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1 week old seedlings turning yellow

C6H6

Member
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#1 Haze X Skunk1

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#2 Mandala satori

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#3 Mandala satori

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#4 White widow

well in comparison they are looking much much healthier, just goes to show what a little bit of patients can do. one thing that i have seen is that on both the satori the stems on the leafs look ever so slightly purple, i think this is normal and the only other purpling i've run across while searching other posting is on the leafs, which is not present on my plants.
if you look at the 2nd picture of the satori you will see on lower most leaf a small brown dot i tried to photograph it as best i could using what i got but it didn’t show up as well as I would have liked. i im pretty sure its nothing because it only present on that one leaf and it hasn’t grown at all so im not gonna sweat it for now.
The Haze X Skunk has really impressed me, after having a set of leafs fried because they were too close to the lights it has recovered amazingly. Im my opinion this plant has shown the most improvement from where it started, and it was one of the free seed I got from SB.
i am wondering when i can start flowering them so i can determine sex i did after all want to do a 12/12 from seed but alas that didn't work out. Should I give them a couple more weeks or start now? The reason im asking is because space is a bit of a concern so I’d like to keep that plants as small as possible. Also what are some signs I should look for when the plants are ready to start being fertilized?
anyway comments suggestions, thought would be appreciated.
 

MynameStitch

Dr. Doolittle
Mentor
Veteran
With them being hungry now, I would feed as normal and worry about anything else later, as since it's deficient now they will be showing some problems.


I would first make sure they are not hungry before putting them into flowering. This will ensure a healthy flower start for them.

They are hungry now, you can start to feed them now.
Just use a small dose.
Which nutrients are you going to use?
 

C6H6

Member
i have an organic brand called age old, i have their bloom (8-10-3), grow(12-6-6) and kelp (.3-.25-.15) i also have a small thing of superthrive.
 

MynameStitch

Dr. Doolittle
Mentor
Veteran
I would only use 1 drop per gallon if you use superthrive, use no more!

Use the grow fert, but what does the directions say on the back?
Do not use the amount but I need to know what it says.
 

C6H6

Member
it sez that for indoor plants to use 1 teaspoon per on gallon of water each time i water the plant.
 
C6H6 when should i start feeding said:
C6H6 have you decided to veg some?
I wasn't sure if Stitch remembered this info. It might make a difference in what she suggest you fertilizing with. I personally wouldn't use any superthrive in bloom. I might use it a couple of times in early veg with my clones but not much. check out microyzhea(not sure of spelling). sprinkle some of them on your roots when you transplant.

peace
 
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C6H6

Member
to tell you the truth im not even sure what im gonna do, i have spring break comming up in 2 weeks and an ass load of tests before so im just gonna continue to do what im doing untill after spring break then go from there. try to make the work load as light as possiable before my week long testing. the real determining factor is how big the plants get in the next couple of weeks, i need as small of plants as i can manage
 
C6H6 said:
to tell you the truth im not even sure what im gonna do, i have spring break comming up in 2 weeks and an ass load of tests before so im just gonna continue to do what im doing untill after spring break then go from there. try to make the work load as light as possiable before my week long testing. the real determining factor is how big the plants get in the next couple of weeks, i need as small of plants as i can manage
So does this mean your lights are on 12/12, 24/0, 18/6? I thought 12/12 from seed was exactly that 12/12 from seed with no veg time at all.

peace
 

C6H6

Member
rite now their on 18/6 because of the problems i had from the beginning.
originally they were on a 12/12 but it was recommended that i go to an 18/6 cycle untill they recovered. so im just wondering it more 18/6 will be benificial so they can get back to 100% or if it would be ok to switch them to 12/12
 

sirgrassalot

Domesticator of Cannabis
Veteran
I think you'd want them 100% going into bloom. Now do you have space & time for a larger plant is the question. You can take clones when they're larger & if you have female or males you'll have some more very ready girls to grow (label them). You'll be able to maximize your grow area if you have the space. You just need a florescent to do a few clones as your lighting. I don't get much if any smell from smaller plants in Veg if that's an issue.
 
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C6H6 said:
rite now their on 18/6 because of the problems i had from the beginning.
originally they were on a 12/12 but it was recommended that i go to an 18/6 cycle untill they recovered. so im just wondering it more 18/6 will be benificial so they can get back to 100% or if it would be ok to switch them to 12/12
It depends on how much room you have to go upwards. To be safe leave them enough space to double in height from the strectch in the first two weeks of flower. If plants seem to be stretching too much and you are going to run out of room you could always super crop (twist the stems near the top in your fingers not breaking them but making them limp over) it will allow your lower branches to catch up to the tops. You'll need more lateral room for the plant if you super crop but you will end up with more top buds. It may help you use your space more efficiently. You may end up with a couple males so you could fill in their space by super cropping your females.
 

