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Broad Mites?

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GET MO

Registered Med User
Veteran
they could be. Look like what a lot are posting. Im no expert on broad mites, tryna fight um myself as u can see with the above pics, but I am on thips and no the yellow longer ones are def thrips. Looks like u may be infested with both, again not sure tho.
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
All of my plants especially in flower are sickly looking.

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It looks like they have the symptoms of severe broad mite infestation.

The ones in veg look ill also just not as bad. Here are the bugs on a single veg leaf.


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More to follow

You cannot see Broad mites without a scope. They are microscopic.
 

RetroGrow

Active member
Veteran
I wonder how something so small could cause so much havoc. Do they carry a virus or something?

No virus. They inject toxins into the plant, which causes lingering damage. Aspirin will mitigate this damage. 325 Mg. per gallon boost plants immune system and helps resist the toxins.
 

Thomas Paine

Member
Veteran
I received my pack of the OG Biowar Foliar.

One question please. Do you recommend using a wetting agent along with the spray?

Thank you all in advance.
 

sunset limited

Member
Veteran
I received my pack of the OG Biowar Foliar.

One question please. Do you recommend using a wetting agent along with the spray?

Thank you all in advance.

depends what sort of wetting agent. wouldn't use neem because of its fungicidal properties. wouldn't use sm-90 because it tends to turn biologicals into a brown slime. don't know what effect a sticker-spreader or an adjuvant would have, but a lot of them injure the plants somewhat.

if you feel the need to use a wetting agent with biological agents, aloe vera is always a safe bet.

Thanks for the quick reply Get. What about the last 4? Could those be broad mites? Could thrips do that kind of damage?

never seen thrips stipple the leaves like that, but if you want to be sure, treat with imid or another agent known to kill them. see if the new growth comes in lush and normal. if not, keep digging.
 
O

OrganicOzarks

depends what sort of wetting agent. wouldn't use neem because of its fungicidal properties. wouldn't use sm-90 because it tends to turn biologicals into a brown slime. don't know what effect a sticker-spreader or an adjuvant would have, but a lot of them injure the plants somewhat.

if you feel the need to use a wetting agent with biological agents, aloe vera is always a safe bet.



never seen thrips stipple the leaves like that, but if you want to be sure, treat with imid or another agent known to kill them. see if the new growth comes in lush and normal. if not, keep digging.

Aloe vera is antifungal. Do not use it.

Do not use a wetting agent as most that you are going to use will work against the spores. Just mix it, and spray it. Don't over think it.
 
O

OrganicOzarks

What can I use instead of earth worm castings for brew an ogbiowar tea? I have all the other ingredients.

You can just mix it with water. You do not have to brew a tea. I have done both ways, and they both got the same result.
 

Messodas

Member
Thanks Man, a bit of relief...
That's what I did. Mix with water and water them good.
I rest with a mixture of 10 l, which I mixed 2 tablespoons of molasses. I will leave this for 24 hours and tomorrow spray the plants.

All good to all of you!
 

Thomas Paine

Member
Veteran
Another quick question.

How long after treatment do you see effects?

Meaning, after treatment, do you immediately see a knockdown in EGG populations?
 

eric2028

Well-known member
Veteran
I just received my og biowar foliar pack today, ive been battling broadmites now for over six months with avid,forbid, and phantom. im gonna keep u guys posted on my experience. I ordered mine from ebay thru caps bennies cause the site was down. I may just shit myself if this cures my bugs for good....
 

Thomas Paine

Member
Veteran
Host plants for broad mites are Beans, Lemons, Mangos and Strawberries, so I am going to avoid bringing any of these fresh veggies or fruits into my house from now on.

Used to always have fresh lemons and grapefruit picked from a friends yard in my house, along with Mangos. Never again.

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I refuse to believe that these things are so virulent that they are unbeatable.

After thorough cleaning of the house and growroom, along with preventative measures such as none of the afore mentioned fruit, and no procession (keifing, oil making) of trim at my house, as well as no one else's plants ever in my room along with proper treatment has to get rid of these things.

Just like with PM, or regular mites, or root aphids - these things in the environment and just part of growing. Things we have to deal with through vigilant pro-active maintenance and cleaning of our medical grows.

I know in my case, i slacked... in a number of ways. Now I am paying the price.

Won't happen again. Just like RA's and PM. We will all conquer this !
 

Thomas Paine

Member
Veteran
While little pest management research has been done on the majority of tarsonemid species, comprehensive studies have been made into the biological and chemical control of the cyclamen mite and the broad mite. Chemical trials demonstrated that endosulfan and dicofol consistently reduced densities of P. latus and S. pallidus, and planting stock can be effectively decontaminated through fumigation with methyl bromide or 1,2-dibromoethane. Three entomogenous fungi, Beauveria bassiana, Metarhizium anisopliae, and Paecilomyces fumosoroseus, can effectively manage broad mite infestations, with B. bassiana providing the greatest reduction. Predatory phytoseiid mites, in the genus Neoseiulus, can also successfully control P. latus and S. pallidus under greenhouse and field conditions.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tarsonemidae
 

Thomas Paine

Member
Veteran
re:

re:

Tarsonemid mites

Four key types:

- Broad mite (Polyphagotarsonemus latus): pale brown or translucent.

