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Advancing Eco Agriculture, Product Science

plantingplants

Active member
Yes not that particular pot but that soil is around 0.21 ec (that's 2:1 method.. So 0.5 with probe) and 6.9 pH. I'll check that one. Just watered in Pacific Gro, gyp, and micros and have been using low pH water. What are you thinking?
 

plantingplants

Active member
That plant has russets but I've seen a lot of russet mite infestations from light to fucked, and never seen it present like that. Not to say it won't. I also have other blue dreams equally infected with russets that don't have that symptom. I've treated them so we'll see if it abates.
 

EasyGoing

Member
I have seen damage that looks a lot like that from russets.

The Blue Dreams had the russets? Think that is where you got them? I better go do another round of scoping.
 

plantingplants

Active member
! Really?Ok well that seems like problem solved but I'll keep my eye out.

No there have been Russets here before. They just seem to be getting hit the hardest. I should check sap.
 

reppin2c

Well-known member
Veteran
There is an underlying problem for pest pressure. I'd put my money on plant health.
 
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jidoka

Active member
IMG_0820.jpg

SFV x Triangle from Cannarado I think. I am liking this plant
 

EastBayGrower

Member
Veteran
Would it be a waste to irrigate with amino calcium? Or just save it for foliar?

I picked up 5pds after doing some testing with my new soil ec meter, reads are averaging .2, and I too find a higher ec after watering.. brix is like 6-7 and pretty fuzzy. So i definitely need to get feeding...

Main question: what's a good way to raise soil ec? I've read people not having much luck fertigating and only Topdresses raised soil ec.

I'd like to get it atleast above .5

I'm also seeing what I would think is an N deficiency but I'm guessing it's just an all around deficiency... from my soil test I have x2 as much K as I want (9%) and have already put about 10+ pds of gypsum per yard and flush to runoff each watering

So I'm planning on atleast foliaring the amino Ca a few times a week so the buds have some calcium, and will fertigate with an ounce per gallon of 8-5-1 fish hydrosylate and 5ml seacrop along with the normal goodies (fulvic 1gram, yucca, molasses, ect..)

Do you guys try to cut out N in flowering? And if so when? I've read that the amino N can be feed throughout flowering without an adverse taste/ eagle claw but wanted to hear what the "masters" have to say
 
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reppin2c

Well-known member
Veteran
Master of puppets

I just consulted a guy that had EC .12 and N def. Top dressed about 2lbs each of mostly Ca, P, touch of N and K via guano and kelp. Poured on pacific gro and earth juice grow. He's(his wife) kinda cheap so I just used stuff I had laying around. He said it's going the other way today.

Edit I add N if they need it via foliar in flower but I like to see a shortage

Edit again that's a lot of questions I used amino Ca in fertigation to balance out some higher K
 

jidoka

Active member
Eastbay....You are safe to use that fish. I would not go anywhere near 5 ml per gallon fertigating sea crop though...that is a lot of Na. An occasional 11 ml per gallon spray for ultra trace is fine but don't build Na in your soill.

I would say go 2 ounces on the fish...not to runoff...and see what happens over the next week to both your ec and plants.

Based on what you see decide where to go from there.

Make sure you are not using any N in the nitrate form at this point.

I am making the assumption your soil is reasonably balanced. If it isn't then you need to add to that feed what you are short of also. But the amino will jack up microbe activity making all minerals more available.

The trick to building a soil that holds its EC is the c::n ratio along with balance. The ability to maintain a strong microbe population.
 

EastBayGrower

Member
Veteran
So what about using a sat paste test in conjunction with a typical soil analysis to know what to increase EC with?

sat paste test is a good idea, its claim is to show you exactly what is available to the plant at the point but the only drawback is that it doesn't acount for the acidic root exudates that can make more minerals available than the test accounts for


I just tried topdressing 2pds of seabird guano (20% ca, 10% phos, im low on phos) and 2pds of a "biollive" kind of mix (equal parts alfalfa, neem meal, fish bone meal, gyspum, SRP, fungal compost) just what i had laying around... i retest soil ec tomorrow and see if its improved...

then im doing the fertigation mentioned above... and will retest


was able to raise the soil ec from ~.1 to .4-.6 with the fertigation mentioned last page, we'll see how long it lasts... think ill be going through alot of fish hydrosyltate and amino ca this season....
 
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jidoka

Active member
compared to Logan sat paste?

Living soil breaks carbonates also right? Otherwise hi cal lime would not work. Soft rock, etc.
 

redlaser

Active member
Veteran
sat paste test is a good idea, its claim is to show you exactly what is available to the plant at the point but the only drawback is that it doesn't acount for the acidic root exudates that can make more minerals available than the test accounts for


I just tried topdressing 2pds of seabird guano (20% ca, 10% phos, im low on phos) and 2pds of a "biollive" kind of mix (equal parts alfalfa, neem meal, fish bone meal, gyspum, SRP, fungal compost) just what i had laying around... i retest soil ec tomorrow and see if its improved...

then im doing the fertigation mentioned above... and will retest

I've cut back on neem, will probably phase it out and substitute karanja. Went half neem half karanja last soil batch. Neem is real popular but I've read about it being an anti fungal, anti bacterial and a nematicide. Seems counter productive if trying to encourage microlife.
Lots of studies on internet. Lots of happy neem users too, so go figure.
 

Alg0rithm

New member
I've cut back on neem, will probably phase it out and substitute karanja. Went half neem half karanja last soil batch. Neem is real popular but I've read about it being an anti fungal, anti bacterial and a nematicide. Seems counter productive if trying to encourage microlife.
Lots of studies on internet. Lots of happy neem users too, so go figure.

The only difference in neem and karanja is that the neem tree produces 'a nimbin' while the Karanja tree produces 'd nimbin.'

Neem and Karanja have the same properties and function to perform the same task. If you're going to cut neem it would be counter-productive to keep the Karanja being it does the same thing as neem.

I sent in a couple samples of the coot mix. One with neem, one without. Neem lowered the Ca, raised the K and shot the NO3 way up. Raised the micros a tad, but would still have to supplement.

I think people are so happy with neem because they get high N shooting their ec, (generally) paired with high K from compost and amendments they get fast growth.
 

slownickel

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
compared to Logan sat paste?

Living soil breaks carbonates also right? Otherwise hi cal lime would not work. Soft rock, etc.

Saturated paste won't get your math straight IMO.

Yes, a living soil will eventually break down carbonates provided that the soil is not having a constant abundance of bicarbonates and carbonates to it. This process takes years by the way and many strains of micro biology need specific food sources to prosper.

In an annual crop like this one with alkaline water, we know that you can't get enough Ca uptake the first year by using carbonates much less the damage done to metal uptake due to the high pH.
 
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