A Taste of Africa from Malawi
- Thread starter Zanddar
- Start date
I just popped 6 Malawi's along with another strain from a different vendor. Had 100% germination. I have them in a dome, many weeks away from what you all are enjoying. But that's what makes it fun, the getting there. This is my second growing try ever. It's my first try with seeds and my first with a Sativa dominant or landrace.
I'll pop in here from time to time to say how it's going. Feel free to come by and offer advice, comments, corrections or even condolences, depending how it all turns out.
Take care,
Ona
I'll pop in here from time to time to say how it's going. Feel free to come by and offer advice, comments, corrections or even condolences, depending how it all turns out.
Take care,
Ona
Lowellprince
Member
Here r my five clones off my Malawi.....the one that got doused w phdown? Well, she ended up finishing w 1.25 zips left after clearing out 2/3 of her after the incident. The first two r first clones that also got hit in the crossfire of phdown but are kicking butt now n the other 3 are lst, scrogged n mainlined(manifolded).....check it
Attachments
I truly understand your problem w/ regards to them looking overfed. I have one particular Thai that always does excellent in veg, but as soon as she's flipped to flower, she looks like she's over-fed even if I reduce the strength of her nutrient profile from what it was in veg. Ive ran her 4 times now, and still can't get her properly dialed in without it looking like she's been over-fed. Some plants are always going to frustrate us it seems.
Its the fertility testing that allows me to get almost all my ladies into the right fertility range, and its actually simpler than you may believe.
No need to send a soil test off to improve your garden, but probably a good idea every now and then. I used to send off soil sample tests, but I dont bother anymore. Now I use a suction lysimeter to extract soil solution samples. Ill then test the PPM value with my Bluelab Combo meter.
What you want to do is when your plant is green and healthy from tip to toe, measure fertility levels using the lysimeter and EC/PPM meter. That value is your baseline fertility where you want to be near.
Lets say my Thai are happy and healthy at 1250 ppm in Veg, then Ill try to stay around that value in veg/flower, by still continuing to test extraction samples. As long as you keep up with weekly, or daily sample solutions, you can tailor your feed solution for best results. Sometimes I have to up my feed, sometimes I need to lower it. Knowing soil fertility levels right before feeding gives you so much insight!
Taking alot of daily samples also lets you see how much feed your plants are taking up from the previous day. Ive had GN Thai that have reduced ppm levels in the media by 1000 in a 24 hour period before! Typically its in the 300-400 range day to day in my garden though.
Its also a good idea for knowledge sake to reduce feed while recording measurements, so you can see what value N deficiency symptoms appear. Anything under 800ppm under high intensity lighting will almost always produce severe N deficiency symptoms in my garden. Distance to light is also a big factor on how quickly N deficiency sets in too IME. Keep the light further away, and the yellowing takes longer to set in even under low feed levels.
If you are curious after reading all that, I recommend getting a 12 inch Irrometer Suction Lysimeter and start going to town testing those extracted samples. With enough experience doing that, you'll be able to push those yellow leaves much further back into flowering than you were before. You'll learn alot about what each individual plant likes too, so Id recommend multiple lysimeters.
Dave that's a beauty there what I'm wondering is when are you going to grow some ace GT or Malawi or PanamaB
Ive wanted to grow Aces GT for a long time now. Always had my eye on it, but my fridge is full of seeds, but I do need to get something soon. Ive got an Outdoor Mix from Ace in my fridge right now that Ive had for a few years. I should start those, so I have an excuse to buy more Ace seeds.
That Malawi looks amazing for 10 weeks. Really swollen calyxes on her already. Im jealous not to have any Malawi from Ace to try
. I bet its outstanding.
Borderliner
Active member
12 wks
12 wks
all show little amber mostly cloudy trichs.
Lots of light intensity with these leds but think 2 more wks.
12 wks
all show little amber mostly cloudy trichs.
Lots of light intensity with these leds but think 2 more wks.
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Hello everyone,nice bud dave,spugg that;s beutifull,tangwena i defentlly will try your cob cure
,today i am 10 weeks from switch and i feed her some molasses i eat some too 
am i near finish?Do you think i must stop feed and give her only water?I defently will need some help to determine the right time to get her down.I don;t have a microscope at the moment to see trichomes but i will have it in some days.
,today i am 10 weeks from switch and i feed her some molasses i eat some too am i near finish?Do you think i must stop feed and give her only water?I defently will need some help to determine the right time to get her down.I don;t have a microscope at the moment to see trichomes but i will have it in some days.Attachments
Borderliner
Active member
Hello everyone,nice bud dave,spugg that;s beutifull,tangwena i defentlly will try your cob cure
https://www.icmag.com/ic/attachment.php?attachmentid=406912View Image https://www.icmag.com/ic/attachment.php?attachmentid=406913View Image
kerberos, send dubi a photo of a bud and he'll tell you if done.
Two items were discussing here.
With a suction lysimeter, you are actually extracting soil solution from the pore spaces within your media. It will give you a truer value of fertility levels than the pour-thru method. Aka run-off. Doesn't harm roots either, and can be done very frequently.
