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a ppk for a 6 plant limit
- Thread starter delta9nxs
- Start date
If ur asking for a strategic reason, I don't like taking the top of the plant. But it can be a strain specific decision. If u need more branching from a plant that just grows pole like and doesn't shoot laterals that well, this is an excellent choice. If u already have a strain that grows laterally like crazy, then this is a bad choice cause u will end up with a bunch of week scraggly laterals instead of a few dominate tops. It comes down to what u want to accomplish by shaping ur plant if ur going to use that plant to flower. If its just a donor, or mother plant for clone stock then it does not matter.
I know I don't like topping mainly because it takes a couple to few weeks to gain the vigor again so not to effect flowering.
Congrats on the new kid grow4flow.
Plus it takes to dam long to root and from what i see of the root ball that is far from a clone looks more like 1 - 2 week vegged plant already
these are not separated. they root fine like that but are difficult to dig out without damage.
the one i'll show tomorrow keeps them separate and is more suited for production handling.
the turface is about 4.5" deep. basically a whole bag in one of these tubs but you don't remove much turface digging the clones out.
i rinse and reuse the turface and keep it topped off in these things.
D
disciple
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Nice D9!
Looks like you've got a new humidifier going too w/those blue cloths and fan
For really new rookie first time cloners.... if your cuts are wilting when you have them out in the open like D9 shows then either your environment is not dialed (too cold, humidity too low in entire room) and/or your starting material (mom plants) are not match fit.
In that case you can overcome your crappy starting material and environmental deficits by using domes.... and domes can be a useful tool in sub-par conditions with weak moms.
Grow4Flow, Supreme mag-drive pumps (1800 gph or 2500 gph) move lots of fluid. I prefer them to Mondi sumps that I've used in the past.
Or just cover the tote with saran wrap is what i would do wondering would probably work also maybe D9 will chime in just cloning in reg soil and dome 1x1 cubes 72 pack tray once rooted place them into pre veg where you place them into 4 x 4 milk cartons with drains fill the with medium your going to use for day or so self water until roots take hold and most of soil is washed out ,,, Then cut bottom of milk cartoon and transplant into your main medium after couple days get scissors and cut one side of milk cartoon in your medium an remove it wa la transplanted lol
Unclecrash
Member
Does coco work in this system, and wht media to use in the tailpipe.
Miraculous Meds
Well-known member
Yes. But I would stay away from the coffee ground coco as it holds and wicks too much moisture imo. U normally would use the same medium in the tailpipe to keep the pwt in the tailpipe.
O
Oti$
I've used 50\50 coco clay pebbles with great results, packing the tail pipe with straight coco. I know the best results are with turface or floor dry, but I know coco well and have not made the jump to the other mediums. I think I will be trying floor dry in my next ppk grow. Good luck
Snook
Still Learning
i didn't have bad results with straight coco but I couldn't get ridda da gnats. ran it with jacks+, do not remember any nutrient deficiencies.. OTOH, the 8822 or MVP is much easier to work with and its (the MVP more) reusable.
this a complete recirculating ppk set up for cloning "production" cuts.
the folks i built this for have two 12 plant rooms with the 7 gal tubs.
they will alternate harvests so only need 12 at a time.
this spacing will allow thorough rooting and keeps the plants apart so that they are not experiencing any shade avoidance syndrome and the accompanying elongation response.
once they get to the point of contact they will be lifted out of this spacing and placed, in these containers, in a duplicate device with only 2 per tote top.
light will be increased. feed will be brought to 600 ppm and they will be grown until they are approx the size of the clones in the transplant photos above.
then transplanted into the 7 gal tubs and power vegged until they are flipped.
the first photo shows the entire set up. 3 10 gal rubbermaid totes, 2 3.5 gal buckets, and a 20 gal brute trash can for a volume tank.
the blue totes won't grow algae.
the distributors are rain bird open types without compensators so they flow pretty good. they are threaded for 1/2" pipe and i used a standard 1/2" mpt to 1/2" hose barb to connect to the hose. hose barb t's and l's where needed.
