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Broad mites: ID and Organic Antidotes that work!
- Thread starter FatherEarth
- Start date
Redlaser that's what I think when looking at them - deficiency. I don't think it's tmv, it seems a lot of people think there olant may have tmv when it's usually bm's, iread that there is no scientific proof that tmv effects cannabis.
Mikell, I know bro like I was just saying to redlaser exactly what I think when I look at them. EC & pH are fine, they do not dry out (in coco) pH is 6-6.2, EC is 1.3 - tap water's EC is 0.5 and they're hand feed once daily until run off which has been EC1.0 - 1.2 and pH 5.8 - 6.
Another fruitless day searching for eggs and mites
This is really becoming frustrating!! I did manage to get a couple micro shots of the leaves although they're not the clearest as they're taken through my cheap scope via my cheap camera
The Sleestacks are looking bad again, 2 says after I stripped down the damage leaves on them more damage has appeared. Looks most like potassium def from pics I found. I'm quickly loosing my patience with them as I haven't found any bugs and the other plants seem to be coming back in terms of colour and growth.
Terminal bud
Twisted leaves
Mikell, I know bro like I was just saying to redlaser exactly what I think when I look at them. EC & pH are fine, they do not dry out (in coco) pH is 6-6.2, EC is 1.3 - tap water's EC is 0.5 and they're hand feed once daily until run off which has been EC1.0 - 1.2 and pH 5.8 - 6.
Another fruitless day searching for eggs and mites
This is really becoming frustrating!! I did manage to get a couple micro shots of the leaves although they're not the clearest as they're taken through my cheap scope via my cheap camera
The Sleestacks are looking bad again, 2 says after I stripped down the damage leaves on them more damage has appeared. Looks most like potassium def from pics I found. I'm quickly loosing my patience with them as I haven't found any bugs and the other plants seem to be coming back in terms of colour and growth.
Terminal bud
Twisted leaves
_tessarecting
ஓ
Im seeing the same thing on some of mine, leaf turn, red stem, weak leaves, yellowing, leaf curl up, dead leaves when conditions were fine, so I treated for BM and am spraying every couple days after doing a gnarly dunk...
Never had bugs this bad, its crazy, my eyes suck, I cant see anything with a 60x, im going to go lay down some potatos...
Never had bugs this bad, its crazy, my eyes suck, I cant see anything with a 60x, im going to go lay down some potatos...
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Well I had a good look for eggs today, nearly 2 hours in all, but all I found was what I believe to be capitate sessile trichs fortunately
I removed about 20 or so damaged leafs from from all over the sleestacks. Also checked the growing shoots, leafs all over the plant and stems of everything else with the 60-100x scope. Found nothing but more cap trichs, bits of coco, hairs and dust.
I read BMs damage pistils I didn't see any browning or recessed pistils. On top of this plants have regained some colour and are looking a little better. First time in a couple weeks they had leaves pointing upward to soak up light. I'm stumped man! Seriously, I know these things are hard to find but I would've thought I'd find at least one egg if they were present.
I'll do the same tomorrow maybe I missed something but I was real thorough on the sleestacks as they looked the worst. I checked for root aphids too and didn't see anything although I didn't scope the roots as the RA's I've seen in pics were easily seen by the naked eye.
There are no springtails either I've had those and know what to look for. I don't remember them doing much harm either did the plants look like shit while I had them.
A true mystery at this stage... I've grown in here with this tent and bulb, trays and pots before so I've ruled out dodgy bulb or offgassing. Unless they pop up in my next couple of inspections I'm going to rule BMs/Cyclamen for the minute. Couldn't get pics with the scope and my camera unfortunately. Keep blurring when I tried to look down the scope with it, any tips?
What do you guys think about the plants?
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This looks like off gassing to me.
What kind of tent?
No eggs under affected leaves=no BMs.
BM info and what damage looks like needs to be posted again.
and to clarify, from the day you see obvious signs of BM damage you already have a infestation with 100s--1000s.
by this time a simple 30x loupe or preferably a 60-100x scope will show the BMs and their eggs on the bottoms and tops of the leaves
with prime feeding areas on the new growth tip.
the eggs are very, VERY distinct and easy to spot sign, you'll probably see the eggs before the mite.
by this time the eggs-n-BMs are everywhere, from the bottoms to the tops of leaves.
BMs are territorial, but as population explodes with 1000s vying for prime territory they lay eggs anywhere they can,
and move out into less desirable feeding areas on the tops of leaves and eventually on the less desirable
bigger older growth leaves.
symptoms starts with new growth leave shriveling and taking on a sickly yellow color,
depending on lighting it may be more yellow/gray
2 pics of the same plant/same time under diff. lites.
these pics are around a week after the 1st signs of symptoms showing.
with successful treatment these plants will recover.
.
