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Anything outdoors 2020
- Thread starter TychoMonolyth
- Start date
St. Phatty
Active member
so how long after you transplant (small pot to big pot) should you wait before giving them full sun ?
i think the black pot does not work out, the root balls get way too hot and that is part of the problem.
I got away with it in other years but not this year !
that seems really wierd to me.
i'm thinking i should wait a week before i move the plants back to the full sun.
and since it's been a problem i just paint the pots white or put aluminum foil on them.
i've been able to hold off the heat before by using water. root ball soaked with water in a black pot, in the sun for 10 hours. !!! that's asking a lot, but sticking your hand in the hot dirt gives you all the information you need.
why didn't that work this year ? i'm growing the same strains & similar crosses. Seems like the sun is hotter or something.
got to buy some of that white spray paint. or find some in the garage !
i think the black pot does not work out, the root balls get way too hot and that is part of the problem.
I got away with it in other years but not this year !
that seems really wierd to me.
i'm thinking i should wait a week before i move the plants back to the full sun.
and since it's been a problem i just paint the pots white or put aluminum foil on them.
i've been able to hold off the heat before by using water. root ball soaked with water in a black pot, in the sun for 10 hours. !!! that's asking a lot, but sticking your hand in the hot dirt gives you all the information you need.
why didn't that work this year ? i'm growing the same strains & similar crosses. Seems like the sun is hotter or something.
got to buy some of that white spray paint. or find some in the garage !
Yeah... the sun must be hotter this year than it was last year....ha ha
People do the craziest shit with their plants it cracks me up. But I'm not the one to tell people what and what not to do. They'll do what they want. 6 feet high before the 4th of July? Fuck yeah that's what you want. Chopping 4 feet off a plant might cause major issues? Of course. You're destroying your plant you spent the last 3 months growing. There's all sorts of shit you can do if you think your plants are getting too big besides massacring them.
Tying over has been mentioned and it's the best strategy. Well, starting your seeds or clones a month later would have been the best strategy but we'll call this the next best strategy. The other thing you do is stop feeding them N. There's only 6 more weeks of veg. No way they double in size, reach 12-14 feet in that time, unless you feed 'em. You're looking at 8-10 foot plants if you go light. If you tie them down and cut back on N (I wouldn't let them get rootbound though) the tips will slow down and the lower shit will bush out.
A friend in eastern Washington did just that last year. I thought it was crazy, he had his plants pinned to the ground like insect nuts pin bugs in their little boxes. Way overboard compared to how I tie mine back. The buds were great, super frosty and mid sized. He hardly fertilized at all. They were 6 feet more or less this time last year and most of them only got a couple feet taller. Despite all the sun. They did get bushy and grow super tight nugs. The quality was great although after harvest he threw it all in brown paper bags and now it smells like alfalfa.
There's other problems with hacking a plant to pieces. I know because my weather does the hacking for me. It's not certain the plant will grow back normally. The branching might be redirected out the bottom or side. Resulting in uneven, super-leafy bushy growth. Tons of little leaves and branches but small air buds. Or stunting. It's still early and the days are long so the likelihood of a good regeneration is high but it's a possibility.
Mold or rot attacking the wounds is a possibility although it's climate dependent. In sunny dry California plants heal clean. Up here in the rain lands I worry about every broken branch, every slug bite, every discolored leaf. It's not a question of will it's a question of when. So far I haven't had any stem rot, I've been very lucky. I snapped one of my Shishkaberries in half in late May. It's healed splendidly but it's still got a scar I inspect when I water.
One of the best options instead of pruning is de-leafing. Strip the plant of most of it's big leaves and half it's small ones. It's that time of year again. I've started my first major de-leafing. I'm working to increase my yield and size, not decrease. Instead of removing leaves from the top part of the plant I'm working up from the bottom. I've got a few hashplants that are way too bushy. Last year I didn't de-leaf enough and had major mold, plus a lot of small crappy runner sucker branches under the canopy. I hate that shit.
I know a lot of people do a lot more radical leafing then I do. My goal is to increase the amount of light getting into the plant, and allow the individual large branches to grow vigorously. I want buds all along the branch, not one at the tip and mini shit the rest of the way down. I know some of you won't be impressed by how I do it, you'd remove all the big fan leaves and a lot of the smaller ones. I know the theory behind it and don't want to get into a debate, there's certainly pros and cons.
