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Broad mites: ID and Organic Antidotes that work!

dudebpeaceful

New member
Do BM's move and run fast?

In short yes. I had broads two years ago and went checking my weekly veg trim last week I saw an adult male running like hell, down the leaf and unto my finger. This was at 60 power with an old school microscope. That's one of the keys continuing to check for broads or any pest regularly. I spotted this early and should be able to knock this down before it gets to infestation. I have sprayed with PFR-97 three times at 3 day intervals so far and have planned to spray every 5 days until three weeks have been finished.

Father Earth thanks for the heads up on PFR-97. I have gotten up to speed on this emerging bio insecticide market. But I have to say dude you starting the thread with 'I wanted to get broad mites had me wondering if this tread was worth it. NO one wants to spray , it ruins all the fun.
 
ShLyTWI.jpg


Fuck the police
 

blueberrydrumz

Active member
ICMag Donor
Chitosan, fulvic, micro/NPK foliar with chitosan, fulvic, aspirin on top of your properly constructed nute program. Let the plants dry till near wilting between waterings. Don't spray aspirin as it closes stomata and arrests absorption at that time. Don't spray anything that is meant to be absorbed 24hrs around aspirin. Don't use cytokines as they are probably part of the problem. Auxins in the spray will give you single leaf plants.

Maybe consider doing STS. If its virus/phytoplasma, Silver will probably make the disease more unhappy then the plant.

thx for the info.. i wouldnt use STS unless you are after a ton of seeds when you flower... sure it will get rid of desease but at what price?!
 

mtntrogger

Member
Veteran
Mite fighters and gurus, Please help me ID/ eradicate these shits ! After restarting my garden from fresh seeds about 47 days ago, I became suspect that something was once again attacking my plants. So , I just heat treated yesterday (112 for 3 hours was all I could get the tent up to) and found these on the damaged (stippling)leaves a few minutes ago. I dont believe they are broads (no spots), nor russets (no worm like things). Any Ideas what im dealing with or how to later them ? I dont think the Avid or Forbid I have can be used , since my tent exhausts into the bedroom , not outside.
 

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Yeah fuck avid and forbid especially in your case. Im trying to beat them with more organic stuff now but am waiting for supplies. Buildasoils essential oil blend, wettable sulfur thru atomizer, and pfr-97 @ 80%RH for 8 hours 3x. Good luck dude I never imagined pests could be so devastating so fast. I use dr bronners eucalyptus and peppermint when spraying too.
 

mtntrogger

Member
Veteran
thanks for being the only one to post anything tessa. I am still not sure what they are ,my guess is cyclamen, since there is the least amount of info about them. I used to use the bonners also , religiously with every spray , but then I found out that it changes the ph in soil , and had in mine.
 

blueberrydrumz

Active member
ICMag Donor
shit mtntrogger.. sorry to hear.. that sucks!
get predator mites.. you have a headstart now... hard will be when they have built a population and are every..
peace
 

Storm Shadow

Well-known member
Veteran
Mite fighters and gurus, Please help me ID/ eradicate these shits ! After restarting my garden from fresh seeds about 47 days ago, I became suspect that something was once again attacking my plants. So , I just heat treated yesterday (112 for 3 hours was all I could get the tent up to) and found these on the damaged (stippling)leaves a few minutes ago. I dont believe they are broads (no spots), nor russets (no worm like things). Any Ideas what im dealing with or how to later them ? I dont think the Avid or Forbid I have can be used , since my tent exhausts into the bedroom , not outside.

Those are not BM eggs.... those are trichs

This is a BM Egg...if u had all those eggs and no adults? doesnt make sense

picture.php
 
T

Timm

Nothing organic will kill broad mites. I've tried heat treatments and spinosad and they do not work

I resorted to shutting everything down taking clones and dipping them in avid / forbid twice. No way they can survive that

Don't waste your time and go nuclear. I would never spray avid/forbid though
 

Mikell

Dipshit Know-Nothing
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Depends on your intended use, environmental conditions, light cycle, etc.

Seafour has compiled a comprehensive breakdown of beneficials.

Stethorus (sp?) rule veg, persimilis flower, overall to swirskii.

My opinion of course.
 
