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alternatives to avid

VenturaHwy

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Avid, Floramite and Forbid. Depending on the guy you got the clones from. Some people are spider mite breeders, they breed them for years and never get rid of them. So if they are using Forbid to control them, then you would have to use something else.

I like Avid myself, the plants like it too. Also a quarantine area away from your garden is a must. So if you put a clone in quarantine for say 8 weeks you should be certain there are no spider mites. And I have seen some people take a clone and throw out the bigger plant and soil to avoid RA.

Avid at 3 day intervals 3 times and then one of the others if you see mites on a clone.

Good luck. ERADICATE THEM, DON'T CONTROL THEM! Which I can see is what you are doing. Last time mites got into my garden was 1980. Seems like a lot of people giving out clones with mites are causing this problem. You can always tell a spider mite breeder, they talk about "controlling mites", instead of exterminating them.
 

expealadocious

Active member
There are also a lot of different spider mites.
The ones from the wild will leave if you just ask nicely...if you get the mites originating from Oregon from abother grower... you are really fucked haha..culling victims and not letting your plants touch eachother is abig help. Also less light and no food when under attack...
I still thought root aphids were the worst. I had 2 species at once haha....hellz
 

Coba

Well-known member
Veteran
All's fair if they're too dense to read the thread title or first post.
Off topic ruins the mass majority of threads on any forum. There are more than enough threads on the topic of how evil everything but neem oil is.
I may be late to the party but, from where I'm sitting the thread title says: "alternatives to avid" and it is posted in the Infirmary in the Growers forum.
an invitation to all growers looking for an alternative to avid, It is not.

as the first post states : " I was wondering why products like shuttle, judo, akari, and sanmite are seldom mentioned?"
probably because people (as previously suggested) use plant health, neem, spinosad and non nerve gas derived chemical "alternatives to avid" to control spider mites and pests.

The first post also says: "I dont feel like breeding super mites by just kicking a dead horse with pyrethrins"
so, accordingly no one has mentioned pyrethrins EXCEPT the OP who uses it anyways and has mentioned it a dozen times...

subsequently, the chemical nerve gas only thread topic, based on thread title and first post argument is invalid.

people have been flamed out of this thread by claiming their poor reading comprehension skills, I could use a little help here...
" I know none of these Chems are too savory, but I believe in effective use so as to minimalize the amount needed."
I have no idea what this is supposed to mean... does it mean to believe in following directions?

If the OP is advocating using ornamental pesticides on flowering medicinal produce without an acknowledgement of what Herb or other members are trying to ask, then this thread deserves the perceived derailment.
What metabolites of these insecticides are present?

Can the metabolites of these insecticides become mobile?

How about more persistent than the parent compound?
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
[/FONT]
[/FONT]
[/FONT]Here is one example why these are important nerve gas relevant questions,
Methamidophos
It is classified as a WHO Toxicity Class "Class 1b, Highly Hazardous", and its parent chemical, acephate, is "class III, Slightly Hazardous".
Wait a minute... a slightly hazardous non-mobile nerve gas turns into a highly hazardous mobile nerve gas.

Understand something,
... half-lives of a substance can be complex, due to factors including accumulation in tissues, active metabolites, and receptor interactions...
So, recommending a nerve gas derived chemical for an indoor application that isn't on it's label, some of those chemicals are labeled for outdoor use only, because it has a 7 day half-life is not only dangerously ignorant at best but borderline criminal.
 
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iTarzan

Well-known member
Veteran
Coba he means Use the amount you are supposed to for the correct number of times. Don't try to cut back on dosage in an effort to be less chemical. Use the right amount and get rid of the problem instead of always messing around using smaller amounts. You use less in the long run and you got rid of the problem. Plus you didn't create any super bugs.

Chemical weapons are tools. Tools have to be used properly to work efficiently.
 

StankyBeamer

Professional A$$hole
Yeah I shouldn't have fought back and forth with that guy, but really, what are you doing coba? You think your making a difference coming in here being offensive to me? Just leave it alone, and don't smoke my pot. Btw, didn't use acephate on anything, so I don't know why everyone keeps using that as their go to. I just want this thread closed at this point, it's become a pain in the ass parade of people just popping in to talk shit.
 

StankyBeamer

Professional A$$hole
Avid, Floramite and Forbid. Depending on the guy you got the clones from. Some people are spider mite breeders, they breed them for years and never get rid of them. So if they are using Forbid to control them, then you would have to use something else.

I like Avid myself, the plants like it too. Also a quarantine area away from your garden is a must. So if you put a clone in quarantine for say 8 weeks you should be certain there are no spider mites. And I have seen some people take a clone and throw out the bigger plant and soil to avoid RA.

Avid at 3 day intervals 3 times and then one of the others if you see mites on a clone.

Good luck. ERADICATE THEM, DON'T CONTROL THEM! Which I can see is what you are doing. Last time mites got into my garden was 1980. Seems like a lot of people giving out clones with mites are causing this problem. You can always tell a spider mite breeder, they talk about "controlling mites", instead of exterminating them.