The PPM/EC meter I use is Bluelab brand. Works very well after more than 5 years of use. Its expensive. $200+ last time I bought one. Still around that now. This meter will test the extracted sample, and what you do with the information from there is up to you.
It wont provide a breakdown of NPK, etc, just an overall value of the PPM of Ions available in the soil solution. Throughout repeated usage, recording, and observing your plants you'll be able to work out a range that is ideal for your plants.
Now if you're an organic grower...well I dont know how well this combination will work for you. If you use synthetic nutrients like I do, give it a go.
ULMW
Active member
Hello everyone,nice bud dave,spugg that;s beutifull,tangwena i defentlly will try your cob cure
[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/attachment.php?attachmentid=406912&thumb=1]View Image[/url] [URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/attachment.php?attachmentid=406913&thumb=1]View Image[/url]
Greetings! Malawi indoors looking very nice and at 10weeks it is about the time as you wrote to switch up and flush properly then watch your trichs for your taste by 13weeks it should be ready for harvest as already looks pretty close. Well done on your grow. Enjoy the harvest and savor your cured Malawi ! Happy growing.
Lammy
Member
It sure looks real nice though.
Borderliner
Active member
13 wk
13 wk
the two malawi phenos first the multi top didn't have a cola pheno the top buds have turned golden mostly cloudy with few trichs. The second malawi coloumun pheno is the stronger of the two so far. #2 smells anise, wood, maybe something and this week started some pine oil smell.
#1
#2
13 wk
the two malawi phenos first the multi top didn't have a cola pheno the top buds have turned golden mostly cloudy with few trichs. The second malawi coloumun pheno is the stronger of the two so far. #2 smells anise, wood, maybe something and this week started some pine oil smell.
#1
#2
Borderliner
Active member
malawi 102 days
malawi 102 days
ready for the chop. will do some boiling water to the roots and sit in dark place few days then chop.
malawi 102 days
ready for the chop. will do some boiling water to the roots and sit in dark place few days then chop.
MountainBudz
⛽🦨 Kinebud and Heirloom Preservationist! 🦨 ⛽
I am currently running two malawi fems at the moment and have a question. The plants are in week 3 of flowering and the best looking one that is most vigorous with the thinnest leaves, has flower nodes stacked from the top to bottom, looks to be a tremendous yielder has a problem. On the lower canopy last week I found two balls, plucked them off. Found 3 more this week and removed those as well. This plant is running along with 16 more different strains including one other malawi that is doing fine.
I did have a light leak first week of flower, it has been fixed. I had found a few balls here and there on other plants at the time but have removed them and under close inspection have not found anymore male flowers growing. Seems the problem has stopped after fixing the leak.
But this malawi, second to the most vigorous plant in the room that would other wise be full of 3 foot long solid buds continues to grow balls. These are just very few and so far very manageable and they are at the base of the branch "the pits" against the main stalk. Now last night I did find 2 balls growing on the base of a flower a bit higher than usual in the canopy. I know this was likely my mistake and I take 100% credit for it but was wondering how common this was with malawi? Do you think it will become bad enough to worry about? I worry that there will be a few hidden inside the flowers as they develop that I will miss and hope like hell she doesnt pollinate the entire room. Oscillating fan is off for now and the room/plants gets misted with water every night.
Keep removing balls? Try Switch or some other ethephon containing product like Florel? Thought about doing this anyway as I had foubd a few more after that light leak a couple weeks ago, but not had any problems since except with the malawi.
Thanks!
I did have a light leak first week of flower, it has been fixed. I had found a few balls here and there on other plants at the time but have removed them and under close inspection have not found anymore male flowers growing. Seems the problem has stopped after fixing the leak.
But this malawi, second to the most vigorous plant in the room that would other wise be full of 3 foot long solid buds continues to grow balls. These are just very few and so far very manageable and they are at the base of the branch "the pits" against the main stalk. Now last night I did find 2 balls growing on the base of a flower a bit higher than usual in the canopy. I know this was likely my mistake and I take 100% credit for it but was wondering how common this was with malawi? Do you think it will become bad enough to worry about? I worry that there will be a few hidden inside the flowers as they develop that I will miss and hope like hell she doesnt pollinate the entire room. Oscillating fan is off for now and the room/plants gets misted with water every night.
Keep removing balls? Try Switch or some other ethephon containing product like Florel? Thought about doing this anyway as I had foubd a few more after that light leak a couple weeks ago, but not had any problems since except with the malawi.
Thanks!
Borderliner
Active member
#2 malawi ready at 102 days
#2 malawi ready at 102 days
#2 malawi ready at 102 days
MountainBudz
⛽🦨 Kinebud and Heirloom Preservationist! 🦨 ⛽
Looks amazing borderline! This is my first time running malawi myself and im gonna run her outdoors as well. Also have a pack of ace seeds fem "outdoor mix" i'm gonna run as well. I have ran the Golden Tiger and Zamaldelica and they were both killer plants. The Zamaldelica was one of the largest yielders I have ever had to be in such a small container "3 gallon/600 watt hps" yielded over 5 ounces in promix!
My current malawi is throwing balls though
, hope I get to finish her out. But man your plants are stunning!
