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C13 Club
- Thread starter Fat Puta
- Start date
S
strain_searcher
Fat Puta said:
The dark green is sour creek a cross I made using tom hills cripple creek and bogs sour bubble male. The fat lighter in color is afghanixblueberry from captain crip.
CGM
Member
nice strains strain searcher maybe u wanna trade hehe... Fat Puta one died ahhhhhh yea the yellowing means there coming along fine, ummm i dont know whats what, the container was labeled... hehe that bud was original sweet pink grapefruit from what i was told, and u found seeds in it dident u?
G
Guest
Enahs stumbles back in trying to be cool enough to hang out only has c25 
G
Guest
enhas, why not move the light up and down rather than the plants? Seems like added strain....
G
Guest
"enhas, why not move the light up and down rather than the plants? Seems like added strain...."
not too bad really I like having lights wire duct all mounted securely I originally had an air cooled hood that barely fit in my cab had to be hard pipe for duct was the only way i could do it when i relaced with cooltube i just kept it the same
more pics in my new thread http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=21062
not too bad really I like having lights wire duct all mounted securely I originally had an air cooled hood that barely fit in my cab had to be hard pipe for duct was the only way i could do it when i relaced with cooltube i just kept it the same
more pics in my new thread http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=21062
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hey all
Im about to build a c13. How are we all light proofing the boxes? Is anyone usind the carboard carton it came in to make a front wall. Thats the first thing that comes to mind for me. Throw me some ideas while I search around for an answer.
Too Triv , how come your carbon scrubber is inside your box? What are doing for exhaust?
Im about to build a c13. How are we all light proofing the boxes? Is anyone usind the carboard carton it came in to make a front wall. Thats the first thing that comes to mind for me. Throw me some ideas while I search around for an answer.
Too Triv , how come your carbon scrubber is inside your box? What are doing for exhaust?
G
Guest
The Carbon filter is where the exhaust starts you could say, and it is inside because of stealth issues. I do not want anything on the outside of the box. You can explain a wardrobe closet if you have to, but with a ballast, fan, or carbon scrubber on top.... 
Goes like this: Carbon Filter (sucking smelly air in the cab) -> air cooled hood -> Inline fan (which is telling the filter to suck) -> out the top of the cab. As long as there are no leaks in the ducting from the carbon filter to the ducting comming out of the top, the smell is totally eliminated.
As for your c-13, I suggest you throw the cardboard piece of shit back away. Or you can use it to slide down a grass hill or something? haha
All you have to do is have a piece of melemene cut to size for you at the hardware store. It will replace the cardboard cutout, and make your cab much studier and sealable. Measure your screws correctly tho, you won't want them pertruding or anything. I can't stress it enough when it comes to the cab....everything you do measure 5 times cut once! The design is critical, and all aspects of the grow should be considered. Things change, and you don't wanna be locked into a certian style or setup.
The carbon filter is custom made to fit btw (about 60 to 70 bucks total cost).
I don't know how everyone light proofs their cab's, but the method most use is weatherstripping. When doing so, its all about adjusting the doors....
Good Luck
What kind of ideas are you looking for?
Goes like this: Carbon Filter (sucking smelly air in the cab) -> air cooled hood -> Inline fan (which is telling the filter to suck) -> out the top of the cab. As long as there are no leaks in the ducting from the carbon filter to the ducting comming out of the top, the smell is totally eliminated.As for your c-13, I suggest you throw the cardboard piece of shit back away. Or you can use it to slide down a grass hill or something? haha
All you have to do is have a piece of melemene cut to size for you at the hardware store. It will replace the cardboard cutout, and make your cab much studier and sealable. Measure your screws correctly tho, you won't want them pertruding or anything. I can't stress it enough when it comes to the cab....everything you do measure 5 times cut once! The design is critical, and all aspects of the grow should be considered. Things change, and you don't wanna be locked into a certian style or setup.
The carbon filter is custom made to fit btw (about 60 to 70 bucks total cost).