My goal is never to inhibit growth at the top of the plant. This is why I don't like pinching or topping. I know it creates a lot more tops and a lot of people love it. I also know that when you pinch the top you're removing your biggest best buds and making a big dent in your total yield. With the right strain and set up the bushiness can make up for it but I don't like to mess around.
Here's before and after photos of the Flashbang I pruned. Before:
and after:
I know a lot of you are wondering if I did anything at all. I can already see the difference. The top has grown several inches already and the branches are already stretching out. I'm going to do the same thing to my other plants that need it. Clean out all the gnarly undergrowth and a couple of the outer superfluous leaves. The wide leaf bushy Afghans need it, most of the other don't. They all need at least a couple leaves from the bottom removed.
There was a reason when I showed my deficiency issues one of my examples was a male. Since I don't bother to correct them. The Shishkaberry has left it's problems in the dust, it's shooting healthy new lime green growth every which way. When the variagation started it was a day or two before I was going to stick it in the ground. I thought there was enough fertilizer added to the soil that it would correct but it didn't and I had to add more fertilizer. It shows that transplanting comes with a high nutrient cost to your plants and it's a good time for supplemental feeding.
The Royal Kush x 5G Blue is doing great. I started extra this year, gave one to a buddy. His is a Royal Kush dominate bush. Mine's 5 G dominate, wider leaves and longer form though still bushy. Here's a picture.
Not a lot of smell besides normal strong cannabis hashy goodness.
You need to get away from black plastic pots my friend, with this prolonged heat
When watering, found out just recently, all we do is replace water that has evaporated, whilst the rest is concentrating("overwatering effect") at the bottom the plastic pot.Seedlings showing all shorts of "issues"(poor growth, burns etc)
Had exactly the same symptoms as you, transferred 2 seedling in fabric pots, back on track, healthy growth,temps,still a constant 35C/45C
Summers are getting warmer
Caught it early
40degsouth
Well-known member
Very much appreciated Thereverand;
I’ve been following Ganja Rebel since he was dancing on the Icmag boards all those years ago. He’s among my top three breeders.
I know the Royal x 5gs P will turn out well but l still wish l could send her a bottle of fish emulsion to have on her Corn Flakes.
I’m with you on topping, l never do it and prefer to super crop. I find that doing this on the main leader has no effect on vigour or yield and trains the plant into a globe shape while containing vertical growth.
I like to start when the plants are three to four feet high and the timing depends on the plant and your needs. I’ve also got a bit of a theory that it also creates an SAR response while auxins are redirected.
Cheers,
40.
I’ve been following Ganja Rebel since he was dancing on the Icmag boards all those years ago. He’s among my top three breeders.
I know the Royal x 5gs P will turn out well but l still wish l could send her a bottle of fish emulsion to have on her Corn Flakes.
I’m with you on topping, l never do it and prefer to super crop. I find that doing this on the main leader has no effect on vigour or yield and trains the plant into a globe shape while containing vertical growth.
I like to start when the plants are three to four feet high and the timing depends on the plant and your needs. I’ve also got a bit of a theory that it also creates an SAR response while auxins are redirected.
Cheers,
40.
JustSumTomatoes
Indicas make dreams happen
Finally found a source that has quality Happy Frog soil. Those Boreal lights will be out in the bush in a week and will be very happy indeed.
Rodehazrd
Well-known member
Hey guys a little advice on training needed here.
Last year I grew a bangi haze In this spot. I dusted her with a bodhi Oaxacan Zippolite which didn't finish here. These three were chosen and tbe back two already show female pre flowers.
The bangi was a bush. These don't look anything like the mother. I've never grown one of the tall skinny ones and fear the summer storms will wreck them without some kind of support. I doubt my 4 ft cage will suffice.
Last year I grew a bangi haze In this spot. I dusted her with a bodhi Oaxacan Zippolite which didn't finish here. These three were chosen and tbe back two already show female pre flowers.
The bangi was a bush. These don't look anything like the mother. I've never grown one of the tall skinny ones and fear the summer storms will wreck them without some kind of support. I doubt my 4 ft cage will suffice.
