Broad Mites?

[eric2028]

searchingforit: early stages of bm damage in flower will look like slight burning on ur fluffy pistils. when mine first started i kept raising my light thinking it was too close.

 

[searchingforit]

Both pictures show the leaf tips going sideways and mottling occuring. The mottle is only happening on one pheno of one strain in a room of many plants. It has been showing this mottling for a while so I can't think it's TMV/hmv. If not BM what, then? I thought that was tell tale BM sign (leaf tip sideways especially)

 

[Oliver Pantsoff]

Very hard to get TMV...Your leaves looks like it might have been infected by BM's..Look in this thread for a comparison...Get that aspirin ready, so you can atleast save your harvest...

OP

 

[Kcar]

I would say not. BM's will chop off your pistils so they look like someone gave them
a crew cut. And you'll see tacoing of the sides of leaves and stippling.

 

[LEDNewbie]

I recently got a replacement for a broken microscope, a usb endoscope with record capabilities.
So i found 2-3 weeks after the first heat treatment they have just started to come back. So i cut off a bunch of sample infested leaves/tips, and shot video of them at close to 500x.
Then i set the space up with multiple thermometers as i had a hunch the heat was not homogenous in there. I tied thermometers to plant stems at different heights, some right in the middle canopy, some top and some bottom. I then heated the space up and found upto a 5-10 degrees C difference within the space. It was much cooler lower and right in the midlle of the bush near the meri stem(plants natural cooling system). Essentialy i found cool spots in the 50C 120f heat i had in the space. I got the air moving around in the space by adding more space heaters set on just fan and no heat( they are a fan that wont burn out at that temp), blowing the 120f heat around the space and through the cool spots.
Kept that up for an hour and cooled the space and plants and another hour later took leave and tip samples. All adults dead, have not found a single live one and i took videos of the dead mite bodies. I really cant say about the eggs but i can say for sure nymphs and adults die.
I will find a way to cut stills out of the videos and post em.
I also still have a bunch of infected leaves and tips in a sealed container i will be running some before and after pics as i do some experiements on what safely kills them and what doesnt.
Much respect
Moonunit

Please keep us informed of what you find out from your tests!

 

[LEDNewbie]

I had my only successful run in a year last run. I am positive it was because I was brewing tea containing the above fungi, I religiously used the stuff because I wanted to see if it made a difference. I used both foliar and drench application methods.

I ran out of it and didn't use it this veg, I had only given one application a couple days before I realized I had BM. I feel confident I can manage populations using it. It has to be what made the difference.....

Plants look even better tonight....

I'm planning on brewing teas with those fungi in it from CAPs tea/OG BIO War.....

How often were you applying your tea? And did you use tea at full strength or diluted down? Thanks.

 

[LadyV]

I'm planning on brewing teas with those fungi in it from CAPs tea/OG BIO War.....

How often were you applying your tea? And did you use tea at full strength or diluted down? Thanks.

I used it once a week. I've applied at full strength and diluted.

I used it full strength my first two applications (my logic was get as many army's deployed I could!), then I moved to using about 500 ml to a gallon of R/O in my sprayer - which is still overkill.
(Use the pump kind with the wand, the regular spray bottles 45 degree neck can chop the fungi into pieces).

I also used it the first two weeks full strength as a root drench - pouring about a cup over the crown of my pots. After that, once a week I'd take my leftover like 10-15 gallons of nute solution and add back about 25 gallons to make a "weekly flush" and then dump the rest of it in there and water with that.

The standard dilution is a cup to 5 gallons, but I brewed like 2 gals and wanted to use it all.

I brew once a week, start it 24 hours before my intended use and use everything up within a few hours of it being finished.

 

[RetroGrow]

Is this broad mites?

[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=42361&pictureid=1021143&thumb=1]View Image[/URL] [URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=42361&pictureid=1021142&thumb=1]View Image[/URL]

The only way to be sure is to check them with a scope. You can see the eggs on the underside of the leaves, even if you can't see the BMs, who like to hide out.
You need a 100X scope to see them. Can buy a cheap one @ Radio Shack for $10, or @ Amazon. Don't wait or guess. Get the scope.

