Broad mites: ID and Organic Antidotes that work!

[50YardLine]

@50yardline The hot air treatment should be repeated, three times three days apart ideally. 115 is killing so have to go to 117 at least, and 122 is too hot, kills plants.
With each foot of height in a heated room there is a degree change, so I'm saying this is only effective on a 3-4 foot plant, 117 at the base and 121 at the top.

No, 122 is not too hot. My greenhouse was up to 145. It has everything to do with soil temps. You can't raise my soil temps, I grow in 500 gal per plant.

Yes I know the heat treatment should be repeated. I know all treatments should be treated in 3 days intervals, due to the birth cycle of eggs.

How are you guys claiming you kill the bugs in the soil? Your not.

Listen, you guys want to check out how I battled the Russets, check out my thread Garden of Eden at *********. I didn't just throw up one treatment, or turn up the heat. I sprayed organics with heat treatments the entire month of July. Before flower I used nukes, and heat treatments. August I sprayed neem and axamax, and the rest of the way was Regalia and OG bio war, all with heat treatments. Every Three Days!!!!!!! Actually, I would spray one day, then heat treat the next. You guys are insane if you think just a couple heat treatments will work.

I am also talking about 10-15' tall plants, filling an entire 1600sq ft greenhouse. I am not talking about one little proud plant in my tent. I had to spray from the bottoms, then get out my 10' ladder and spray all the tops. It took me over 4 hours every application, and I did many applications over the year. I sprayed with an atomizer for full coverage. I thought of everything, and I have never been so happy to see the end of a season. If I didn't do what I did, my very profitable crop would have been gone.

I can say 100% for sure, if I only did my heat treatments, where the ambient temps reached 145, my crop would be compost. If you listen to RetroGrow, your crop will be compost.

 

[50YardLine]

Sorry, but I don't think so.

I struggled more than 1 year against BM...don't even known what was happening to my crops and when I discovered BM, heat treatment worked for me.

PS: just to answer to your misunderstanding about temp in different areas, I suggest you to read something about pasteurization.

I know all about pasteurization, how does it apply to what I was saying about the heat treatment not getting the soil temps up? Or what does it have to do with reading my lazer temp gun that shows the bottom of the leafs will never reach 115?

Tell me more about how the heat treatments worked for you. What medium where you using, and how many treatments? Was that the only treatment you were giving your plants?

Also, your talking BM's, where russets are much harder to rid.

 

[blueberrydrumz]

yo 50..
hold your horses and calm down... no point in calling names etc...
yeah retro you too... we are grown up... lets keeps things respectful!
At the end of the day we are all here to learn.. if not then this is the wrong place..
if you can teach than do so with grace and be humble..
anyway nice to hear you had a successfull crop..
a question just came to mind...
you spent A LOT of time and money on these applications you mentioned.. wouldnt it have been soo much cheaper to use Co2 at a high level for a short time?
im hearing it works well...
also couldnt you have taken the heat so high that you were getting 120F on the leaves?!?
so maybe 160F or something... the roots are safe in a 500gal cntainer
sure you are saying some pests are in the soil.. traveling or what not and if you kill all on the plant.. still leaves them in soil to just come back again.. but you could just repeat the treatment like you had done over and over till you dont spot any anymore?!
that and co2 treatments seem so much easier than spraying a greenhouse full every 3 days.. damn no fun at all

 

[50YardLine]

Nope, no fun at all.

CO2 wouldn't work for me. I have multiple 1600 sq ft greenhouses, that are 17' tall. That would require hundreds of pounds of co2. Also, my greenhouse can close up, but not 100%. It would be very hard for me to keep co2 levels high enough to have any effect. Not saying somebody in a tent wouldn't benefit from that treatment.

160 would be pushing it. At 145 I had a hard time walking around, and the air seemed very stale. I also bring you back to the point that the soil will NEVER get hot enough to kill all the bugs. So you can repeat the heat treatment all you want, but it will never eradicate all the bugs. You will ALWAYS have live mites in your soil. I also grow with cover crops, so those bugs are quite safe from heat treatments.

Time and money, lol. Yea, thousands of dollars and hundreds of hours. All worth it in the end. Some of my product is the best I have grown in years. One of my Ancient Og's put out top quality and yielded over 15 units.