.
within 2wks of signs of BM damage and with a favorable environment
the plants are toast and not worth trying to save other than trying to get possible cuts
and to clarify, from the day you see obvious signs of BM damage you already have a infestation with 100s--1000s.
by this time a simple 30x loupe or preferably a 60-100x scope will show the BMs and their eggs on the bottoms and tops of the leaves
with prime feeding areas on the new growth tip.
the eggs are very, VERY distinct and easy to spot sign, you'll probably see the eggs before the mite.
by this time the eggs-n-BMs are everywhere, from the bottoms to the tops of leaves.
BMs are territorial, but as population explodes with 1000s vying for prime territory they lay eggs anywhere they can,
and move out into less desirable feeding areas on the tops of leaves and eventually on the less desirable
bigger older growth leaves.
symptoms starts with new growth leave shriveling and taking on a sickly yellow color,
depending on lighting it may be more yellow/gray
2 pics of the same plant/same time under diff. lites.
these pics are around a week after the 1st signs of symptoms showing.
with successful treatment these plants will recover.
.
.
within 2wks of signs of BM damage and with a favorable environment
the plants are toast and not worth trying to save other than trying to get possible cuts
Guys.... i feel like a total dumbass. Removed the sleestacks from their pots and checked the roots on them, they hadnt even nearly filled the 10Ls with roots [slaps head, mutters doh!] Seems like I've been drowning the poor things!
On a positive note I guess I know all about Broad/ Cyclamen mites now
Thanks to eveyone who tried helping out. Sorry I was a clutz!
On a positive note I guess I know all about Broad/ Cyclamen mites now
Thanks to eveyone who tried helping out. Sorry I was a clutz!
Guys.... i feel like a total dumbass. Removed the sleestacks from their pots and checked the roots on them, they hadnt even nearly filled the 10Ls with roots [slaps head, mutters doh!] Seems like I've been drowning the poor things!
On a positive note I guess I know all about Broad/ Cyclamen mites now
Thanks to eveyone who tried helping out. Sorry I was a clutz!
Two most common growing problems:
1. Over watering
2. Over feeding
thanks for those pics gnome, really does illustrate the damage they to plants in flowering.
hopefully zooty is still tuned into this thread and can see some new pics of damaged cannabis from broads
hopefully zooty is still tuned into this thread and can see some new pics of damaged cannabis from broads
Forbid for the Eggs and Kontos for the rest of them... Adios
Seriously... its as easy as 3 treatments and they will never return..
People that offer endless advice... ask to see their pics... very important...this way the Arm Chair Alpha Posters calm down ...
Truth is...there are over 10 products labeled for the complete destruction of these critters..
Current genetics and pics of your so called advice help a lot more than repeating the same garbage for years and years
OG Kush, GSC, GG4,,, Ive grown them all out from collectives covered in BUGS..... couple sprays....adios and move on
Seriously... its as easy as 3 treatments and they will never return..
People that offer endless advice... ask to see their pics... very important...this way the Arm Chair Alpha Posters calm down ...
Truth is...there are over 10 products labeled for the complete destruction of these critters..
Current genetics and pics of your so called advice help a lot more than repeating the same garbage for years and years
OG Kush, GSC, GG4,,, Ive grown them all out from collectives covered in BUGS..... couple sprays....adios and move on
Pylon is bad ass because its dual action to kill nematodes also
Kontos drench with a foliar treatment of Forbid at the same time... do the same thing 7-10 days later... that should be it..
Mix in the Pylon and it just makes everything happened way faster .. Just treat your cuts like this and veg them out for a month...take new cuts and they should be free of everything without further treatment
Kontos drench with a foliar treatment of Forbid at the same time... do the same thing 7-10 days later... that should be it..
Mix in the Pylon and it just makes everything happened way faster .. Just treat your cuts like this and veg them out for a month...take new cuts and they should be free of everything without further treatment
Bongstar420
Member
I have exactly the same thing.
These plants are on soil which has been cropped for 2 years at a rate of 5.5crop/year. They do not leach in veg and are leached at a rate of 7% in flower with most of it at the end. The nutrients are mostly recycled and additions are typically things like wood ash and compost with mostly Urea and Ammonia as added N.
I also have "dudding" and sometimes revive them if I decide I wanna save the cut. Sometimes I loose them. Its mostly do to wet feet and careless handling by me when I do loose them as I have a process that seems to work when done "correctly." I avoid reviving a fully dudded plant as that takes a while and I suspect they have active mite as one of the few plants that fully "dudded" on me showed heavy predatory mite feeding. I think dudding is accumulated stress toxicity and possibly a virus which the mites transmit. Its most likely build up of toxin, reduction of plant defense/health chemistry which rebound is inhibited by the toxin, and associated RNA changes. The trick is to kill the toxin and get the RNA expressed "normally."
