2016 Outdoor Garden of Eden

[caterpillar710]

I think they do matter because the concepts apply to management and you could look at growing through the lens of reducing waste and quality control Etc and many Japanese words embody concepts like you're saying , I think that is why their culture is so unique , their morality is on another level. Gutting yourself is commitment.

 

[caterpillar710]

He told me the guidelines based on temps. I then took that information and applied it to my current temps. I find it important to double check what people tell me, so I will wait until I personally verify his advice before recommending or posting anything. Verification through research on google scholar, and field trials.



I like Yucca. I use Nectar of the Gods brand or RAW yucca. It mixes well with the essential oils. I have used Dr Bronners normal soap in the past, works great. I have also used coco wet as well. I like the Nectar of the gods the best, just feels right.



You sick twisted freak (meant in the best way)

You just like the fancy nectar of The gods name. Buy that shit in bulk not with a dumb label

 

[FoothillFarming]

You just like the fancy nectar of The gods name. Buy that shit in bulk not with a dumb label

Got a link? I would appreciate not paying out the anus.

 

[caterpillar710]

Garuda international

 

[EastBayGrower]

I spoke to Foothill via pm and he said it would be cool if i posted my logan labs soil test up for you outdoor gurus to look at.. any comments are appreciated...

This is a test from one of my plants thats doing great but yellowing a bit early for my liking, its in a 65gallon smart pot, feed weekly with mild aea line and is about a month from harvest....

From what i can gather i should supplement K, Mg, and Micros via drench till harvest (especially the K which im assuming is causing the yellowing and is important for fruit filling and quality)



Here's a royal truth plant also in 65 gal thats being harvested this week, getting hammered by cats and aphids though, yellowing early, definitely the sickest plant so far..



this test shows the same low K, Mg, and micros but the Sulfer is through the roof, will leech and mix the soils up better to homogenize the ulfer levels after the grow, not too worried atm...


Finally, there's my new proposeed peat mix thats been drenched with act and sent in

 

[EastBayGrower]

also thought you guys might like to see these tests....

this is from California Humus from vital garden



and organics alive bloom castings



plan on using these as my compost at a ratio or 1:1 for about 25% of total mix

 

[FoothillFarming]

Thanks for sharing. I think I already posted my advice in your thread. I will double check that I didn't miss anything.

Chime in soil avengers! Lets here some Rx's.

I have been wanting to see numbers on the California Humus. I was thinking it would be a good alternative to compost, thinking it would have lower levels of K......Guess not. Seem like a good product overall, but needs a Ca boost along with it, IMO.

The Organics alive "bloom" mix is interesting. I see some things I like, and some things I don't. What is the prescribed method of application normally? Just mix with soil as base layer, or maybe more as a top dress come flip time? Either way, seems high in Mg, and very high in K. The boron is dangerously high IMO, compared to the Ca levels big time. Same with Aluminum as I understand it......

 

[FoothillFarming]

I also don't see any N inputs on your test. You say things are yellowing right? You say you only use AEA stuff right? Does that mean all year you have only been using SeaShield? If so, you also have an N deficiency. As I have been learning from SlowNickel, amino's can be a sweet way to apply N this time of year. If you go soy, make sure non gmo. I prefer fish. Fish amino's will help chelate Ca and K this time of year. (I think K) Kelp also. I would soil drench and foliar feed.

Edit: I should stop sending credit to SlowNickel because I am more than likely butchering what he has told me. Making him look bad.

 

[slownickel]

I also don't see any N inputs on your test. You say things are yellowing right? You say you only use AEA stuff right? Does that mean all year you have only been using SeaShield? If so, you also have an N deficiency. As I have been learning from SlowNickel, amino's can be a sweet way to apply N this time of year. If you go soy, make sure non gmo. I prefer fish. Fish amino's will help chelate Ca and K this time of year. (I think K) Kelp also. I would soil drench and foliar feed.

Edit: I should stop sending credit to SlowNickel because I am more than likely butchering what he has told me. Making him look bad.

I think what Footsy is trying to say is the lab didn't give you any N numbers back....

You're doing good... keep going.

