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tenthirty
Member
hmmm....goodluck, all my research suggests it does not work. Report back and let us know
anyone know the ballast they use on these? there's only so many right?
well, I picked up two of them. was going to go with the greenbeams, but I honestly liked these for some reason.. they look "trashy" to me, but maybe at heart that's what I am... hahahahahaha
well, no matter what, I can switch the ballast if I want later down the road, as I plan to move out of Country to the land of 240 volt. they had a option for 240 volt, but figured, I would switch out the ballast to the GEL, once I get there..
still gonna run LED, just want to play with the "new" technology, as I always do. I plan to "re-build" my LED lamps..
well, I picked up two of them. was going to go with the greenbeams, but I honestly liked these for some reason.. they look "trashy" to me, but maybe at heart that's what I am... hahahahahaha
well, no matter what, I can switch the ballast if I want later down the road, as I plan to move out of Country to the land of 240 volt. they had a option for 240 volt, but figured, I would switch out the ballast to the GEL, once I get there..
still gonna run LED, just want to play with the "new" technology, as I always do. I plan to "re-build" my LED lamps..
As far as I know, the GEL is the only ballast that is available with a 120v option - the last information that I've seen on the Philips says that it is still only available in 240v.
Interesting looking fixture, I like the vertical lamp orientation. Looking forward to seeing your results!
Interesting looking fixture, I like the vertical lamp orientation. Looking forward to seeing your results!
ok, so an update on the internals of the sun systems CDM system.
still need to play around with the Par meter, but I was getting 1500 PAR under the lamp ( about 12 inches ), will do more testing, had to get the plants moved before lights out..
so here it is, I'm sure Rives knows how there able to plug into 120 volt with a 220 volt ballast
still need to play around with the Par meter, but I was getting 1500 PAR under the lamp ( about 12 inches ), will do more testing, had to get the plants moved before lights out..
so here it is, I'm sure Rives knows how there able to plug into 120 volt with a 220 volt ballast
Interesting - I was wondering why the 120v version was $30 more on the Sunlight Supply page. It's to pay for that little transformer that kicks 120v up to 240v pictured in the far right picture. You are all set when you want to change to 240v, just change out the cordset and bypass the transformer.
green path
Active member
looks interesting
sun system LEC 315. here's the site. I was actually going to order the cycloptics, and right before I did was looking for bulb info and found this system. cheaper then there's, and liked how it's a all in one unit, no separate ballast to hook to.. simpler design. SOLD
there a little on the pricy side, but depends what deal you can get at the hydro shop. But I expect to see some more people start running these soon, as the unit is ready to run, easy plug and play, and they include the bulb so you can fire it up within 15 minutes, also cheaper then the cycloptics kits.
Only downside is the open air reflector.
thanks rives.
yeah I was like, shit.. thanks sun systems for making my life easier.. haha.
Thanks for the info habeeb.
Have to wonder if the Cycloptics reflector is any better at getting light to the plants than the Sun System, and if it does reflect light better how much of a difference is there? If the Sun System is pretty close to the same, or even possibly better it's a steal of a deal!
Also wonder how many watts of power are lost in the step up transformer.. advancedlightingsupply recommend using a step up transformer for their systems if 240v isn't available, and suggest the loss is minimal.
Have to wonder if the Cycloptics reflector is any better at getting light to the plants than the Sun System, and if it does reflect light better how much of a difference is there? If the Sun System is pretty close to the same, or even possibly better it's a steal of a deal!
Also wonder how many watts of power are lost in the step up transformer.. advancedlightingsupply recommend using a step up transformer for their systems if 240v isn't available, and suggest the loss is minimal.
indianajones
Member
wow, 1500 PAR is no joke. it would be awesome if you would draw up a 15"x15" square, and a 30"x30" square and measure
at each corner and the midpoint of each side so we can get an idea of the spread as well, if you have the time and wouldn't mind.