I can tell you one thing, I've grown with these mites/dudding for months now and apparently it doesn't do a whole lot. I can grow duds that are slightly better than average and is really only noticeable when you compare it to the good part of the crop or other better historical runs of the cut. You can harvest +20% THC duds for sure
These plants are on soil which has been cropped for 2 years at a rate of 5.5crop/year. They do not leach in veg and are leached at a rate of 7% in flower with most of it at the end. The nutrients are mostly recycled and additions are typically things like wood ash and compost with mostly Urea and Ammonia as added N.
I also have "dudding" and sometimes revive them if I decide I wanna save the cut. Sometimes I loose them. Its mostly do to wet feet and careless handling by me when I do loose them as I have a process that seems to work when done "correctly." I avoid reviving a fully dudded plant as that takes a while and I suspect they have active mite as one of the few plants that fully "dudded" on me showed heavy predatory mite feeding. I think dudding is accumulated stress toxicity and possibly a virus which the mites transmit. Its most likely build up of toxin, reduction of plant defense/health chemistry which rebound is inhibited by the toxin, and associated RNA changes. The trick is to kill the toxin and get the RNA expressed "normally."
I can tell you one thing, I've grown with these mites/dudding for months now and apparently it doesn't do a whole lot. I can grow duds that are slightly better than average and is really only noticeable when you compare it to the good part of the crop or other better historical runs of the cut. You can harvest +20% THC duds for sure
Well I had a good look for eggs today, nearly 2 hours in all, but all I found was what I believe to be capitate sessile trichs fortunately
I removed about 20 or so damaged leafs from from all over the sleestacks. Also checked the growing shoots, leafs all over the plant and stems of everything else with the 60-100x scope. Found nothing but more cap trichs, bits of coco, hairs and dust.
I read BMs damage pistils I didn't see any browning or recessed pistils. On top of this plants have regained some colour and are looking a little better. First time in a couple weeks they had leaves pointing upward to soak up light. I'm stumped man! Seriously, I know these things are hard to find but I would've thought I'd find at least one egg if they were present.
I'll do the same tomorrow maybe I missed something but I was real thorough on the sleestacks as they looked the worst. I checked for root aphids too and didn't see anything although I didn't scope the roots as the RA's I've seen in pics were easily seen by the naked eye.
There are no springtails either I've had those and know what to look for. I don't remember them doing much harm either did the plants look like shit while I had them.
A true mystery at this stage... I've grown in here with this tent and bulb, trays and pots before so I've ruled out dodgy bulb or offgassing. Unless they pop up in my next couple of inspections I'm going to rule BMs/Cyclamen for the minute. Couldn't get pics with the scope and my camera unfortunately. Keep blurring when I tried to look down the scope with it, any tips?
What do you guys think about the plants?
View Image
View Image
Psa off topic
The reason why the natural organic mite spray Gaurdian works so well is it has a (recently detected) secret ingredient. Avid. No shit, they just got busted by my favorite lab in Eugene Oregon. O G Analytical. The owner of the company even copped to it in a statement.
http://www.oregonlive.com/marijuana...lags_potential_problem.html#incart_river_home
The reason why the natural organic mite spray Gaurdian works so well is it has a (recently detected) secret ingredient. Avid. No shit, they just got busted by my favorite lab in Eugene Oregon. O G Analytical. The owner of the company even copped to it in a statement.
http://www.oregonlive.com/marijuana...lags_potential_problem.html#incart_river_home
Bongstar420
Member
Chitosan, fulvic, micro/NPK foliar with chitosan, fulvic, aspirin on top of your properly constructed nute program. Let the plants dry till near wilting between waterings. Don't spray aspirin as it closes stomata and arrests absorption at that time. Don't spray anything that is meant to be absorbed 24hrs around aspirin. Don't use cytokines as they are probably part of the problem. Auxins in the spray will give you single leaf plants.
Maybe consider doing STS. If its virus/phytoplasma, Silver will probably make the disease more unhappy then the plant.
...but like I said, most of time, its not worth 3-12 months just to keep a cut you could copy fairly easily with seed. The vast majority of pathogen problems will be cured with a breed and sodium hypochlorite cleaned seed. If you are truely worried about germ line infections or something that can get into the seed, you could heat treat the seed at 120f for an hr or two. I left a few hundred seed in my trunk all day long on a 95f day with no germ loss-car in the full sun
Maybe consider doing STS. If its virus/phytoplasma, Silver will probably make the disease more unhappy then the plant.
...but like I said, most of time, its not worth 3-12 months just to keep a cut you could copy fairly easily with seed. The vast majority of pathogen problems will be cured with a breed and sodium hypochlorite cleaned seed. If you are truely worried about germ line infections or something that can get into the seed, you could heat treat the seed at 120f for an hr or two. I left a few hundred seed in my trunk all day long on a 95f day with no germ loss-car in the full sun
please elaborate your process
R
Robrites
off- off topic
off- off topic
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=7312597#post7312597
off- off topic
Started an Oregon thread - this looks like a good post for it.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=7312597#post7312597
