Great link man. Hadn't re read that one in a few months. Just finished ... Excellent info. Thanks
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Broad mites: ID and Organic Antidotes that work!
- Thread starter FatherEarth
- Start date
Great link man. Hadn't re read that one in a few months. Just finished ... Excellent info. Thanks
Thanks redlaser. Today , instead of chemicals I will buy a steam wand and a space heater. About to attempt science ! I want to scope in and witness these a holes explode from the heat , fry me some more eggs .mmmm
Was wondering about a product monteray makes called "once a year" . it's that imacloid...stuff. Been thinking about using it on my houseplants ...I'm case the bm's are chilling on them too. Also will that bifrethin shit do anything, its a pyrethiod so I didn't think it would helpy cause.
bilbobonger
Member
Thanks for the response here RetrGrow.
Have you seen any leaf discoloration issues when using aspirin? I've used it a few times in the past. It always gives 'em a nice boost initially, but then after, IDK a week or so maybe, my res water would start to cloud up, and I'd start to get yellowing leaves. I did a couple side by sides, and it was clearly the aspirin that was causing it. FWIW, I wasn't using 'uncoated' aspirin. Everything sold around here has at least what they call 'micro-thin' coating.
Again, thanks for the time here man, I appreciate it.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=7177121&postcount=168
i used a normal Thermo/Hygrometer wrapped in 2 plastic zip locks and submersed in a bucket with some weight, mixed hot tap & boiling water till i hit around 115-120F. I would use a normal electric hot water boiler and re-heat 1.5 liters if the temps dropped to much.. in between switching plants sometimes..
Seeing the meter was in the bags i take it it must have been a few F colder. so i stayed below 120F
Started my stopwatch and completely sumberged them for approx 5min..
like i mentioned from around 50 plants maybe 4-5 didnt make it... i think they were just too weak to beginn with.. its a seedrun
they looked healthier the next day and had new white roots again in around 4 days.
i only tried this on plants and cuttings that were in solo cups or in 1/2 L pots and smaller.. a few weeks old, but no reason it wouldnt work on bigger plants... the contrary.. the better the chance they survive id say as they are more established
Got to be uncoated! Uncoated is available. You just have to look for it. They have it at Walmart/Walgreens/CVS. You can order big jars of it online very cheaply. Never had an issue with it. You can also buy salicylic acid @ CVS in liquid form. They have it at the pharmacy, no prescription needed.
If you are talking about Imidcloprid, it's not going to kill BMs. It will kill RAs. You must get rid of your houseplants! They are infected if you had BMs in the house. I made that mistake years ago. I believe the houseplants were what brought BMs into my space to begin with, as I never use clones.
Ortho home insect barrier . it states on the label that broad mites are controlled with this stuff. Was thinking about using it around the window's, doors ,and walls of the grow area. What does anyone know about this stuff ?
Hot water definitely works on RAs. However, when I tried it on BMs, the plants looked like spinach when they came out. They were done for. Worthless, which is what prompted me to try hot air, and it worked.
To the troll(s) who comes in to drop negative one liners, and then runs and hides, piss off. You've never tried it, or you wouldn't be making such ignorant statements. It works for sure, and has been proven by many growers. The caveat is to make sure no fans are blowing directly on the plants...this can blacken some of the leaves, like wind burn can. Also, make sure your plants are well hydrated before attempting. They should be well watered beforehand. I have done this in coco/hydro, but never in soil, as I don't use soil. However, I'm pretty sure that some of the folks who tried it must be in soil, just by the sheer numbers of folks who have messaged their thanks.
