Broad Mites?

[LadyV]

Moon - thank you for the pictures! I have a new toy on my list though!!

You said yours was a cheaper version, I see many listed on Amazon, how many megapixels is yours? I'd like to get one a bit higher for clearer images for my old eyes!

Thanks again. I'll be re-applying heat next week and monitoring temps below the canopy as well.

 

[moonunit]

Ok so abit of bad news, i found one lone survivor amongst the 100+ corpses i scoped on the 24 hour after inspection of the after heat treatment sample. It could have been a cross contamination on my part so next batchs i will treat with abit more care and protocol. Also it seemed wounded, about 10x slower than normal when it finaly manged to move off the spot and it was a big fatty so not a new hatched nymph. Its the only one thusfar and i have seen corpses of all ages from nymph to big fatty size.
The infected before sample which i always check second, was crawling still and dam they are fast little fekkers.
So whilst slightly bad news i still say the heat treatment works well, the lone survivor could have been hidden deep in the folds somewhere insulated from the heat. I still have found retros idea works better than any spray or other tech has and i think its just a matter of refining it abit.
I will keep on checking till day 7, incase any eggs hatch i want to see them, hence we can prove if they also are killed with the heat treatment. Also even though i have gone over all the heat treated samples now pretty thoroughly, i would like to check for any more crippled survivors i may have missed.

LadyV, the endoscope i got was very low megapixels, will have to find the box as its not on the scope itself. The little stands are helpfull but i find its best used in the hand. Its indeed a great tool for any grower and much easier to use than most magnification of the level, and the led lights around the lens light the sample perfect everytime, the one i use cost $40 lol but i am also planning on getting a high quality one now i know they are the better option for viewing, just got the cheapo to test the whole endoscope idea. Also they are fantastic for scoping trics for harvest time, much better than a loupe.

Much respect
Moonunit

 

[LEDNewbie]

So this is what I'm seeing on my new clones.....


I scoped top and bottom of this leaf and couldnt find any bugs or any eggs??? I see lots of perfectly circular bumps, some perfectly clear, some a little translucent and some a brown color. I'm assuming either small water droplets or resin glands???

What do you think is causing those little brown dots? Last time I saw those on my veg plants I founds mites underneath....

Could those brown dots be like "burn" marks from when I did the heat treatment?? Broad mites are supposed to die with 120 degree heat so I heated my veg room to 120 degrees for one hour 3-4 days ago. Plants seemed fine after wards. Think the heat could cause these brown dots?

fyi..... I took these clone from plants that for sure had mites. So once they were rooted and I was transplanting into 4" pots about a week ago each clone got a good dunking in some Avid.

Thanks guys

 

[Tuji]

So this is what I'm seeing on my new clones.....
[URL="https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=41174&pictureid=1021810&thumb=1"]View Image[/URL]

I scoped top and bottom of this leaf and couldnt find any bugs or any eggs??? I see lots of perfectly circular bumps, some perfectly clear, some a little translucent and some a brown color. I'm assuming either small water droplets or resin glands???

What do you think is causing those little brown dots? Last time I saw those on my veg plants I founds mites underneath....

Could those brown dots be like "burn" marks from when I did the heat treatment?? Broad mites are supposed to die with 120 degree heat so I heated my veg room to 120 degrees for one hour 3-4 days ago. Plants seemed fine after wards. Think the heat could cause these brown dots?

fyi..... I took these clone from plants that for sure had mites. So once they were rooted and I was transplanting into 4" pots about a week ago each clone got a good dunking in some Avid.

Thanks guys

are whiteflies damages to me

 

[LEDNewbie]

I don't see any white flies or any flies anywhere.... I have yellow stick traps and nothing on them plus I see nothing on soil. I think its still broad mites but how they have survived a 120+ degree heat treatment as well as a Avid dunking when I transplanted????

I'm at my whits end here. Seriously ready to give up??

Going to dunk clones in Forbid today or tomorrow. See what happens....???

