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Guest
in regards to side growth, my 12/12 from bagseed also is showing side growth so all seems normal...i believe the side shoots are a pre-cursor to showing sex
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gsavill90
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Hal
Hey gsavill..
Don't make the mistake of not controlling the PH. If your PH gets outa whack, it can effect the plants ability to take up various nutrients, making you think you have a nute deficiency, which you respond to by adding more of the nutrient, which then gives you a nute excess problem, all the while it was a PH problem, which was easily fixable. When you finally fix your PH problem, now you have to flush the hell out of your soil to get rid of the excess nutes that you added because you thought you had a nutrient problem.
No need to buy a fancy PH meter if you can't afford it...I just use the simple liquid drops method, its very cheap, and it works good enough. Keeps you in the ballpark anyway, much better than not knowing anything at all.
Don't make the mistake of not controlling the PH. If your PH gets outa whack, it can effect the plants ability to take up various nutrients, making you think you have a nute deficiency, which you respond to by adding more of the nutrient, which then gives you a nute excess problem, all the while it was a PH problem, which was easily fixable. When you finally fix your PH problem, now you have to flush the hell out of your soil to get rid of the excess nutes that you added because you thought you had a nutrient problem.
No need to buy a fancy PH meter if you can't afford it...I just use the simple liquid drops method, its very cheap, and it works good enough. Keeps you in the ballpark anyway, much better than not knowing anything at all.
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gsavill90
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Hal
Hey gsavill...
when you get your ph tester, you should check out the run-off water from the bottom of the pots. When you do your next watering, first make sure the water you are using is about 6.5 ph (do this initial test AFTER you have added anything to the water, like nutes etc (when I add PBP it lowers my ph into the basement...gotta use a bunch of ph up to fix it), then immediately after you water your plants, be prepared to catch some of the run-off from the bottom of the pot, and then test that for ph. This will tell you what the ph of the soil is. If your soil ph is not at the ideal 6.5, then you will need to fix it by either upping or lowering the ph of the water you use to give your plants.
Does this make any sense?
when you get your ph tester, you should check out the run-off water from the bottom of the pots. When you do your next watering, first make sure the water you are using is about 6.5 ph (do this initial test AFTER you have added anything to the water, like nutes etc (when I add PBP it lowers my ph into the basement...gotta use a bunch of ph up to fix it), then immediately after you water your plants, be prepared to catch some of the run-off from the bottom of the pot, and then test that for ph. This will tell you what the ph of the soil is. If your soil ph is not at the ideal 6.5, then you will need to fix it by either upping or lowering the ph of the water you use to give your plants.
Does this make any sense?
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gsavill90
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gsavill90
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Hal
Hey g...
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=11688
The plant will basically never show sex before the 4th internode, where the 4th set of leaves exits the main stem. If you look closely (magnifying glass helps) at this junction you will see a growth coming out of each crotch where the branch leaves the stem. This is the thing (can't remember the name...) that will develop into either the female or male sex organ. If it grows little (and I mean LITTLE) white hairs then it is a female. If it develops into a little football (american) shaped thingee, then it is a male. This football shaped thingee will eventually look like a bunch of banannas...this is where one of its nicknames comes from: nanners.
Sometimes the sex isn't apparent at the 4th internode..sometimes it won't happen until the 5th, or even 6th.
Male plants are frequently the fastest growing plants in the beginning. I think this is to position the pollen sacks higher than the female flowers to facilitate fertilization. This last grow I had going, the tallest plant I had was a northern lights...it appeared to be a female...one day shortly after showing the hairs we all look for, it started to look kinda weird. I wasn't sure why, I had already identified it as a female. It turns out that the mofo went hermie on me...it was covered in both male and female flowers. I chopped it immediately to get it the hell outa there, but it turns out a few pollen sacks had burst, and I ended up getting my Fruitbowl girl pollenated in a few places, I found about 20 seeds. Thats cool...can't wait to plant them and see what I get.
Going into all the possibilities inherent in a PH problem will take too long, here is an excellent thread here on IC, if you haven't found it already:gsavill90 said:
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=11688
gsavill90 said:
The plant will basically never show sex before the 4th internode, where the 4th set of leaves exits the main stem. If you look closely (magnifying glass helps) at this junction you will see a growth coming out of each crotch where the branch leaves the stem. This is the thing (can't remember the name...) that will develop into either the female or male sex organ. If it grows little (and I mean LITTLE) white hairs then it is a female. If it develops into a little football (american) shaped thingee, then it is a male. This football shaped thingee will eventually look like a bunch of banannas...this is where one of its nicknames comes from: nanners.
Sometimes the sex isn't apparent at the 4th internode..sometimes it won't happen until the 5th, or even 6th.
gsavill90 said:
Male plants are frequently the fastest growing plants in the beginning. I think this is to position the pollen sacks higher than the female flowers to facilitate fertilization. This last grow I had going, the tallest plant I had was a northern lights...it appeared to be a female...one day shortly after showing the hairs we all look for, it started to look kinda weird. I wasn't sure why, I had already identified it as a female. It turns out that the mofo went hermie on me...it was covered in both male and female flowers. I chopped it immediately to get it the hell outa there, but it turns out a few pollen sacks had burst, and I ended up getting my Fruitbowl girl pollenated in a few places, I found about 20 seeds. Thats cool...can't wait to plant them and see what I get.
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gsavill90
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Hal
Hey g...
Don't chop any plants until you are certain, absolutely certain, that they are male. Some plants can be very androgenous for a bit, and you aren't in any danger of pollen being released for quite some time. One thing I think I failed to mention earlier is that males typically are the first to show themselves for some reason, so take that into consideration.