I don't know how everyone light proofs their cab's, but the method most use is weatherstripping. When doing so, its all about adjusting the doors....
Good Luck
What kind of ideas are you looking for?
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Killer.Glad to see this thread getting started over here.Fellow OG refugee myself.
Have a C13 with A/C 400 watt HPS.
Saving the money to get a 250 HPS with cooltube and some fluoros/CFL's so I can turn my c13 into a two stage cab.Perpetual is the way that is best and if I can do it with one cab that's even better.
I'll be sure to post pics when I get things done.
Have a C13 with A/C 400 watt HPS.
Saving the money to get a 250 HPS with cooltube and some fluoros/CFL's so I can turn my c13 into a two stage cab.Perpetual is the way that is best and if I can do it with one cab that's even better.
I'll be sure to post pics when I get things done.
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G
Guest
"Im about to build a c13. How are we all light proofing the boxes? Is anyone usind the carboard carton it came in to make a front wall. Thats the first thing that comes to mind for me. Throw me some ideas while I search around for an answer."
front wall??? carton it came in? lol
no cardboard necassary. As too triv said it has alot ot do with adjusting your doors to get a good tight fit I tried several different types of weatherstripping unfortunatley Its a pain in the ass to take off once you have on so get it right the first time. I use cabnet magnets and a lock to keep doors nice and tightley closed a must if you plan on having a veg and flower chamber to keep light seperate also another idea heard but not using but a good one is to add a strip of wood under second shelf along front edge to create a fake shelf to give the light a harder time to get from veg to flower area. Predrill all your holes!! also like tt was saying get a piece of malamine cut to fit back or use the piece it came with and reinforce with some plywood. thats what I did just because I already had the plywood but if your buying it all definatley get piece cut to fit.
Hope that helps try and get the c13 call all home depots in the area take the display whatever you have to do try and get c13 over c25 The c25 is nice but that 4 inches i sure would love to have
Weatherstripping best stuff Home Depot space between doors is the hardest to get right remeber adjust, adjust, adjust. measure, measure, measure.
front wall??? carton it came in?
lolno cardboard necassary. As too triv said it has alot ot do with adjusting your doors to get a good tight fit I tried several different types of weatherstripping unfortunatley Its a pain in the ass to take off once you have on so get it right the first time. I use cabnet magnets and a lock to keep doors nice and tightley closed a must if you plan on having a veg and flower chamber to keep light seperate also another idea heard but not using but a good one is to add a strip of wood under second shelf along front edge to create a fake shelf to give the light a harder time to get from veg to flower area. Predrill all your holes!! also like tt was saying get a piece of malamine cut to fit back or use the piece it came with and reinforce with some plywood. thats what I did just because I already had the plywood but if your buying it all definatley get piece cut to fit.
Hope that helps try and get the c13 call all home depots in the area take the display whatever you have to do try and get c13 over c25 The c25 is nice but that 4 inches i sure would love to have
Weatherstripping best stuff Home Depot space between doors is the hardest to get right remeber adjust, adjust, adjust. measure, measure, measure.
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Ok I just wrote a long ass post and it dissapeared so now it will be short.
thanks Too Triv and enahs for the reply it was very helpful. If the weatherstipping works good it would be nice because my last cab it did not but it was different. What size weatherstipping , i cant read that on ur pack
Pic of current cab
30" square 31" H
400hps cooltube positioned center front to back corner,many reflected lights in mylar walls
4 inch carbon filter in the back corner
carboard back - no problem glued and nailed, taped
temps - 70 in rootzone 85- 89 canopy
cooling-exhuast = high cfm comp fans
door light proof- carboard false door inside with ducttape seal, but bot taped like a gasket. and some weatherstipping which did not work due to the hinges and the angular of the door.