Attachments
40degsouth
Well-known member
Hey Rodehazrd,
no offence but it’s difficult to give advice without the context of what you and your plants need. I’ve never grown Bangi or its crosses but l can imagine it would stretch hard.
Super cropping will force lateral growth which, in my opinion, means you have to trim interal larf and support the plant as it stretches. I think that’s what Thereverand was eluding to??
Give the community a bit more information and they might be able to help you.
Cheers,
40
no offence but it’s difficult to give advice without the context of what you and your plants need. I’ve never grown Bangi or its crosses but l can imagine it would stretch hard.
Super cropping will force lateral growth which, in my opinion, means you have to trim interal larf and support the plant as it stretches. I think that’s what Thereverand was eluding to??
Give the community a bit more information and they might be able to help you.
Cheers,
40
Thanks, it does look like that.
Realized later that it was probably hail damage, we had 1/4 hail fall for 20-25 min a day or two before I took that photo. It did damage to every broadleaf plant in my garden. I think this one was small enough that it will bounce back. It was struggling a little after transplant, probably could have fertilized a little after I put it in.
These two C99 were started at the same time and transplanted about 2 weeks ago-one to my tent one to my outdoor bed. Its not really a fair fight but the indoor plant is looking much happier -since it didn't get pounded by hail. I expect the OD plant will catch up if we have some good growing days.
I'm growing the indoor under an HLG 260 at about 15" with the dimmer turned all the way down (so far). I am really impressed with the performance of this light so far, it blows my T5s away.
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The first time I grew Bangi they were stocky 7 footers, very stable. It fooled me into thinking I knew the strain. The second time it got huge, 10 ft or so with a lot of long unstable branches. It turned into a mess with tiny buds and terrible boytritis. Didn't finish until the end of October. If bent and flopped all over uncontrollably which contributed to the destruction.
The buds were airy sativa types but the mold destroyed almost every one of them. Normally you can salvage quite a bit of a plant that gets hit. Since the mold hits and misses and grows in a bottom to top way. Not on the Bangi, it grew on almost every bud and in a corkscrew making it impossible to salvage. It was terrible because it was a beautiful plant and the phenotype was awesome. Very sweet and aromatic, nice effects. I hadn't been impressed the first time, thought it was overrated. If I ever try it again I'll be looking for that pheno I suppose is rare.
You'll have to come up with something better then a 4 ft cage although it might make a stable base to work from. I'm not good at building trellis systems which is why my plants get thrashed. You want something that not only stops the limbs and stem from falling over but doesn't cause more damage when the wind changes direction.
Swirly wind is my downfall, my stable plants buttressed against the prevailing west wind get snapped when the wind swirls back from the northeast. No, that's not all of it. When my plants start to flower and begin to get heavy, they get soaked by torrential rains. No matter how well they're tied up and down against any wind once they're 20 or 30 times as heavy they're going to fall and break.
You add swirling winds over 20 mph and there's not much that can be done. The best thing that can happen is two plants falling against each other. I can just stake them back up. It's horrible, the first September storms always fuck me up. Last year I did all I could, got hit, went out the next morning and they were okay. Breathed a sigh of relief. Then the wind changed direction and next time I checked it was total annihilation.
I plan on building a raspberry type trellis this year with clothesline. Poles at both ends and by each plant with clothesline every 4 feet stretched lengthwise. I'm using mostly clothesline because I know no matter how tight I stretch it, it'll still be loose enough to not break the plants. They can lean against it without falling over but won't be tied off tight.
Here's one of those staked out eastern Washington plants I was alluding to. It's only 4 feet off the ground at it's highest point. The top of the plant is in the right hand corner.
It's a Grape Ape x Bubblegum the smell and frost was fantastic. Here's a close up, not a great picture but you get the idea.
That's how you manage your plants when they get too big.
The buds were airy sativa types but the mold destroyed almost every one of them. Normally you can salvage quite a bit of a plant that gets hit. Since the mold hits and misses and grows in a bottom to top way. Not on the Bangi, it grew on almost every bud and in a corkscrew making it impossible to salvage. It was terrible because it was a beautiful plant and the phenotype was awesome. Very sweet and aromatic, nice effects. I hadn't been impressed the first time, thought it was overrated. If I ever try it again I'll be looking for that pheno I suppose is rare.
