Broad mites: ID and Organic Antidotes that work!

[Robrites]

Anyone ever tried this stuff?

Met52® EC
Target pests: Root aphids, thrips, whiteflies, vine weevils, aphids, russet mites, two-spotted spider mites, broad mites, blemisia!
Met52® EC is a fungal spore that effectively control pests with a contact infection. This beneficial microorganism is easy to use and works fast - controlling insects in 3 to 7 days. Met52® EC offers outstanding plant protection for many crops, including greenhouse ornamentals, protected vegetables, and outdoor fruits and vegetables.

Key benefits of Met52®

No known insect resistance
Duration of action: one full growing season
Won't harm your beneficial bugs
No toxicological classification
No chemical residue or harvest restrictions

http://www.evergreengrowers.com/met52-119/met52-ec-new-formula/met52-ec.html

 

[Foreverfamily]

Nothing organic will kill broad mites. I've tried heat treatments and spinosad and they do not work

there are many things... pfr-97, grandevo, and even nuk-em works...

 

[redlaser]

Anyone ever tried this stuff?

Met52® EC
Target pests: Root aphids, thrips, whiteflies, vine weevils, aphids, russet mites, two-spotted spider mites, broad mites, blemisia!
Met52® EC is a fungal spore that effectively control pests with a contact infection. This beneficial microorganism is easy to use and works fast - controlling insects in 3 to 7 days. Met52® EC offers outstanding plant protection for many crops, including greenhouse ornamentals, protected vegetables, and outdoor fruits and vegetables.

Key benefits of Met52®

No known insect resistance
Duration of action: one full growing season
Won't harm your beneficial bugs
No toxicological classification
No chemical residue or harvest restrictions

http://www.evergreengrowers.com/met52-119/met52-ec-new-formula/met52-ec.html

met52, or Metarhizium anisopilae is a soil born fungus like pfr 97. It would be good to hear from those that have tried both for a comparison. Seems logical that it would show up in testing for contaminants though if testing will be done on the end product.

 

[_tessarecting]

Yeah I've heard about places in Berkeley/Oakland refusing to accept any herb with basillus thuringiensis on it! How crazy is that? Keeping out the outdoor vendors or what?

No one acrually thinks organic controls are hindering "the product" do they?

 

[Bongstar420]

Sulfur is an industry go to (talking real horticulturalists here)...It works almost as good as Abamectin. Problem is too much Sulfur makes the plant harsh smoke. 1 treatment is like enough S for the entire crop and you need to do something like 5-10. High levels of S will increase acidity and leaching which is "bad" for the environment in some peoples eyes.

Careful with all this. I swear what I thought was broad mite wasn't mite at all as I am now getting better treatment not even spraying or doing anything that would directly effect a mite of any kind. If it is a mite, its an eriophyd that is dependent on some kind of microbe/virus infection and my treatments are combating the infection and not the mite.

Predatory mites only work in closed canopy. They don't perform well on full buds with 12hrs of light. You need continuous release. Looks like its swirskii for that atm. I've released multiple very high numbers (1000 per 100sqft) with out proper control.

The fungi will taint your crop with oil. You must spray continuously every 3 days to keep up with mite. It has about the kill rate of insecticidal soap. Maybe spray fungi then soap then fungi then soap then fungi then soap then water. The fungi reduce predator efficacy by direct contact and ingestion of infected prey.

If you want to feed facultivative mite predators, corn pollen.

EO sprays tend to create spray toxicity issues. They are about as good as straight soap sprays.

timm, have you tried essential oils for killing broads/russets.?? have you tried wettably sulfur sprays (i used garden fungicide from safer brand) i haven't used oils myself against bms'/hrms (but have been killing all other pests with essenstial oils), but i know people who have and they report that oil mixes can wipe out broads...
just saying, don't go all "nothing organic will work" unless you have tried all the organic options.... not just heat and spinosad available in the organic arsenal. also, i DID use wettable sulfur spray to kill HRM's when i had them, and that IS organic...

edit: also pfr & met are biological/organic right?