^^^this is what we need more of. Constructive additions to the thread that are not meant to humiliate or infantilize anyone. I'm with ya 100% bro, get rid of them for good, I hate the idea of "control"
 

mtntrogger

Member
Veteran
"Depending on who you got the clones from". Another one who thinks mites are only introduced via clones.. I only grow from seed, dont visit others grows, change clothes before and after every time in my garden (a 4x4 tent!) Sterilize ALL tools (sprayers, scissors etc)with 91 iso before and after after every use. Never enter the garden after being around houseplants or any outdoor garden, Sterilize all on rooms with bleach and iso every week...just as preventative and I got em ! The bad ones, you may not have heard of hemp russet mites or broad mites. They can be transported on the legs of tiny flying insects like gnats or whiteflys. They are 100 percent NOT visible with human eyes, nor can they be seen under magnifying glass/lopes, A MICROSCOPE IS necessary to notice them. they leave no webs. But do destroy the shit out of plants super fast, often by the time you suspect something is wrong , its too late. They are small they dont even move on their own too much , instead change location on wind/air currents, also another way they can find their way into our gardens. No clones from outside source needed. A strong fart could send some into your area ....then your fucked ! the eggs are easily dispersed into the air, stick to whatever, then can stay dormant for over 6 months ! Pure evil
 

StankyBeamer

Professional A$$hole
Kontos is rated for broad mites and hemp russets if I'm not mistaken. Those little fuckers are a nightmare. I wish you well in your battle brother, kill em dead
 

mtntrogger

Member
Veteran
thanks B. At the moment Im not growing. Shut down a couple of months ago after I harvested a infested batch. Tossed my tents ,all plants (except for a couple of houseplants) and some gear. Then pulled up all the carpet in our entire place and replaced with wood floor. I Vowed to not restart until I had a proper lineup of shit to knockback any further intruders. Spent stupid amounts of time researching products and peoples results with them. Finally ready to get some sprouts going. Looking at mostly Relentless testers and some Mota gear this run along with a Bruce Banner cross I made. Cant wait to get back up on that pogo stick !
 

StankyBeamer

Professional A$$hole
Have an exterminator heat treat your house for bed bugs. They'll put thermostats and heaters everywhere and get the whole house up to 125*F for like three or four hours, kills everything. I do it with my bare bulb 1000ws in my vert room between runs, just shut off the a/c and ventilation and leave it for a day or so, with the thermometer on the floor cuz that's your coolest point. Broads are a bitch but you'll be good with the shut down and clean up mentality

You will not be disappointed with your motarebel gear. Every female was a keeper in my twisted fruit pack, it took like three runs to decide which to keep
 

mtntrogger

Member
Veteran
Yeah Im hyped to get going. Especially that Mota gear, bought the beans at the high times cup in Denver last april, been itching to run em since. Gonna do the Lung Candy along with some sweet freebie packs of Berry Sanders and "cbd series" Harlequin x LBL. I like the looks of Laurens work, so stoked to support these guys. Do you think I should do the exterminator thing before I get thing going ? Perhaps this will help ensure that my houseplants are clean ? Im wondering what they charge for that shit up here.
 

StankyBeamer

Professional A$$hole
If you can get space heaters that don't have a thermostat, you can do it yourself with a few of them for cheaper. Deffinitely worthwhile, no more dormant broads hiding in the cracks waiting for a food source. I only treated my plants with two sprays and a drench, and I did a mild room cleaning with a heat treatment and I'm in the clear. I'm a big fan of the heat treatments now, it's just too easy and thorough
 

VenturaHwy

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
"Depending on who you got the clones from". Another one who thinks mites are only introduced via clones.. I only grow from seed, dont visit others grows, change clothes before and after every time in my garden (a 4x4 tent!) Sterilize ALL tools (sprayers, scissors etc)with 91 iso before and after after every use. Never enter the garden after being around houseplants or any outdoor garden, Sterilize all on rooms with bleach and iso every week...just as preventative and I got em ! The bad ones, you may not have heard of hemp russet mites or broad mites. They can be transported on the legs of tiny flying insects like gnats or whiteflys. They are 100 percent NOT visible with human eyes, nor can they be seen under magnifying glass/lopes, A MICROSCOPE IS necessary to notice them. they leave no webs. But do destroy the shit out of plants super fast, often by the time you suspect something is wrong , its too late. They are small they dont even move on their own too much , instead change location on wind/air currents, also another way they can find their way into our gardens. No clones from outside source needed. A strong fart could send some into your area ....then your fucked ! the eggs are easily dispersed into the air, stick to whatever, then can stay dormant for over 6 months ! Pure evil

Like I said, I haven't had a spider mite in 35 years, so I am talking my experience. Now in Colorado and Cali maybe there are more mites or maybe I have just been lucky, not sure.

And if broad mites are that hard to see I may not get any more clones, not worth the risk. Never seen a russet mite, hope I never do.
I think I am back to seeds from now on, good advice. I just got rid of powdery mildew from hell and my plants are vibrant and healthy again.

A friend has the GG#4 but is it worth the risk? Probably a fake anyways lol.
 

Mikell

Dipshit Know-Nothing
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Eh wait for flower pics if you're worried. Seems worth the danger ;)

Maybe find a site away from yours to receive and sanitize babies. I've no qualms about using anything (almost anything) on the little farts myself.
 

TPFTFW

Active member
Veteran
what was your usage rate on tetrsan and kontos

ive been using kontos at 3ml a gallon foliar after watering in 2ml a gallon
issue is not unlike yourself the bugs are only a floor away from the grow
 

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