 

[the gnome]

Ok so abit of bad news, i found one lone survivor amongst the 100+ corpses i scoped on the 24 hour after inspection of the after heat treatment sample. Also it seemed wounded, about 10x slower than normal when it finaly manged to move off the spot and it was a big fatty so not a new hatched nymph.
Moonunit

any survivors probably are in a weakened state.
if your in veg, you can lightly spray the leaves with 70% iso alcohol.
kills em dead, also you can use a pyritrins based spray, i use the hot shot kitchen safe bug spray.
is will also kill em.
ive been scoping my 14 in bloom plants and run across the occasional corpse, nothing alive.
i gave my plants the heat treatment but they went for about 2-1/2 hrs.
plants were fine afterwards.

are whiteflies damages to me

yes white flies can damage your plants and they are a proven vector to introduce broads into your garden.
all my BM probs happened a few years ago after a heavy WF infestation
once you achieve a ambient air temp of 120F objects in the room may not be that temp, for instance the soil in the pots were no where near 120F and would have to probably stay in the 120temps for 3-4hrs to reach that temp.
its an exaggeration comparing soil to the plant tissue but you get the idea. I wasn't 100% confident that when the room reached 120, everything els in it would be that same temps at the same time

 

[RetroGrow]

I'm not going to panic but I just looked at my new clones and it appears I see some little brown dots on the new leafs like I did last time!!!! Going to cut a few leafs off and scope them. Maybe those brown dots are damage done before heat treatment??? Guess I'll find out if I have any survivors tomorrow. If I do, then I don't know what say? I had the room at 120 for an hour and 125 for 15-20 min!!!!!

Those dots do not look like mite damage. Look more like thrip damage or something else. Remember, when you have broads in your room, they are also in your house/yard/clothes/ducting, etc. They get everywhere, and are constantly re-entering the room. So even if you kill every mite on your plants, they come back from elsewhere on your property. That's why you have to treat multiple times, and keep checking plants and treating as necessary. You should also be checking for eggs. They are easier to see, and are usually seen on the underside of leaves with a scope. Look for eggs, it's important. There are usually lots of them, so you can't miss them if you look with a 100X scope. Check for eggs before and after treatment. Check new clones for eggs. The mites are adept at hiding, but the eggs can't hide. Remember, Forbid is nasty stuff, and you shouldn't get it on you, and it lingers on plants for a long time, so I personally wouldn't put it on my plants.
I suppose dipping new clones is O.K. This whole clone thing is one of the main reasons for the spread of these things. That's one reason I like growing from seeds, and then making my own clones from my selections.
If you do not have a microscope, you are flying blind. You said you "think". There is no thinking or guessing with a scope. You either see them or you don't. If you have them, you WILL see eggs, but it has to be a 100X scope. Sounds like you don't have one yet.

 

[LEDNewbie]

I have a 100x scope. I see lots of perfectly circular bumps. Some are perfectly clear, some are opaque and some are a darker brown.

Reason I said I "think" is because I don't think those are eggs??? Rather water droplets or resin glands??? What do you think?

Plants were treated to avid two weeks ago and then heat treated 3-4 days ago. Clones were taken from my vegging plants before I knew I had mites.

 

[LEDNewbie]

Also if it was thrips you'd think I'd see them no? Also don't thrips leave a silvery looking damage?

 

[RetroGrow]

I have a 100x scope. I see lots of perfectly circular bumps. Some are perfectly clear, some are opaque and some are a darker brown.

Reason I said I "think" is because I don't think those are eggs??? Rather water droplets or resin glands??? What do you think?

Plants were treated to avid two weeks ago and then heat treated 3-4 days ago. Clones were taken from my vegging plants before I knew I had mites.

Are they on the underside of the leaves? Broad mite eggs have little bumps/dimples on them. Cyclamen mites do not have the bumps. Pictures can be found in this thread. I posted them several times a few pages back, or just Google Broad mite eggs for pictures. Usually they are on the underside of the leaves. There will be a lot of them. Google is your friend, in this case.

 

[LEDNewbie]

I'm gunna have to get a USB scope so you experts can tell me if in fact the round dots under my leafs are resin glands or eggs. If they are eggs then I have a TON of them!!!!

As looking on google and if in fact they are eggs they look like the cyclamen mite eggs!!!

Do the same treatments and pesticides work for cyclamen as they do for broads??

 

[LEDNewbie]

So did some quick reading on google. Seems as though cyclamen mites are pretty much the same as broad mites. Same pane the ass, both susceptible to heat. Same pesticides.

