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a wicked pulse
- Thread starter delta9nxs
- Start date
You bastard.
You bastard.
You bastard.
howdy doobie!
yep!
actually i didn't make up my mind about doing this in a new thread until minutes before i posted.
and now, The Bastard would like to show a few more pics. if i could but i don't seem to be able to load them right now. i'll try again later.
D
disciple
D
disciple
hey, bg! wassup, homey!
editing to add that i'm on smoke break and i don't use tobacco. i got to go back at it but i'll be back. there is so much detail involved building this kind of stuff.
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this could be a gigantic mistake. i have thought about it all for a long time and the only reason i can think of that it would not yield at least passably well is if i don't perform the right tasks at the right time. i will keep records on each plant and will look at labor versus yield after we get the weights.
as far as support i was thinking about these 4' long 3/8" fiberglass rods into the medium down the sidewall and c-clamped to the top rim. but it would be far stronger to lag screw some 2x2's or angle material to the caddies. i have time to do that after transplant. good idea.
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Nice project! can't wait to see the rest. I agree that I'd be scared pushing a 20' of weed wall alone. looks like the same kinda things have been going thru both our minds. this is a pic below where I stuck 2 vertical bamboos into a 5 gallon bucket then lashed on 3 horizontal bamboos using zip ties. add a couple vert segments on the outside edges and i had a wall i could keep training to in veg.
I liked having the screen/wall attached to each plant so I could pull it out of the grow, set it on a turntable and water and train it. the screen was about 2.5' wide and 2' high. plants finished from 2.5-5 zips.
I only did this once because it was alot of extra work in the end. more productive/ more time fussing with things. I think the biggest potential is in the movable wall of weed with electric lightmovers. you are on the right track homeboy!
I liked having the screen/wall attached to each plant so I could pull it out of the grow, set it on a turntable and water and train it. the screen was about 2.5' wide and 2' high. plants finished from 2.5-5 zips.
I only did this once because it was alot of extra work in the end. more productive/ more time fussing with things. I think the biggest potential is in the movable wall of weed with electric lightmovers. you are on the right track homeboy!
howdy, gg4lifeb! welcome! 6 post since sept! at that rate you will be able to pm in 6.9 years.
hey, chunkypigs! yes, it is definitely going to be more detail work. but, like disciple, i'm tired of growing any larf on a plant at all. it is wasted energy in all aspects from personal labor to wasted light and other grow resources. your photo shows nearly equal bud development at all sites. nice job!
there is no penetration with indoor lighting. with a par meter i get 1500 umols at approx 12 inches from the glass of a cool tube. in free air with no obstructions just 2" further away at 14" reduces the reading to 1200 umols.
behind a single leaf at the same 14" distance gets 250 umols. i think this is right on the threshold of the amount of light necessary to drive photosynthesis adequately enough to turn a plant part into a producer.
penetration of foliage outdoors is achieved not by brute force of light as some believe but by the movement of the sun.
as the sun passes the plant it is accessing the interior of the plant from different angles. this exposes plant parts to higher umol photosynthetic quality light for long enough intervals to make the interior parts productive.
i've thought about light movers and they do work well in some situations but they are not a commercial solution to high production because they starve one area to give light to another.
solar light appears equal to the plant because of the great distance. that is, all photons are striking with the same intensity traveling nearly parallel. it also hits with what appears to the plant to be equal intensity at the depth of field represented by a three dimensional plant.
indoors with fixed close range emitters the light radiates outwards like spokes of a wheel. each incidence of angle will produce a different umol flow striking the plant because it is traveling a different distance. slight increases in depth of field negate light energy.
i think light movers could have a valuable function providing diffused red light to interior areas long enough to interrupt the far red trigger. this could be done from the backside of a screened plant. it does not have to be a powerful light to accomplish this. just the right frequency.
the far red light does not contribute significantly to photosynthesis but is used by the plant as a regulating signal. we can interrupt that signal. far red penetrates foliage better than red simply because of longer wavelength. this higher penetration capability is what changes the red/far red ratio sub canopy as the red is filtered by leaves.
however, if the foliage is removed in key places and growth is controlled for exposure there is nothing to penetrate and the ratio at the bud sites stays near full sunlight levels.
in my previous situation shown on the ppk thread i was able to use multi-point lighting fairly effectively. what i saw was that the combination of multiple angles eliminated much of the shading that occurs with single point lighting. this has a profound effect on morphology.
hey, chunkypigs! yes, it is definitely going to be more detail work. but, like disciple, i'm tired of growing any larf on a plant at all. it is wasted energy in all aspects from personal labor to wasted light and other grow resources. your photo shows nearly equal bud development at all sites. nice job!
there is no penetration with indoor lighting. with a par meter i get 1500 umols at approx 12 inches from the glass of a cool tube. in free air with no obstructions just 2" further away at 14" reduces the reading to 1200 umols.