EDIT: Co2, heat threatments, organics and chemical miticides are not the answer 100% on their own. If you read any IPM program, it's all about a scouting. Then applying an array of different treatments to manage the bugs. One type of treatment, no matter how effective, will not eliminate bugs 100% of the time. Even if done in proper intervals. You must alternate miticides, and any other treatments to have full effect.

 

[milkyjoe]

Yo 50...don't forget the aspirin bro

 

[50YardLine]

There are two different immune system pathways:

Aspirin just raises the SAR, or aka, systematic required resistance. This is triggered by acetylsalicylic acid.

The second pathway is ISR or Indused systemic resistance which is triggered by a combination of jasmonic acid and ethylene pathway.

I would go into different levels of plant health, and how if your plant is producing secondary plant metabolites you wont even have bug problems, but that is way over the heads of 99% of people on the boards. I would be completely wasting my time.

 

[redlaser]

No, 122 is not too hot. My greenhouse was up to 145. It has everything to do with soil temps. You can't raise my soil temps, I grow in 500 gal per plant.

At 122 degrees at the tops of plants there were losses in my treatments, believe it or don't. Maybe you can understand why 145 sounds unbelievable to me with no losses.

Getting the soil to a high enough temp to be effective and not kill the rest of the plant isn't possible and has never been a realistic goal that Im aware of.

Hot air and warm water are single tools, inferring they are a complete cure by themselves is shortsighted.

 

[milkyjoe]

Just a joke bro. You know how I feel...mineral nutrition first...then a bump if you absolutely need it

 

[50YardLine]

Just a joke bro. You know how I feel...mineral nutrition first...then a bump if you absolutely need it

I know bro, I was getting frustrated and a little sarcasm came out.

At 122 degrees at the tops of plants there were losses in my treatments, believe it or don't. Maybe you can understand why 145 sounds unbelievable to me with no losses.

Getting the soil to a high enough temp to be effective and not kill the rest of the plant isn't possible and has never been a realistic goal that Im aware of.

Hot air and warm water are single tools, inferring they are a complete cure by themselves is shortsighted.

Ok, sorry for making a statement as an absolute. You're right, different applications call for different treatments. I imagine your talking about heating up a room under lights. You have extra radiant heat coming from those lights. I bet if you took a lazer temp gun and checked the temps of your tops, it would read 160 or above.

As for me, in my greenhouse, the temps are pretty even across the board because of the diffused light the greenhouse plastic provides. The main place where temps vary is on the surface of the leaves due to transpiration.

I do believe you about your tops burning. This is why one fix isn't a fix for everybody. If I may quote you, "Hot air and warm water are single tools, inferring they are a complete cure by themselves is shortsighted." Amen

 

[milkyjoe]

The question would be do the mites respire as well as the leaf...is their cooling system as efficient as a plant.

But heating big quantities of soil...ain't gonna happen and back they come sooner or later

 

[RetroGrow]

You're a tard. Your heat treatments don't do shit. You can't even defend why heat treatments work when I clearly state why it wont. I state the temps can't reach that high, yet you and all your wisdom say, "you can stick your laser toy where the sun don't shine," It's not a toy, its a finely calibrated tool. I would think you would recognize a tool, it takes one to know one.

Well, I fought them this season, and harvested more than you have in your life. Go ahead and think your big stuff, but your just the JV squad. I am done with you, and your juvenile attitude.

Anybody that listens to RetroGrow (does the name not give away he is living with past info) then they will have a long fight with russets. Unless you believe this tool is consulting for different grows, lol.

