There is a local supplier out here in the PNW that bags for "wiggle worm" the stuff is more sand than EWC.
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Yellowing is not neccessarily a lack of N.
- Thread starter MrFista
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EatMoGrass
Member
I have been using Wiggle Worm brand castings made here in Wisco for over 10 years now. It may not be a good as my own worm castings but at only $17 for a 30# bag I use plenty of the stuff. Just this year I have used over 250lbs of the stuff inside and out.
Also earlier this year I believe they may have changed how they harvest or some other procedure. Begining this May the castings seemed better than I have ever seen over the last ten years using thier product. Basicly they just seemed as if they were screened better but may have actually had more live baby worms/cocoons. Maybe just fresher?
Anyways their castings may not be the best out there but the Wisco made stuff is definatly worth the 60cents a lb.
Also earlier this year I believe they may have changed how they harvest or some other procedure. Begining this May the castings seemed better than I have ever seen over the last ten years using thier product. Basicly they just seemed as if they were screened better but may have actually had more live baby worms/cocoons. Maybe just fresher?
Anyways their castings may not be the best out there but the Wisco made stuff is definatly worth the 60cents a lb.
When I was buying my supplies the farm supply store guy told me their distributor was going out of business. I ended up at the disturber's/farmer's place and his wife told me he was giving it up do to disabilities and wiggle worm was looking for another local worm farmer.( Northern lower MI.) I have nothing to compare to but ours usually seem nice, no sand that I have noticed........scrappy
EatMoGrass
Member
Growing Power is building a urban farm here in town and I am looking forward to trying out Will Allen's castings/compost he makes. The guy actually heats his aquaponics greenhouses in Milwaukee with 140 degree compost. We get pretty nasty winters up here and it amazes me that compost can actually heat a greenhouse enough to farm during a nasty Wisconsin winter!
420GreenMan
Member
for a very informative read. 
Rolling beds! Kinda like rolling chicken yards? I never actually worked it out but the bins I used indoors seemed about minimum(?) critical mass and worked well mushrooms, bugs n' all and off the top of my head after a bottle of wine, measured about 36 by 16 inches by 18 inches deep/ 8 plants(?). I believe the depth is quite important. Spurr?
What?
I was reminded of our MMJ community's desire to have quality weed, but many folk with disabilities etc. How can a no till thing be done in a manner people could manage?
Rolling beds solve a few space problems as one pathway in a row of beds will service each bed as you roll it over making the pathway for the next. So it should not only be a better method for a microherd, but add to harvest considerably if done correctly. Pathing typically takes 1/3rd of a room. Not any more.
I think rolling beds with critical mass soil, scrog screens, no till, mulching, and using paths as above described could outyield pretty much everything in multiple light rooms. Add some light movers and damn if you aint getting seriously efficient.
I'll just leave those comments there for contemplation.
Rolling beds solve a few space problems as one pathway in a row of beds will service each bed as you roll it over making the pathway for the next. So it should not only be a better method for a microherd, but add to harvest considerably if done correctly. Pathing typically takes 1/3rd of a room. Not any more.
I think rolling beds with critical mass soil, scrog screens, no till, mulching, and using paths as above described could outyield pretty much everything in multiple light rooms. Add some light movers and damn if you aint getting seriously efficient.
I'll just leave those comments there for contemplation.
Here is a G.N. Hindu Kush that shows some senescence. This strain does it regularly , at least when I grow it. This plant would have actually gone another week or so if I had the time.
Thanks Capt Ahab. Bet she smoked well.
My girls still look overfed on top, hungry on the bottom, and inbetween, it's inbetween. One week to go plenty of secondary bud growth there's no starvation going on. There is some fucking aphids! Lucky I only got a week to go. Curtailed the worst of it, no worries mate.
Outside there is 6 colours of aphids I found on one pass of the garden. When plants get past their prime the ethylene must get the ants attention cos they come running carrying aphids with them. I wonder if they match species to plant!!? They always bring green one's to cannabis and tomatoes...
I'm going to test the N species in my soil on harvest day just before I cut so I know what's there at the end of two full runs. Then I'll be testing a couple times in the third run too, perhaps more runs after that. I'd like to know if my N's getting fixed or dwindling slowly. To remove the possibility of results being swayed by N cycling in response to the plant's veg/flower cycle I'll test at the same times (2 weeks flower and 8 weeks flower) for every run.
