What's new

What do you think

Redblueblur993

Active member
These are looking nice they've been under 200 w spider farm LED they may be a week old slight yellowing on the Apollo XX I'm thinking that could be due to pH what should I have that at.
IMG20231125112232.jpg

IMG20231125112214.jpg

IMG20231125112208.jpg
 

Redblueblur993

Active member
IMG20231204111419.jpg
IMG20231204110423.jpg
IMG20231204110417.jpg
IMG20231204110412.jpg

I haven't been around in a week to take care of them and are looking a little bad most of the main stems are really dark purple and they're leaves are yellowish I've been giving a pH water before between 6.2 and 6.5 should I start feeding them nutrients and transplant them to something bigger
IMG20231204110113.jpg
 

Ultramarin

Active member
you seem to be doing several things wrong in cloning. first, I would significantly reduce the leaf surface during cutting. also, I wouldn't use enzymes; it doesn't make sense on a fresh neutral medium. you should not use tap water to moisten the blocks; instead, use rain or ro-water, ph-regulated to 5.8 and very gently fertilized, with a maximum of 300 ppm. the blocks should not be too moist at the beginning; softly squeeze out rock wool after soaking. spray the cuttings lightly with the nutrient solution after insertion, then place them in the closed incubator. leave them completely undisturbed for a week; after that, open the flaps on the lid slowly. they should be ready within a maximum of 14 days. your propagator seem also too warm; the easiest method to create a uniform, precise temperature is using an aquarium heater in a water bath of around 25°C on which the propagator sits.
what about your mother plants? they should, of course, be in very good condition before you use them. do you have any pictures? i ask you because your plants are - from the beginning - not in a good shape at all...
 
Last edited:

Redblueblur993

Active member
you seem to be doing several things wrong in cloning. first, I would significantly reduce the leaf surface during cutting. also, I wouldn't use enzymes; it doesn't make sense on a fresh neutral medium. you should not use tap water to moisten the blocks; instead, use rain or ro-water, ph-regulated to 5.8 and very gently fertilized, with a maximum of 300 ppm. the blocks should not be too moist at the beginning; softly squeeze out rock wool after soaking. spray the cuttings lightly with the nutrient solution after insertion, then place them in the closed incubator. leave them completely undisturbed for a week; after that, open the flaps on the lid slowly. they should be ready within a maximum of 14 days. your propagator seem also too warm; the easiest method to create a uniform, precise temperature is using an aquarium heater in a water bath of around 25°C on which the propagator sits.
what about your mother plants? they should, of course, be in very good condition before you use them. do you have any pictures? i ask you because your plants are - from the beginning - not in a good shape at all...
Thank you for the very detailed information. You are absolutely right then I'm doing several things wrong for the clones and that's why I've made this post to get help. Everything that you said I understand it will do that for the next round. I do have a post where I'm keeping a journal of everything right now in my flower room.
 

Ultramarin

Active member
Thank you for the very detailed information. You are absolutely right then I'm doing several things wrong for the clones and that's why I've made this post to get help. Everything that you said I understand it will do that for the next round. I do have a post where I'm keeping a journal of everything right now in my flower room.
in my case, that works with almost 100% success. if your motherplants are healthy, it shut work in your case too. ;)
 

Redblueblur993

Active member
Thank you for the very detailed information. You are absolutely right then I'm doing several things wrong for the clones and that's why I've made this post to get help. Everything that you said I understand it will do that for the next round. I do have a post where I'm keeping a journal of everything right now in my flower room.
When I took the clones off the mothers the mothers were very healthy and green and the clones were green but on the Apollo XX it just seemed like the stem was a little bit weaker then the strong stems of the sour Bluetooth. I am noticing that the Apollo XX seems a little bit more sensitive than the sour Bluetooth I don't know if it's because of nutrients or genetics or I'm doing something wrong but they were very healthy looking.
 

Redblueblur993

Active member
IMG20231208110807.jpg

I sniffed off the bad leaves a few days ago been spraying it with a foilar-layer spray they're starting to get their green bag but the stem is a really dark purple
IMG20231208110745.jpg
 

chronosync

Well-stoned member
Too much light. Under 200w you are forcing them to photosynthesis at high demand. Roots aren’t developed enough to meet the photon load.

I clone under low wattage and give them plenty of time to adjust to increasing light levels. I do it slowly and dont push them.

Best of luck
 

Redblueblur993

Active member
Too much light. Under 200w you are forcing them to photosynthesis at high demand. Roots aren’t developed enough to meet the photon load.

I clone under low wattage and give them plenty of time to adjust to increasing light levels. I do it slowly and dont push them.

Best of luck
Ok cool thanks
 

chronosync

Well-stoned member
You're right I do feel like I'm forcing it
I still have to try not to rush as well. Used to always wonder why I didn't get roots in 5 days like some folks and just decided that for me, it takes two weeks to root and two weeks to acclimate. Sometimes they go quicker but with those estimated times I can just chill and focus on keeping them in a proper and consistent environment, let them do their thing.
 

Redblueblur993

Active member
I still have to try not to rush as well. Used to always wonder why I didn't get roots in 5 days like some folks and just decided that for me, it takes two weeks to root and two weeks to acclimate. Sometimes they go quicker but with those estimated times I can just chill and focus on keeping them in a proper and consistent environment, let them do their thing.
I was able to root a couple clones a few years ago in 5 days using tap root gel great white microzyme in Rockwall
 

foomar

Luddite
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Useing a small simple bubble cloner does make it a lot easier to measure and maintain rooting zone temperature and pH.
And you can see what s going on and are removeing some variables.

Plastic food storage container , cheapest smallest aquarium airpump and stone , heating mat.
Accurate thermometer as the probes on the variable heating mats are hopeless.

And start with the healthiest cuttings you can manage.
 

Redblueblur993

Active member
could it be that you are compressing the soil in the pot too strong?
True didn't think about that. They're small little cup so probably retains the water longer. Maybe I did some compression in the beginning. I started writing everything down in the journal to help me keep track of my work I wasn't doing that before and I just started maybe a few weeks ago less than a month
 

Ultramarin

Active member
True didn't think about that. They're small little cup so probably retains the water longer. Maybe I did some compression in the beginning. I started writing everything down in the journal to help me keep track of my work I wasn't doing that before and I just started maybe a few weeks ago less than a month
the soil should be as loose as possible. in the beginning, small plants don't need much water anyway. typically, i water my cuttings once and then wait for a week, almost until the soil is completely dry, before watering again. your plants look drowned, which could be due to soil that is too compact or, alternatively, too much water. in your case, i even suspect a combination of both...
 

Redblueblur993

Active member
the soil should be as loose as possible. in the beginning, small plants don't need much water anyway. typically, i water my cuttings once and then wait for a week, almost until the soil is completely dry, before watering again. your plants look drowned, which could be due to soil that is too compact or, alternatively, too much water. in your case, i even suspect a combination of both...
It does seem like it dries pretty quick but maybe that's just the top of the soil and not the inside. And they do look like they've been drowned. I think I compacted it in the beginning and as I watered it it just made it more tight.
 

Latest posts

Latest posts

Top