 

[RetroGrow]

I recently got a replacement for a broken microscope, a usb endoscope with record capabilities.
So i found 2-3 weeks after the first heat treatment they have just started to come back. So i cut off a bunch of sample infested leaves/tips, and shot video of them at close to 500x.
Then i set the space up with multiple thermometers as i had a hunch the heat was not homogenous in there. I tied thermometers to plant stems at different heights, some right in the middle canopy, some top and some bottom. I then heated the space up and found upto a 5-10 degrees C difference within the space. It was much cooler lower and right in the midlle of the bush near the meri stem(plants natural cooling system). Essentialy i found cool spots in the 50C 120f heat i had in the space. I got the air moving around in the space by adding more space heaters set on just fan and no heat( they are a fan that wont burn out at that temp), blowing the 120f heat around the space and through the cool spots.
Kept that up for an hour and cooled the space and plants and another hour later took leave and tip samples. All adults dead, have not found a single live one and i took videos of the dead mite bodies. I really cant say about the eggs but i can say for sure nymphs and adults die.
I will find a way to cut stills out of the videos and post em.
I also still have a bunch of infected leaves and tips in a sealed container i will be running some before and after pics as i do some experiements on what safely kills them and what doesnt.
Much respect
Moonunit

Yeah, good job. I forgot to mention: heat rises, and, depending on the size of your room, temperatures can be different in different areas. If plants are on the floor, put something under them to raise them up, like those milk crates you find behind grocery stores. You want temps to be consistent all around all of your plants, which might take moving things around. Good idea to have several thermometers to monitor temperatures in different areas, and something to move the hot air around without lowering temps. Also, remember, although there might not be a single mite left alive in your room, they can still be elsewhere in the house/yard, and they will come back, so eternal vigilance is essential. Repeat treatment as necessary.
RG

 

[moonunit]

Yeah, good job. I forgot to mention: heat rises, and, depending on the size of your room, temperatures can be different in different areas. If plants are on the floor, put something under them to raise them up, like those milk crates you find behind grocery stores. You want temps to be consistent all around all of your plants, which might take moving things around. Good idea to have several thermometers to monitor temperatures in different areas, and something to move the hot air around without lowering temps. Also, remember, although there might not be a single mite left alive in your room, they can still be elsewhere in the house/yard, and they will come back, so eternal vigilance is essential. Repeat treatment as necessary.
RG

Being a breeder with a large genetic library to maintain i had to take these things very serious. I started playing with your idea after you first posted it up on this thread and have treated about 7 different spaces with the tech now, but only got a replacement for my microscope recently so was reluctant to say anything here just based on me seeing no new symptoms, i wanted to see and record their eridication.
. Its was always going to be hottest at the top of the space, but at the same vertical height there can be pockets of cooler temps on the horizontal plane.The room i had just treated was all 5 foot tall mother bushes in a 1000w vert space. Its harder to get homogenous heat in the taller, bushier plants as they naturaly create a cooler micro climate within the dense foliage and one can overheat parts of the plant trying to get cool spots up to 120f. Once the temp gets high enough for the stomata to close the micro climate gets less transpirative cooling but still remains cooler. I also found opening out or tieing out bushy plants to let the 120f air in and reduce the micro climate seems to work well.
On treating the yards, done and done, i started spraying in circles from the grow spaces, moving outwards till had done the whole yard at every site, and i must say, bm,s live on loads of ornamentals as well as veges, they love peppers and citrus. I had to take out a lemon and a lime tree that were absolutely crawling with em and all my beautiful chillis. I spray the yards with a 15litre backpack pump sprayer using neem, a sulfer based miticide and fungicide and a botanical oil based miticide.
Based on the small reinfestion i now am going to be doing a heat treatment every 2 weeks on every space except later flowing spaces.
I must also say my latest encounter wasnt a big reinfestion at all, just a few tips and leafs on one plant, but best to get them early as possible and i treated all the plants and the space to be safe.
I will add all i can here now info wise from my personal experience with battling these little plague mites and using retros heated air idea to do so.
Much respect
Moonunit

 

[RetroGrow]