 

[FoothillFarming]

I am 90% sure the tests are in the same order from his thread.....Top three in my thread.

Here is what I said there.

Nice, soil looks good overall.

Which soil is performing better? I would wager the second mix? Very similar profiles.

Lets get SlowNickel to comment, he always puts my recs to shame. However I am going to give it a shot anyway.

Test #1
Get some gypsum in there. That will raise the ph, and lower the exchangeable hydrogen. Also, not sure on the concept 100%, but I would wager those Ca levels are lower than reported.

Get those K levels up. You need a good amount of K, consider organic Potassium sulfate. https://www.amazon.com/Pounds-Potas...t_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=SJ4W661XCH14GCEDBEVJ

I personally like the Mg levels you have for this time of year. You can push molasses, raising that level a bit.

Mn and Cu need to be raised. I like AEA's or Albion foliar sprays. In the soil I would also consider sulfates.

Test two:
more of the same. The Mg levels need to be addressed more on these tests.

Test three:
Your Ca levels look better here, indicated by the higher Ph. Raise K, Mg, Zn, Cu, Mn. Raise Boron a hair.

Thanks for sharing. Everything looks good to me. Maybe you could tell us a little about how the plants are growing in each medium. I understand the last mix is just a starting mix, so nothing in it yet.

After talking to SlowNickel the other day, sounds like I messed up a couple things. One, gypsum wont effect PH......

Correct me where I am wrong and please throw in all and any advice guys.

 

[caterpillar710]

How come you would have a N deficiency with using sea shield ? It's got a ton of oils in it. That oil and fish protein is nitrogen ! It's full of fish Aminos , but it also has all kinds of goodies from shrimp and crab! the only fish in it is salmon not waste fish from canneries. Plus it's stabilized with sulfuric acid so you technically could just be using that instead of nPhuric...i say technically because in practice it settles and all that jazz

My plants seem big and green and I haven't tapped in to any ferti nitro except for 50grams for 1 100 gallon pot that is tryin to fuck on me (mr Chang from hangover reference). I also put 1.5 quarts sea shield down on top of that amongst other Amish woowoo juices today.

 

[EastBayGrower]

I also don't see any N inputs on your test. You say things are yellowing right? You say you only use AEA stuff right? Does that mean all year you have only been using SeaShield? If so, you also have an N deficiency. As I have been learning from SlowNickel, amino's can be a sweet way to apply N this time of year. If you go soy, make sure non gmo. I prefer fish. Fish amino's will help chelate Ca and K this time of year. (I think K) Kelp also. I would soil drench and foliar feed.

Edit: I should stop sending credit to SlowNickel because I am more than likely butchering what he has told me. Making him look bad.

I got the AEA line mid-july, since then i fed about 2ml per gal of micropak, ca, seashield, seacrop, seastim, rejuv, and photomag.. i also use a 2-4-0 fish hydrosylate, yucca, and ksil at same rate..

i top dressed some Ca carbonate adn neem at 1/2 cup per pot last week, so i should be ok on additional Ca, im going to fed with 5ml photomag, seastim, maxicrop, seacrop, and P.. hoping increasing those to 5ml will suffice to finish the flowers out properly...

should i hit them harder for a feedin or two?

any other advice on how to put a band aid on the soil to keep this harvest up to par for the last month...

I have calculated how much P.K,Mg, micros i need per yard of soil using the ideal soil figure of 400 pds per yard of soil. after the plants are done ill reammend according to what amendments i can find, as you can see the Sulfer is a bit high and ive used a good amount of gypsum on some of the soil, and damn near every ammendment i see for K, Mg and micros are all Sulfates... should i worry about more sulfer or not really since itll leach out easily...

 

[slownickel]

Eastbay,

Do you have a water analysis?

If you could, call the lab and ask them to run you the M3 numbers as well as the three nitrogens that they run. As well, run conductivity.