The main problem I see in most c13 , c22 , cab grows is the wrong placement of the light. Most have it postioned in a reflector bouncing the light off the backside and the doors. optimum positon would be just oppisite with the light positioned so the bulb is front to back. The light is reflected off the sides of the bulb and is most efficient to be used in the horizontal positioning with the longest length, rectangular. I know the reasoning is people cant fit the reflectors in there that way, but maybe they can fix up there cab with a smaller reflector or get a cooltube. One can be bought for a 100 or built with a bake a round for very cheap and light efficiiency would be solved. The benefit of this also is the the plants on the outside can be allowed to grow above the sides of the cool tube, for a vertical and horizontal grow, thus increasing yields. Now if you can buy all kinds of nutes and build cabs, invest in a cooltube or build a cheapo one. I really dislike cab growing as its not optimum at all. My first indoor grow in an open space attic with 2 400hps yielded 24 ounces and some change with lights hung vertical, too bad i cant do this with a cab. But I do go for max yields at all times , and this small cab I have now just cant do it. Im getting a lil over 6 ouncs with cindy and SSH from a 400. This run should have been much better but will probably be about the same considering all the haze in there right now and the seedmaking. I had long flowering SSH that i dicontinued and crossed to cindy , the offsping is just taking up space , 40 days 12/12 now and no flowers. Another backcross should help. I just like playing around with it. The SSh I have now is a pheno that flowers in 8 - 9 weeks and is nice. But I probably wont be growing as much as this anymore, but will have a smaller spot, as the yield is dragging me down. I run out of smoke too fast. Cindy yields ounce and 1/3 per gallon of media for me while the haze yields 1 ounce per 2 gallons media.
Here is a few pics of cindy and ssh at 38 days flower.
thanks Too Triv and enahs for the reply it was very helpful. If the weatherstipping works good it would be nice because my last cab it did not but it was different. What size weatherstipping , i cant read that on ur pack
Pic of current cab
30" square 31" H
400hps cooltube positioned center front to back corner,many reflected lights in mylar walls
4 inch carbon filter in the back corner
carboard back - no problem glued and nailed, taped
temps - 70 in rootzone 85- 89 canopy
cooling-exhuast = high cfm comp fans
door light proof- carboard false door inside with ducttape seal, but bot taped like a gasket. and some weatherstipping which did not work due to the hinges and the angular of the door.
The main problem I see in most c13 , c22 , cab grows is the wrong placement of the light. Most have it postioned in a reflector bouncing the light off the backside and the doors. optimum positon would be just oppisite with the light positioned so the bulb is front to back. The light is reflected off the sides of the bulb and is most efficient to be used in the horizontal positioning with the longest length, rectangular. I know the reasoning is people cant fit the reflectors in there that way, but maybe they can fix up there cab with a smaller reflector or get a cooltube. One can be bought for a 100 or built with a bake a round for very cheap and light efficiiency would be solved. The benefit of this also is the the plants on the outside can be allowed to grow above the sides of the cool tube, for a vertical and horizontal grow, thus increasing yields. Now if you can buy all kinds of nutes and build cabs, invest in a cooltube or build a cheapo one. I really dislike cab growing as its not optimum at all. My first indoor grow in an open space attic with 2 400hps yielded 24 ounces and some change with lights hung vertical, too bad i cant do this with a cab. But I do go for max yields at all times , and this small cab I have now just cant do it. Im getting a lil over 6 ouncs with cindy and SSH from a 400. This run should have been much better but will probably be about the same considering all the haze in there right now and the seedmaking. I had long flowering SSH that i dicontinued and crossed to cindy , the offsping is just taking up space , 40 days 12/12 now and no flowers. Another backcross should help. I just like playing around with it. The SSh I have now is a pheno that flowers in 8 - 9 weeks and is nice. But I probably wont be growing as much as this anymore, but will have a smaller spot, as the yield is dragging me down. I run out of smoke too fast. Cindy yields ounce and 1/3 per gallon of media for me while the haze yields 1 ounce per 2 gallons media.
Here is a few pics of cindy and ssh at 38 days flower.
