for reals?
Advancing Eco Agriculture, Product Science
- Thread starter FatherEarth
- Start date
for reals?
No bullshit. If it has an EC of 5 like milky said then I can see it possibly holding a charge or at least conducting one. Idk how else to explain it. Brand new gallon, I was wearing rubber soled flip flops on the concrete floor, and when I touched the opening on the bottle I was shocked 2x. The first was a strong jolt too. I get shocked all the time at work and it's not nearly as strong as the jolt I got from sea crop. I only posted about it because I thought it was super odd.
On another note I'm drinking 1mL a day of sea crop and I feel pretty good.
C
c-ray
if you're consuming it you should consider their food grade product
http://liquid-chi.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=1
http://liquid-chi.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=1
Can you tell me more about this lineup? B/c all I read was a bunch of hippy dippy bullshit... lol. How is liquid-chi different from sea crop? Other than the price of $45 for 8oz, which is supposed to last 1 month. Yikes. I used to buy all sorts of different nutritional supplements. Now I just want the ones that work.
Looks like I should be drinking closer to 3mL....
Can Sea-Crop be used for animals?
Yes,*SEA-CROP*has been approved as meeting the FDA requirements for use as a mineral supplement in animal nutrition. The recommended rate is .04 milliliters per kilogram of body weight per day added to the drinking water
No FDA approval on the "food grade" lineup.
C
c-ray
sea-crop and liquid chi products are made by the same folks, the north american sea crop that is.. if you want an answer to your question you should talk to Arthur
C
c-ray
I cultured some sea crop on agar a few years back and there was significant activity.. I was talking with Arthur about it and we were speculating about chitin
http://www.researchgate.net/publica...toplankton_Chitin_in_TCA_protein_precipitates
http://www.researchgate.net/publica...toplankton_Chitin_in_TCA_protein_precipitates
C
c-ray
good question
MJtheIndicator
Member
What is the advantage of Precipitated silica over quartz (silica sand) or a Silicon dioxide powder? In reading the red lake SDS under hazardous the column is -
Naturally Occurring Diatomaceous Earth
(Typical Analysis = 67% Silicon Dioxide)
this makes me think they are using chemical compound that is an oxide of silicon, chemical formula SiO2.
The column below shows the 1% quartz, I'm not sure the SDS clearly states it is Amorphous silica, but early in the sheet it mentions the term in "other names" which comes across ambiguously.
I realize usage of the term Diatomaceous earth denotes Diatomite which forms by the accumulation of the amorphous silica (opal, SiO2·nH2O), but when the selling point becomes a hook things get suspect. Although most retailers dealing in food grade Diatomaceous earth use the 67 - 85% amorphous silica tag as a selling tool I still wonder how many are using siliceous sedimentary rock or the compound.
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The diatoms are composed of amorphous (non crystalline) SiO2...naturally occuring.
For certain purposes, like floor sweep, the diatoms are calcined...heated to the point where the chemically attached water burns off. This temperature creates a phase shift to crystalline SiO2...which you want if you don't want the silica to be reactive...you don't want floor sweep breaking down into a pile of mush.
However, when you eat diatoms or use them in soil you want them to be reactive. You want the microbes to be able to separate the Si from the O. That allows the Si to be taken up by the plant or animal. An animal could eat SiO2 in crystalline form but it would pass through without being broken down.
Diatoms are not 100% SiO2...that entropy thing. That is the 1% mentioned.
The 67% is mfgs choice. They also add 33% clay in with the diatoms. That is for the animals...go to mark's daily apple and search dirt eating for an explanation if you are curious.
Hope that was helpful
For certain purposes, like floor sweep, the diatoms are calcined...heated to the point where the chemically attached water burns off. This temperature creates a phase shift to crystalline SiO2...which you want if you don't want the silica to be reactive...you don't want floor sweep breaking down into a pile of mush.
However, when you eat diatoms or use them in soil you want them to be reactive. You want the microbes to be able to separate the Si from the O. That allows the Si to be taken up by the plant or animal. An animal could eat SiO2 in crystalline form but it would pass through without being broken down.