 

[FoothillFarming]

How come you would have a N deficiency with using sea shield ? It's got a ton of oils in it. That oil and fish protein is nitrogen ! It's full of fish Aminos , but it also has all kinds of goodies from shrimp and crab! the only fish in it is salmon not waste fish from canneries. Plus it's stabilized with sulfuric acid so you technically could just be using that instead of nPhuric...i say technically because in practice it settles and all that jazz

My plants seem big and green and I haven't tapped in to any ferti nitro except for 50grams for 1 100 gallon pot that is tryin to fuck on me (mr Chang from hangover reference). I also put 1.5 quarts sea shield down on top of that amongst other Amish woowoo juices today.

Well, I guess I can only speak on my crop. Starting the year, I calculated my N to my soil-less medium. I was adding SeaShield starting at 4ml per gal, all the way up to 16ml per gal after that. I apply around 1250 gal of H20 on average, so do the math. I kept it around 4-8ml per gal most of the year. After all that, I still was getting a fade on my plants, and tests show very little N.

Slownickel and a few others were just talking about how organic N doesn't show up on Spectrum.......Maybe they can elaborate?


Help EastBay out with his soil tests? I would love to hear what you think. Or at least tell me how I did, getting better yet?

 

[slownickel]

How come you would have a N deficiency with using sea shield ? It's got a ton of oils in it. That oil and fish protein is nitrogen ! It's full of fish Aminos , but it also has all kinds of goodies from shrimp and crab! the only fish in it is salmon not waste fish from canneries. Plus it's stabilized with sulfuric acid so you technically could just be using that instead of nPhuric...

Doctor Caterp,

How does oil turn into Nitrogen?

What is the pH of this product? Sulfuric acid does not help out microbiology much....there is enough to replace nPhuric? Uh oh....

Did AEA get these guys to test grease and call it nitrogen somehow? As Logan according to their own webpage only reports NH4 and nitrates.

How come the AEA samples are coming back with this third number? Any idea what the process is for making that number?

Let me get my radish seed out.

 

[caterpillar710]

The protein content is where the N comes from. The fat drives biology , where n comes from. The pH of sea shield is I believe 2 ? You can look at the msds and find out the exact.

I'd rather have sulfuric acid over phosphoric. I don't think citric acid is a strong enough stabilizer to keep it from going rancid..

It's recommended to put sea shield in the tank first and then check pH when blending.

Let me know when you decide good versus bad science and when you're gonna be objective about it and not try to use only what helps you make a point , again yes that bioassay may show 400ppm but if you have a lot of caco3 in the soil your m3 and aa8.2 ca will differ so I'm not sure why it would be out of the logical realm for you to understand there's a better way to measure Ppm of cytokinin same way there's better ways to chart ca in the soil than using only the m3 value.

Also waiting on your laminaria info as well as the nodosom info you were going to post ..let us know how it is!!

Class dismissed but surely you already knew all o dat der

 

[slownickel]

How come you would have a N deficiency with using sea shield ? It's got a ton of oils in it. That oil and fish protein is nitrogen !

.....

 

[slownickel]

The protein content is where the N comes from. The fat drives biology , where n comes from. The pH of sea shield is I believe 2 ?

Wow, not sure how fast that biology will get started up to eat oil with a pH of 2 coming from sulfuric acid. Surely there is more woojoo than we all know about though.

My woojoo meter just exploded!

 

[caterpillar710]

Well, I guess I can only speak on my crop. Starting the year, I calculated my N to my soil-less medium. I was adding SeaShield starting at 4ml per gal, all the way up to 16ml per gal after that. I apply around 1250 gal of H20 on average, so do the math. I kept it around 4-8ml per gal most of the year. After all that, I still was getting a fade on my plants, and tests show very little N.

Slownickel and a few others were just talking about how organic N doesn't show up on Spectrum.......Maybe they can elaborate?


Help EastBay out with his soil tests? I would love to hear what you think. Or at least tell me how I did, getting better yet?

Don't you think it's more accurate to say the bicarbonates and sodium in your water was pushing nitrogen away ?

Remember bud..jidoka . You must address the root cause of the problem, sea shield is actually a very powerful N source ..it is all the best cherry farmer in the world is using ...yes the world ...700+ hardness!! Game over !!! He attributed it to TONS of sea shield and biology !!!

 

[caterpillar710]

http://media.wix.com/ugd/251708_d85c4046e3ba4d9299d6f742485ea5a8.pdf

My bad it is 3-4