You'll have to come up with something better then a 4 ft cage although it might make a stable base to work from. I'm not good at building trellis systems which is why my plants get thrashed. You want something that not only stops the limbs and stem from falling over but doesn't cause more damage when the wind changes direction.
Swirly wind is my downfall, my stable plants buttressed against the prevailing west wind get snapped when the wind swirls back from the northeast. No, that's not all of it. When my plants start to flower and begin to get heavy, they get soaked by torrential rains. No matter how well they're tied up and down against any wind once they're 20 or 30 times as heavy they're going to fall and break.
You add swirling winds over 20 mph and there's not much that can be done. The best thing that can happen is two plants falling against each other. I can just stake them back up. It's horrible, the first September storms always fuck me up. Last year I did all I could, got hit, went out the next morning and they were okay. Breathed a sigh of relief. Then the wind changed direction and next time I checked it was total annihilation.
I plan on building a raspberry type trellis this year with clothesline. Poles at both ends and by each plant with clothesline every 4 feet stretched lengthwise. I'm using mostly clothesline because I know no matter how tight I stretch it, it'll still be loose enough to not break the plants. They can lean against it without falling over but won't be tied off tight.
Here's one of those staked out eastern Washington plants I was alluding to. It's only 4 feet off the ground at it's highest point. The top of the plant is in the right hand corner.
It's a Grape Ape x Bubblegum the smell and frost was fantastic. Here's a close up, not a great picture but you get the idea.
That's how you manage your plants when they get too big.
St. Phatty
Active member
You need to get away from black plastic pots my friend, with this prolonged heat
When watering, found out just recently, all we do is replace water that has evaporated, whilst the rest is concentrating("overwatering effect") at the bottom the plastic pot.Seedlings showing all shorts of "issues"(poor growth, burns etc)
Had exactly the same symptoms as you, transferred 2 seedling in fabric pots, back on track, healthy growth,temps,still a constant 35C/45C
Summers are getting warmer
Caught it early
yeah, was going to buy some 3 mil or whatever thickness, WHITE plastic film, and wrap that around the big 32 gallon pots, that already have most of their dirt in them.
Had to move the plants in the small Black pots so they only get morning sun.
The Good News ... one of the plants that survived is an Apollo 11 seedling. I'll be happy whether it's Male or Female. It's very heat-resistant.
and got a Chem x Apollo 11 cross, seedling. How can I not give him/her a good slot ?
JustSumTomatoes
Indicas make dreams happen
It's been insanely hot out so I decided to drop by the swamp to make sure they were properly hydrated. I thought the spot was totally cut off but a deer slipped through the cattails and ate every last one. Bastard. So I guess I'll get to run the Boreal lights in the swamp after all. Time to put up some fencing. You live, you learn...
TychoMonolyth
Boreal Curing
Ouch
I have a couple small spots that were wiped out. One of them was replanted a couple times hoping the problem was fixed. At some point I had to say "uncle"
I have a couple small spots that were wiped out. One of them was replanted a couple times hoping the problem was fixed. At some point I had to say "uncle"
Rodehazrd
Well-known member
@40 and @rev thanks for the replys, I made the cross hoping for some of the extreme vigor and racy effect of the zippolite in the bangi which is one of my favorite daytime smokes. I held the bushy pheno for years and it rarely gets any mold or rot. I'm high up on a ridge so the damp cold falls into the holler.
As for the plants I have no idea what they want. They're dark green where the bangi was a yellowish plant and not looking very bushy. I didn't expect the long node spaces but I got Vigor.
As for the plants I have no idea what they want. They're dark green where the bangi was a yellowish plant and not looking very bushy. I didn't expect the long node spaces but I got Vigor.
Hey Reverend I think you are amazing...
St. Phatty
Active member
if you can find some fence wire, the cheap steel wire they sell at hardware stores, that can help stop the deer.
just wind it around the cat tails and make it harder for the deer to get to your plants.
TychoMonolyth
Boreal Curing
They say stringing fishing line works. But I haven't tried it.
nice looking plants mac...
whats that stuff you got growing in the bottom of the pots, some kinda clover or vines of some kind ?....and whats the reason or purpose for this, i find it interesting....does it keep bugs down ?
thanks,
-axle
