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a ppk for a 6 plant limit

RamCTD1027

Member
I can help answer one of these questions...

A float valve is still used but not in a food container with hole. Each group of three buckets make up a plant module. One of the three buckets for each plant has a float valve in it, without the food container. Therefore, you need one float valve per plant with the three bucket design.

There are other flow patterns you can utilize that don't require a float per plant but av8or's design shown with three buckets per plant uses a one float per plant.

Just finished this reading this awesome thread. When I get back to growing it will definitely be a PPK design of some sort!

av8or,

With the three bucket design are you still using the float valve leveler(food container with a hole)?

Delta,

Earlier in the thread you mentioned that you were going to help someone build a PPK set up with a horizontal scrog and DE bulbs. How did that set up do? Were they still able to achieve 1-2 plants?

D2G
 

Miraculous Meds

Well-known member
Here you go O. As you can see there is no root 'dick' hanging off the bottom of the root ball (3 gallons of turface). This one had only 2 holes drilled about 2" down from the bottom of the PPK, this one had some roots reach the bottom of the wick (very few) and that slugy looking piece (pic) was taken from about where the holes are/were. The next to harvest PPK has 4 (as I remember) holes drilled as far up the wick as possible. I will tell you about it in the next few days but all in all, "I" have nothing to loose by drilling what I'll call air pruning holes in the tailpiece and will continue the practice. Its cheap and 2 for 2 with little roots, I'm encouraged.

I think this is a good idea!

I have no doubts that it works like that, but I was wondering if it effected the hydraulic effect, or wicking?

Care to chime in D9, or anybody smarter than I, that understands it better?
 

Snook

Still Learning
next will be and 8"-9" circle of weed stop material over a mound of turface 6"-7" in diameter and 1 inch high above the wicks opening.
Will also put a couple thermoloam strips in a 2 of the 4 PPKs next run.. Shot in the dark: the roots seem to go for that stuff in the veggers wicks.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Weed-X-3...ucts-Roll-Landscape-Fabric-WX-100HD/202871735

it stops weeds from sending down roots around my home. My logic: the roots will be forced to the sides of the PPK and will stack there. Hopefully, if drainage is free flowing there will little need for the little with devils from clogging the tailpiece. Its gotta work, no? I have implemented this in a couple of my PPKveg containers but have no results yet.
 

av8or

Member
We were discussing some sort of permeable membrane barrier or screen for trapping roots, too. Seemed to us maybe it'll break the hydraulic connection but if not, then I don't see why it wouldn't work. Maybe put an inch of media in the bottom of the container and then place the screen?

I use thermaloam for starting cuttings with massive success. Haven't tried it in a large ppk site. I'm interested to see how your experiment turns out.
 

av8or

Member
Oh, and unless the power goes out entirely (not just a pump failure) there's nowhere near the wicking capability to feed a plant with lights on. One of my blueberries proved that recently.
 

Oysters

Member
next will be and 8"-9" circle of weed stop material over a mound of turface 6"-7" in diameter and 1 inch high above the wicks opening

The tailpiece holes weren't a complete answer? Did the last run with 4 holes do what you were expecting?

The permeable barrier is an interesting idea. To av8or's point, if a need for wicking caused by pump failure won't keep a plant alive anyway, and if pump failure is a rare event (do pumps have a low MTBF?), then maybe the effect of the PB on draining is the only thing that matters. Timed drains with and without a PB over the tailpiece maybe would answer that.

Be nice to solve clogging issues.
 

Snook

Still Learning
The tailpiece holes weren't a complete answer? Did the last run with 4 holes do what you were expecting?

The permeable barrier is an interesting idea. To av8or's point, if a need for wicking caused by pump failure won't keep a plant alive anyway, and if pump failure is a rare event (do pumps have a low MTBF?), then maybe the effect of the PB on draining is the only thing that matters. Timed drains with and without a PB over the tailpiece maybe would answer that.

Be nice to solve clogging issues.

I'm still waiting on the other 2 plants, week or three more but the first one was encouraging, the second did have some few roots down the tailpiece and into the rez but no where near clogged.. that being said, the second one didn't do as well as previously so I'm thinking something else was awry. but in addition, McK, Av8tor, BIG and the rest are growing trees I am not.

I'll let you know when the other two are hacked how the drilled tailpieces made out.
 

down2grow

Member
av8or,

On post 1421 on page 95, did you daisy chain all of your 3 gallon control buckets(float valve) with 1 big reservoir? On the third picture it looks like you just stuck the 1/4" line straight in. Was there no grommets or bulkheads used?
 

av8or

Member
av8or,

On post 1421 on page 95, did you daisy chain all of your 3 gallon control buckets(float valve) with 1 big reservoir? On the third picture it looks like you just stuck the 1/4" line straight in. Was there no grommets or bulkheads used?

