle Ben

 

[airplane]

Ref topic ---- "Simply Professional" they have a veg and a bloom - all-in-one - Bio -mineral complex- NPK- cal-mag - micros (sample packs $8.00 Have used with good results

 

[mexweed]

I like the idea of a one part, megacrop has fulvic and silica in it, but I don't like the idea of feeding silica past week 3 of flower

These (there is another one just like it to the left) were clones that were topped transplanted into 1 gallon and flipped immediately after filling out a solo cup, all in recycled coco (about 1:1 hydroton) that was rinsed with tap water no enzymes, so far they have only been getting the plain 221 masterblend

This is a lower bud a bit past week 4 on 9 weeks that has been getting the fulvic and "hammerhead", decent frost for halfway

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

I like the idea of a one part, megacrop has fulvic and silica in it, but I don't like the idea of feeding silica past week 3 of flower

These (there is another one just like it to the left) were clones that were topped transplanted into 1 gallon and flipped immediately after filling out a solo cup, all in recycled coco (about 1:1 hydroton) that was rinsed with tap water no enzymes, so far they have only been getting the plain 221 masterblend

View attachment 18944349


This is a lower bud a bit past week 4 on 9 weeks that has been getting the fulvic and "hammerhead", decent frost for halfway

View attachment 18944351

Those plants look healthy albeit very sparse regarding leaf mass. Leaf mass controls bud production/mass. What happened, what did you do?

UB

 

[Old Uncle Ben]

Those plants look healthy albeit very sparse regarding leaf mass. Leaf mass controls bud production/mass. What happened, what did you do? Based on experience neither fulvic, humic acids/humates nor silicon will get you anywhere. Sorry for being a Debbie Downer, but I've tried it all.

UB