the plant containers are rubbermaid food storage from wally's. each container has a single approx 7/16" hole burned with a soldering iron dead center through which is threaded a 3"x7" rolled up piece of thermolam plus 100% polyester batting. also from wally's in the fabric dept.
about 2" of the fabric is pressed flat against the inside bottom while loading the turface to minimize root contact.
the rest just hangs through the 7/8" hole in the tote top. (pic 4).
the pump container is a 3.5 gal bucket. it and the 3 totes are connected by the neoprene garden hose. in the pump bucket pic you can see the hose entering on the lower left.
the pump is a 500 gph mag drive. it will operate for less than 20 minutes per day. it has a 1/2" male pipe output to which is connected a 1/2" fpt x 1/2" hose barb fitting.
the folks i built this for have two 12 plant rooms with the 7 gal tubs.
they will alternate harvests so only need 12 at a time.
this spacing will allow thorough rooting and keeps the plants apart so that they are not experiencing any shade avoidance syndrome and the accompanying elongation response.
once they get to the point of contact they will be lifted out of this spacing and placed, in these containers, in a duplicate device with only 2 per tote top.
light will be increased. feed will be brought to 600 ppm and they will be grown until they are approx the size of the clones in the transplant photos above.
then transplanted into the 7 gal tubs and power vegged until they are flipped.
the first photo shows the entire set up. 3 10 gal rubbermaid totes, 2 3.5 gal buckets, and a 20 gal brute trash can for a volume tank.
the blue totes won't grow algae.
the distributors are rain bird open types without compensators so they flow pretty good. they are threaded for 1/2" pipe and i used a standard 1/2" mpt to 1/2" hose barb to connect to the hose. hose barb t's and l's where needed.
the plant containers are rubbermaid food storage from wally's. each container has a single approx 7/16" hole burned with a soldering iron dead center through which is threaded a 3"x7" rolled up piece of thermolam plus 100% polyester batting. also from wally's in the fabric dept.
about 2" of the fabric is pressed flat against the inside bottom while loading the turface to minimize root contact.
the rest just hangs through the 7/8" hole in the tote top. (pic 4).
the pump container is a 3.5 gal bucket. it and the 3 totes are connected by the neoprene garden hose. in the pump bucket pic you can see the hose entering on the lower left.
the pump is a 500 gph mag drive. it will operate for less than 20 minutes per day. it has a 1/2" male pipe output to which is connected a 1/2" fpt x 1/2" hose barb fitting.
showing the connection between the pump container and the float container. 2 tire valves and a piece of 1/4" vinyl tubing. this can be done without the tire valves but i like the flow rate imposed by the tire valve id.
in this photo you can also see the input for the float valve.
standard float valve set up. i'm starting initially at 3" for the air gap.
in the last one you can see some of the feed lines don't have the downward pointing L's yet and they shoot water across the room like a squirt gun.
all very scalable. the pump will be fired by a blueprint brand digital repeat cycle timer also.
i'm sure i have omitted something important so feel free to ask away.
in this photo you can also see the input for the float valve.
standard float valve set up. i'm starting initially at 3" for the air gap.
in the last one you can see some of the feed lines don't have the downward pointing L's yet and they shoot water across the room like a squirt gun.
all very scalable. the pump will be fired by a blueprint brand digital repeat cycle timer also.
i'm sure i have omitted something important so feel free to ask away.
Snook
Still Learning
youve been very busy, brother nicely done...and youre finally putting to use all that 1/4" hose you had laying around...
D
disciple
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first day (this time).. I'll try a 2 gallon ppk, for lack of bigger space and smaller plants. still jacks pro + Cal..
Pics or it didn't happen.
nice build! that's a really neat, clean design!
it's just a different way of accomplishing the same thing. instead of the float chamber being in the pump chamber it's outside of it.
the restricted id of the tire valves acts like the 3/64" hole in the plastic float container in the pump chambers.
it can be convenient to do it this way sometimes if you are dealing with smaller systems.
the pin has gotta go or it won't flow.