D2G, yeah boss. No fittings necessary. The outside diameter of the 1/4" vinyl tubing I use (hydro flow) is 3/8". I drill a 5/16" hole in whatever container I'm using (1/16" smaller than the tubing) and jam it on in. Cut the end of the tube at an angle to help feed it through. The soft vinyl forms a nice seal.
 

Snook

Still Learning
We were discussing some sort of permeable membrane barrier or screen for trapping roots, too. Seemed to us maybe it'll break the hydraulic connection but if not, then I don't see why it wouldn't work. Maybe put an inch of media in the bottom of the container and then place the screen?

I use thermaloam for starting cuttings with massive success. Haven't tried it in a large ppk site. I'm interested to see how your experiment turns out.

water is allowed thru the stuff, roots NOT. and I'm agreeing about not enough 'wicking' via the wick (how profound) to keepem going too long in bloom.. watering a qt every 90 minutes always leaves a wet spot, OTOH, there are days I don't goseem.. not noseum.. go seem. so there is the window of doom if the pumpfails... but If the hand waterer forgets or is unable to water, isn't that the same kinda 'issue'? the wick may not provide enough upward wicking bu roots 'will' find the water in the rez via the wick. not ideal but a backup of sorts anyway.. good morning, ramblin & ripped outta my mind.



I
 

gmanwho

Well-known member
Veteran
due to in consistent flooding issues, cause some overflow quicker, an not wanting to keep messing with ball vave adjusting as the plant progresses, an should say as the tail piece clogs with roots, i was messing around with changing the top grate in the tail piece.

i ended up cutting up 3" pvc pipe repair couplings. its just slightly larger then 3" pvc. i cut them in like 3/8th inch rings. place them on the tail piece pvc an then screw them together. i get like 5 or 6 out of 1 repair coupling.

this way now there's a space underneath the 3/8th ring and top bucket. the tail piece moves up an down when not loaded, which is slightly annoying when empty or moving loaded buckets. but , now i could run the pump without any over flow issues.

ran one run which turned out good. still dialing that room. this last clean out roots did not go under ring an into lower bucket.


kinda found this by accident as i ran out of the pvc snap in drains. cheaper too.

ill throw up pics soone
 

420ish

Active member
what is the best short cycle timer to use?i have been using the ct1 but had another go bad.they also end up with changed settings sometimes after a power fluctuation.i am looking for one that retains its settings after a power loss.
any and all help is appreciated
 

McKush

Éirinn go Brách
ICMag Donor
Veteran
420, the timer you mention is rebranded by a ton of resellers and at best it is horrible, f* hazard as far as i'm concerned. They fail left and right.

i like blueprint digital cycle timers, in my case i need a cycle timer capable of seconds. The BDCT-1 is good and i like the dual timer BDCT-2 the best.

Whatever you do the timer needs to have a decent relay, the ct1's you mention don't.
 

TurboCharged

New member
First off I'd like to thank everyone that has contributed to the site. :thank you: I have been a long time lurker and the ppk made me join up!! Will be setting up a 3.5 on a 3.5 single ppk plant run in a couple weeks, gathering parts now :woohoo: thanks again d9, av8tor and everyone else for all the knowledge!
 

Snook

Still Learning
I'm still waiting on the other 2 plants, week or three more but the first one was encouraging, the second did have some few roots down the tailpiece and into the rez but no where near clogged.. that being said, the second one didn't do as well as previously so I'm thinking something else was awry. but in addition, McK, Av8tor, BIG and the rest are growing trees I am not.

I'll let you know when the other two are hacked how the drilled tailpieces made out.

The last 2 were harvested.. both were much larger than the first 2 and both did have some roots in the rez but neither was clogged. Ive just started with the root stop material.. see you in a few months.:tiphat: High McKush.:biggrin:
 

McKush

Éirinn go Brách
ICMag Donor
Veteran
The last 2 were harvested.. both were much larger than the first 2 and both did have some roots in the rez but neither was clogged. Ive just started with the root stop material.. see you in a few months.:tiphat: High McKush.:biggrin:

Hiya back atcha Shnookums. :tiphat:
 
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McKush

Éirinn go Brách
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Heya Gry - no. Since reducing feed amount to ~1qt. I havent had any fungus nats. You might be staying too wet chap.
 

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