Old Uncle Ben
Well-known member
"You'll notice in this story that flowering has not come up once. If you read a good plant physiology text you'll find the same. That's because potassium has no direct role in promoting flowering in most plants."
www.adonline.id.au
And while I'm at it, my ditty on phosphorous abuse, if you haven't already seen it.
The never ending abuse of Phosphorous to enhance flowering
A common mistake for growers when they reach the flowering stage is to start hitting the plants with a high P fert like a 10‑50‑10, continuing to use this blend exclusively, and when their plants start experiencing a deficit of N, Ca, Mg or micros as reflected by the dropping of lower leaves and chlorosis, they wonder why. Plants flower as a response to long nights (or chronological age if equatorial), not because of food blends high in P (or K). A ratio of 10‑30‑10 is WAY too high in P. The plant will only take what it needs and compete for other elements that may be more important at the time.
You may have heard that too much N can inhibit flowering. No question about it, exclusive use of a plant food that is rich in N such as blood meal, a 5‑1‑1 blend, or ammonium nitrate/sulfate may inhibit flowering especially if the phosphorous level is low, but most balanced blends have sufficient amount of P to do the job. The question is ‑ "how much P is enough to support a good flowering response and still retain my leaves?"
Manufacturers/horticulturists will give you element analysis and what effect the elements have on plant growth, but remember this does not necessarily mean you will get better yields. Using a high P fert exclusively during flowering can actually work against you due to impending leaf drop. It's an abundant amount of healthy leaves going into 12/12 and maintaining their health until harvest that produces a lot of bud, not high P, or low N foods.
I rotate fertilizer blends as the plant *requires* them, not because it is "the thing to do." For example, when your plants are going thru the stretch phase during early flowering, they may need more N, especially if you're getting some yellowing in the lower leaves. Give up the cannabis paradigms and give them what they need. You may want to return to a mild high P fert when the stretch ends, maintaining the foliage in a healthy state of growth until harvest for maximum yields. A 1‑3‑2 blend such as Peter's Pro Blossom Booster, 10‑30‑20, is a good choice because of several factors ‑ it is higher in nitrate N and Mg and has a good micro package. It is sold under the Jack's Classic label.
There are many foods I stock in my toolbox. Dyna-Gro is another excellent brand. I use a lot of their Foliage Pro - 9-3-6.
Stay away from cannabis specific foods. They market unsuspecting newbies who don’t yet have a handle on plant nutrition and soil chemistry.
Uncle Ben
Potassium and Flowering | The Story of Flowers | Adam Dimech
In most plants potassium does not directly stimulate or 'promote' flowers to form on plants.
www.adonline.id.au
And while I'm at it, my ditty on phosphorous abuse, if you haven't already seen it.
The never ending abuse of Phosphorous to enhance flowering
A common mistake for growers when they reach the flowering stage is to start hitting the plants with a high P fert like a 10‑50‑10, continuing to use this blend exclusively, and when their plants start experiencing a deficit of N, Ca, Mg or micros as reflected by the dropping of lower leaves and chlorosis, they wonder why. Plants flower as a response to long nights (or chronological age if equatorial), not because of food blends high in P (or K). A ratio of 10‑30‑10 is WAY too high in P. The plant will only take what it needs and compete for other elements that may be more important at the time.
You may have heard that too much N can inhibit flowering. No question about it, exclusive use of a plant food that is rich in N such as blood meal, a 5‑1‑1 blend, or ammonium nitrate/sulfate may inhibit flowering especially if the phosphorous level is low, but most balanced blends have sufficient amount of P to do the job. The question is ‑ "how much P is enough to support a good flowering response and still retain my leaves?"
Manufacturers/horticulturists will give you element analysis and what effect the elements have on plant growth, but remember this does not necessarily mean you will get better yields. Using a high P fert exclusively during flowering can actually work against you due to impending leaf drop. It's an abundant amount of healthy leaves going into 12/12 and maintaining their health until harvest that produces a lot of bud, not high P, or low N foods.
I rotate fertilizer blends as the plant *requires* them, not because it is "the thing to do." For example, when your plants are going thru the stretch phase during early flowering, they may need more N, especially if you're getting some yellowing in the lower leaves. Give up the cannabis paradigms and give them what they need. You may want to return to a mild high P fert when the stretch ends, maintaining the foliage in a healthy state of growth until harvest for maximum yields. A 1‑3‑2 blend such as Peter's Pro Blossom Booster, 10‑30‑20, is a good choice because of several factors ‑ it is higher in nitrate N and Mg and has a good micro package. It is sold under the Jack's Classic label.
There are many foods I stock in my toolbox. Dyna-Gro is another excellent brand. I use a lot of their Foliage Pro - 9-3-6.
Stay away from cannabis specific foods. They market unsuspecting newbies who don’t yet have a handle on plant nutrition and soil chemistry.
Uncle Ben
