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Yayyy! My first colloidal silver generator (photo)

K3 4 Eva

New member
Hi PhenoMenal,

first of all: brilliant thread! I'm defenitly trying this technique this outdoor season! and I shall post a photo-grow-log..

But there is one thing that isn't fully clair for me. I know that you have to select a strong, stress-resistant plant in order to avoid hermi's. And I also now how you can stress plants, but now my question is:

how hard and how long do you stress?
and aren't there more strains that do get hermi under light stress etc. than the ones that don't?

Looking forward to hearing from you!
 

nimbin1

Member
hi everyone just a quick question, i have heard alot of people say that you cant just keep feming seeds, that you have to have a few ''normal'' males to breed back to. my question is, why is this? my understanding is that since you are not recombining genes, you are only duplicating them by self pollination, its kinda like a form of pseudo cloning. so why couldn't you just keep reverting the odd one back to make more fem seed? someone care to enlighten me?.
 

Snoopster

Active member
Veteran
Big Respect for this thread.


I am on day 24 of my new fem experiment:
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=237316


I am using Tiresias Mist. It was $20 on ebay shipped. It is very expensive but for me worth it if it works. After 22 days, I am confident it will work. I will not be able to give it my full endorsement until I see fat seeds in buds.

1323575137637855555077.png



Save the auto-flower hate for your sister. I grow non-auto for myself, the auto is just something on the side. I have a few friends/relatives that will grow auto/fem seeds because they are so easy. They would not grow otherwise. Also, properly grown auto with good dna can be good. It has a different CBD profile from the ruderalis and will effect you differently. Don't be provincial, if I smoked you up with my friend's auto super lemon haze, you would like it.


/rant
 
G

guest3871

Hello all, i was just hoping for some input, i haven't read the whole thread.

I started using some CS on a small plant that had just started growing pistils.

I have been spraying once a day for about 2 weeks. The plant has small buds on it now, but the pistils have gone brown, and it looks a bit gnarly, but still healthy.
It seems to have just stopped flowering though, no new pistils are emerging.

I am wondering if this is what should be happening? Should it kind of stop producing pistils totally, and then start sprouting male flowers from that point on? Sort of like a clear line where the female flowers stop and male flowers start?

Thanks.
 

sv4run

Member
...
I am wondering if this is what should be happening? Should it kind of stop producing pistils totally, and then start sprouting male flowers from that point on? Sort of like a clear line where the female flowers stop and male flowers start?

Thanks.

Yep, reverse process started.
 
G

guest3871

Thanks sv4run :)

Should i keep spraying it, or just leave it alone?

I should have mentioned that it seems to have stopped growing alltogether rather than flowering. Is that normal, before the male flowers appear?
 

PhenoMenal

Hairdresser
Veteran
drcorndog,
Yes keep spraying (a partial reverse usually isn't successful!). You can just manually open 1 ball every couple of days or so to see how the general progress is going in regards to pollen production

jump117,
Very interesting data and pics there - it's people like you with contributions like that that have helped make this thread into what it is today. :)
There are sooo many sites that say colloidal silver is photosensitive, but I can understand why there is so much confusion about that, being silver and all - a primary element in non-digital photography.
At the end of the day though even if I've been incorrect in saying that colloidal silver is photosensitive there's been no harm from that, as if what you say is true then having people store their CS in a light-proof container would be exactly the same as storing it in a non-lightproof container :)
 
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G

guest3871

Thanks PhenoMenal, i will keep doing it.

I am just curious if it is normal that the plant seems to have stalled or stopped for the last couple of days?

I can't see any balls or new pistils.
 

DIDM

Malaika
Veteran
to each their own


I'm a natural kind of guy, and I actually like using males as ornamentals, then hitting new things with them
 

Snoopster

Active member
Veteran
Is there a way to let the water dissolve so the ppm is higher?
Would heating the solution to encourage evaporation hurt it?
 

PhenoMenal

Hairdresser
Veteran
DIDM
Congratulations ... we're all grateful for your lack of contribution to this thread by basically just telling us "i dont use CS"! You rock bro, keep the contributions coming! :)

Snoopster
I'm not sure, but very AWESOME questions bro!!! :) Answering them could provide some very nice shortcuts for CS users :)
K+
 

Linux

Member
Hey PhenoMenal I have read a lot in this excellent thread you have made and about colloidal silver. I even made my own batch around of 10-12 ppm so that I can even drink it (which I DID & it helped me many times when I get a small flu! FUCK THE MEDICAL INDUSTRY.)

The only problem I have now is that I am trying all my best and hope to get feminized seeds from my Dutch Passion Auto Blueberry. I bought 2 feminized seeds and was only able to germinate 1 since I somehow lost the other one (I know I'm stupid for not knowing how I lost the other seed).

My blueberry is already around 40 days old from seed till now and I have just started spraying it on the bottom branches/buds/leaves with CS 21 ppm for the last week with no results at all. All I saw is that the white hairs on the bud died on the first spray and the leaves are slowing dying or so in somewhat way.