R

Robrites

Whats the best predatory mite? I want to add it to my ipm.
My experience is that you need to find predatory mites that will blossom in your environment. If they can't out-breed the enemy, they (and you) are going to have a tough time winning.
 

the gnome

Active member
Veteran
Nothing organic will kill broad mites. I've tried heat treatments and spinosad and they do not work

I resorted to shutting everything down taking clones and dipping them in avid / forbid twice. No way they can survive that

Don't waste your time and go nuclear. I would never spray avid/forbid though


for what it's worth the heat treatment will work if done correctly.
my 1st time it didn't work,
2nd time it did.
you have to make sure what ever it is your treating comes to lethal temps/115F for an hour.
and that can take some time, as in 2-3hrs depending on the size of your situation
some are under the impression you can heat the room for an hour @115F and expect it to work.

it's when the plants interior reaches those temps where the bugs are hiding,
then they'll start to die.
the bottom leaves 2ft from the ground won't reach 115F before the tops do for over an hour depending.
make sure the plants are well hydrated and give enuff time and and maintain 115-120F for the right amt of time and you'll kill em.
 
T

Timm

I personally think heat treatments are a waste of time. All it takes is one mite or egg to survive and you are re infested. Believe me I tried a couple of months on organic treatments are not effective and at best will keep broad mite populations low.

Just started treating with avid/forbid the other day. I hope to never see a broad mite again.
 

Green Pastures

New member
Thanks so much for clearer spelling this out. I have just recognized that I am a victim of these BM vermin, and I run a commercial spot, so it potentially can be devastating. Anyways, I am going to run the heat to 120 for an hour and not use crap else, product wise. It sounds like you are the pro with these, so I wanted to extend my thanks immediately, as I am implementing your treatment immediately. I will let you know how it works, no moving air, and 120 for 1 hour.
 
I've had excellent results with wettable sulfur thru an atomizer up to wk 1-2 of flower, buildasoils essential mix atomized, and pfr-97 atomized in rotation. As well as physically removing the leaves they damage thus reducing their populations significantly. Good luck.

I ordered a. swirskii too they're supposed to destroy them.
 

Mikell

Dipshit Know-Nothing
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Thanks so much for clearer spelling this out. I have just recognized that I am a victim of these BM vermin, and I run a commercial spot, so it potentially can be devastating. Anyways, I am going to run the heat to 120 for an hour and not use crap else, product wise. It sounds like you are the pro with these, so I wanted to extend my thanks immediately, as I am implementing your treatment immediately. I will let you know how it works, no moving air, and 120 for 1 hour.

Raise RH as high as possible and ensure pots are well watered, they're going to transpire like mothertruckers.
 

Avinash.miles

Caregiver Extraordinaire
Moderator
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Nothing organic will kill broad mites. I've tried heat treatments and spinosad and they do not work

I resorted to shutting everything down taking clones and dipping them in avid / forbid twice. No way they can survive that

Don't waste your time and go nuclear. I would never spray avid/forbid though


timm, have you tried essential oils for killing broads/russets.?? have you tried wettably sulfur sprays (i used garden fungicide from safer brand) i haven't used oils myself against bms'/hrms (but have been killing all other pests with essenstial oils), but i know people who have and they report that oil mixes can wipe out broads...
just saying, don't go all "nothing organic will work" unless you have tried all the organic options.... not just heat and spinosad available in the organic arsenal. also, i DID use wettable sulfur spray to kill HRM's when i had them, and that IS organic...

edit: also pfr & met are biological/organic right?
 
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Coughie

Member
Just to toss in my two cents here...

I haven't read all 28 pages, but I looked back a few pages at least.

I seen that predatory mites were mentioned.. I've been doing (too much) research about predator mites lately.. It's too much to lay-out here, in one post or even in several, but..

Predatory mites populations levels are controlled by the amount of the food source available. Normally this would be our pest - or broad mites. (They also consume thrips and other pests) As the pests begin to be eradicated, the levels of predators also begins to drop. This ends in a balancing act between predator and prey, resulting in control of the pest, but not it's elimination.

This can be unsustainably overcome by essentially 'bombing' the pest population with a massive overload of predatory mites, and allowing the ones who don't find the pests to starve... But being organic, being sustainable, and being a responsible human, this technique doesn't sit well with me personally.

Predatory mites are omnivorous, if no one here knew.
The way to keep predatory mite numbers high while pest numbers begin to drop, is to supplement their food source. This in itself, is a whole new 'ball of wax' (hint: there's a lot to learn that I dont have time to share, about this)

There are products offered however, such as Arbico's Good Bug Power Meal
http://www.arbico-organics.com/prod...ficial-insect-food/attract-beneficial-insects

There is also research showing a higher rate of effectiveness, when using both multiple species of predatory mites, and a combination of slow-release sachets and quick-release bran shakers.


Plenty more to be said, but I'll have to cut this here for now or I'll be here all day writing a novel lol~
 
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