My girls still look overfed on top, hungry on the bottom, and inbetween, it's inbetween. One week to go plenty of secondary bud growth there's no starvation going on. There is some fucking aphids! Lucky I only got a week to go. Curtailed the worst of it, no worries mate.
Outside there is 6 colours of aphids I found on one pass of the garden. When plants get past their prime the ethylene must get the ants attention cos they come running carrying aphids with them. I wonder if they match species to plant!!? They always bring green one's to cannabis and tomatoes...
I'm going to test the N species in my soil on harvest day just before I cut so I know what's there at the end of two full runs. Then I'll be testing a couple times in the third run too, perhaps more runs after that. I'd like to know if my N's getting fixed or dwindling slowly. To remove the possibility of results being swayed by N cycling in response to the plant's veg/flower cycle I'll test at the same times (2 weeks flower and 8 weeks flower) for every run.
Senescence is Senescence imo. I can drive around a field of thousands of vines of the same variety. Just before harvest or slightly afterward I can see signs of Senescence on some vines and not others. It's never effected crop or harvest. The following year it can or will be completely different vines showing these signs.
If you figure it out, let me know. I haven't been able to do so in over 40 years.
If you figure it out, let me know. I haven't been able to do so in over 40 years.
I think attitude has a lot to do with finding answers. Read a few posts of yours sounds like you've resigned every idea as idiocy already. Just when one is about to throw in the towel is usually also just before the breakthrough happens. Too many snake oil salesmen out there though, I'd be pissed if I spent my career listening to 'farm advisers' too.
Have you charred your shelter belts and then amended them and put it out under the vines? Free resource worth trying the science is coming in with good results in many circumstances. Water retention will be an immediate benefit even if you think the increased microherd increased P uptake and less nutrient requirements is rubbish.
When I'm sick of the game I either change the rules or find a new game.
Have you charred your shelter belts and then amended them and put it out under the vines? Free resource worth trying the science is coming in with good results in many circumstances. Water retention will be an immediate benefit even if you think the increased microherd increased P uptake and less nutrient requirements is rubbish.
When I'm sick of the game I either change the rules or find a new game.
The conversion of urea to ammonia through contact with water..
????. WTF? you talking to me? LOL (what is a shelter belt?)
I have spent years trying to deal with and understand Senescence. However, over decades of changing water/fertilizer regimens, I've noticed that it wasn't worth dealing with as it never affected crop size or quality and it was a natural occurrence.
And BTW - it works the other way around. Over the decades, farm advisors and UC Davis researchers come to me to see how I am dealing with problems from dormancy, leafing, fruit coloring, irrigation and more. They have written accepted scientific articles for publication with my techniques and knowledge. I am in the credits of the article.
Sorry Grapeman - too stoned and mixed you up with another member with similar colored avatar.. good advice anyway hehe.
Shelter belts are probably called windbreaks in US - not sure. Fast growing trees like poplars are cheap and easy. Cut 1 m poles from existing trees, put in bath of willow tree water for a few days. Crowbar to make a hole, and plant. Within a few years a large resource of char will be available every year from these trees.
Ah yes senescence. Im not trying to deal with it, I understand it as well as the next scientist (in training) in so far as light activates hormones which activate transcription factors causing a kinase cascade etc etc bla bla. I'm trying to break the stupid myth that senescence is a sign of a lack of N. It plainly is not.
Nice to hear farm advisors listen to you, over here for the most part they are feckless useless overqualified fertiliser salespeople - thieves morons cowards and mongrels - that's the good one's. Most accepted scientific papers on farming are all about how to apply ferts in greater detail. How to increase harvest index with stupid new seeds that are dependant on stupid new products. New poisons for pests, fungicides, herbicides. Expensive unneccesary horseshit. We've lost our way in the fields and nobody has the balls to admit we're a pack of idiots.
That's my mild and edited opinion of soil science today.
Shelter belts are probably called windbreaks in US - not sure. Fast growing trees like poplars are cheap and easy. Cut 1 m poles from existing trees, put in bath of willow tree water for a few days. Crowbar to make a hole, and plant. Within a few years a large resource of char will be available every year from these trees.
Ah yes senescence. Im not trying to deal with it, I understand it as well as the next scientist (in training) in so far as light activates hormones which activate transcription factors causing a kinase cascade etc etc bla bla. I'm trying to break the stupid myth that senescence is a sign of a lack of N. It plainly is not.