Regarding the odor of Nirvana's northern lights....my grow with that strain was quite low odor, but not odor free. One of the things you have to deal with when you use Nirvana's beans is a high degree of variability of the plants you get, their beans aren't as stable in the phenotypes as the more expensive breeders beans. So the chance of getting some plants that have a stronger odor exists, but the likelihood is that your plants will fall into the category of "low odor".
This most recent grow which I am just finishing up, I grew 2 strains from a breeder named Sunshine Seeds, Fruitbowl and Haze Skunk, they were incredibly low odor, not even a whiff of cannabis when I enter my house. And I'm not using ANY odor control at all. Very, very stealth. Not to mention the quality of the smoke...check out the last few pages of the 12/12 from seed thread for some commentary on the Fruitbowl smoke.
Here is a link to the page its on...scroll down a bit:
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=51760&page=44&pp=15
Don't chop any plants until you are certain, absolutely certain, that they are male. Some plants can be very androgenous for a bit, and you aren't in any danger of pollen being released for quite some time. One thing I think I failed to mention earlier is that males typically are the first to show themselves for some reason, so take that into consideration.
Regarding the odor of Nirvana's northern lights....my grow with that strain was quite low odor, but not odor free. One of the things you have to deal with when you use Nirvana's beans is a high degree of variability of the plants you get, their beans aren't as stable in the phenotypes as the more expensive breeders beans. So the chance of getting some plants that have a stronger odor exists, but the likelihood is that your plants will fall into the category of "low odor".
This most recent grow which I am just finishing up, I grew 2 strains from a breeder named Sunshine Seeds, Fruitbowl and Haze Skunk, they were incredibly low odor, not even a whiff of cannabis when I enter my house. And I'm not using ANY odor control at all. Very, very stealth. Not to mention the quality of the smoke...check out the last few pages of the 12/12 from seed thread for some commentary on the Fruitbowl smoke.
Here is a link to the page its on...scroll down a bit:
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=51760&page=44&pp=15
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gsavill90
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Hal
Remind me what you are using for soil, and what size pot you have them growing in currently.
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gsavill90
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Hal
Your soil may be excellent...if you're compost was well composted. If you had been using the same soil as myself, I could have told you what I do. But since you are using your own home-made soil, I guess I would say this:
Because we are using the 12/12 from seed method, there isn't nearly as much vegetative growth that happens with our plants compared to those who veg their plants for a month or so. The vegetative stage of growth requires high amounts of nitrogen. When I grow using the Foxfarm Ocean Forest soil (a pre-made organic soil in a bag), I don't add any nutrients at all until about 3 weeks into the flower phase, so that would be approximately 5 to 6 weeks into the plants life. When I do start using nutes, I only use the Pure Blend Pro flowering formula for soil, which has very little nitrogen in it, mostly potassium and phosphorous.
Most new growers over-do both watering and nutrients...they basically "love their plants to death," sometimes. Regarding watering, you always want your soil to get pretty dry before you water again, and nutrients, I feel, are best used when your plant tells you it needs something. In order to do this in a somewhat educated way, you have to read up on the various nutrient deficiencies and their symptoms. That link I gave your earlier has all the info you need.
There is also a ton of great information on this site regarding soil mixes, you should read up on those also. It might give you an idea on how quality the soil you mixed up is, and what nutrients you might want to add. Here is a link:
http://www.icmag.com/ic/forumdisplay.php?f=65536
G...you oughta be hanging out in the thread we have devoted to this kind of growing, you would see what others are doing, it would be helpful. You could also be asking Atmosphere questions, and he is much more knowledgeable than myself when it comes to growing this way.
Because we are using the 12/12 from seed method, there isn't nearly as much vegetative growth that happens with our plants compared to those who veg their plants for a month or so. The vegetative stage of growth requires high amounts of nitrogen. When I grow using the Foxfarm Ocean Forest soil (a pre-made organic soil in a bag), I don't add any nutrients at all until about 3 weeks into the flower phase, so that would be approximately 5 to 6 weeks into the plants life. When I do start using nutes, I only use the Pure Blend Pro flowering formula for soil, which has very little nitrogen in it, mostly potassium and phosphorous.
Most new growers over-do both watering and nutrients...they basically "love their plants to death," sometimes. Regarding watering, you always want your soil to get pretty dry before you water again, and nutrients, I feel, are best used when your plant tells you it needs something. In order to do this in a somewhat educated way, you have to read up on the various nutrient deficiencies and their symptoms. That link I gave your earlier has all the info you need.
There is also a ton of great information on this site regarding soil mixes, you should read up on those also. It might give you an idea on how quality the soil you mixed up is, and what nutrients you might want to add. Here is a link:
http://www.icmag.com/ic/forumdisplay.php?f=65536
G...you oughta be hanging out in the thread we have devoted to this kind of growing, you would see what others are doing, it would be helpful. You could also be asking Atmosphere questions, and he is much more knowledgeable than myself when it comes to growing this way.
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Hal
Oh, yeah, regarding transplanting into a large container...I think that would be a good thing to do, anytime you give the roots more soil to make their home in it is a good thing.
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gsavill90
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Hal
Hey g...
No worries...thats just the droopy pheno of northern lights.
j/k
not really sure what the problem is...maybe just hasn't recovered yet? Are its leaves turning yellow? If so, that can indicate a nitrogen deficiency (most common) or an iron deficiency (not very common). Then again, if you have a ph problem.....it might just be that. You better go out and get you a tester.
No worries...thats just the droopy pheno of northern lights.
j/k
not really sure what the problem is...maybe just hasn't recovered yet? Are its leaves turning yellow? If so, that can indicate a nitrogen deficiency (most common) or an iron deficiency (not very common). Then again, if you have a ph problem.....it might just be that. You better go out and get you a tester.
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gsavill90
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