Ceramic Metal Halide (CMH)

[redclover]

if you want to get a hold of tom call him.

If you have to move NOW then
And why not just get a step up transformer http://www.amazon.com/Seven-Star-TC1500W-Step-Transformer-1500W/dp/B000AY3JEK
that should support 4, or 5 if you push it.
And then just get as many ballast kits as you want from tom, and his ballast and bulb combo price is still great. Also he has the PGX bulbs, but don't tell him I told you.

Thanks for the suggestions! I actually talk to the dude daily. He will talk you're ear off. He mentioned the upcoming kit to be better than using the transformer, forget the reason. He told me he puts two 315s in a hood, on a light mover, and still has to dim them.

I want to bare vert two of them yoyo style.

I'm just using my Area 51 LEDs for now.

 

[redclover]

I am not saying they have not been designed well, I just don't think there is much to designing them well.

Also i Don't like the ballast built into the fixture, as its not supposed to get over 85C

There's several peeps loving these fixtures on other forums. They have some nice journals on them.

 

[rives]

Good point. I wouldn't mind a T12 at all tho. Heat won't be much of an issue with that fixture and bulb.

I'm pretty sure that is the same fixture that Habeeb was using, and he found that the heat was too much for the small tents that he was using (30x30, I believe). He wound up using the small Bell hoods so that they could be ducted. I've got three of them going in the Bells, and they would be damn warm without the forced ventilation.

 

[turtle360]

A couple of things to bear in mind with that fixture is that, since it is open, you cannot use the T9 (single-jacket) lamps in it and you don't have the capacity to duct the heat out directly.

To be clear, you're referring to the LEC 315? Because it was in the context of that light that I was comparing the "low" price of the HTG light. Sales guy at Growers House said it would not need any additional cooling than basic ventilation, no air cooling needed.

 

[Ninja Mechanics]

Wow, this thread is huge!

In order to save me a few years of reading, could someone who has been following this thread from day one please give me the current run down of CMH? Where does this technology stand as of today? Any other info is much appreciated!

 

[redclover]

To be clear, you're referring to the LEC 315? Because it was in the context of that light that I was comparing the "low" price of the HTG light. Sales guy at Growers House said it would not need any additional cooling than basic ventilation, no air cooling needed.

Reviews say the LEC ballast is warm to the touch, and heat from bulb isn't a problem.

 

[non]

Wow, this thread is huge!

In order to save me a few years of reading, could someone who has been following this thread from day one please give me the current run down of CMH? Where does this technology stand as of today? Any other info is much appreciated!

you have the old retrowhite in 250 and 400w versions, runs on mag hps ballast. these have horizontal and vertical models and should be not run the other way (people have done it but it's highly not recommended for security reasons)

then you have newer allstarts 205 and 330w versions which run on 250 and 400w mh mag ballasts, also a 860w cmh which runs on 1000w mh mag ballast.

the latest and the greatest are the new cdms which require their own specialty ballasts, and depending on bulb type also new kind socket, pgz(x)18, they come in 210 and 315w versions and in cooler(942) and warmer (930)colors so to speak, also the agro/greenpower specifially designed for horticulture? there's also closed and open rated versions, socket type depending on this, unless you want the standard mogul version which to my knowledge is open rated (bulb glass should hold the catastrophic explosive failure if that happens to occur, rare but possible).

there's also tons of smaller ones (30-150w) designed for shop lights etc. interesting to fiddle with but they usually require closed hood due being closed rated.

 

[rives]

To be clear, you're referring to the LEC 315? Because it was in the context of that light that I was comparing the "low" price of the HTG light. Sales guy at Growers House said it would not need any additional cooling than basic ventilation, no air cooling needed.

Yes, I was referring to the LEC315. It obviously depends on how you are set up as to whether or not additional airflow will be necessary, but in a small tent things are going to get toasty! They work great the way that I have them set up (ducted out), but I doubt that they would work in an open configuration with my current setup.

 

[redclover]

Here's a nice review on the LEC. Looks really good. http://growershouse.com/images/ALTEST_infographic_1.pdf

 

[Bubbagineer]

Oops, Bubba accidentally slipped and put a 3rd Elite Agro 315w bulb in my 4x4 tent..... why? Because they fit, I'm controlling heat well, the girls clearly can't get enough, and because I have no self control when it comes to this shit lol.

Also socking a tablespoon of Dyna Gro bloom per gallon of water through Blumats. Plants drink ~ 3/4g of this solution per day per plant. Temps no higher than 77. Using both a 6" & a 4" fan /filter to exhaust the tent.