Nice to hear farm advisors listen to you, over here for the most part they are feckless useless overqualified fertiliser salespeople - thieves morons cowards and mongrels - that's the good one's. Most accepted scientific papers on farming are all about how to apply ferts in greater detail. How to increase harvest index with stupid new seeds that are dependant on stupid new products. New poisons for pests, fungicides, herbicides. Expensive unneccesary horseshit. We've lost our way in the fields and nobody has the balls to admit we're a pack of idiots.
That's my mild and edited opinion of soil science today.
Heres a plant that refuses to green up after my normal mix(fish, sea kelp and DG Pro tekt) so everyone who see's it calls it an N deficiency and say i should hop on it with some more nutes. i think shes doing wonderful and she's just gonna be an early finisher. I never look at yellowing in flower as a bad thing, i just think the plants use up their energy reserves they've built for themselves.
You can see the plant next to is dark green and is the same age just the sativa leaning pheno of Ultra Sonja(cheese x tang-tang=blockhead sativa male). Their at about 4/5weeks(?). The sativa takes it all in and the Bubba kush which isnt pictured would burn even if i gave it a drop of my mix..
You can see the plant next to is dark green and is the same age just the sativa leaning pheno of Ultra Sonja(cheese x tang-tang=blockhead sativa male). Their at about 4/5weeks(?). The sativa takes it all in and the Bubba kush which isnt pictured would burn even if i gave it a drop of my mix..
Hey BB,long time no see. I'd say at that point they wouldn't green back up unless you spray painted them. One thing I do when I spot a pre-mature yellower is topdress with a generous amount of a EWC/compost mix. They usually pull through and put some green back in the leaves if it's not too far into flower. Then again type depending has a play in it as well. Sometimes I'll have yellowing plants that are pretty much just rootbound. Either way if you have a decent mix a few plants that yellow out don't mean much when you grow your own smoke and aren't trying to op out a house.
So many varieties of senescence. Different colours, levels of severity and times of onset. The plant may use senescence for many metabolic activities, which would correspond to the plants needs. I think it may be a last minute fine tuning of nutrient delivery for seed production. The removal of N from leaves possibly corresponds to the level of abatement in N channels in the rhizosphere. So adding N would be a waste of time, it's in the soil just not taken up.
In that case - yellowing is a lack of N - not in the soil - in the plant.
But I suspect the elements being harvested are micronutrients and N comes with them - so - the plant turns down the N channels in the rhizosphere as it is stripping Fe or similar from leaves which happens to have a lot of N as a byproduct. While senescing and distributing nutes a lot of spare carbs will also become available to trade with fungi for increased P. Senescence may be the visible symptom of efficiencies in play and slowed N channels merely symptomatic of that. Needs and supplies change and so do delivery systems to accomodate.
Differing levels of senescence denote differing levels of use of leaf compounds. Differing colours denote different compounds being used in the leaves (and we see what's left behind). I have less senescence this 2nd run, less? Even I'm surprised.
I might be 40 years trying to get it too.
In that case - yellowing is a lack of N - not in the soil - in the plant.
But I suspect the elements being harvested are micronutrients and N comes with them - so - the plant turns down the N channels in the rhizosphere as it is stripping Fe or similar from leaves which happens to have a lot of N as a byproduct. While senescing and distributing nutes a lot of spare carbs will also become available to trade with fungi for increased P. Senescence may be the visible symptom of efficiencies in play and slowed N channels merely symptomatic of that. Needs and supplies change and so do delivery systems to accomodate.
Differing levels of senescence denote differing levels of use of leaf compounds. Differing colours denote different compounds being used in the leaves (and we see what's left behind). I have less senescence this 2nd run, less? Even I'm surprised.
I might be 40 years trying to get it too.
Hey Capt. I've just been busy working and getting my grow to where i want it. I keep on moving up. I'm about to split my flower room in two. A 70w HPS for early flowering and a 150w for later flowering. I'll use my 150w CMH for veg/mothers in a rubbermaid 30gal and PL-L's for clones in my computer.
This is my first time with this girl, i tried foliar feeding twice and gave her 3 teas so far. One feeding and one foliar before any yellowing even started. I have a clone of her so i'll know in advance next time to bump them up stronger to see if it changes. This was the end of my soil mix so i think its running low on calcium and nitrogen. My soil texture is much more sandy now than the clay loam i had established before.
Quick question for ya though. What did you hit your "The Black" with? I grew out three seeds so far and this was my best male, reminds me of my Jamaicans. Has great structure especially bud structure with super vigor and fast flowering...