Diatoms are not 100% SiO2...that entropy thing. That is the 1% mentioned.
The 67% is mfgs choice. They also add 33% clay in with the diatoms. That is for the animals...go to mark's daily apple and search dirt eating for an explanation if you are curious.
Hope that was helpful
Sand would also be mostly sio2...but formed with heat in natural processes. That heat was enough to crystallize it.
The silica you want to avoid breathing is the crystal form called beta crystoballite. Those crystals are needle shaped...similar to an asbestos crystal. The shape is the problem. This crystal is formed at ver high temp and is even less reactive than sand...your lungs have no chance of breaking it down.
Edit...precipitated does not rely on heat...just a whole lot of time. That is what allows the diatoms to be amorphous
The silica you want to avoid breathing is the crystal form called beta crystoballite. Those crystals are needle shaped...similar to an asbestos crystal. The shape is the problem. This crystal is formed at ver high temp and is even less reactive than sand...your lungs have no chance of breaking it down.
Edit...precipitated does not rely on heat...just a whole lot of time. That is what allows the diatoms to be amorphous
It is kinda the same theory behind sea shield. Enzymes are used in a cold process to begin the breakdown of the crustacean shells. This allows the product to be much more reactive making it quickly available to the plant
Also the theory behind micronizing non soluble materials. It does not make them soluble per se but it does make them more reactive...easier for the microbes to break down
Also the theory behind micronizing non soluble materials. It does not make them soluble per se but it does make them more reactive...easier for the microbes to break down
MJtheIndicator
Member
I agree that amorphous silica in verified diatomaceous earth is safest. I mentioned precipitated silica because of its solubility micronized. Most oven dried DE is upwards 90% silica and I suppose my apprehension regarding it is the consistency mirroring pumice. It really does break down easily, compaction is my concern whereas quartz or grit, granite etc. seems a reasonable solution. True, silica is more soluble than quartz, but I've been debating between DE and quartz in containers as a component for the lowest sediment layer. The trade-off of 3-4 times more solubility vs. compaction is what I am trying to figure out. I suppose there is also a $16 price for 2.5 lb micronized food grade DE to consider as well.
I bought some of this, https://www.kelp4less.com/shop/trichoderma-inoculant-powder/
Ive always used inoculants with trichoderma, despite the argument that it feeds on the glomus varieties.
Mycogrow soluble from fungi.com is my main inoculant. I like tainio but Im partial to paul stamets when it comes to fungi.
Ive always used inoculants with trichoderma, despite the argument that it feeds on the glomus varieties.
Mycogrow soluble from fungi.com is my main inoculant. I like tainio but Im partial to paul stamets when it comes to fungi.
MJtheIndicator
Member
I like to separate them in their appropriate environment first before introducing them to one another. Rincon Vitova Insectaries offers beneficial inoculents in segregate form. Not intended to distract from the fabulous Fungi Perfecti or wondrous Kelp4less because I appreciate them both.
lol they are nice products, but I dont work for them...
Thanks for sharing your source, looks like a good one. Much appreciated.
http://rinconvitova.com/
http://rinconvitova.com/CATALOG 2009 screen.pdf
FE
I was talking with build a soil yesterday. Jeremy mentioned over time with the coot mix he is seeing low nh4 levels in the soil but no3 "off the charts". He speculates neem meal may be the culprit.
But I got to thinking...ok I got high...what if we use so much perlite we get so much O2 in the soil we start oxidizing things? Does it have a similar effect to tillage? Are we also burning carbon off?
Anyone else experienced this...or better yet measured it?
But I got to thinking...ok I got high...what if we use so much perlite we get so much O2 in the soil we start oxidizing things? Does it have a similar effect to tillage? Are we also burning carbon off?
Anyone else experienced this...or better yet measured it?
Neem meal isn't the ultimate amendment some hippies want you to think it is. In small quantities it's great but you can't depend on all neem