You should have multiple thermometers to monitor the temps in different areas of your space if it is large. If your plants are off the floor, and you want to have some air movement just to keep the hot air circulating, you can place fan(s) on the floor, under the plants, and have them gently blowing across the floor just to keep the warm air moving about, to keep the temperatures consistent throughout the space, but do not have hot air blowing directly on the plants. From the room lights, your temps should be right around 100F, so you need to add heat to get the other 20 degrees. Remember, most space heaters sold today have thermistors on them which limit the temps. You have to open and take the thermistor out of the circuit.
https://www.google.com/search?q=thermistor&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8
If you don't want to mess with the thermistor, you can buy MH lamps @ Home Depot, that are made for lighting outside walkways. They are 400 watts, and enclosed in a case, and they generate heat. Of course, any other spare lights, MH or HPS will generate heat, so add until you get the temps to 120 throughout the room,give or take a couple of degrees. Once it's at that temperature, an hour is all it takes. The first time I tried this, I did not know what to expect, but was at my wit's end, so had nothing to lose. When I opened the door to the room, I saw immediately that the plants had perked right up, and knew they were O.K. Scoping confirmed this, as I was seeing dead mites. Problem solved, and I went into flower after doing it two more times to get any stragglers/new arrivals that might have gotten in. Numerous other folks have done this successfully, including one of the breeders/vendors here. Not to mention that commercial greenhouses have been using heat to kill BMs for many decades. That should tell you something.
Keep in mind that temps get to this level in nature, and plants are not damaged. Think Santa Ana winds, Southern Cal, high desert, etc. Temps can get to 120 at times. Commercial exterminators are using heat now to kill bed bugs and other pests in the home. The equipment is available to purchase, but it's expensive, however it will automatically heat a room to the desired temperature. Would be cool to own one of those.
I have losses at 112 degrees, and thats monitored with an IR and a candy thermometer on the top half inch of water. So it's hard for me to understand how your able to hit 115,118 and 125 degrees that you mention in post 168, even just for five minutes. 110 degrees for thirty minutes is the standard most anywhere, with the exception of Ohio State University which claims a range between 105-110 will work.
A cannabis plant will survive a slightly higher than 111-112 degree water bath but the apical growth won't and it'll just sit there and never grow.
www.oardc.ohio-state.edu/floriculture/images/10-10_Mitespdf
www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMGr280400211.html
bilbobonger
Member
I'll look around and see what I can come up with. Thanks again for the time.
Oh man ! I don't know about this. Not all of the house plants belong to me. My lady has been nursing a couple of orchids for a few years now, I don't think she's let me toss em. My houseplants don't look effected by mites , but haven't scoped em and wouldn't be to surprised. I only have 3 , a jade plant , a cactus, and a dragon tree. I have had all since their birth. I need to treat them , since they are only ornamentals , I could use something systemic and poisonous . this is a bit of an issue, as I really can't toss em.
Doubt orchids would have them...but I would check. Years ago, I made the mistake of buying house plants from Walmart and bringing them home. That's when my issues began. Never again...problem is, any kind of plant/soil material could be a home for them....you might want to try Kontos for a systemic that's effective against BMs.
http://www.ohp.com/Products/kontos.php
http://www.ohp.com/Products/kontos.php
Tbh i did this about 10 days ago and some have new growth, not all..
but a lot are showing new roots..
i would have to read the paper you found.. but you are saying they might make new roots, but above ground they will stop growing?
they generaly look a lot healthier than before i treated them though..
50YardLine
Member
You didn't read my post at all before you answered this question, which leads me to believe your full of shit. Good luck anybody that thinks heat treatments will work. I explained why they wont, and RetroGrow wont respond to what I said, and just tell everybody it works. Good luck.
The air in the room is much different than the temps on the leaves where the mites live. 122 degrees F in the room will not raise the temps on the leaves anywhere near 115. I use a lazer temp gun, that is several thousand dollars and is very accurate. The leaf temps just don't reach those temps, period. Think of why air at 100F and 15% humidity seems much cooler than 100F at 100% humidity. That is because the body will release water, that cools off your body when the RH is low. When the RH is high, that water doesn't dry off and cool you. Think of an evaporator cooler. Plants do the same thing when they transpire water, it keeps them cool, and their leaf surfaces. Which means, the leaf surface is cooler than the hot air around them, period.
I raised the temps in my greenhouse to 145, and the temp on the tops of the leaves was 115, and the bottom of the leaves was 105. My soil temps were much, much lower, where mites also can survive. How do you account for soil temps? You don't. Just another reason heat treatments don't work.
What RetroGrow is saying is false, and has no chance of working.
Intimea
Active member
Sorry, but I don't think so.
