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Yayyy! My first colloidal silver generator (photo)

NPK

Active member
I grew some Atomic Northern Lights clones outdoors this season, one of which I sprayed regularly for the first several days of veg; after that I fell off on the spraying. I lost track of which clone I'd sprayed and never saw any reversed flowers on any of the plants, so I figured I just didn't hit the thing for long enough and that I wouldn't be getting any pollen this time.


Well, mystery solved as to which clone I sprayed, because one of the plants is heavily seeded. This is what I've gotten off just a few branches.

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jump117

Well-known member
Veteran
(...)
Solutions with the same concentration of ions can look very different.
Depending on the size of the colloidal particles and their concentrations, it can be a clear colorless water, yellow, pink, purple opalescent solution, or muddy color suspension, not sinking to the bottom in three months.

TDS meter evaluates the quality of the resulting solution objectively, and appearance is deceptive.

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High Country

Give me a Kenworth truck, an 18 speed box and I'll
Veteran
Agree, and the strongest from above is clear #8 with ppm 62.

Agree, generally after my batches were cooked over night they are clear with a pronounced grey tinge.

They go a bit darker when

ALL THIS SHIT FALLS OFF

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It's a great method and must do more experiments.

First go...viable feminised seed.

Some very smart people here.
 

jump117

Well-known member
Veteran
You may detect the presence of Ag+ ions by adding some salt.
Ag+ ions catches Cl- ions from salt and forms insoluble AgCl visible as a milk.
That’s why Cl is not wanted in CS, it desactivates Ag+ ions.

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High Country

Give me a Kenworth truck, an 18 speed box and I'll
Veteran
Amazing what self taught botanists...horticulturalists...gardeners can do.
 

jump117

Well-known member
Veteran
They go a bit darker when
ALL THIS SHIT FALLS OFF

This optical effect arises from the dark sediment on the bottom.

If you carefully pour the solution into a clean bottle, you will see that it is not darkened.

Large silver particles create black and bluish color, they sink to the bottom over time,
leaving a transparent ion solution.

Some silver salts are light-sensitive, but not ionic-colloidal silver.
The color of ionic-colloidal silver solution is not changed in the light and it does not darken with time.
 

NPK

Active member
I'm curious: has anyone else gotten seeds without the intermediate steps of collecting and applying pollen? The Northern Lights clone I sprayed prior to flipping put out hundreds of seeds, as did a Super Silver Haze clone. I didn't have to collect any pollen to get this result. Anyone else?
 

lucky_luke

New member
Have anyone tried using demineralized (purified or deionized) water? Will it be worse than distilled one for CS production purposes?
 

OmeJozzie

New member
@NPK, I've been shaking the male over the females and even smeared it in/on each other with great results. At another try, i've just put the male in front of a fan. Still have to harvest that bunch, but it's looking good.

@Lucky Luke, I only use Demi-Water and getting good results.
 

NPK

Active member
OmeJozzie, nice! Yeah, the first time I did this I crossed two different strains, too. But this run I found, quite by accident, that you can get a shitload of S1s simply by spraying for the first several days of flowering. I didn't have to gather a single grain of pollen but still ended up with lots of heavily seeded bud. It couldn't have been easier. Going to try again with clones off the Jackberries I'm growing now and see if I get the same result.
 

lucky_luke

New member
@Lucky Luke, I only use Demi-Water and getting good results.
Thanks, I've heard opinion that demineralized water is a bit less clean than distilled one, but if it works good I will stay with it.

But this run I found, quite by accident, that you can get a shitload of S1s simply by spraying for the first several days of flowering. I didn't have to gather a single grain of pollen but still ended up with lots of heavily seeded bud. It couldn't have been easier.

That idea sounds awesome. I'll for sure try that method in the summer - put one female clone outdoors and CS it when its on flowering stage, far away from my indoor plants.
 

jump117

Well-known member
Veteran
get a shitload of S1s simply by spraying for the first several days of flowering.
Hey NPK!
Explain please, you begin to spray when the first pistils have formed, or before?
You sprayed the entire plant or only a few branches?
How many times have you sprayed? :thank you:
 

PhenoMenal

Hairdresser
Veteran
Just short of 1000 replies to this thread now, and new ideas and excellent experimental results continue to pop up on a monthly basis providing us all with even more important data about how to successfully go about this (jump117's recent posts are a good example!) ... the art is in constant refinement, and we're clearly heading in the right direction as the results speak for themselves :)
 

NPK

Active member
Hiya Jump. To be clear, I actually followed protocol and started spraying as soon as I got the clones, once daily for around two weeks during veg. I continued after I noticed pistils forming, but, in a dumbo stoner move, lost the plant tags a few days after I put the kids outside, so I stopped then. I know I sprayed for less than two weeks into flowering, though, and possibly even less than ONE week. I followed protocol (once daily for two weeks before flowering) until the identifying tags went incognito.

I kept an eye on everything but never saw any male flowers form, so I figured I'd fucked up, or that my CS solution wasn't adequate, or that maybe the strains were uncooperative. Flowered out the plants as usual and only noticed that they were seeded when I started harvesting. It was true of the Northern Lights and SSH both, leading me to think "there's something to this." Happy ending, especially with the super-fruity SSH!
 

OmeJozzie

New member
My experience so far is that I buy 5 female seeds from a good seed-house and grow them until they are ready for the lights to go 12/12.
Then I make 250mL of CS and spray 1 plant once a day, every day.
I keep doing so untill I see male flowers forming, around this time I usualy start to run out of CS.
Then I just keep my plants happy with light (Fluorescent tubes) and some water with food and PK13/14.
When I notice the male is starting to open up some flowers, I take the male and shake it over the females and sometimes even rub them together every day, just before watering. (Most plants can take quite a beating at this stage).
I also keep a small pc-fan pointed at the male, so this blows any loose pollen to the females behind it.
When the male starts looking very sad, it's done all it can and I'll remove it and throw it away.
The females usualy hold on much longer. But I keep them going untill they too start to look realy sad (at least 6 to 8 weeks after the first pollen has been released).
Harvest the females and leave them hanging on a string for 1,5 to 2 weeks. And then, I'll usualy take at least one evening to sort out a shitload of seeds.
It's a little low budget and not a very refined methode but so far, this works like a charm for me.
 

jump117

Well-known member
Veteran
the lights to go 12/12
spray 1 plant once a day, every day.
untill I see male flowers forming
Hey OmeJozzie!
Was it all she-male flowers or was it both male and female on the sprayed plant?
I’ve observed the new flowers return to female after stop spraying.
 

lucky_luke

New member
I'm not sure if I understood correctly methods from last posts above. What do You guys think about idea of starting CS spraying just after first signs of plant's sex and continuing it while first 2 weeks of flowering? Did anyone tried it? Is there any chance that declared female will still produce some male sacks with usable polen after starting spraying with CS in early flowering phase?

I wanted to create feminized seeds from AF strain, and this way (with selfing) would sound far easier than 'normal way'...
 
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