Water quality can make many many problems with foliars.
Avenger, chip in please. I have to catch a plane.
Avenger, chip in please. I have to catch a plane.
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Advancing Eco Agriculture, Product Science
- Thread starter FatherEarth
- Start date
no, i do not have expereince with 4% foliars of mkp. Seems kinda excessive to me, but I dont think the plants will have a bad reaction, just doubt there is really much improved response over a 1-2% foliar of mkp. We are not growing and ripening fruit.
mkp is a pretty good pH buffer, so the higher the concentration the better the buffer system, especially when the water is alkaline.
mkp is a pretty good pH buffer, so the higher the concentration the better the buffer system, especially when the water is alkaline.
Thats going to be a giant snow cone by Oct 5
HillMizer
Member
Tomorrow's foliar day here, I've got plenty of P in the soil but I'd like to foliar some.
The closest food grade Phosphoric acid I could find is a Jug of GH PH Down. It's 16% Phosphoric acid. I got as far as figuring out that Phosphoric acid is 59.4% Phosphorus .594*.16= .09504
so 9.5% Phos or 0-22-0.
What kind of application rate can I pull off?
I had a war with meters and kicked them off my farms for a while (maybe a new full box of em on payday) I've got some litmus paper and some PH UP and some Potassium Silicate and some baking soda.
I already have high K so maybe I should sit back and just let them grow? Come up with new plan next time? Stop hijacking this crazy thread? I sent more soil samples and I could even check the brix... Thanks
J
Johnny Redthumb
Tomorrow's foliar day here, I've got plenty of P in the soil but I'd like to foliar some.
The closest food grade Phosphoric acid I could find is a Jug of GH PH Down. It's 16% Phosphoric acid. I got as far as figuring out that Phosphoric acid is 59.4% Phosphorus .594*.16= .09504
so 9.5% Phos or 0-22-0.
What kind of application rate can I pull off?
I had a war with meters and kicked them off my farms for a while (maybe a new full box of em on payday) I've got some litmus paper and some PH UP and some Potassium Silicate and some baking soda.
I already have high K so maybe I should sit back and just let them grow? Come up with new plan next time? Stop hijacking this crazy thread? I sent more soil samples and I could even check the brix... Thanks
I'd leave the P alone and slowly give em some K, maybe check your micros, nobody's are perfect....
J
Johnny Redthumb
5-10mL per gallon for just a light dose of cytokinins, not much K.
yeah i havent tried going over 10ml either on foliar/drench..
i know when i did 5+ml of each sea stim/shield, micropak, photomag, rejuv, phos, cal per gallon drench i did get some leaf curling and tip burn, with fresh coots mix in my small indoor grow, im sure the outdoor ladies could hang though/
i know when i did 5+ml of each sea stim/shield, micropak, photomag, rejuv, phos, cal per gallon drench i did get some leaf curling and tip burn, with fresh coots mix in my small indoor grow, im sure the outdoor ladies could hang though/
Not sure about the rest of this woojoo juice cocktail, but the calcium and phosphorus shouldn't be mixed unless they come that way. Much less mixed with nearly anything else. You all are begging for problems.
There is little chance of fixing calcium balance in a mix with liquid calcium. The AEA guys and most anyone else selling
juice would love you to try though!neverforget4/20
Member
Seems like most of the calcium foliars are aimed at improving the quality of ripening fruit. There is research demonstrating the efficacy of this practice.
I wonder if there is a benefit to calcium foliar even under ideal conditions? I use the IAL calcium foliar. My plants do seem to respond as described in their literature.
I wonder if there is a benefit to calcium foliar even under ideal conditions? I use the IAL calcium foliar. My plants do seem to respond as described in their literature.
Never,
Lots of you growers are seeing response to foliar calcium. That in reality is a bit scarey.
To see foliar response to leaves means you all are really missing the boat at the soil level, guaranteeing from day 1 something less of a plant than that compared to a well balanced soil from the beginning of the plants life.
caterpillar710
Member
Most growers have hollow stems too man come on you can't expect pot growers to understand plant physiology off the bat
Cater,
I would bet more on boron versus calcium on the hollow stem. You can have enough calcium (highly unlikely though) and still have hollow stem on many other crops that I have grown.
caterpillar710
Member
Like I said how would you expect them to know that boron is the chauffeur for calcium in to the plant
How do you expect them to understand intricate ionic relationships and how they influence hormone production in the plant
Most growers just buy whatever the guys at the store or their friends or neighbors use. This thread is basically proof of it. You got people buying it because they see someone successful with it but then have to come here and ask how to and how much to apply and so on. It's a joke
Very few growers read books with real science in them most have books like marijuana growing bible or Greg greets grow guide not one iota of soil chemistry or biology or agronomy or anything in them.
The misinformation is sad.
neverforget4/20
Member
Bro the comprehension failure is on your side.
In fact this thread is the opposite of what youre ranting about. Pretty much everyone here uses science in their garden.
For funzies I checked my sap PH...5.6, fail. I fertigated 1 gram albion Ca and 5 ml hyper K per gallon raised the sap PH to 6.1 in 48 hours. Just a lil info for you guys don't know if that's the right or best approach but it's what I did
Oh ya sap ec went up 50% too....Didn't double check the brix my bad
Oh ya sap ec went up 50% too....Didn't double check the brix my bad
caterpillar710
Member
You don't even know who you're talking to. Every one in this thread except jidoka and myself is just trying to copy what we are doing.