I know I'm spraying CS a bit too late since your suppose to apply CS before 12/12 light change but I thought it was possible even after 4 weeks when it flowers.
MY CS solution is dark brown or high grey color all the time (which is bad I know, yellow is the color we are looking for.)

I use a DC 12volt 1.1amp charger, distilled water and 99.99% pure silver. Whats very strange is that every time when I make CS it will NEVER EVER go above 21 PPM (WHICH IS PISSING ME OFF!!!)

I have been experimenting this like hell. I JUST found out recently that I'm ONLY able to reach 21ppm in around 35mins with yellow color (with every 6-8mins I would clean the silver rods.)

Here is the stupid crazy part: IF and ONLY IF I LET IT SIT THERE ANY LONGER (even cleaning the silver rods after few mins) JUST AFTER IT TURNED 21ppm (yellow color!) the CS solution would either turn brown or grey and the ppm DROPS DOWN!!! This is driving me nuts and I am going crazy. I can not go above 21PPM!!! EVEN IF I LET IT SIT THERE FOR FREAKING 2 DAYS AND A HALF, its still around 21ppm!!!

I also have Bid Bud#1 which is in it's 2nd week in flowering and I have been spraying it with my 21ppm brown/grey CS solution for the last week with no results. [EDIT] (I just found out that my big bud #1 is a full blown male, no wonder CS didn't work for him.)

***So PhenoMenal my retarded question to you sir is that, should I try making a last GOOD RIGHT batch of CS solution (yellow color) 21ppm and spray it to my blueberry/bigbud? Is it worth it? Will I see any results? Is their anyway I can obtain 30ppm or above? Am I doing something wrong here?
And also one more thing which can be off topic, can I use Gilberic Acid solution and spray the button branches and by spraying GA on the bottom branches would it some how affect the top buds? Because I am trying to get male pollen on the bottom branch buds and make seeds on the top branch buds. (Self Pollinating)

P.S- I have been spraying my Dutch Passion Auto Blueberry & Big Bud#1 with brown/grey color CS solution all the time, NOT with the yellow color CS 21ppm. I'm kinda giving up on CS and I just ordered 2grams of Gilberic Acid for $10 on Ebay and I found out that Gilberic Acid is obtained in ORGANIC/NATURAL form thus it is not TOXIC.

I'm really desperate and I don't want to buy another god damn expensive ass seeds which costs my arms and legs and the all risks of mailing and shipping of seeds. AND I DON'T KNOW ANYONE WHO GROWS MJ here. I'm like an outcast here with no physical/knowledgeable help. Thank god we have the internet, Google, and the helpers from ICMAG!

I Just want to say THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR ALL YOUR HELP and TIME YOU HAVE DONE FOR US Mr.PhenoMenal your the MAN!!!
 
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nimbin1

Member
hi everyone just a quick question, i have heard alot of people say that you cant just keep feming seeds, that you have to have a few ''normal'' males to breed back to. my question is, why is this? my understanding is that since you are not recombining genes, you are only duplicating them by self pollination, its kinda like a form of pseudo cloning. so why couldn't you just keep reverting the odd one back to make more fem seed? someone care to enlighten me?.
anyone? come on guys, someone must know.
:plant grow:
 

PhenoMenal

Hairdresser
Veteran
nimbin, it's a genetics question which is beyond my realm of knowledge so I can't give you an answer sorry, but I don't see any reason or anything wrong with constantly reversing and selfing a single female - the resulting beans always seem to turn out quite consistant.
 

Linux

Member
Hey nimbin1 it is said to be that if you keep getting fem seeds from the same generation and producing more fem seeds from generation to generation with its own gene, it's potency will degrade in some what way by time. That is why it is recommend to breed the natural way after a while. You will never ever find a FEMINIZED clone from a FEMINIZED mother that's more than 5 years old.

Here's what "DocLeaf" said on [5-07-2010] in one of the threads:

"To add... we've never seen a feminized clone (cutting from feminized seed stock) over 5 years old, if anyone has a photo out there, then please throw it up!

Even if it's a clone of a clone, or clone of a clone of a clone that's feminized, we've NEVER seen one!

Overall, stay away from feminized stock unless you only plan to grow it and smoke it (like we would cucumbers, or any other fem. seeds), then they are fine.

Otherwise these seeds are NOT ideal for as breeding stock,, in standard practise,, (we are experimenting here,, and sure wouldn't encourage other ppl to cross fem. seeds into regular seed lines for the fun of it!)... just like we wouldnt auto-flowerring stock! its a non-brainer!

stick to normal / regular seeds for breeding with IMO... it's better in the long run for every grower that grows those seeds in the future, far fewer complications

Peace n love"

This tread can be found here: http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=172277

I hope that answers your question nimbin1.
 

nimbin1

Member
thanks guys for the reply. i thought that it would be ok, just like taking a cutting of a cutting of a cutting. linux, i think that there isn't any pics of fem lines over five years old because they havn't been around for that long.i have a dp mazar reg that is 11years old and its been reveged from flower about ten times and has been clone to mother just as many times. has not missed a beat still the same yeilds and bud density as 11 years ago.
 
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