Heat treatments work 100% Those of us who have actually tried it know this. It is not open to dispute. It has been repeated successfully by many people. There isn't any question that it works. Your "reasoning" is warped. We are not talking about outdoor gardens, we are not talking about russet mites. I am talking about indoor gardens with broad/cyclamen mites. Your theories about how it "won't work" are moot, since it does work. Your trolling on this issue, and your dick waving are besides the point. Then you play the "Mr. Big" card. Funny stuff. I'm sorry your penis is so tiny, but I never said a word about Russet mites, nor did I say anything about "big stuff". Sorry, your bad. I also explained that commercial greenhouses have been using heat treatments for many decades to deal with Tarsonemidae. If you had read up on the subject, you would know this. This is their method, not mine. I simply tried it, and found out it works beautifully. No other method of control even comes close. Since you state the "temps can't reach that high", maybe you should warn all the commercial operations that what they have been doing for decades doesn't really work. I'm sure they will be grateful. But, instead of listening to people who have done it successfully, you find it necessary to troll and talk shit. Odd, 'cause you are knowledgeable on other things, yet obtuse on this subject. Maybe there is someone here who is impressed by your dick waving, but I doubt it, with the possible exception of Milky, your troll buddy. As far as your laser toy ("that costs thousands of dollars"), again, we're all impressed. Not. You can still stick it, toy or tool.
Meanwhile, back at the ranch: it's very simple to get your room temps up to 120F, give or take a couple of degrees. You don't need lasers or any exotic equipment. Just a thermometer or two, and the ability to follow simple instructions with lights on and fans/AC off. It's so simple that a cave man could do it, if he had electricity....
Don't let the trolls discourage you. They are only talking shit.
Once a heat treatment is done, you should repeat it twice more to get any stragglers or new entrants to your room, and you are good to go. In my case, I tried the heat dunk method, and it destroyed the plants. I don't think they like being submerged like that, but in any case, it did not work for me, which is why I tried the hot air, and found it to work like a charm. Others have had issues with hot water dunks/plants being ruined, so I don't recommend it, and it's impossible with large plants anyway, but feel free to experiment if you have something you don't mind losing. I won't be trying it again, as the hot air works stellar, and is easy to set up, and I haven't had a single burned leaf. Our plant is tougher than you might think.

 

[blueberrydrumz]

thx 50 for talking more sensible and leaving the emotions out..
its a big problem nearly all of us have... our egos can get in the way

anyway... show me one person on here that has emaculate plants that are immune to pests that dont need IPM or anything .. i want to learn
and yeah you might be right that for most it might be over their head.. but in the end thats what we are all striving to reach no?

 

[milkyjoe]

Retro...citations for that reading up I need to do please

 

[50YardLine]

thx 50 for talking more sensible and leaving the emotions out..
its a big problem nearly all of us have... our egos can get in the way

anyway... show me one person on here that has emaculate plants that are immune to pests that dont need IPM or anything .. i want to learn
and yeah you might be right that for most it might be over their head.. but in the end thats what we are all striving to reach no?

https://youtu.be/s5XbJEuvKS4

Subscribe to AEA if you want to know more.

 

[milkyjoe]

Zero ipm oudoor this yr. Not even organic...balanced soil, lots of microbal activity and aea

 

[Terpz]

No need to get a good thread shut down. Lets keep it civil everyone.
You can have different viewpoints and still be friends... well.. if you want to, that is.

I appreciate the good info from those who have shared. Lets keep it going!

 

[mtntrogger]

conserve

conserve

wondering if anyone whos battled broads has tried this conserve sc ? Came across a thread on another site that has several folks claiming it crushed the broads.

 

[Intimea]

wondering if anyone whos battled broads has tried this conserve sc ? Came across a thread on another site that has several folks claiming it crushed the broads.

As far as I know, the active ingredient that has proven more effective against BM si abametctina...

I used this one
http://www3.syngenta.com/country/it/it/Prodotti/agrofarmaci/Pagine/vertimec_ec.aspx

with this
http://www3.syngenta.com/country/it/it/Prodotti/agrofarmaci/Pagine/break-thru_s240.aspx

You may take a look to this
http://www.grow-expert.com/bac-bio-plant-vitality-plus-500ml.html

 

[50YardLine]

I have been experimenting with organic controls on the plants that are left standing in my greenhouses. I must say, I have been able to completely reverse any damage on my hash nugs. Most of my hash nugs had gotten a burnt look to them. I left them for another month, and started spraying OG Bio War at 50% over the recommended full strength. Almost all my hash nugs recovered 100%, and now are full, filled out, with no damage. You can still see where the nug was a little burnt on the bottom, but then a nice full nug is developed on top.

On another plant I have been spraying Azamax. I don't plan on using this plants nugs at all now, but I wanted to see how effective Azamax was on a fully infected plant. The azamax didn't do crap. It knocked them back, but the nugs were burnt and the plant is slowly dying because it's succumbing the the mites.

On a third plant, I am using just Regalia. This is very interesting. The plant seems to remain infected, however the Regalia is keeping the plant healthy. I am not seeing a total reversal in nug growth, but I am seeing a plant develop an immune system that is fighting off the bugs. The plant remains healthy.