 

[_tessarecting]

Sulfur then rotating pfr and essential oils then releasing swirskiis killed these fuckers off for good here

 

[Mr. Roseberry]

Anyone ever actually removed the thermistor from their space heater? Just wondering how or what it even looks like. Google wasn't much help

 

[The Joker1]

I thought I had broads but it looks like tomato russets or hemp russets. Either way, these guys were resistant to everything.... avid, akari, pylon, forbid didn't do it. I'm sure I got it when I put a plant outside last year and brought it back in. My tomatoes looked like shit.

I got both Met52 and Botanigard. My entire yard was screwed. Lemon and Orange Trees, vegetable garden with peppers and veggies, magnolia tree.

I started applying Met52.... within 10 days everything turned around. I still find eggs, but new growth looks fantastic. Indoors, everything looks great. Scorched shit with Essentria IC3 which I threw in the trash.

I am now only using Met52, Botanigard and Master Nursery Pest fighter oil. So far, it's looking really good. All surfaces were cleaned with 10 % bleach and repainted when possible. New liners on floors etc. Also burned sulfur before painting.

Met52 got it faster. Started every other day, then every 3 days etc. Outdoor in SF Bay Area seems to be faster because of morning fog and high humidity.

 

[The Joker1]

Also. It's very important to thorough mix. I add a teaspoon of safers soap per gallon. It's been great. If you don't stir thoroughly it won't disperse and be as effective.

 

[GET MO]

why isn't this thread a sticky? I got some weird ass stuff on the underside and overside of a few leaves, thought broad mites but can't see any, maybe egg cases of hatched mites?

 

[mack 10]

Looks like broad mite eggs.
They have that crazy thing in the middle.

If essential oils are diluted properly
And not sprayed in direct light,
They will not harm the plant.
(From what I have seen anyway)

Heard insect frass mixed with compost tea to be used as dilute foliar spray to kill mite eggs.

Anyone know which frass to use or not use?

 

[Mikell]

 

[P-NUT]

Mikell, how high is the magnification in that pic?

 

[Mikell]

It's not mine. Google broad mites and it's in the first 50 results of the image search.

 

[Storm Shadow]

200X Zoom zoom Zoom

 

[The Joker1]

My follow up:

I was mistaken , I killed the russets a looong time ago. The russets gave my plants a disease which looked a lot like BM symtoms. I continued to burn my plants with any product of any dose because they were sensitive. Even met 32.

I lost irreplaceable moms. Started up again , and got symptoms again , but this time under reacted. I treated with Regalia and Stylet oil. The turn around was so radical I hit my entire property. Everything looks great. Got symptoms on my clones . One hit from Regalia and it was gone.

Depending on the source of your bugs they can bring fungal or bacterial disease that continues after they are gone. What I thought were eggs was little resin balls, my guess a stress reaction.

 

[GET MO]

finally found one of these elusive ass mothasuckas! ... Its dead, but I found it!

 

[wazzer]

View Image

finally found one of these elusive ass mothasuckas! ... Its dead, but I found it!

I have found that same looking picture a couple times on my plant and a one live won in two years can you see it with out the magnifying lense does it come up as a red dot under the naked eye and what are your deficiencies on your plant.

 

[GET MO]

I have found that same looking picture a couple times on my plant and a one live won in two years can you see it with out the magnifying lense does it come up as a red dot under the naked eye and what are your deficiencies on your plant.

With the naked eye its a tiney speck, seeable but you really gotta focus and zoom yer eyes in. They been making leaves kinda turn sideways, new growth scraggelyer and lighter color than normal. Plants just look kinda sick, new leaves dont grow regular, some rounded, some twisty. Then my next batch into the flower room wouldnt start flowering after i had killt them off. 4 weeks in and only 2 plants were actually flowering. Put everything outside.

 

[wazzer]

With the naked eye its a tiney speck, seeable but you really gotta focus and zoom yer eyes in. They been making leaves kinda turn sideways, new growth scraggelyer and lighter color than normal. Plants just look kinda sick, new leaves dont grow regular, some rounded, some twisty. Then my next batch into the flower room wouldnt start flowering after i had killt them off. 4 weeks in and only 2 plants were actually flowering. Put everything outside.

When you mean light colour like iron deficiency and magnesium and sick meaning not perking up more droopy I’m having the leaves do funny things similar to yours as well how’s your new growth is it more dry instead of lush green.