Being a breeder with a large genetic library to maintain i had to take these things very serious. I started playing with your idea after you first posted it up on this thread and have treated about 7 different spaces with the tech now, but only got a replacement for my microscope recently so was reluctant to say anything here just based on me seeing no new symptoms, i wanted to see and record their eridication.
. Its was always going to be hottest at the top of the space, but at the same vertical height there can be pockets of cooler temps on the horizontal plane.The room i had just treated was all 5 foot tall mother bushes in a 1000w vert space. Its harder to get homogenous heat in the taller, bushier plants as they naturaly create a cooler micro climate within the dense foliage and one can overheat parts of the plant trying to get cool spots up to 120f. Once the temp gets high enough for the stomata to close the micro climate gets less transpirative cooling but still remains cooler. I also found opening out or tieing out bushy plants to let the 120f air in and reduce the micro climate seems to work well.
On treating the yards, done and done, i started spraying in circles from the grow spaces, moving outwards till had done the whole yard at every site, and i must say, bm,s live on loads of ornamentals as well as veges, they love peppers and citrus. I had to take out a lemon and a lime tree that were absolutely crawling with em and all my beautiful chillis. I spray the yards with a 15litre backpack pump sprayer using neem, a sulfer based miticide and fungicide and a botanical oil based miticide.
Based on the small reinfestion i now am going to be doing a heat treatment every 2 weeks on every space except later flowing spaces.
I must also say my latest encounter wasnt a big reinfestion at all, just a few tips and leafs on one plant, but best to get them early as possible and i treated all the plants and the space to be safe.
I will add all i can here now info wise from my personal experience with battling these little plague mites and using retros heated air idea to do so.
Much respect
Moonunit

Yow! Lemon & lime trees right in your yard! That, along with mangoes is their favorite food! Anyone who lives near citrus or fruit orchards is at risk. No surprise you got them. Another common source of "infection" is cut flowers. NEVER bring cut flowers home, as they are usually infested. And no ornamental plants from Walmart/Home Depot, etc. These places are crawling with them. Don't even go into a garden shop browsing plants, as they will get on you. These things are ubiquitous, which is what makes them such a problem, especially in warm weather areas. Add that to the sharing of clones, and you have an epidemic.

 

[moonunit]

A still sequence taken from one of my videos of live broadmites before heat treatment, first is a younger bm, it seemed to be feeding in the fold in the leaf.

 

[moonunit]

Then a full adult cruises up the side of the leaf, the are alot faster than i thought they would be

 

[moonunit]

And now these are stills of dead mites after the heat treatment

 

[moonunit]

I searched for over an hour after the heat treament and nothing moved at all, just dead mites, absolutely nothing moving .
Sorry about the quality of the pics, its a cheap usb endo scope and stills taken from vid always loses abit of quality
Much respect
moonunit

 

[LEDNewbie]

All I know is my veg room will get the heat treatment every 3-4 weeks plus a full course of systemic mitecides.

Flower room will get a full heat treatment at the end of every cycle plus vegg plants will get treated with Avid or Forbid right before flipping to flower.....

Also during vegg and 4 weeks into flower plants will get foliar sprayed weekly with a Tea that has 5 different strains of bacteria that kills bugs.

From now on it will be a 110% effort on bug prevention!!! No more waiting for them to come around!!!!

 

[Dr. Purpur]

Systemic?................ That doesn't sound too good to me.

 

[RetroGrow]

I searched for over an hour after the heat treament and nothing moved at all, just dead mites, absolutely nothing moving .
Sorry about the quality of the pics, its a cheap usb endo scope and stills taken from vid always loses abit of quality
Much respect
moonunit

Nice pictures!

 

[RetroGrow]

All I know is my veg room will get the heat treatment every 3-4 weeks plus a full course of systemic mitecides.

Flower room will get a full heat treatment at the end of every cycle plus vegg plants will get treated with Avid or Forbid right before flipping to flower.....

Also during vegg and 4 weeks into flower plants will get foliar sprayed weekly with a Tea that has 5 different strains of bacteria that kills bugs.

From now on it will be a 110% effort on bug prevention!!! No more waiting for them to come around!!!!

Forbid is pretty nasty stuff. It lingers. I would only use it if absolutely no alternative in early veg, not right before the flip. Anyway, with heat, you don't really need it. You can only kill each individual once......
The tea sounds like a good idea.......

 

[LEDNewbie]

I'm not going to panic but I just looked at my new clones and it appears I see some little brown dots on the new leafs like I did last time!!!! Going to cut a few leafs off and scope them. Maybe those brown dots are damage done before heat treatment??? Guess I'll find out if I have any survivors tomorrow. If I do, then I don't know what say? I had the room at 120 for an hour and 125 for 15-20 min!!!!!