 

[spachal]

Hallo, I have a question about Philips 315W and reflector. Do you think that I can use reflector like adjust-a-wings with this lamp?

I orderd from ATS combo 315Watt ED37 variant, but I don't know which shape and how big reflector I can use. There is cheaper copy of adjust-a-wings reflector in local stores: http://www.waveflector.cz/index.php (Waveflector XL), size 50 x 66 x 15 cm, with ED40 (should be compatibile with ED37).

Do you think that this kind of reflector is 'suitable' for Philips 315 lights? Thanks for info! :]

 

[rives]

It's like carburetors - one's good, two is better, three's a gas. Too much is a good thing!

 

[redclover]

How would you guys do a bare vert with a PG socket? Couldn't find anyone doing this. Is there a certain PG model that's made to be hung, or suggestions?

 

[habeeb]

Here's a nice review on the LEC. Looks really good. http://growershouse.com/images/ALTEST_infographic_1.pdf

thanks for this..

always sized up the CDM to about 420-430


another thing, which I have noticed and had a brief talk with rives about, is color using the CDM.. unrivled with any other system I've seen / used.. I can't point to what it is fully yet.. but never thought on it what color of the spectrum or combination is bringing out the coloring

 

[redclover]

thanks for this..

always sized up the CDM to about 420-430


another thing, which I have noticed and had a brief talk with rives about, is color using the CDM.. unrivled with any other system I've seen / used.. I can't point to what it is fully yet.. but never thought on it what color of the spectrum or combination is bringing out the coloring

It's because they're mini indoor suns I like to focus on just a few things in a spd. 630nm, more 660nm, and some 730nm far red...coupled with lesser ratio of blues, then greens, and UV to top it off. No extra BS they don't need. They're LEDs with UV, and a little more coverage. I like how the 930s seem to hit all the right spots for bloom.

Just trying to make more sense out of the T12 and T9 UV comparison. I want UVB, and very little UVA AND UVC. The T12 has more UVB with double jacket?! Doesn't make sense to me. I've used UVB supplementation before and seen def increase in resin. Been awhile, but I think it's the plant producing trichs to protect herself from harmful rays. Any thoughts?

 

[LargePrime]

How would you guys do a bare vert with a PG socket? Couldn't find anyone doing this. Is there a certain PG model that's made to be hung, or suggestions?

Any of the 315W bulbs can go vertical.
I was thinking to take a standard single gang metal box and drill holes to match the wire and bolt holes.
Then feed the wires and bolt the PGZ to the metal box. Then one can wire it up and put a standard closed one gang metal cover to close it up.
Then you have a fixture you can mount conduit to to hang the bulb as you like or hang it downwards but just the power cable (use a cable clamp).

 

[adilerr]

Just make sure you use a PGZX18 (protected) bulb/socket if going bare - I wouldn't risk damaging plants in case a bulb explodes.

 

[LargePrime]

Just make sure you use a PGZX18 (protected) bulb/socket if going bare - I wouldn't risk damaging plants in case a bulb explodes.

I also recommend the protected bulb, but you don't need the socket.

But I was thinking of running the unprotected (T9) if I could rig up a UV detector that would cut power if the bulb blows.

Also i am thinking about building a circular light mover to add more radius to 315W vert grow. I am wondering if there will be a problem if the bulb goes close (within 4 ") as it passes then farther (~24") away as it makes its way around.

Thoughts?

 

[redclover]

I also recommend the protected bulb, but you don't need the socket.

But I was thinking of running the unprotected (T9) if I could rig up a UV detector that would cut power if the bulb blows.

Also i am thinking about building a circular light mover to add more radius to 315W vert grow. I am wondering if there will be a problem if the bulb goes close (within 4 ") as it passes then farther (~24") away as it makes its way around.

Thoughts?

I think you can get within 6" easy bare. I did 14" with the bare 860w. Anything further is just a waste most likely. That's where a light meter would be handy.

I think it'd be cool to do a yoyo bare bulb on a light mover

 

[rives]

I also recommend the protected bulb, but you don't need the socket.

But I was thinking of running the unprotected (T9) if I could rig up a UV detector that would cut power if the bulb blows.

Also i am thinking about building a circular light mover to add more radius to 315W vert grow. I am wondering if there will be a problem if the bulb goes close (within 4 ") as it passes then farther (~24") away as it makes its way around.

Thoughts?

It's a damn good idea to stick within NEMA standards to protect yourself from the short-term memory impairment that we all court on here (sockets that match the lamp application, in this case). Also, I would be less concerned about UV than the bulb exploding/potential fire danger. The internal pressures are extremely high in CMH lamps, and they have the potential to go off like a grenade, complete with high-temperature shrapnel.