MynameStitch

Dr. Doolittle
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You don't want to put them into bloom when they are recovering, that is bad advice flat out.

You put them into flowering when they are still recovering, not only will you stress them out, but your yield can be lowered. When they stretch in flowering you want that stretch to help there growth, or you can use something like bushmaster to stop it and cause them to bush out, but if you do that you have to have a lot of side lighting to benefit from it.
 

sirgrassalot

Domesticator of Cannabis
Veteran
MynameStitch said:
You don't want to put them into bloom when they are recovering, that is bad advice flat out.

You put them into flowering when they are still recovering, not only will you stress them out, but your yield can be lowered. When they stretch in flowering you want that stretch to help there growth, or you can use something like bushmaster to stop it and cause them to bush out, but if you do that you have to have a lot of side lighting to benefit from it.

I agree with sirgrassalot.
 

C6H6

Member
would another option to limit height be LST or a Screen of green? how ecciftive would either of those be in limiting height.

EDIT: i dont know if i mentioned it at all but i have two cabinits, one from veg one for flowering. the dimentions of each are 32in high, by 24 inches wide and 12 inches deep. both of them are powered by CLF. i am woking on a tempotary "tent" setup just incase the plants do out grow the cabinits only hang up i have is incorporating it into the carbon filter system i have setup already.
 
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sirgrassalot

Domesticator of Cannabis
Veteran
Those are both options. I pinch, LST & top once occasionally. Once you pinch you can LST the other branches where you want them to allow more light to get to the centre of the plant filling it out. I've done all 3 to some plants. I've never used a screen I like to be able to pull the plants out easily as they're different ages. Remember when you stick a Vegged plant in 12/12 they can double there size.
 

MynameStitch

Dr. Doolittle
Mentor
Veteran
You can do that, or you can top them soon and let the lower branches catch up and tie them down to keep a bushy state to the plant.
 

C6H6

Member
i feel as though im overwatering the plants again. the last three days the containers have felt really light and ive confirmed this by sticking my fingers in the soil and sure enough its dry. and in the last three days despite the fact that ive watered every day the plants are showing no signs at all of overwatering. They are however showing signs of N deficiency, yellowing lower leafs, red stems and even a little red on the leafs themselves. ive been watering with a 1/2 strength mixture of the age old grow but im not sure if i should be watering like the back of the bottle sez with every watering (which is what ive been doing). So with that…
Should i alternate, feeding, plain water, feeding, plain water?
am i overwatering watering every day despite the containers feeling light?
and what should i do about the N deficiency, continue what im doing for another week or so and see what happens or is there something more i should/could bo doing?
 
If you really have to water everyday it could be time for a transplant but I thought you already have your plants in pots larger than the dixie cups.

When you water are you sure your soil is holding the water or could it be shedding it off the sides and out the holes and draining before much water can be absorbed? Do you pick your pots up after you water to make sure they absorbed or do you just pour water in your cup/pots? do you scratch the surface of your soil before every watering? that will help prevent the water being shed off to the sides. I even stick my finger through the root mass on my bigger plants to make sure water is gettingh to the center of the pot.
 
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C6H6

Member
dontlockmeup said:
If you really have to water everyday it could be time for a transplant but I thought you already have your plants in pots larger than the dixie cups.

When you water are you sure your soil is holding the water or could it be shedding it off the sides and out the holes and draining before much water can be absorbed? Do you pick your pots up after you water to make sure they absorbed or do you just pour water in your cup/pots? do you scratch the surface of your soil before every watering? that will help prevent the water being shed off to the sides. I even stick my finger through the root mass on my bigger plants to make sure water is gettingh to the center of the pot.
heres how ive been watering, i dig out a little hole around the stem, pore water in let it soak then pore a little more in, let it soak, and repeate the process untill i have just a couple drips of water come out . im sure the pot is holding the water, because i can feel a difference in weight.
i only transplanted two plants still got two in dixie cups. if the plants were to become root bound, i think thats the term, would that inhibit growth? thought i think this time it has to do with the lack of N.
 
Sounds like you are watering ok. I hope you weren't offended by the ?'s just asking cuz u r a noob. I don't know anything about the type of soil you are using, but if things were looking better with plain water and now after ferts. they go sour hmmm, I'd go back to plain water. Wait for Stitch to get back to you. she can help you better than I.

peace
 
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