On a forth plant, Regalia and Og bio war. This is what I used for the last month of the season. Now that the 12'+ tall plants are down to about 6 foot bushes, this seems to knock out the bugs. The plant that has this treatment looks like it never had broad mites. The trick here is the miticides are contact effective. They are not systemic, so you must spray where the bugs are. It also seems much more effective now that the humidity has stayed higher.

So this year while battling these buggers, I found a couple things helpful.

#1 - Organics will never kill every mite.
#2 - Heat treatments will never kill every mite
#3 - Chemical miticides are needed to eradicate an infestation
#4 - Azamax, neem don't work very well at all
#5 - Og Bio war and Reglia helps keep the mites at bay
#6 - an atomizer is a great tool to have, for contact sprays
#7 - Most sprays are more effective at night, due to higher humidity
#8 - Before fighting, make sure all plants are cleaned up, cover crops pulled, and any potential safe hiding spots for the mites are eliminated. If I didn't pull the bottom 6' of my plants, I would have harvested nothing.
#9 - Know your mites reproductive cycle. Attack on egg life cycles.
#10 - Keep a positive attitude. These bugs will push you to your mental limits.

Because you don't do heat treatments outdoors. Now, get back on Milky's dick and stop trolling, fool. With each trolling post, you make a bigger fool of yourself. No wonder you and Milkboy get along so well....

Just stop now. Your dick trolling has gotten out of control. Stop claiming something is a 100% fix, then tell everybody, "not outdoors, in greenhouses, only indoors, with small gardens in soiless containers." Your lost my friend. Just stop. Grow up.

 

[mtntrogger]

I have been experimenting with organic controls on the plants that are left standing in my greenhouses. I must say, I have been able to completely reverse any damage on my hash nugs. Most of my hash nugs had gotten a burnt look to them. I left them for another month, and started spraying OG Bio War at 50% over the recommended full strength. Almost all my hash nugs recovered 100%, and now are full, filled out, with no damage. You can still see where the nug was a little burnt on the bottom, but then a nice full nug is developed on top.

On another plant I have been spraying Azamax. I don't plan on using this plants nugs at all now, but I wanted to see how effective Azamax was on a fully infected plant. The azamax didn't do crap. It knocked them back, but the nugs were burnt and the plant is slowly dying because it's succumbing the the mites.

On a third plant, I am using just Regalia. This is very interesting. The plant seems to remain infected, however the Regalia is keeping the plant healthy. I am not seeing a total reversal in nug growth, but I am seeing a plant develop an immune system that is fighting off the bugs. The plant remains healthy.

On a forth plant, Regalia and Og bio war. This is what I used for the last month of the season. Now that the 12'+ tall plants are down to about 6 foot bushes, this seems to knock out the bugs. The plant that has this treatment looks like it never had broad mites. The trick here is the miticides are contact effective. They are not systemic, so you must spray where the bugs are. It also seems much more effective now that the humidity has stayed higher.

So this year while battling these buggers, I found a couple things helpful.

#1 - Organics will never kill every mite.
#2 - Heat treatments will never kill every mite
#3 - Chemical fertilizers are needed to eradicate an infestation
#4 - Azamax, neem don't work very well at all
#5 - Og Bio war and Reglia helps keep the mites at bay
#6 - an atomizer is a great tool to have, for contact sprays
#7 - Most sprays are more effective at night, due to higher humidity
#8 - Before fighting, make sure all plants are cleaned up, cover crops pulled, and any potential safe hiding spots for the mites are eliminated. If I didn't pull the bottom 6' of my plants, I would have harvested nothing.
#9 - Know your mites reproductive cycle. Attack on egg life cycles.
#10 - Keep a positive attitude. These bugs will push you to your mental limits.



Just stop now. Your dick trolling has gotten out of control. Stop claiming something is a 100% fix, then tell everybody, "not outdoors, in greenhouses, only indoors, with small gardens in soiless containers." Your lost my friend. Just stop. Grow up.[/QUOTE

Hey 50 , on #4 azamax. Soopersmurph reported that it WAS effective, you just have to use triple the recommended dosage ! Found by researchers in Brazil, first done on pepper plants. Also did you try conserve sc ?