TychoMonolyth
Boreal Curing
That's only because I have makeup on. lol
My seedlings are popping up and having a bit of an issue. Not quite sure if I'm looking at nutrient lockout or burn. I used pure peat with perlite, but our water is fairly alkaline. Also am giving light doses of Jacks. Going to try and test the pH tonight.
No nodes at all yet. Still have the cotyledon with the first two little serrated leaves poking out. Growth rate is normal but the tips of the leaves are shriveling up and are yellowing.How many nodes, and what's the growth rate like ?
I say if they are growing at a "normal" rate probably not lockout.
FWIW, (and optional reading) I never once gave a thought to PH for years, sometimes used a handful of lime, many times I didn't, and always managed some decent weeds. That is up until this year, and after probably reading too many forum posts about PH, and the best (perfect) PH. All that got me thinking my leaf mold is not quite old enough, and may be acidic...OMG what about my water...So I bought a test kit, the simple manual type and it turns out my leaf mold, old cattle manure, compost mix is way above ideal PH, probably 7.5 to 8. How will the plants ever grow ?
The rain water is 5.5, (from the tap is 7+ but I rarely use that) Acid rain, I'm going back to not worrying about it.
JustSomTomatoes said:I'm going the soiless route and using chemical fertilizers. Way less to carry, more cost effective, and easier to standardize.
No nodes at all yet...........
Way less to carry,
These are Northern lights seedlings by the way... Very forgiving.
Love your little 2 pot greenhouse. lolFinally the increasing photoperiod was too much, and started throwing nanas here and there, she was I'd say 80% ripe, so chop time.
Scent to ripe mango, foxtails, or better say sprigs, the thickness of a pinky finger, lenght like index finger, all spiralled in forming colas thicker than my fist.
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Learnt a lot from the experience, specially got a good hang on coco dosages outdoors with big, fast plants, totally different ballgame vs indoors.
Toying with the idea of using lebanese to breed other semiautos w/o any NL blood.
I have always sucked badly growing autos, ending always with dwarfs, or much smaller plants than the ones I see being grown here.
Let's see how I pull these two (Zamaldelica Auto) first time I sow in huge pots (for coco, 20L) outdoors.
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Love your little 2 pot greenhouse. lol
And... are your plants on a tenis court? Why the high fence?
I've always hated seeds as I'm so shit at getting them established.. Seriously considering secret cab to house bonsai mums, not sure where it would go.
I will be using Sunshine Advanced #4. It's a peat, coco, and perlite mix that contains no nutrients. I will be using Osmocote as a time-release fertilizer occasionally supplementing it with Jack's if need be. The water crystals idea is a good one, I plan to be doing a swamp run so it may not be necessary. You're right though, peat is hydrophobic.JustSomTomatoes, do you mean coco + salts? or a peat + ammendments mix?
That's exactly my reasoning for going coco this year in outdoors.
I want to learn the organic way, but honestly, for me, is way simpler, several orders of magnitude cheaper, much less stuff to be stocked on, and gives me much more room for error going coco+salts than soil. I'm stocked on salts for years to come, only need to source (or reuse) coco.
Only thing I'm thinking is if it will be a PITA to fertigate all outdoors plants, but in a guerrilla scenario it would be even worse, do you plan to set some sort of autofeeding? peat doesn't retain humidity much... water crystals?
Yeah totally lol. Definitely should of held off on the feeding. Normally I would never do that, but again I normally don't grow in just peat/perlite. Been giving them a gentle flush with tap water that is slightly alkaline. Hopefully that will help correct the pH issue until I can get them planted in the Sunshine mix which is pH buffered.I'm sure you already know it, that with not one true set of leaves you "probably" were a little quick with the ferts.
It will be interesting to see just how acidic your peat is. "Canadian sphagnum peat moss has a pH of around 4.5". Definitely outside of ideal.
As far as less to carry, unless your native soil is toxic waste, or pure clay, or something in a gorilla situation I would use it, and only add a gallon or two of amendments per plant.
And last, hard to go too far wrong with northern lights.