So before I completely give up growing. I will take one last good crack at getting rid of these fuckers. Here is my plan. Tomorrow I will go look for a USB scope as try and take some pics for you guys. Next I will dunk all my clones in some forbid. Then in 3-4 days I will do another heat treatment. This time I will keep the room as close to 120 as possible and will leave it there for 2 hours that way I'm sure all walls, equipment and etc have gotten up to temp in my veg room. Then 3-4 days after that I will treat the plants to a dunk in some triple threat neem oil. Then 3 days after that give them a dunk in some mighty wash. 3 days after that I should have everything I need to brew my tea with the 5 beneficial bacteria and soil drench and foliage with that.

What do you guys think about that plan of attack? Inbetween all those treatments I will treat my veg room to a heat treatment every 2 weeks.

Once my flowering plants are done in 2-3 weeks I will hear treat that room to 130 degrees for 2-3 hours. Then 2 weeks into flower do another heat treatment.

Do you guys think there is anymore I could do or something you would do differently? I'm looking for complete 100% death of these fuckers!!! I even planning on doing a heat treatment in my lung room.

 

[moodster]

i picked up a usb scope turns out all the "eggs" are trichomes not a mite anywhere

 

[eric2028]

led relax bro. i know this stuff can have u second guessing yourself nonstop and questioning your growing skills constantly. truth is as long as your not seeing live ones then its likely you have em under control. do u still have living ones?? prolly yes hiding out somewhere. if your "eggs" are spread out in any sorta order or pattern there prolly not eggs but resin glands or such. bm eggs are large and usually in clumps here n there( from my experience). also overspraying avid and forbid alone can cause bm symptoms too. forbid is tougher on the plants and takes up to 10 days to kill. avid is better in my opinion but doesnt kill eggs. two treatments 5 days apart will do the trick. heat treatment sounds like icing on the cake bro. so make ''control'' the word of the day, maybe not total eradacation unfortunately. dig in as this will prolly be ongoing but is part of growing! good luck bro!

 

[Kcar]

In the picture of the leaf above, there seems to be something at the base
where the leaves meet. Could be russets.

 

[Aeroguerilla]

avid + floramite = death to all mites

 

[mmj916]

So did some quick reading on google. Seems as though cyclamen mites are pretty much the same as broad mites. Same pane the ass, both susceptible to heat. Same pesticides.

So before I completely give up growing. I will take one last good crack at getting rid of these fuckers. Here is my plan. Tomorrow I will go look for a USB scope as try and take some pics for you guys. Next I will dunk all my clones in some forbid. Then in 3-4 days I will do another heat treatment. This time I will keep the room as close to 120 as possible and will leave it there for 2 hours that way I'm sure all walls, equipment and etc have gotten up to temp in my veg room. Then 3-4 days after that I will treat the plants to a dunk in some triple threat neem oil. Then 3 days after that give them a dunk in some mighty wash. 3 days after that I should have everything I need to brew my tea with the 5 beneficial bacteria and soil drench and foliage with that.

What do you guys think about that plan of attack? In between all those treatments I will treat my veg room to a heat treatment every 2 weeks...


...Do you guys think there is anymore I could do or something you would do differently?...

1. Pick up some Avid & make a batch in water, 1.5ml per gallon. Plain water, no wetting agents or other nutes.

2. Go through your mothers & trim off large fan leaves & other foilage you could get away with; OR, take cuts from your moms, reducing all your mothers down to a smaller height (this is preparing your backups, in case you lose your moms, and it's also allowing you easier access to nooks & crevices for your upcoming Avid spray).

3. Dip your cuttings in the Avid, then place them in cups. Inside these cups, have a low level of water (enough that all the cuttings can reach water, but you don't want have the stem sitting half-deep in water - it will rot). If you have several mothers/strains, you'll have several cups. After finishing this, place your cups onto a standard 10x20 flat tray, grab a humidity dome & spray it with water (to keep humidity high), and place dome over tray. This will keep your cuts good to go until you're ready to work on making them into clones (I've found that it's best to not let them sit more than 3-5 days). By the time you're ready to work on these, the Avid will be absorbed.

4. Now, your moms should be very minimal compared to before taking your cuts. You are going to be spraying Avid, and the less you need to spray, the better. Therefore, having your moms as small as possible is a big plus.

5. Suit up (splash goggles, respirator mask, chemical splash suit, rubber boots, gloves [2 layers: latex/nitrile base, with elbow-length chemical-resistant gloves over]). All of these can be gotten at home depot, most expensive piece is the respirator @ $25-30. If you're going to be using chemicals like Avid, etc, it would be very wise to suit up before doing so.