IME running parabolic reflectors with 1kw HPS, the vertical bulb parabolic stayed much cooler than the horizontal bulb
orientation, hopefully that translates with the system you have. i dunno how i feel about the enclosed ballast though,
i always keep the ballast outside of the grow space. very very interested though!
at each corner and the midpoint of each side so we can get an idea of the spread as well, if you have the time and wouldn't mind.
IME running parabolic reflectors with 1kw HPS, the vertical bulb parabolic stayed much cooler than the horizontal bulb
orientation, hopefully that translates with the system you have. i dunno how i feel about the enclosed ballast though,
i always keep the ballast outside of the grow space. very very interested though!
The Cycloptics reflector is a different animal than what we are used to. It is designed to use the walls of the grow space as an integral part of the reflector, and is best used in a design that takes this into account.
There is negligible loss in the transformer. They are used in virtually all electronic components and all power systems.
The ballast losses on the Philips ballasts are very low - they only take about 25w to run. Mine are barely warm to the touch.
indianajones
Member
Good to know, thanks for taking time to write a response. 
I might be able to get to this tomorrow. let me see
yeah, crazier thing is 2200 PAR if you can keep temps down. that's what I have some of my tops at, but it is getting a little warm in that region, and the side is less, as it's not pulled up as high, as the plants are smaller right now.
I thought on the ballast too, but let's remember were past hot magnetic ballasts.. so I don't think it should be a problem, if anyone wants, they can simply drills holes in the top, and cut off the bottom plate to get air to the ballast if they want.
I do think this is a good deal, for not wanting to DIY rig it together. Depending on hydro store and what you can get it at, I say it's a very fair deal..
also to remember, the PAR is reading only 400-700, as it has "cutoff" filters in the sensor, so there is a little more action going on then the number reading. also to take into account then is the reading is not a true reading.. see pic as they have not got it 100% yet..
indianajones
Member
there are 32"x32" hydro trays also if it won't quite cover it.
hi guys,
had a question. on the phillips ballast. the option for the 215 watt, does that tone the bulb down or do you have to use a different bulb then??
toying with the idea of building a fixture.. for a 2x2 tent, can't run 315 watts in it, nor do I think I want to try and achieve it ( also might be too much light.. if that's possible ).. I remember back to the good ole' days of mills pride cabinets, and people stuffing 600 watts in them..
this is just for fun, as I'm bored.. again. Gonna go CDM or another DIY LED... haven't made up my mind yet..... having the 2 right next to each other, I can say the LED is like zero heat compared to the bulb.. bulb is more intense, but the LED is about 1500 PAR 4 inches away.. choices choices
had a question. on the phillips ballast. the option for the 215 watt, does that tone the bulb down or do you have to use a different bulb then??
toying with the idea of building a fixture.. for a 2x2 tent, can't run 315 watts in it, nor do I think I want to try and achieve it ( also might be too much light.. if that's possible ).. I remember back to the good ole' days of mills pride cabinets, and people stuffing 600 watts in them..
this is just for fun, as I'm bored.. again. Gonna go CDM or another DIY LED... haven't made up my mind yet..... having the 2 right next to each other, I can say the LED is like zero heat compared to the bulb.. bulb is more intense, but the LED is about 1500 PAR 4 inches away.. choices choices
The 210w setting is for a different lamp. I can't make out the schematic in your pictures, but if your ballasts are like mine, there should be a dimming circuit (the purple and gray wires, I think). They accept a 0-10vdc signal, and if I remember correctly, they come out of the opposite end of the ballast from the power wiring (I'm not home at the moment).
There is supposed to be a bit of spectral shift while running dimmed, and the lamps will start out at full power and gradually dim to your setting over 5 minutes or so.
There is supposed to be a bit of spectral shift while running dimmed, and the lamps will start out at full power and gradually dim to your setting over 5 minutes or so.
thank you sir.
so the 210 is done by a switch ( thought I read from you earlier ) or by dimming to it's max setting?
also is there a 210 agro bulb?
yeah it has the purple and gray wires tucked in.