- Cyclamen mite (Phytonemus pallidus): translucent, green or yellow.

- Bulb scale mite (Stenotarsonemus laticeps): pale brown or translucent.

- Fern mite (Hemitarsonemus tepidariorum) can attack Polystichum but more common on Aspenium: yellow-brown.

Strawberries are vulnerable to Phytonemus pallidus ssp. fragariae. Mites are extremely small. Eggs are large compared to nymph and adult sizes and can be elliptical or oval.

Eriophyid mites

There are at least 12 different gall and rust mites and most originate from Acalitus, Acaricalus, Aceria, Aculops, Aculus, Artacris, Cecidophyopsis, Epitrimerus, Eriophyes, Phyllocoptes, Tegonotus and Vasates.

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Biology

Warm, dry weather encourages populations to increase rapidly on host plants outdoors and under protection. Pests tend to congregate in the growing tips, where humidity is high.

The bulb scale mite burrows into bulbs during August and September and also relies on warm conditions. Mites are spread on the wind, clothing, other insects and animal fur.

Symptoms

Tarsonemid mites cause leaves to be puckered, bronzed and distorted.

Eriophyid mites induce leaf galls, felting, leaf rolling and leaf blistering.

Treatment: biological control

Amblyseius cucumeris, Amblyseius californicus and Amblyseius swirskii provide supplementary control of tarsonemid and eriophyid mites.

Treatment: cultural control

- Alternate acaricide sprays from different chemical groups to avoid resistance.

- Attack occurs more often on stressed plants so ensure appropriate irrigation, nutrition and climate are provided.

- Remove and burn any badly infested material.

- Regularly remove and burn plant debris.

- Clean and disinfect between crops if possible.

- Keep weed populations low to avoid alternative host risks.

- Avoid frequent use of winter wash/oil treatments to encourage natural enemy mite populations.


Treatment: chemical control

Active ingredient: Abamectin

IRAC code: 6

Formulations: Dynamec (Syngenta) and others

Action(s): Naturally derived, selective acaricide and insecticide with label recommendation for protected and outdoor flowers and ornamentals. Apply thoroughly as soon as mites are seen, before leaf damage or webbing, but avoid run-off. Do not use on adiantum ferns or Shasta daisies. Spotting may occur on begonia foliage. Not compatible with some biological controls.


Active ingredient: Beauveria bassiana

Formulation: Naturalis-L (Belchim)

Action(s): Although primarily for whitefly and thrip control, this has limited effect on mites. Compatible with biological control.


Active ingredient: Chlorpyrifos

IRAC code: 1B

Formulations: Various including Dursban WG, Equity (Dow)

Action(s): Contact and ingested organophosphorus insecticide. Not compatible with biological control.


Active ingredient: Dimethoate

IRAC code: 1B

Formulations: BASF Dimethoate 40 (BASF), Danadim Progress (Headland)

Action(s): Contact and systemic organophosphorus insecticide with label recommendation for ornamental plant production, excluding chrysanthemums and ornamental prunus species. Not compatible with biological control.


Active ingredient: Fenpyroximate

IRAC code: 21

Formulation: Sequel* (Certis)

Action(s): Contact and ingested acaricide. Action on larvae, nymphs and adults with some moulting inhibitory effect on nymphs. Compatible with some biological controls.


Active ingredient: Lambda-cyhalothrin

Formulation: Hallmark with Zeon Technology* (Syngenta) and others

IRAC code: 3

Action(s): Fast-acting, persistent, contact and residual insecticide approved for use on outdoor and protected crops. Not compatible with biological control.


Active ingredient: Natural plant extracts

Formulation: Majestik (Certis)

Action(s): Contact insecticide with physical action on mites under protection. Ensure thorough coverage. Can be used as an overall spray 24 hours before introducing biological control agents. Do not treat ornamental crops in flower.


Active ingredient: Spiromesifen

IRAC code: 23

Formulation: Oberon* (Certis)

Action(s): Contact insecticide requiring full leaf coverage on protected crops only. Use handheld or stand-alone sprayers. Compatible with some biological controls.


Active ingredient: White petroleum oil

Formulation: Croptex Spraying Oil (Certis)

Action(s): An insecticide/acaricide oil that works by physical action, blocking the respiratory system. On outdoor crops, apply to plants with known tolerance when dormant. Not tested for crop safety on all ornamental varieties under all conditions.


Active ingredient: Tebufenpyrad

IRAC code: 21

Formulation: Masai (BASF)

Action(s): Acts on eggs and motile mite stages on protected and outdoor crops. Treat before infestation is established. Small-scale testing for crop sensitivity is recommended. Compatible with some biological controls.

http://www.hortweek.com/news/1083043/
 

NtropiK

New member
I've been using OGBioWar, and though it has definitely helped somewhat, it has not eradicated my problem. The vendor recommended spraying just before lights out because it works best if the RH is 60% or more. During the day, mine tends to be around 45-50%. For those who have had better success with this product, are you keeping the humidity above 60%? What are your temperature / humidity ranges?
 
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