6. Turn out the lights in your room & wait until the leaf surface of your moms has cooled down a bit. (Obviously you can't see in a pitch-black room, so a low light from something is going to be needed to see).

7. Spray your moms.

8. Keep the lights off (preferred), or at least remain at a low level of light (this doesn't mean turning down a 1k ballast to 600w). I'm thinking along the lines of 1 little CFL/flourescent in the corner.

9. Keep lights off at least several hours, up to 24hrs dark.

10. Plug your new clones like usual and smile because you have backups JUST IN CASE your moms don't make it (Fresh cuttings can handle the Avid dip, everything I'm typing is tried & true.)

11. Enjoy seeing fresh, new growth from your moms in the upcoming days! =)

12. Treat your mothers 1 more time at around the 5-7 day mark.

13. Ensure you're using uncoated Aspirin in your feedings @ 325mg/gal

Avid should be just fine. No need to worry so much about it not killing eggs. As soon as those eggs hatch, they will die after taking their first bite!

 

[Storm Shadow]

1. Pick up some Avid & make a batch in water, 1.5ml per gallon. Plain water, no wetting agents or other nutes.

2. Go through your mothers & trim off large fan leaves & other foilage you could get away with; OR, take cuts from your moms, reducing all your mothers down to a smaller height (this is preparing your backups, in case you lose your moms, and it's also allowing you easier access to nooks & crevices for your upcoming Avid spray).

3. Dip your cuttings in the Avid, then place them in cups. Inside these cups, have a low level of water (enough that all the cuttings can reach water, but you don't want have the stem sitting half-deep in water - it will rot). If you have several mothers/strains, you'll have several cups. After finishing this, place your cups onto a standard 10x20 flat tray, grab a humidity dome & spray it with water (to keep humidity high), and place dome over tray. This will keep your cuts good to go until you're ready to work on making them into clones (I've found that it's best to not let them sit more than 3-5 days). By the time you're ready to work on these, the Avid will be absorbed.

4. Now, your moms should be very minimal compared to before taking your cuts. You are going to be spraying Avid, and the less you need to spray, the better. Therefore, having your moms as small as possible is a big plus.

5. Suit up (splash goggles, respirator mask, chemical splash suit, rubber boots, gloves [2 layers: latex/nitrile base, with elbow-length chemical-resistant gloves over]). All of these can be gotten at home depot, most expensive piece is the respirator @ $25-30. If you're going to be using chemicals like Avid, etc, it would be very wise to suit up before doing so.

6. Turn out the lights in your room & wait until the leaf surface of your moms has cooled down a bit. (Obviously you can't see in a pitch-black room, so a low light from something is going to be needed to see).

7. Spray your moms.

8. Keep the lights off (preferred), or at least remain at a low level of light (this doesn't mean turning down a 1k ballast to 600w). I'm thinking along the lines of 1 little CFL/flourescent in the corner.

9. Keep lights off at least several hours, up to 24hrs dark.

10. Plug your new clones like usual and smile because you have backups JUST IN CASE your moms don't make it (Fresh cuttings can handle the Avid dip, everything I'm typing is tried & true.)

11. Enjoy seeing fresh, new growth from your moms in the upcoming days! =)

12. Treat your mothers 1 more time at around the 5-7 day mark.

13. Ensure you're using uncoated Aspirin in your feedings @ 325mg/gal

Avid should be just fine. No need to worry so much about it not killing eggs. As soon as those eggs hatch, they will die after taking their first bite!

Wrong ... The room needs to be warm for Avid to even do its thing...

Avid with LIGHTS ON

 

[dalilguy]

Broad Mites?

Warm ok.. But avid with LIGHTS ON I'd be careful with.. Specially the guys running with close 6's an 1k's.

 

[Storm Shadow]

Again if anyone actually reads the first few pages of this thread ...they'd know that using a wetting agent with Avid will prevent any issues with the lights on... In one room I run (6) 1000 watt hps lights over (2) 4x8 trays ...and I spray Avid right underneath them with ZERO ISSUES.....

Damn Bro Science is going to clog this thread to high hell...its already filled with endless pages of Crap b4 you get some good info ...

I was killing broadmites for fun when most people on here thought they had TMV..

Avid with the lights on will kill 99% of them with the first spray... couple follow ups with Forbid/Avid and your gravy...

I swear the next person who says Floramite kills broadmites is a fucken idiot