behind a single leaf at the same 14" distance gets 250 umols. i think this is right on the threshold of the amount of light necessary to drive photosynthesis adequately enough to turn a plant part into a producer.
penetration of foliage outdoors is achieved not by brute force of light as some believe but by the movement of the sun.
as the sun passes the plant it is accessing the interior of the plant from different angles. this exposes plant parts to higher umol photosynthetic quality light for long enough intervals to make the interior parts productive.
i've thought about light movers and they do work well in some situations but they are not a commercial solution to high production because they starve one area to give light to another.
solar light appears equal to the plant because of the great distance. that is, all photons are striking with the same intensity traveling nearly parallel. it also hits with what appears to the plant to be equal intensity at the depth of field represented by a three dimensional plant.
indoors with fixed close range emitters the light radiates outwards like spokes of a wheel. each incidence of angle will produce a different umol flow striking the plant because it is traveling a different distance. slight increases in depth of field negate light energy.
i think light movers could have a valuable function providing diffused red light to interior areas long enough to interrupt the far red trigger. this could be done from the backside of a screened plant. it does not have to be a powerful light to accomplish this. just the right frequency.
the far red light does not contribute significantly to photosynthesis but is used by the plant as a regulating signal. we can interrupt that signal. far red penetrates foliage better than red simply because of longer wavelength. this higher penetration capability is what changes the red/far red ratio sub canopy as the red is filtered by leaves.
however, if the foliage is removed in key places and growth is controlled for exposure there is nothing to penetrate and the ratio at the bud sites stays near full sunlight levels.
in my previous situation shown on the ppk thread i was able to use multi-point lighting fairly effectively. what i saw was that the combination of multiple angles eliminated much of the shading that occurs with single point lighting. this has a profound effect on morphology.
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Hey d9 ¨far red penetrates foliage better than red simply because of longer wavelength.¨ but isnt the ~longer~ even farther red absorbed by the water in leaves, if the glass isnt there of course ¨Under outside conditions, the R:FR ratio changes from 1.15 during daylight to 0.7 during twilight in the evening ¨ I wonder what the R:FR ratio is while the bulbs are cooling down, even that last minute of the day seems to have an effect. Maybe have some cfls turn on for a bit, since they should have the least FR without using LEDs. A single leaf does have a big effect on the FR ratio though, makes me want to start hacking some off
i'm not sure i understand "longer~ even farther red absorbed by water in leaves, if the glass isn't there of course."
from what i have read it seems that a brief period of red is sufficient to interrupt far red signaling. how much and how long i don't know.
please clarify.
The Bastard will attempt to upload pics yet again!
ok, just some more general purpose shots
the main res without the lines installed. a 50 gal sterilite container with 24 tire valves installed as low as possible. attached through the sidewall with 3/16"x1/2" stainless machine screws and nuts is a 3 liter sterilite "ultra latch" food storage container. notice it's the red one and rectangular. the float valve fits it nicely.
more on the pump and manifold later.
last pic just shows the floor/reflectix seal.
the reservoir is on two levels of solid 4x8x16 blocks making it the same height as the top of the caddies so the water level we have here is the same in the plant reservoirs.
ok, just some more general purpose shots
the main res without the lines installed. a 50 gal sterilite container with 24 tire valves installed as low as possible. attached through the sidewall with 3/16"x1/2" stainless machine screws and nuts is a 3 liter sterilite "ultra latch" food storage container. notice it's the red one and rectangular. the float valve fits it nicely.
more on the pump and manifold later.
last pic just shows the floor/reflectix seal.
the reservoir is on two levels of solid 4x8x16 blocks making it the same height as the top of the caddies so the water level we have here is the same in the plant reservoirs.
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diggitydank420
New member
I cant wait to see this up and running
The Bastard got lucky, can he do it again?
some details on the 3 liter sterilite container.
in the first photo i'm pointing to a single 3/32" hole low in one corner.
second is a 5/8" hole centered in that area of the plastic.
the third shows two 3/16" holes for the screws.
if this is mounted so the center of the 5/8" hole for the float valve is at 10.5" from the bottom you will have the desired range of adjustment using the wing nut type float valve.
some details on the 3 liter sterilite container.
in the first photo i'm pointing to a single 3/32" hole low in one corner.
second is a 5/8" hole centered in that area of the plastic.
the third shows two 3/16" holes for the screws.
if this is mounted so the center of the 5/8" hole for the float valve is at 10.5" from the bottom you will have the desired range of adjustment using the wing nut type float valve.
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This is now my new favorite threadSubbed
thank you! welcome aboard!
me too! i thought i was nearly done 2 days ago but i'm still doing detail shit all day long now. a couple of more days, maybe!