I struggled more than 1 year against BM...don't even known what was happening to my crops and when I discovered BM, heat treatment worked for me.
PS: just to answer to your misunderstanding about temp in different areas, I suggest you to read something about pasteurization.
You are correct. It works for sure. This 50yard line guy is just talking shit on a subject about which he knows nothing. Numerous peeps have posted about their success using heat treatments, but he must have missed that. It's not rocket science, and it's not complicated. It's easy peasy, and no need to spend "thousands" on a laser thermometer. A $2 thermometer will do. Get a couple at the pet store and spread them around.
The newest growth is the most tender and the first to die with too high of temps. So when it gets to 112 degrees 80% losses are not uncommon. They may root but without the apical and lateral tips it doesn't regenerate them, at least not in 40-50 days, the longest I've kept them around.
@50yardline The hot air treatment should be repeated, three times three days apart ideally. 115 is killing so have to go to 117 at least, and 122 is too hot, kills plants.
With each foot of height in a heated room there is a degree change, so I'm saying this is only effective on a 3-4 foot plant, 117 at the base and 121 at the top.
The recommendations I find only discuss the air temp of the room, never heard of anyone verifying with infrared on the leaf. These are older tried and tested methods for ornamental horticulture
My IR thermometer is about forty dollars and when used to check leaf temps is within two degrees of the thermometer next to the plant, for what that's worth.
50YardLine
Member
Just answer one of these next questions smart guy, forget the leaf temps, how do you get the soil temps up high enough to kill all the russets/broad mites in your soil? Why is there a product called Met52 EC Bio-Insecticide made for soil application? Why does every professional IPM program include organic sprays, beneficial bugs, and chemical miticides and not use heat treatments?
Here are some great IPM articles from the top universities. Do any of them use heat treatments? If so, is that the only form of prevention? Here is a key statement from OKSTATE
http://pods.dasnr.okstate.edu/docushare/dsweb/Get/Document-2336/F-6710web.pd
http://www.ipmcenters.org/pmsp/pdf/NortheasternUSGreenhousePMSP.pdf
https://www.uvm.edu/~entlab/Greenhouse IPM/Scouting.html
http://ipm.uconn.edu/pa_greenhouse/
"Control Options
The goal of IPM is long-term suppression of pest populations
below the point at which they cause economic damage.
Successful management of pests requires the use of multiple
tactics, starting with healthy plants and a clean greenhouse,
covered in the previous sections. Reliance on a single method,
such as a chemical pesticide, is doomed to failure, if for no
other reason than the development of pesticide resistance.
The remaining information that follows will outline several of
the best pest control options. "
Not a single university, or IPM program that I have seen says heat treatments are an effective form of eradicating russets/broad mites. Every IPM program talks about managing your bugs, not some miracle heat treatment that will eliminate these bugs. Your just not cut out to me a great grower, sorry. You need much more experience, and don't cut down others along the way Retro.
Here are some great IPM articles from the top universities. Do any of them use heat treatments? If so, is that the only form of prevention? Here is a key statement from OKSTATE
http://pods.dasnr.okstate.edu/docushare/dsweb/Get/Document-2336/F-6710web.pd
http://www.ipmcenters.org/pmsp/pdf/NortheasternUSGreenhousePMSP.pdf
https://www.uvm.edu/~entlab/Greenhouse IPM/Scouting.html
http://ipm.uconn.edu/pa_greenhouse/
"Control Options
The goal of IPM is long-term suppression of pest populations
below the point at which they cause economic damage.
Successful management of pests requires the use of multiple
tactics, starting with healthy plants and a clean greenhouse,
covered in the previous sections. Reliance on a single method,
such as a chemical pesticide, is doomed to failure, if for no
other reason than the development of pesticide resistance.
The remaining information that follows will outline several of
the best pest control options. "
Not a single university, or IPM program that I have seen says heat treatments are an effective form of eradicating russets/broad mites. Every IPM program talks about managing your bugs, not some miracle heat treatment that will eliminate these bugs. Your just not cut out to me a great grower, sorry. You need much more experience, and don't cut down others along the way Retro.
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